Printing an AMS Riser in PETG 

You should calibrate every time you change nozzles and filament. I wash my bed plate with DAWN dish soap to clean the plate and remove oil from your hands. I use Amazon glue stick on the plate (it washes off nice and easy with the soap).

Hi! Complete beginner here, but i've had good success with the Bambu Engineering Plate on PETG, no glue, just wash it with dish soap every now and again and wipe down with 99% IPA between every print. From what i've gathered, with the HS nozzle you'll want about 10°C higher temp because of the poorer thermal conductivity, so after about 2 days worth of testing, calibrating and fiddling with the settings, i ended up 270°C on the first layer, 260°C on the rest, and 80°C bed temperature, and haven't had an issue since. So far ran a bit over a roll of Aceaddity PETG with those settings. Also i found that calibrating the Pressure Advance, as well as Retraction Length got rid of all the random blobs and stringing i was getting. I'm probably doing it all wrong, but it works for me, and results in beautiful print quality on my X1C, so i thought i'd share. 😁 Oh, i also printed the AMS riser "Light flood for closed Bambu lab closed printers" by Jorge Rui over at Makerworld, as it has toggleable vents as well as a place for an LED strip (for me the live view camera was almost useless with the stock light using darker filaments, but now i can actually see what's going on), and i print PETG with them open, but door closed, and that keeps the chamber temp at a steady 40°C, which i feel is also helping with layer adhesion without being too hot to cause problems with the feeding.

If you have the gold PEI plate use it, I've had great success with it and PETG with no glue of any kind. Also run the bed at 100 and preheat till chamber is around 30c. That helped me alot when printing the nut crackers.