Tom Strong demonstrates various pressure flaking techniques to create perfect flaking patterns with a nice domed shape. With grinding or not a nice domed arrow-head with a good flake scar pattern can be achieved from a slabbed preform.
I just put up a video on using diamond tools in flint knapping. You are the first person I've seen grind off the high edge. If you use a diamond bit to put a concave surface on the edge it gives you a center line and platform on both edges. I see you start wit short flakes first. it looks like that works better.
Will Bruner the techniques were developed by a group of knappers in Idaho. Most are actually Vietnam era veterans, Tom is just one of best of many. If you don't have a water fed grinder the other tricks help.
Very interesting. Will these techniques also work on square slabs? I have difficulty running flakes far enough to clear the tool marks off in the middle. I assume that I should probably be getting them on the second or third pass?
Hi, I'm just a bit confused to as to what the difference is between Pressure Flaking and Flint Knapping? I would be very grateful if you wouldn't mind answering this question. Thank you!
TOM NICE WORK , IT IS GOOD TO SEE SOME ONE WORKING WITH DIFFERENT WORKING METHODS, HOW ABOUT SOMETHING ON ThE DIFFERENCES IN FLAKES SCARING RIBBON , OBLIQUE, EXCT. thanks Rob
Rob Smith Tom was nice enough many years ago to demo different knapping techniques. This was in Eastern Idaho, unfortunately I have since moved to Colorado and speak rarely with Tom. So your inquiry will for now go unanswered.
I cannot speak for Tom, but there could be several reasons for flakes not traveling far. Think of it in terms of adding pressure on your preform with your pressure flaker just before tipping the preform down and a flake release. If your preform platform is ground with a bad angle, your copper is too hard (slipping), or supporting weakly the preform may prevent enough pressure build up before flake removal.
If everything otherwise addressed is good and you are still getting short flakes, the most likely causes are bad angle and lack of in pressure. The flatter you hold the rock, the shorter the flakes. To successfully pop a flake off, most of your pressure needs to be pressing inwards and then just shift the tool to start the fracture. Remember to keep pushing in as the flake starts otherwise it will stop short.
I am just drawing a blank trying to google search for one and such. I have a glass grinder from hobby lobby but would like to find something a little better and more efficient. This little thing is made for stained glass and cant handle the load to be honest.
I don't know the brand of the grinder, but it was a dual 8" wheel with a 1/2 or 1/3 hp motor mounted overhead to the shroud. Ran 100 and 80 grit flat faced diamond wheels.
I AM AN OLD IDAHO BOY (75) WHO FLINTKNAPPS AND ALWAYS TRYING TO PICK UP MORE , DO YOU HAVE AN E-MAIL ADDRESS FOR TOM OR ASNAIL MAIL ONE? OR IS HE FLINT KNAPPING WITH THE OLD BOYS? Rob Thanks
Hehe there’s no such thing as cheating in flint knapping. Unless you’re using methods like this and claiming you went all abo. They are humans, making blades with the tools available to them, just like everyone else who has ever knapped. If I was interested in pretty flake patterns I’d use whatever worked best. I don’t even really like the idea of slabs but you can’t deny the efficiency. I’ve got a quartz slab right now which is why I find myself here. But it’s still not ‘cheating’ it just won’t feel nearly as satisfying as it would to start from a spall
