You just saved my ass man, in the middle of replacing my floor on my 16ft Starcraft and I was planning on using pressure treated till I saw this, thank you very much for the information!
I have a 1948 aluminum larson its a family airloom and it means the world to me. i was just in the prosses of gathering ideas for the latest rest-o on her (the last one done in 1996) when I ran into your video. thanks so much man I had no idea. you quiet possibly saved my boat with your video thanks man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank You for the heads up! I am 80 years old and just bought my very first small (used) aluminum boat that I want to modify to meet my needs. You saved me from doing what would be considered the obvious thing to do! Thank YOU again!
Thanks, I'm about to put a floor in my small boat. I'd heard this before but it was just passing comments on other videos. Your direct approach gets my attention.
Thanks for the update. I'm making a pontoon fishing boat out of a small pontoon paddle boat. I was going to use pressure treated, thanks for saving me.
Did an AI Chat Search on this. Here is what it says. "When copper and aluminum are in contact with each other in the presence of an electrolyte containing ions, such as saltwater, an electrical potential difference is created between them. This can cause the aluminum to corrode and form holes." Thanks for the Video. Starting to replace the bow on a Aluminum deck boat and was checking youtube about this. Saved my Ass. Thank you Sir.
Thanks for posting this video I was going to start working on my boat this summer and I was going to go out and get green treated wood to put in the boat but not after I seen this video I'll get the regular stuff and coat it with shellac or something to seal it up really good anyhow thanks for the video.
Listen!He's telling the truth! DO NOT USE TREATED WOOD!! Copper and aluminium don't mix. Just like you can't Mix certain chemicals.This rule also applys for metals.He doing all aluminium boat owners a great service.
Good information to know, I knew treated wood was bad, but not why. I'm replacing a transom on a vintage Alumacraft boat with Red Oak. It originally had a White Oak & Plywood sandwiched transom. It will be sealed with CPES by Rot Doctor for wood in boats and then coated in Epifanes High Tung Oil varnish used for wood boat building. I will seal around all bolt holes with marine grade sealant to prevent water seeping. I will document the process, posting to Instagram, and post to RU-vid at a later date. Thanks for sharing
I was going to buy a 2x6 pressure treated board to fix my transom tomorrow...... not now! Thanks so much for saving my next to new prince craft 12' I had no idea pressure treated wood was so toxic to aluminum!
He is correct it's called dissimilar metal corrosion caused by the cooper and aluminum touching. Thanks for the heads up on the use of cooper in pressure treating i was going to use it in my boat.
Good advice and you're EXACTLY right about it. Once they changed the formula for treating wood, they caused boat owners and home owners a whole new problem.
I have a small group of cottages that had rotten boards around windows replaced and reflate day with aluminum flashing within 3 years all the flashing was eaten by the pressure treated wood, you are spot on, correct, never use PT wood with aluminum.
Thanks for this video. Now I have to replace my transom because I used PT wood. I fish in salt water so I also use stainless steel bolts and screws everywhere. Less electrolysis and oxidation.
No you're right John I've been around the water building dock seawalls and installing boat lifts for 30 years. The minute aluminum touches pressure treated or marine grade pressure treated lumber it immediately starts oxidizing I have seen pontoon boats have holes eaten right through the pontoon within 6 months. So I know you're right anybody else that questions it better call somebody who knows
Thanks for the video. I have to replace 4 bunks on my pontoon trailer, all aluminum. Everybody keeps telling me I HAVE to use pressure treated, even though it’s not alot of 18ft pressure treated wood in the area. This is the only place I’ve seen saying that regular 2x4 won’t ruin the boat.
I used regular plywood this past summer and treated it. I used some old green treatment I had that dates to the 80's, the stuff sold for where you made a cut on Wolmanized wood. I'm thinking that this stuff also is going to corrode the aluminum and I need to take out my new transom asap, and try again. I didn't know about this stuff. Thanks for this video.
Ha! Just made a deck and console for my aluminum...my buddy gave me shit for being cheap and getting non-treated wood, and yes, price was my determining factor, saved 25$... and apparently saved my boat too! Drenched the plywood and 2x2 and 2x12(transom) in BINS primer shellac, topped with heavy heavy coat of rustoleum enamel... Carpet today :)
Thanks for the vid. You confirmed what I suspected. Dangar Marine talked about similar issues with antifoul paint and copper being environmental prob. That made me look at PT wood treatment on a whim. Yep copper... So, Copper in an aluminum boat... Not good. Thanks again! Now I can put that non treated floor in my 16ft knowing I made the right choice.
