Pro Tools YOU Need as a Home Mechanic 

Perfect. Please also make a video about different types of grease we might need to keep at home for servicing bikes.

Another option for torque wrenches is the analog ones. They don't need calibration. And while they are a little more fiddly having to read the bar needle, they are cheaper and for the home mechanic only using it every once in a while, it's not so bad.

seasoned high end car tech's routine.....if possible clean before. Working on clean items has so many benefits...cleaner shop, hands, less tool slippage...etc. tools and parts are less prone to damage. customers and techs happier. creates a touch of class for all.............

Came here for the “Fravorite” Was not disappointed.

One thing I’ve got that I’ve used a lot is a brake piston press in my bike tool box works better than a flat blade screwdriver.

That's not a Cobra, that's a Pliers Wrench. And it's not the smallest one. Love the videos, keep it up.

My takeaway is the 5 sided spanner for brake lines. I'll be getting one of those. Edit: the kind shown is discontinued. The replacement is the Park Tool MWF-3. It's called a "flare wrench"

Where has that Hub cap tool been all my life?! I didn't even know it existed

I quite like the Decathlon chain whip thingy, it's a lump of metal like a spanner but with a flat end with pegs in it that slot between the teeth of 11 / 12 /13 / 14 tooth cassettes (at least my old BTwin version does). Sub £20, even an idiot (hello!) can use it.

1. Torque wrenhes 2. If your riding off road, a derailleur hanger alignment gauge. 3. Good quality hexes.

The best video on bike tools I ever watched. Useful and honest tips, 👍🏻

Ever tried the Rohloff Revolver chain tool? It’s not cheap, but it’s been doing a great job for years now in my (home) workshop. I think that for screws with restricted access a mini ratchet like the Topeak Mini Ratchet Rocket comes in extremely handy as well.

Thanks. Very helpful.

For chain tools I’d recommend the smaller park tool one. You don’t want to crank down on the chain tool that’s how you damage the pin. If you have to crank hard it’s not aligned properly. If it’s all lined up it doesn’t take that much effort to break the chain

If you release the tension on your torque wrench when you store it, it will need less calibrating

Excellent vid, thanks!

That was great! Thanks.

Thanks for the vid 👍

Brilliant stuff

A good option for chain removal tool is the Topeak multitool one, it is small but you can attach a long handled 4mm allon key to the screw to get loads of leverage

A couple more: Chain cleaning tool Tyre levers Syringe and hose for tubeless sealant topups

ZTTO HAG 5 should be something everyone should have, it's a cheap but great derailleurhanger tool and it solves a lot of problems!

A really handy video well worth a watch.

Really well made and helpful video. The concise descriptions you provide are so effective at explaining what to think about when acquiring/using these tools. Your experience comes through in spades. I've learned so much about bikes from you. Thank you!

There’s fancier options and less fancy options. But generally speaking, I completely agree with your list

Thanks. I'll be checking some new tools. Already got the Wera Allen keys. Nice.

I love Wera tools been using them for years excellent quality 😊 Pete

I have a lot of these tools. Mix of Wera, Park and Pedros. Love that yellow.

I would add reusable zip ties for putting on Marathon Plus tyres, helps compress the tyre down when putting them on.

The Time frame hanging up looks amazing.

My favourite chain tool is an old one from Giant, I can easily replace the pins and I seem to still be able to get them.

I have those allen keys and they are fantastic. I also have many of the other tools on your desk

The first time I used a hub genie was like a woah what have they made here moment. I think it could do with some refinement like a rubberized gripper on the shaft to help tighten it by hand a bit better but it's a minor thing.

We share the Icetoolz cassette tool, the Wera hex set, the Park master link tool, the park cable cutters and the Knipex adjustable plyers. Of course that's just the tip of the iceberg with tools like the Abbey HAG hiding at the bottom.... far away from my wife's knowledge of how much they really cost compared to what I told her they cost.

Stubbled into your channel, I'm hooked. Lol. Great to see an all round comprehensive video steered to the home mechanic. Wera tools are just fantastic and not stupid money either and great to see recommended by a full time workshop where they see extensive use. Best infrequent tool in my box. Park internal cable routing I.R.2 yes expensive for what it is, but it makes any internal cable job a cinch.

Regarding the calibration of torque wrenches: I use a beam type torque wrench(Park) as the benchmark of my other torque wrenches, then I can have more consistent results from cheap wrenches.

