If anybody is having trouble running the CHRS with the volt meter check your fuse to the pump. If nothing is happening you might have a blown fuse. Check under the hood near the left headlight for the fuse box. Once you take the cover off look at the diagram and find the fuse labeled *1 it should be 10amps. Once you replace this then power should reach the relay and it’ll work once you short the relay with the volt meter.
Dude, this is a freaking phenomenal video. Inclusion of diagrams, your explanation and all - fantastic! You could easily make a 'gig' out of doing these! Headed to use this on mine now. Replaced my ICE coolant pump last week, thought I had this handled until I needed heat last night. :D
I can only run the pump by using metallic paper clips. My multimeter won't do it, whether set to 10 Amps or 20 mAmps. Does anyone know what could be the problem? Do I need a special type of multimeter? Thank you.
As far as I know, if no more air bubbles are coming out, you should be okay. As always, make sure you continuously check your car for the first few drives after and also consult other sources to ensure that that is the right direction to go! Let me know how it goes!
@@EyeOnAiman it did you up to the specified amperes, I just had to keep trying. Also, I noticed that if I kept turning the pump on/off a few times repeatedly it got some bubbles out then heard the pump run as it should. Thanks again for all the help
Thank you so much for your videos. I am surprised it is so tricky to replace a radiator. I successfully purged the air bubbles with the help of your thoughtful videos. One thing that was not clear to me was that you need to have a multimeter that can measure 10 Amps and not just mA. This is the first time I am seeing how you can short two terminals and measure amps at the same time. Very cool! At first I tried to use the mA feature because one of my multimeters did not have the 10 Amp feature. When attempting to use the mA feature, I measured .003 mA (which was erroneous) and the pump did not run. After reviewing videos, I set my automotive multimeter to the 10 Amp mode and successfully ran the pump. Thank you so much!
I really appreciate the video's on bleeding the air bubbles out of the three coolant systems. I did use the clamps from H.F. when replacing the my water valve (error code P1121) but still had about 3/4 of a gallon of coolent escape [user error]. Prior to viewing your video's and after installing the water valve, I added coolant to the radiator and the low level line of the overflow tank. I was able to add approx. the same amount that I lost. After viewing your video's: (1) I did the burping of the heating tank first ( I did this since I wanted to cover all my bases)... and I did not see any bubbles at the funnel I have attached to my radiator (with coolent in it) fill tube & was able to get to 3.99 twice (shorting the circuit no more than 15-20 seconds with 5 min. breaks in between. I did this shorting proces four times. (2) I did the burping of the heater core (using the inspection mode to keep the gas engine going approx. 20 min.'s). Again I did not see any bubbles, and the heater got quite hot and the hose near the bleed hex screw did get hot but not the hose leading from the thermostat to the radiator near the fill tube side of the radiator. I wondered if that is normal as the coolant is being cooled by the heater core and the fan pushing the hot air into the car. I never did see the two fans next to the radiator come on. [My concern is if the hose leading from the thermostat should be hot that the thermostat may be failing]. One more thing is that near the 15-20 min. mark the coolent level rose 2-4 oz.'s approx. I'm now letting the engine cool off and waiting to see if any of the remaining coolant will be sucked back in (currently the overflow tank level is still at low level). (3) I plan on bleeding the inverter after the 4-hour cool down. Thanks, and I look forward to your response regarding my concern of the hose leading from the therostat housing to the radiator not getting hot during the heater core bleeding process. Scott
Did you end up getting it fixed? I’m having this same issue right now and don’t know what it might be. The coolant doesn’t get sucked down the funnel when I’m jumping the pump
Excellent explanation! I have a question. My multi meter reads consistently at aroun 2.96. But the coolant seems full and I don’t see any bubbles coming out anymore. Does this mean it’s good? I know you said a reading at 2 or 3 means there is a lot of air in the system.
Glad you didn't have to go through the special bleeding procedure. Was that the main electric water pump by the engine? Did you drain the coolant at all or just whatever coolant that came off the hose & inside the engine?
@@EyeOnAimanI have no idea what "the main electric water pump by the engine" is. I replaced the engine cooling pump, the belt driven one. I drained the radiator before removing the pump.
@@DonziGT230 I meant to say mechanical, Gen II Prius have four water pumps, three electric and one mechanical. The mechanical pump is much like those on conventional four-cylinder engines: it is belt driven and bolted on with a handful of 10mm fasteners.
I just replaced the coolant valve, which I believe is for the inverter. If that’s so, would this system need bleeding? I am experiencing red triangle and overheat warnings.
The 3-way coolant valve is not for the inverter cooling system. It is actually for ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) cooling system which consists of top half of radiator, the associated hoses, 3-way coolant control valve, Coolant Heat Recovery Tank Canister (CHRS), auxiliary water heater pump, heater core, electric water pump & inside the engine block. It would appear that air bubbles might have been present inside this system, assuming that there was no issue with the red triangle of death & high temperature warning before the replacement of the control valve. Although it is a partially self-bleeding system, the air pockets need to be removed by first bleeding the air out of CHRS followed by burping the heater core. We have videos for all of these procedures, please check this channel for them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ils_T2XY_lk.html
Is the “pump” part of the CHRS unit or is it the coolant flow control valve? Getting P1121 and P1150 / P1151 . Tried jumping the pump unsuccessfully but sometimes I think I hear it come on. Saw another comment about a fuse being blown that could prevent jumping via the relay … but can the pump even come on if that fuse is blown?