Well I just cut to fit a piece of pressure treated plywood, wish I would have seen this before I did that!!! Is there anything I can put on it to seal it to make it safe? I planned on covering it with fiberglass resin will it still bleed through that?
Nice vid JDS. I went with Marine Grade plywood and did the research from APA Plywood Design Specifications. Cost me a ton more for the sheet, but It stated it was meant for boat hulls. I was still not 100% sold so I fiberglass resin coated every nook and cranny. No water is getting through now
JDS Outdoors yeah I wanted to do all aluminum at first but I just do not have the skill, money or tools to weld and I wasn’t interested in drilling holes in my boat. So the $80 plywood, $80 fiberglass resin, and $35 carpet I think will be well worth it and easier on my wallet for sure. Thanks again for sharing 👍🏼
I install boat lifts all over the state of Florida I have people calling me all the time wanting to change out their v-hull cradle with a flat cradle for their pontoon boats. I have known for years that the minute you put a pontoon boat or aluminum against pressure treated lumber it immediately starts oxidizing. If you have ever seen a boat lift that goes on top of piling you will always see a professional put down either pile wrap or some type of heavy duty shield between your aluminum boat lift and the top of your 2.5 marine grade treated pile. So to you people out there that want to change your v-hull lift or cradle over to a pontoon cradle just by straps just by the large nylon straps that wrap around the bottom of the boat and you will be fine. the problem with me is I have somebody that has a shoreline boat lift I cannot put straps on so I have to change out the v hull bunks and put on wood wrapped in pile wrap to keep them from touching each other
I am a 60 yr old woman replacing a floor on my 1987 Lund Tyee 4.9 16ft . Spongy floor in middle. I bought regular plywood and thought I would put a coating of flexseal all over the wood before replacing it? Would this be a bad idea? I would seal the screwholes as well?
More people need to know that green treating uses copper napthalate to treat the lumber. The solvent gasses off, leaving the copper to protect the wood (that's why it's green). If you've done any roofing before, you know to not mix metals because they'll react in water. Whatchu think gonna happen on a boat? Lol.
Great video. I have a 30' aluminum skin travel trailer that i had to repair some wood rot, thankfully i use plain wood for the repair. I was complaining to my wife about the company using plain wood, now i know why, thanks for the video.
I usually pull all the wood out of my small boats to replace it with a lightweight aluminum structure it's actually better and stronger. In addition I treat all my bare aluminum with aluma prep, alodine and then zinc phosphate green primer on internal bare sufaces and or replaced parts. I even treat the rivets and put zinc phosphate on them before they go in the hole while their wet.
Electrolysis is bad for aluminum also.when I put a thru hole stainless steel for bait well use rubber gaskets,or dissimilar corrosion begins.same with those carriage bolts they also react especially with salt water.thats why builders put alum drains ,.thanks for this info.
Just made new bunks for my LUND used presure treated.. Now you have me rethinking. But the trailer which I bought new looked like had pressure treated bunks ..The utube vids I watched they all used pressure treated and recommended it...But now I wondering??
We are talking about Electrolysis... between different metals.. In this case Copper and Aluminum. The safe thing to do is use the best plywood you can find. At a minimum use the "Marine" plywood made from douglas fir in Roseburg Oregon. Then make up your own penetrating epoxy.. with a cheap liquid epoxy diluted with Acetone. put on a good coat of that..and let it soak in and set up. Then coat with more epoxy or epoxy paint. This will last a long time, and it can be placed directly against aluminum.. as in a transom, or floors, or panels.. with no harm. There is also some kind of composite deck/floor material made for those pontoon boats.. which presumably isn't copper treated..
Hey John, great video on your fifth wheel connection, sorry to see that you had silent the idiot comments. My only question is about the brand and style, amazing that it uses just a ball to fasten to bed of truck. Also what is your pin weight on your fifth wheel trailer, not bad just 1 1/2 " drop. thanks hope to hear back from you soon.
Thank you I have a pin weight of 1450 loaded and the Anderson hitch is awesome. I have since sold that hitch (unfortunately) due to the fact I want to tow doubles and its not legal to do so with that style hitch. I have a bigger truck now to accommodate towing doubles safely
the treated plywood labeled 'el2'.. ecolife2. is non metallic an yes on there website it does say safe for aluminum because its non metallic sooo what to believe then
just curious have you checked out there site eco life because by the looks of it there company is entirely dedicated to specifically eco friendly non metallic stabilized weather resistant wood.. products are ever changing just like in my line of business paint
What bolts can I use on my aluminum Jon boat transom ? I replaced the transom with regular 3/4 plywood doubled up and coated it with 2 part fiberglass resin. The bolts that were in it were aluminum bolts and nuts. But there was corrosion like this from oem wood. Can I use stainless steel or galvanized? I don’t want it to corrode any more than it has and I’ve heard of galvanic corrosion. Please let me know, thank you buddy!!!