Very good content. You use the same ideas and methodology I use as a weekend (month end, summer end? LOL) auto mechanic. Some tools I use all the time and therefore buy the best I can afford. Some tools I use very infrequently so I only spend as much as I feel I need in order to do the job once or twice as they often don't last very long.

Invest in good quality wire cutter. Keeps braided cables from fraying. Knipex is what I use.

The wera screwdrivers are definitely amazing tools:)

The Wera allen keys are amazing. The top of the line Park t-type all metal wrenches are great too but very expensive. Three other recommendations for home mechanics: 1. JIS screwdrivers. The bolts used in Shimano derailleurs are JIS standard, they are not Phillips. Get the right screwdriver and it works much better. They also have better engagement with regular Phillips head fasteners. 2. The Feedback Sports Range torque wrench. The old beam type is great, they make a new click-type as well. These are inexpensive, small, easy to use and (apparently) accurate. 3. The Bike Hand beam-type repair stand. The beam-type repair stands are much mroe stable than home folding clamp-type. Also, it's impossible to damage your bike with a beam type. Lastly, they allow you to rotate the bike around and lift it up exposing the bottom bracket all of which makes it easier to clean and work on bikes. The Bike Hand one is relatively affordable, very well made (it will last a lifetime), very stable and fits basically any bike out there.

Paul great vid …….I’d add axle vice and set of magnetised picks (set of 3 various head angles), set of files for outercable ends.

0:50 I would but a cassette tool without the centering pin because then you can use it on a fork as well

Knipex twin grip slip joint pliers are so handy for all jobs on and off the bike especially if dealing with a knackered nut or bolt....

Good list. As said below, Felco cable cutters. Had mine for 25 years.

Also hex wrench sizes good to hunt down are 11mm, 12mm (15/32), 14mm (9/16), and I think 15mm. All four are used either from the front or back side of certain brand hubs to loosen/remove freehub bodies. Often times those sizes don’t come in the usual set. The fractional sizes are closest to the metric and often will work in a pinch.

I have most of what you covered and then some. I have built up bikes from ground zero several times. Now, I just do the maintenance on mine unless I have something that totally stumps me then to my LBS.

That Time frame in the background looks hella nice

I highly recommend Lifeline tools. That hub genie looks like it's going to be my next purchase though.

6:40 you should give the felco cable cutters a try. Beautiful Swiss tools that actually make cutting cables fun..

If you are truing bladed spokes, get a spoke holder. Its much easier. Dt swiss makes an incredible one.

Chain whip, I use a motorcycle clutch/flywheel holding tool, or if not at home you can use a towel to hold the cassette

Personally never needed pliers for removing the quick link - bare hands and gloves were always just fine for both sram and kmc :) For the chain pin removal tool - there are ones with replaceable tip, so once it wears out you dont have to throw away the entire tool. What I do miss in the list is the 15mm key for undoing pedals, and the derailleur hanger alignment tool which one uses more often than expected, especially on mtbs. Also, to test if the chain is already too long can be done with just regular calipers.

Halfords Advanced/Pro hand tools for UK peeps is a no brainer, used the 200pc box for the past 10+ years on cars and bikes, zero wear. Tried the IceToolz cable cutters and broke one of the jaws, which is crazy, back to my 10+ year old Park cutters. Park quick link pliers. Mix of IceToolz/Shimano/Park cassette/freewheel tools, no longer in use since Unior released their cassette holder and lockring tool. IceToolz chain breaker. Park truing stand and spoke tension meter. Sapim spoke keys. A single Vessel 2x150 JIS screwdriver. £5 Homebase saw horse as a bikestand for 5+ years.

Park Tool Cassette Pliers are much easier to use than the Park Tool Chain Whip SR-12.2. You don’t have to fiddle with chain engagement onto the correct sprocket or in the right direction (clockwise or anticlockwise)

Regarding the chain breaker. Abbey tools makes the one called Decade but it's expensive. My go to is KMC one with green/black handle. Comes with reversible pin with one extra. One side lasts a lifetime, you got four. Works on all chains and costs around 20 to 30 euros.

Do you guys even realize how good you are for the community. Around my area mechanics have 2 two tools and one peace of advice. Old plyers, WD40 and as advice they say, your bike sucks by a new one. Theres only one guy that could find that had a facing tool. He did the job for me with out cleaning and oil. Just rushed through it... I am seriously thinking about fly over to you guys for a few days...

