You're clearly insane, you know that? Thank you for also showing us your thought process. It is so important for 3D-design beginners like me to see this.
Welcome! I bet that will make for a VERY colorful set of parts! The connectors should work fairly well with any scrap filaments you have. For the pipes, I would recommend setting aside some PETG, so they'll be nice and reliable.
Another great print from 3D Printy. Thanks for sharing. I have printed many of your designs and love every single one. Your video instructions are the "icing on the cake", so to speak.
I'd love to 'say hi' at that convention! Unfortunately I don't see me making the trip from FL but I have some time to figure things out. PS, I always imagined you looking like George Costanza from Seinfeld but in the episode(s) where he has hair/or younger, flash-backed to high school but I mean that in the nicest way:) I can't talk cuz I look like the Jack Link's Sasquatch lol
I've been meaning to pick up some PLA glue specifically to start playing with these for a while now. I'm so excited that now I can just print them and start playing right away ^^
Unfortunately, I was too slow. I COULD have posted the files before the contest closed, but I set things back a bit with some revisions that I felt were key to making it a better building toy. Maybe next time :)
these are awesome. i had made some from before, but one question can you make a bow tie for the flex hinges. The other two are to long. tried both of them. I went ahead and cut one to a smaller piece, but though i would ask. and the loose bow tie are not that loose, might be my printer lol. thanks again for these prints.
It reminds me my olds games, but I have no kids around. But it makes me think of a solution to make shelter with PVC tubes in a geodesic dome shape. Do you think of making the pentagonic and hexagonic connectors?
The old version has both of those! I plan to revisit them, however they may not split quite as cleanly. If you don't mind the glue requirements of the old version, they ARE compatible with the new pipes.
Check out my Print-in-Place Puzzles here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FJXxZtWEMqw.html I also updated my Treasure Chest puzzle to require only a little glue: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NKAZP7kLETk.html Happy printing!
I'm not sure I understand the question. Some of the connectors shown do use the same parts to create various port counts. For example, the yellow 3-way "T" connector uses the same bottom part and the green 4-way connector. The number of ports is determined by which top piece to pair it with.
the dovetail could be improved in 4 ways: 1 the angles are too aggressive. the ideal angle should be given by the directional elastic modulus parallel to the dovetail reinforcement direction, but nobody has time for that. the angle itself should be lower than wood dovetails with PLA, as it more rigid than most woods. 2 the dovetail end at a point. it should be rounded (more like two lobes ending in points), that way the hanging roof would be smaller, leading to more consistent prints across quality printers 3 the direction of printing of the dovetail is wrong. the dovetail geometry should be printed a a continuous face and not being constructed through layer depositions. It makes it really fragile and prone to failure. 4 if you fix 3, you could get away with half or less of the dovetail spine, reducing the size of the locking mechanism, but mantaining about the same terminal strength. if you correct those problems, the success of the printing and assembly would greatly increase in random sub optimal setups and skills.
Great feedback! Since forces applied to a pipe don't translate to pulling connector halves apart, the pins aren't structurally critical. They aren't even necessary in most connectors, as demonstrated in the video. I actually switched from printing the pins vertically (which IS the stronger option as you noted in point #3) to horizontally (which was more consistent and about 20% faster on my printers). The longer than reasonable pin length is a result of several generations of test prints. I found that longer pins did a better job of collapsing the seam near the center of the connector - especially in the "L" connector. I agree that the dovetail overhang is unnecessary aggressive. I don't plan to revise it for now, but I always welcome remixes that improve my designs. If there's interest, I can make the STEP files available for these parts.
@@3DPrinty yeah, I have to admit that everything that I said about dovetails feels like a nitpick in this application, but could in the future help to debug and optimize faster more critical dovetail designs. I over engineered the **** out of the dovetails in my first design. It was a modular jig to make pilot holes at regular and controlled spacing. sadly I lost the stls and designs long ago. those dovetails where incredible strong (I may have wasted like a week testing variations to learn the limits of PLA)
Hey. Question. Just got a 3d printer and need a table for it what size table/workbench do I need. Enough room for the build plate movement? I got the anycubic Kobra max. Or just enough to support the base? Please help 🙏🏻. Trying to get it off my dining table. In inches please 🙏🏻
I don't have that exact printer to measure, but it's very important to account for the bed movement. You'll either need a table with more than enough space for the bed to slide back and forth or you'll need to accept the bed hanging over the front of the table (where it could get bumped). Finally, keep in mind that there are wires coming out of the back of the bed. These need room to gently flex as the bed moves. If they're pushed against a wall, those wires may break. Welcome to 3D printing. If this answer is insufficient, I'd check for online communities that have lots of Anycubic users who can tell you what works for them.
Lego is awesome, but not ideal for the large construction projects that Printy Pipes is designed for. They fill totally different niches, so comparing them is tricky.
