Prime a grease gun the RIGHT way! - Lincoln Industrial  

THANK YOU. I’m going to try this! I’m having such a hard time with mine. 😣

@@Pawknee123In the end I found that although this could temporarily solve the problem the only permanent solution was to buy a new grease gun. The seals have a limited lifetime and on most models are not replaceable.

It's normally because pneumatic and battery operated units are cycling so fast, they simply cavitate if the air pocket is a significant size. The goal is to remove as much air as possible between the lubricant in the cartridge and the piston before cycling the unit so it does not become airbound/airlocked. Packing the head with lubricant and bleeding the trapped air through the tube assembly threads before hand usually solves this problem. ~John.

If you watch at 1:40, the insert on the bottom left shows how the rod locks into the plunger so the user can press on the grease to assist in forcing air from between the grease and the head of the grease gun. Simply twisting the rod with a small amount of pressure will disengage the rod and allow it to store in the tube assembly. ~ John

Great Idea! Thank you for the input. I will add this to our topic list. ~John

@@lincolnindustrial Can you please tell me here in the comments how to store it? I just bought one and used it. No where in the instructions does it tell you how to store it. Thanks!

Best practice is to store unit in a cool dry place while not in use. Gun can be stored with grease cartridge installed if it will be used frequently, however if there is significant time between uses(couple months or more), remove the grease cartridge, cap both ends of said cartridge and store with the gun in a cool dry place until next use. ~John

@@lincolnindustrial THANKS!

The included air nipple is the Lincoln style air nipple which works with our Model 815 coupler. However, you may use any air nipple/ coupler setup available that fits the 1/4"npt(f) air inlet port. ~ John

The follower in our current grease guns was designed for universal use between cartridge filling and bulk filling without the need to Flip the lips forward like our previous design. It has tighter tolerances so it may need a little help in the beginning until the rubber is broken in a bit especially when using grease cartridges. I would suggest locking the follower rod into the follower assembly and applying pressure until you can not push the assembly any further down the tube. take special care with cardboard cartridges as too much pressure may crush the end of the cartridge and keep the follower from entering the cartridge. ~John

For priming the unit, set air pressure to between 30-40 psi. For normal operation, anywhere between 80-90 psi is the recommendation. ~John

SKF acquired Lincoln Industrial in October 2010.

I am sorry to hear you are having issues with grease guns. In our experience with units returned to us for evaluation, loss of prime is mostly caused by debris entering the head or a loose tube assembly allowing air to be drawn through the threads. We suggest cleaning the head of any material that could be causing the checks to stay open. There is a video outlining the process on our channel. In many cases when priming takes a while, the issue is usually a large air pocket in between the grease in the cartridge and the piston in the head. this air pocket needs to be eliminated for the gun to be primed effectively. ~ John

Yes, it’s an air pocket. I usually have to actually unscrew both vent caps fully. I don’t know why this is? It just is. I had this problem with my last grease gun as well. Hence why everytime it failed to push grease I would have to keep trying to prime? Priming often took more time to happen than the total time it took to grease the front end on my truck. After twenty years I had enough of it & crushed it at work. I had a similar problem with a pair of blue tooth speakers. I bought them as a pair. Except they never paired? I downloaded their app & tried & tried & tried. I watched RU-vid videos on pairing? Nothing worked. I contacted the manufacturer several times as they were still under warranty. Nothing worked! I brought them to work & squashed them with my work truck.

Hi John, Please contact our technical service department for assistance either at 1-844-772-1341 or by email at Lincoln.Tech.Service@SKF.com

will do

yes, soon... I have a video to cover the common fill methods on my list to shoot in the very near future. The quick explanation uses a manual bulk fill pump such as our 500L or 1296. Most of our grease guns are supplied with the bulk fill nipple already attached, if it doesn't the p/n 91108 is attached to the head. It's a simple matter of connecting the bulk filler socket to the grease gun nipple and cycling the bulk pump handle until the notch in the follower rod reaches the notch in the end cap of the grease gun tube assembly. Unlock the follower rod from the follower and you are ready to use. ~ John

Here you go! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1VcAaJfGpac.html

most of our newer model grease guns have a thermal protection in them that will shut the gun off if too high of an amp draw is detected. This protects the motor from burning up. In some guns a flashing red screen may also indicate loss of prime and will shut the gun down if attempting to dispense continues too long while airbound. Usually occurs at very high pressure, such as a blockage, or resistance in the lubrication point. We normally suggest cleaning passages in the head of the gun and flushing the whip hose to see if this will help. ~ John

Hi Mike, These guns, couplers and fittings have been around for many years. Have been tested and found to be very sound popular designs. However, to comment on a few of your points, The video should answer the first one, gun was not fully primed. In addition, the environment you are working in as well as the lubricant dispensed will effect performance of the gun itself. Cold weather causes lubricant to thicken and flow much more slowly. The lubricant, if it's thick, or very tacky will require slower dispensing rate or at least a bit more time to allow for a full prime. To the second point of oozing grease: Lubricant bypass between the coupler and fitting attachment points occur due to two main reasons: Fitting/coupler damage or contamination. We usually point to the contamination first. If any debris(dirt, fibers, dried grease, etc) gets in between the mating surfaces of the coupler and fitting, there will not be a full seal which will leak. If the fitting head is damaged such as scrapes, or corrosion, the two sealing surfaces will not fully meet causing leakage. Our suggestions when we received these inquiries is always to attempt to fully clean the fitting head and coupler of any contamination first, If that does not work, replace the fitting. Lastly, the coupler has a complete seal up to 15° angle on the fitting, any further, the coupler may disengage or leak.I hope this helps with a better understanding of these units. If you have any further questions feel free to contact our technical department for assistance.

@@lincolnindustrial Please excuse us. Mike escaped from his Looney room somehow and got onto the computer. We won't let it happen again.

Blead the air out

@@lincolnindustrial Translation from corporate PR to English: One or twice per lifetime all the necessary stars just might happen to align such that the damn thing will work as intended and promised. The rest of the time, forget it!

@@muddjim55 That's what they all say, so don't you think I've tried that every imaginable way? It does no good! I've got a better idea: Throw the damn useless thing away! It will grease your machines just as well from the landfill as it does in your hands.