Birzman make tools for evenly pushing brake caliper pistons back in. I got the disc brake piston pusher, but I see now they have made a new version as well because of 4 piston calipers. I've at least found this to be my favorite tool because it makes adjusting brakes so much easier because you do not need to remove the wheel nor the caliper. The other best thing is it gives and even push every time so you won't have to crack those ceramic pistons like I have in my Shimano calipers(nor push them in skewed just in general), that so many have cracked because they used wrong method/tools. I'd say that's a tool even more useful for beginners to avoid wrong practice, like sticking a flatsided screwdriver in there and just twisting and bending.

I would spend the extra money to get a torque that clicks instead of the analog torque. For some applications it’s fine. But I found for some bolts, monitoring the reading and applying force is just too tricky. You not only have to see the indicators but you have to align your eyes correctly so the reading not off. Imagine finding yourself a leverage to apply 40N, pushing down on the BB tool so it doesn’t slip on the tiny contact surface and bending over or squatting down to get the correct reading.

Those Wera allen and torx kits are amazing, would recommend using them for any thing. Bought some with my own cash to use for the bike shop i work in!

I have a little 5nm torque key which is great for travelling with the bike when you come to refit the stem and seatpost.

I’d add a Dremel tool, just to clean cable housing cuts. I have had the old Shimano cutters, Felcos, and some other regarded cutter, but they all mangle housing a bit. The Dremel lets me make the end smooth and square.

That hub end cap tool is brilliant, I have to get one. I'm always tearing my hair out trying to remove the end caps on my Hope hubs.

The DT Swiss Pro spoke drivers are my favorite. Working in a very big shop, the park ones wear out or wear out nipples easier. The DT takes far more abuse without destroying $$$ wheels. I think they are like $30 but totally worth!

I'm still using the chain checker with 0.75 and 1.0. I haven't progressed past ten speed.

Usual quality vid…reminded me I’ve had my gorilla Allen keys ( recommended to me by a mechanic ) for literally decades as well as some Park ones that are possibly 8 YO so maybe time for some new ones and a proper set of star key ones ( I thought this might go away but seems to be becoming more prevalent)

Crescent cable cutters are good .

Wiha is also fantastic

One issue with torque wrenches that may be a problem for home mechanics is the lack of understanding of what variables can affect torque. If the thread is dirty or damaged, then the clamping power of that fastener would be lower than the same undamaged, well greased fastener at the same torque setting.

What's your opinion about Abbey tools? I know they tend to be pretty expensive, but what about using them as a value proposition due to their longevity in used.

I’d probably go with a cassette tool that works with quick release/rim brake as well as disk brake through axle rather than through axle tool only. But a good basic list anyway :)

Paul channels his inner Dave Rome.

Ahh this was like a check list of tools in my toolbox. The next investment will be a BB press as i now have 5 bikes with press fit systems. I'm just trying to decide on the HHP-3 or going all in with the BBP 1.2.

Shimano makes an excellent chain link closer.

Everyone should have an Easytyre tool. They’re cheap £10, and work brilliantly. Just watch it on your carbon rims.

Try Felco cable cutters.

With the chain splitter, have you considered tampering your pin so you don't need to replace the tool so often? Just heat it with a blow torch and quench in oil then stick it in the oven for a while and it should be waaaaaayyy more durable!

Its a great video. Its pity that private person can't buy ICE TOOLZ , they only sell to dealers or bike shops, so all home mechanic in Sweden have to continue use medium quality tools.

I've been using drapers allen key set for 20 years. Used on many bicycles and motorcycles engine rebuilds. Must have been good back then, still going not really worn.

I've got the park CP12 chain pliers ... what is the smallest size sprocket you'd use them on? I have an 11-28 cassette, and struggled to use them on one of the middle sprockets (maybe I have small hands!)

My recomendation for Knipex is second size: the one you showed is bit too small for threaded headset locknut. Should you still ever come across such

The long waited video. We can see King Arthur's Excalibur 😊

Pedro's vice whip instead of the cp1s ,way better in every way

On the torque wrenches, something you mentioned in a previous video is that the socket bit which come with the wrench generally suck. For higher torque bolts (14nm plus in my experience) it’s worth getting a higher quality set of bits to prevent damage to the bolt

Comment from the 1990s. Generally Allen keys of the right length give the right torque if you are sensible (duly noting the ones in the vid were quite long) in terms of calibration measure the length of your torque wrench and hang weights off it ...or was that wheeler dealers I am thinking of!