Thank you for your reply. I have a new sheet of aluminum to do just that very thing. How about the holes in the hill? What is the best way to fix them?
Good one..... I got my first boat this year. It's a 73 Richline GF16. Someone replaced the transom ??? Long ago with that crap. Didn't even do it right like yours there. Anyway yeah sure enough white corrosion all over the dang thing. All the bolt holes are a little bigger now. I'll be putting bigger bolts. Besides sanding is there anything else to get that corrosion off the aluminum. And also have you ever had any problems with stainless steel bolts. I really don't want to put weak aluminum bolts back in it but Know I can't use any plated bolts. I see alot of yes and no when it comes to useing stainless steel bolts ?
Green treated lumber/wood is green hence the name. Real easy to tell between pressure treated and green treated. Also aluminum and steel dont mix if they are in contact with each other they will both corrode.
I'm building a cab on my aluminum flat bottom boat. Glad I watched this. What can I protect the wood with. ? Just paint it with an oil base? Or tomsons water seal? 20 foot boat 5 foot wide. All 3/16th thick
hey thanks for the heads up! I recently acquired a 1980 Duranautic 14' skiff/deep-v and the PO had replaced the transom board with pressure treated stuff. I pulled it all out today and I think I got to it in time. There's some light pitting but no holes. I'm totally stripping the boat to bare aluminum before tighting rivets, repainting and decking it. Is there anything more I need to do to stop the further spread of reaction of the affected sections (other than removing the pressure treated stuff)? I'm hesitant to prime those areas because I don't want to trap a chem reaction under the primer, paint and gel coats and have an even bigger problem a few years down the road. Any help/advice would be much appreciated.
@@JDSOutdoors say , so its OK - to use plywood & place some wood treatment on it ? If yes what would be the best treatment ? I am looking to replace some wood before its time to drop a line 🎣 🚤 👈 thank you , in advance. Great video & information 👍 👌 ✌
Last week i picked up some 15/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. BC Sanded Pine Plywood and it has group 1 exterior thickness 0.453 in psi 09 underlayment on it am i good to use for my boat ? or should i take it back ?
Clean it well with a stainless brush and some solvent like acetone to stop the corrosion. You can fill it if you want to but if it's not all the way through I wouldn't worry about it. If it's all the way welding is the best but I've seen people use jb weld or Similar with decent results but it's up to you
I've done multiple things. Small areas I've patched with and aluminum patch, rivets, and 5200. Filled with jb weld and sanded smooth and welded and grind. Large surface areas like transoms I've cut the entire thing off and replaced with new
I am taking pressure treated out of a boat I am doing. It has several small rusty pitted areas. How do I stop or repair before I put the new marine grade plywood down.
I have. It says right on their label. And I quote "less corrosive" which means it's still corrosive. So like it says in the vid about Lowe's wood. Believe the marketing if you want it's your boat
You can imagine the relief after I floored my entire boat and found that treated wood is bad to aluminium, luckily I didn’t think of using treated wood in the first place
I'm waiting to see how the outcome is for one boat build that was done with the Ecolife turns out that was done 2 years ago, hopefully not what happen to your boat, I'm hoping it works, I'm fixing to redo my plywood deck that I did over 20 years ago just exterior plywood, not pressure treated , not the green stuff
Ive had treated wood on my boat for 10yrs (transom,cast deck, and rod lockers) i recently changed it all out with regular ply i had no damage on my boat maybe im just lucky
Good advice. Seen it too. Another thing I never do for aluminum boats is put carpet on the bunks. It’s pointless. I simply put new boards down, lightly burn them with a torch which helps seal them and protect from bugs, and let it fly. Barr boards don’t scratch aluminum. Carpet will hold sand and grit and actually will. Plus no carpet to hold moisture and rot. I have a 22ft pontoon boat and a 1860 tracker grizzly and both have bare trailer boards with no issues.
Shit man.... I have to redo my transom again.... damn that wood treated cost over $40 in Home Depot.... $$ is not an issues... thing is I have to remove everything.... damn it....
This is bad news for me I just installed a new floor on my 14 ft starcraft I used 1/2 inch pt plywood from home depot Was wondering if I can use 6 months without any damage?