I did all the bleeding, replace the 2 way and 3 way pumps, the thermostat the temperature sensor, I start having a p1116 now I don't see any codes and the car still overheating and the fan is in the rear passenger side gets on to, I can't understand what can be the problem
With Prius Gen II it most likely will not work but you can always try it to prove or disprove the hypothesis. Read the comment below (from Part 2 Video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ils_T2XY_lk.html - Toyota Prius Engine Coolant Bleeding Part 2: Burp Trapped Air Pockets Heater Core ICE Cooling System) Highlighted comment William Calhoon 2 days ago I am 64 years old. Young man you saved my ass. Here is my story. I had a code P1116 "Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor". I followed a video on how to replace the sensor. I drained the coolant into a 5 liter automotive container, replaced the sensor and slowly replaced the coolant like I have done so often over the years with other vehicles. Once the gravity feed stopped I had about a quart of coolant left over. Simple solution right just take the car for short drive so the coolant can run thru the system and when I get back I can I'll add more coolant. WROOOOONG! Luckily I had my diagnostic meter set to test the temperature sensor. After about a mile I was already over 200 degrees so I high tailed it back to my garage to investigate what the hell was happening. I found your video. I should have known that my Prius Gen II would have some incredibly complex procedure just to add coolant. Your demonstration on how to run the circulating pump was the key. Following your video I ran the circulating pump in short 10-15 second intervals adding my remaining coolant until the air bubbles ceased. My next test drive provided a steady 177 degree coolant temperature with hot air blasting out the vents. Again, thank you for your hard work in producing these videos. You saved one old fool from disaster.
My amp is 3.0 steady and no bubbles and just replaced coolant control valve by clamping the hoses and not actually draining the coolant tank. Is that amp number fine?
Thank you for the video. I changed my engine and couldn't get any heat after replacement. Using your info, jumpering the relay contacts took care of it.
Thanks to show me the way to bleach air out . Will you tell me the unit with the big silver cover on top of the transmission call and how to remove it please.
After changing the inverter coolant valve and coolant spills from the radiator, do we bleed the (1) CHRS, (2) heater core and lastly (3) inverter coolant valve in this order?
That coolant pump will be about 1.3 amps without coolant at the pump and about 4 amps fully loaded with coolant circulating. It took me several hours to change the coolant in the engine and the inverter on the same day and get the entire system vented. A full pain in the butt day of maintenance but cheaper than taking to the shop.
You need to have a multimeter that can measure 10 Amps (not mA). If you don't have the 10 Amp feature, you can use a wire to short the terminals. When I placed the multimeter in mA mode, I measured .003 (erroneous reading) and the pump did not run. When I placed the multimeter in 10 Amp mode, the pump ran, and at first I measured fluctuations between 2-3 Amps. Place the car into the accessories mode by pressing Start twice (without pressing the Brake). Connect the multimeter in the 10 Amp mode and run the motor for 15-20 seconds at a time while allowing the pump to rest a minute or two between runs (repeat 6 times). When the car is in the accessories mode, I measured about 3.94 amps. When not the car is off, I measured about 4.09 amps.
Great video but I am not having much luck here. I have a 2008 Prius. Lately, I started with a P1150 code which I think is caused by a bad temp sensor by the hot coolant container. Now troubleshooting I tried runing the coolant pump by using the method you show jumping the relay.. nothing happens, could it be a bad pump? I changed the sensor with one from Diacount Autoparts but now the heater tank is leacking... The sensor lools a bit differwnt tham the original and now even withbthe orifinal senaor it leaks... I may have brocken something... Now I have more codes some of them, I guess are caused by a low coolant level... p1116 p1118 p1150 p1122. The main question for now ia why isnt the pump working with the jump withbthe multimeter. Is there anotherway to start the pump? Thanks
You need to have a multimeter that can measure 10 Amps (not mA). If you don't have the 10 Amp feature, you can use a wire to short the terminals. When I placed the multimeter in mA mode, I measured .003 (erroneous reading) and the pump did not run. When I placed the multimeter in 10 Amp mode, the pump ran, and at first I measured fluctuations between 2-3 Amps. Place the car into the accessories mode by pressing Start twice (without pressing the Brake). Connect the multimeter in the 10 Amp mode and run the motor for 15-20 seconds at a time while allowing the pump to rest a minute or two between runs (repeat 6 times). When the car is in the accessories mode, I measured about 3.94 amps. When not the car is off, I measured about 4.09 amps.
srimurti haliche your directly connected through the pins at the relay......just as if you had the pump out on the ground and had 12v to the terminals. Be sure the wires are good to the pump. And it’s just my opinion! Make sure you’re at the right relay location too!
