Great info. You’re right by saying do what works best in your wheel house For me...I use a 7’ medium graphite rod 6:3/4.1 ratio cranking baits 0-12’ on 12# mono. Obviously mono no best choice around wood, brush...just cranking rock and gravel bottoms. I have a bit of a Pete rose hook set swing.... so mono serves me well. When I go 12’-25’+ I go to a 7’6” graphite with 15’ floro on a 7.5:1 reel. I will also use this same setup, but with 10’ floro fishing timber and brush.
I started bass fishing seriously at age 10, 1968 and got in my first BASS club in 1976. I’m not sure what year Graphite rods came out but the first ones where fragile and expensive. So for the first 15 years I bass fished it was all fiberglass. The graphite was lighter and more sensitive but I can recall the baits where my success rate dropped more than improved.
I use glass rods for some of my 20'+ super deep cranking and the only reason is because I use straight braid for it, unless I'm in crystal clear water, and the glass rod helps make up for the lack of stretch in the braid. The only reason I use straight braid for it is because I can get significantly deeper without sacrificing strength and at those depths the light penetration is so weak that the line isn't visible. I use 20# Maxcuatro or Vicious No Fade which is roughly the same diameter as 5# Sunline Sniper. Even though braid floats the thinner diameter has less resistance which helps gets the bait just as deep as 6# fluoro. I've tried all of the different sinking braids, but their abrasion resistance sucks. Also, since the line is stronger and has no stretch I can use thicker diameter trebles, which helps add a little more depth to bait and the 20# line has the strength to get a good hookset with the thicker hooks. The pros out way the cons. I have more control over the bait with it. The thinner diameter also gives the bait more action. Not to mention saves money because after a day of deep cranking with fluoro the line has stretched so bad that it has to be replaced. For a long time most people thought I was delusional for doing it, then Fritts came out that he does it too. If you haven't, give a try you may be shocked at the results.
I gave up glass when graphite came out, never looked back. Now the only considerations are cost, quality, action, length. Mostly use MH from 6’ to 8’, most 7-2, 7-6, but I also use ML, M, H, XH and spinning too. Like Bob Dole said when asked boxers or briefs... “depends”, on what you’re doing and what suits you. You are correct, good video.
I’m a glass guy for most situations including Jackhammers I let them load up on glass and they get it in their mouth deep. I use graphite and glass on lipless depending on the situation. Sometimes I want it ripping out quick out of the grass so I use graphite and sometimes I want it to come out slower then I use glass.
Pure bass gold. My crew was very unhappy last nite. Lol. We all gathered in the lounge made popcorn. Drinks. Then the stream failed. Lol. They decided to drink after that. Then dragged me out of my suite and threw me overboard. Lol. Hahahahahah. A real mutiny. All because Andrew Upshaws stream went down. Lol hahahabahah. Your a legend on this ship buddy. Lol
Man I respect you and your choice of cranking rods. I've been on all Lew's gear for two years now and I've had difficulty finding the right rods for certain applications within our lineup. I've tried the 7'6 mh Fritts, the 7 m hack attack, 7'3 mh TP1, the 7 m kvd, and the 7 ml wally marshall. They all Excell at one specific thing but some have broke, don't have enough flex, or are to dull. I wish they would make a true solid glass rod. I was on the Fritts 7'6 mh for thunder crickets but I stepped it up to the 7'4 H kvd for that.
@@AndrewUpshawFishing First time on your channel what i keep thinking is the infinite combinations of rod materials, rod designs, and line materials. It would seem to me that one could imulate the feel and performance of glass rod/low stretch line with a medium graphite rod with stretchy line, no? On youtube theres lot of rod tech discussion without mention of line characteristics, when really the rod reel and line are a system that can be tuned any way you want. Good video I appreciate it.
Yo Andrew when you did use a glass rod with a bladed jig what kinda hook set did you use? I have yet to use a glass rod but I do throw a chatter a lot & for me no matter what bait I'm using I use the reel into em and slow to mod sweep hook set & so far I haven't lost a fish yet.. even when landed those fresh water sharks ( pikes 😂 )..
I use both, all glass, graphite and I have some old team Daiwa composite rods (graphite, glass). Certain baits fish better on certain rods. Experiment and you will figure it out and then go with what feels good to you. Good fishing to you all.
I know this is unrelated to this video but a question has come up about the type of line used in flipping bushes and I was wondering if you could give me a good answer. I see some people use floro and some braid. Is floro a good line to use flipping cover? Thanks
So it depends where you’re at and how deep the bushes are. If they are 2-3ft bushes on a lake that has a ton of fish between 2-4lbs, I’ll go with fluorocarbon. If it’s Rayburn with 8 foot bushes I’ll go braid no questions asked
KVD uses a composite rod not a glass rod. Its a mixture of glass and graphite. With that being said I caught a 10lber on KY lake in a 6xd on a HVY action graphite rod that I felt was more of a Med HVY and would be a great big cranking rod. Apparently I was right lol I’ve also caught several 5 and 6 pounders on my skeet Reese glass rod. I’m talking no backbone what so ever lol I think you’re right it’s all about the angler. I also started catching better fish when I bought a 5 speed reel. I think it makes the crankbaits action better being reeled slower