Could you go into more detail about the qualms you have about the Topeak Prepstation pro kit? I’m actually really,y interested in picking one up as it is discounted by a large amount. It seems to have all the tools you mentioned in this clip and I like the ergonomics of being able to wheel it around and expand it horizontally and vertically

Park Tool cable cutters are junk. Search for secateurs style cable cutters, sometimes known as parrot beak cutters. You don't need bike specific ones, they're just generic cable cutters, they're sharp and cheap and they last for years. The Spokey brand style spoke key shown is the beginners model, the pro model has 2 stacked inserts so you get double the engagement on the nipples and they last for years. Quick link pliers are incredibly simple tools, you definitely don't need park tool ones, generic ones are fine.

Excellent info 👌 Question, What's your view of the preset torque wrenches like presta cycle? I have one and find it very handy for things like stem bolts but no idea if it is accurate and whther its getting less accurate the more I use it 🙂

The Abbey chaintool is the best

Hey great list. If you haven't checked them out already for your shop, Abbey Bike Tools makes exceptional professional grade tools. Especially their "decade" chain breaker. It's $$$, but they built it for longevity.

There are 2 types of Spokeys. You have the regular version in your video. Always buy the Pro version which has much larger engagement area for the nipples and don't wear out at all. And always buy the correct size for nipples, e.g. black and red Spokeys.

I’m a professional mechanic and find the Topeak cable cuts much better than the Park ones. They last a lot longer and have a much cleaner cut.

3:26 The ones on Lezyne Rap 14 multitool, and the Lezyne Chain Drive are really robust, even on a stubborn link it won't fail, but they are tiny. But it's steel, and the support thing in the middle is tall enough. That's important. Never buy a cheap Alu chain breaker, they will bend, like Lezyne SV10 multi tool. I retired it. I like the Lezyne Chain Drive, proper construction, but it's tiny, but I don't need bigger. Pin did not bend, nor did the body.

3:41 The Hex-Plus has sold me on these. I just have to buy them. 4:01 Too much torque thing can be solved by having hand further in, or just not pushing hard on it, just go gently go by feel, once it stops it's enough. Some bike factories overtighten stuff hard, and those should be using torque wrenches right? But if you come across that or you did that by mistake, and it's completely stuck, there might be a fix, put the tool in the freezer for a while, some hot water on the bike or part, and use the cold tool to loosen. I had to do that to correct a mistake someone at a Trek factory did. How is it even possible to over torque it to insane level of torque when it's 10nm? So tight tool was bending. But the freezer hack worked well.

Advising home mechanics to change their torque wrench with that kind of frequency seems a bit over the top!?! It's perhaps worth noting that at the cheapest end of the spectrum (I'm looking at you Jobsworth) the wrenches actually lock out below 2nm and will just apply whatever torque you can muster. After dealing with several stuck disc calipers this year (not all mine, some belonged to my extended family) my recent investment in a specific piston press tool seemed like a good one. Likewise a disc truing fork has also been useful. Wera are simply excellent.

I've always wanted a Park Tool DSD-2 JIS screwdriver for limit screws ... just because I'd know I wasn't butchering the screws with a philips/pozi screwdriver.

I too use Wera (pronounced Vera by the way, it's German) and Knippex which is also German so they pronounce the K :-) Great selection of suggestions here. Perhaps you can do another one for older bikes with for example crank removal etc tools.

This was very well done and useful. My two cents: if you are just getting started and are on a budget, the FOUNDATION STANDARD BIKE TOOL KIT at Jenson USA is very versatile and is a tremendous value for the money. I also believe the pieces are manufactured in Taiwan, not China. That matters to me. Thanks, and all the best.

3:18 No pins offered as spares? Lezyne does that, even comes with a spare. But I've not broken one yet. but I don't have to cut chains anymore. As with the current setups just use a 118 link chain and it fits.

Are Wera torque wrenches any good in your opinion? Once again, great video!

If the calibration is an issue with torque wrenches, would torsion beam version ones be a good idea just for carbon finishing kit. Lezyne and Topeak both do one. Cheaper and I guess stay accurate for longer??