"youre not going to be setting any records on your first run" Well wait a stinkin minute sir, you're going to beat your personal record the first time by default. so there.
Dude again with the great video! Im really glad you have the time to take out of your day to make these and inform other drivers alike. I truly admire that passion.
Hey man Good vid. Hop you don't mind if I add to it. Your hand position on the wheel, excellent. and it's fixed, you see a lot of new and even some experienced drivers shuffling their hands around the wheel. If you do that it will cause you to lose the ability to counter steer quickly in one direction, it also means you have lost your reference point as to which was is straight on the wheel, meaning when you do correct, you are very likely to over correct and snap back the other way. On your Tyres point. Yep low grip will be far more forgiving and allow a more analogue failure curve, get onto semi slicks and the line between grip and none is a lot thinner meaning there is less indication that you are about to lose traction and it all happens much quicker, couple with the fact you are going faster is a recipe for disaster if you're not ready for it. Brake fluid.... if you're getting fade it's more likely to be your fluid, not the pads, flush the system, if you track you should swap it out every 3 to 6 months. If you can, get some high end stuff, it's a bit exy, but just some ok stuff that is regularly bled and flushed will do for most applications
Change out the brake fluid!!! if you're running regular DOT3/4 brake fluid, moisture will get into the braking system through the lines and lower's the boiling point. Just %3 saturation will drop the boiling point to unsafe levels for on the track. Go to walmart/Autozone and pick up a fresh big bottle of it and flush out the lines. If you're running a race synthetic brake fluid... it's substantially more resistant as it's starting boiling point is way higher than the cheap stuff. I found this out the hard way at the end of a long straight doing 120mph in an 09 STI.
That track looks so much fun, i wish we had such tracks here but all of our tracks are just flat so no cambered corners sadly. We do events on go kart tracks all the time, trackdays here in Slovakia are expensive and the only track we have has too many straights and is more high-speed than most other tracks and it puts a lot of stress on the car. And parking lot autocross is just not something for me, because i would get lost every lap.
Another good thing I didn't mention, is since you carry less speed, if you do make a mistake it's not as big of a deal, haha. I recommend that everyone start on crap tires.
Another reason for more normal tires is that sticky tires are not as forgiving as normal street tires. They have a very narrow working range regarding temperature, slip angle and all that. On my M3 I drive 2 bar hot tire pressure and if it rises or falls just 0,1 bar it loses a good amount of grip already. So for just driving and learning and focussing on what you do it's the better choice not to go for sticky tires first. Plus: You learn to drive smoothly. Because you'll have to work around the weak tire.
My first track day which was also my first time really driving my car other than moving it in and out of the driveway was on a track covered in black ice with summer tires with not much thread and in pitch black. It was a fun time 😂
I drive my stock miata on track really often. Although yesterday Xida is on. After some seat time, brake won't necessarily happen on straight. But still helpful video!
You might be able to trail brake more as you get more experience, but even if you're a top professional driver you're still going to do most of your braking on the straight. If you're going 105mph into a 40mph corner, you won't be able to trail brake off that speed. How do you like the Xidas?
TheCarPassionChannel Yes. No doubt about that. I just installed them yesterday so have no idea how good they are. But first impression is that the initial part is softer? I don't drive my car on street so I just drive it from lift onto the trailer. will let you know after I finish the first track day!
Along with not needing coilovers and turbo to get started on the track, those can actually make it more difficult to learn and more dangerous. With coils/turbo/sticky tires the limit is a lot higher up, and when you go over the limit, you're moving a lot faster than you are on stock power/suspension and street tires. Much more potential for a really bad wreck.
Will you make a video on how to setup and wire your LS2 coils for ignition? I've looked at the forums and their wiring diagrams are very confusing. I think it would be a pretty popular vid!
Hello, my friend built a turbo Miata based off your broke and boosted playlist. It won't start and I figured I would ask a Miata guru. After turboing we drove it around for a couple miles. The afr was lean even with the richest fmu disk in it (about 17 cruising and 14 WOT). One day it died on the side of the road and we suspected fuel pump. He replaced the fuel pump but between that time he arced the positive battery terminal to the chassis to the point of the terminal glowing red. The car will now only crank, it has no fuel pressure or spark. Also the check engine light does not turn on when you turn the key on which I am told means the stock ecu is not communicating. All pins on the ecu are getting power and ground in the correct spots. Fuel pump will cycle if you jump the diagnostic terminals. We have swapped out a CAS and good ecu. So now we're not sure if we have been chasing the issue of the car dying or the battery arcing has caused a new issue. If you have any suggestions whatsoever that would be awesome. It kills me to watch his car sit there and nobody has an answer for him. Thanks
The issues you're talking about don't relate to the turbo itself, if you're running 17 cruise AFR you've either got a big unmetered air/vacuum leak or the o2 sensor is not connected right/not working. Arcing the positive terminal to the chassis sounds like a pretty serious issue, you might want to try swapping out the ECU and also check all the fuses/relays in the entire car. No fuel/spark is 100% an electrical problem
Hi there, I know this is a older video but I'm still going to give it a shot. I'm trying to find cheap track days around my area. But the only thing I can find is trackdays on larger tracks, how did you find these kind of trackdays on a kart track? Or, how did you find this particular event. Thanks in advance
Hey man love the channel!!! I'm really enjoying the depth of the content! I'm trying the same approach as you on my channel which I'm starting up again. I know your car is different than mine but it would mean a lot if you could give me some feedback! Thanks and keep up with the content!!!
+uvasam13 Usually a track day costs $75-$200 where I live, depending on what track it is and who's running the event. Usually I get to drive so much that I skip the last session of the day, it's well worth it. This little track was $75, a group of us all pitched in to rent it out.
Just call them they'll let you know what's up. They have a calendar on their site telling you what days are drift/grip etc, you just show up on those days, I think it's $20/session.
Here's a video of my first time at the track after turbocharging my 1.6 Miata! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bL7x1c9Syro.html Thanks for your tips!
