Here's the method that worked for me. Pour in the sulfuric acid to a couple of inches above the chips. Put it on low heat until they're just starts being a reaction. This will reduce the foam to very small amount. Cook it for several hours stirring occasionally to break up the bottom and let it cook. Turn off the heat and let it cool to warm Don't wait for it to get cold and don't process it hot and splatters everywhere. When it's warm pour it off and wash it and do another boil the same way. It might take several boils but when you get down to the bottom and the only thing you have left is some fiberglass patches dies and wire you're good to go. If there's anything left in it carbon-wise or chip wise do another boil on it until there's nothing left but the fiberglass gold and dies.
I've been collecting these for 3 years now... 2/3 of a bucket. I took them and split the plastic part from the fiberglass just the other day, using a 1/2" wide wood chisel, intentionally dull. Thanks for walking through the next steps!
at time 4:50 don't forget to mention that usually the solder balls for the bga chips will consist of silver solder vs tin/lead solder for better electrical conductivity of the electrical signals. Keep the lower parts and process for the silver and some gold.
Who Needs a foundry? I use a dog food steel can and an old bar-b-q. A little dried wood and a leaf blower to accelerate the flame a little. Chips incinerated in 10 minutes
Yeah, but I also do lost foam casting in aluminum and brass. Since I have a foundry, I use it. I hate to see it sitting idle. Your way would be good for people who want to avoid wet ashing and won't get in trouble for smoking up the neighborhood.
@@Prince-nt4dc Tin? Not here. I cut off all the legs before I incinerate the IC's. I don't use acid to get rid of the legs either. I use a magnet to get the magnetic stuff, and use a find copper mesh filter to screen out the larger legs. If there are any legs left, Then I'll use the acid to get rid of the copper legs and wires. I also remove the Silicon Dies before I crush the chips. No use making a mess of them when you can pull them out whole and not break them into millions of small pieces. Work smarter, not harder.
@@scrapman502 no matter how much you cut the legs, there is still some percentage of tin and the biggest problem is that during the burning the tin sticks to the gold but the nitric acid does not corrode it and the gold remains wrapped in the tin. that way you lose gold.
Great video! Thanks. Have you made a video for the tops using the foundry method? And thanks for describing your process for doing the bottoms! I have over 1/2 kilo of bottoms - should get some gold from them. Thanks again!! All your videos are very well done - VERY helpful. Jim in Phoenix.
Hello, Just finished watching your 2 new videos about refining dirty gold. Great info! Thought you would like to know that I just used your gold corner IC info on 1002 grams of bottoms. What's interesting is the weight loss from just getting rid of the tin solder in the Muriatic acid boil. The tin solder weighed 155 grams! Unfortunately the weather here in Phoenix has turned nasty. Will finish the nitric boil when the weather clears up. I'll email again with the recovered gold amount. Many thanks! Your channel is awesome!! Jim
the first one that is talking about the reality. Bondwires are 100% pure gold and the PCB are only goldplated with 25 or less micron. You are right man, that is a good explanation how to get the gold and separate the stuff befor process it.
An extremely easy way to separate the two; purchase a Weller Heat Gun with selecting temperature. I use this to easily remove nearly everything from motherboards, memory sticks, etc...
Classic example of "Do as I say, not as I do!" You do know that the gold bond wires will go thru the strainer. You will find gold in the acid you poured off. The only way, unfortunately to prevent this is to dilute the acid with water. a lot of it. This will make things get really hot. Also HOT sulfuric acid will also dissolve copper. Those metal tops of the BGA's were solid copper. That's probably what's taking so long to process them. the Gold "dust" is actually the gold pads and traces you mentioned earlier you said wasn't worth processing. It's actually pretty thick like gold fingers. Hey, Gold is Gold.
Never fear, nothing got thrown away. I figured there would be some gold in the acid. I further diluted and decanted off the dilute acid in the smaller beaker. There was a fair amount of solids in the bottom, but almost all of it was fiberglass debris. There were only a few small visible particles of gold. That material went into my used gold filter storage container so it isn't lost. I have plans for the concentrated acid waste too. Once I have a large amount built up, which may take a while since I don't do wet ashing that often, I plan on dumping it into a bucket of ice. Once the ice melts and the acid is diluted, the solids in it should be easy to recover.
I absolutely hate wet ashing also. A dear friend lost the use of both hands from it. You can filter your sulfuric acid to get the small gold particles with a Charmin plug made from fiberglass
No thanks. Piranha solution is too dangerous. Besides, I've found a better way. I just incinerate the chips. It only costs me a bit of propane and gets rid of all the carbon too. Check out a later video I made of the process: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l38-8x52YEw.html
@@omegageek64 Disagree wet ashing is the best way, no lost gold, less to process and very simple. Your using sulphuric acid, doesnt get more dangerous than that unless your using super acids. Pirahna solution doesnt reguire heat OR do you wet ashing with sulphuric acid until the process is done than add in hydrogen peroxide so it consumes the carbon in minutes than filter, boom you had to deal with piranha solution all for a couple minutes. Incinerating takes to long, its creates a lot of dust and mess, its very simple and anyone can do it with a fire and a coffee can but incinerating isnt for me. I started around 2005 and have a backgroubd in chemistry so I have no problem handling acids unlike ewaste ben. My opinion of him is really bad. Hes a scrapper and only that, anyone getting into gold recovery shouldnt listen to him one bit. I mainly buy and sell on ebay, from gold recovery to rare and expensive hardware like samples and prototypes. Ill still do some gold recovery but nothing like after getting my health diagnosis. Gold recovery is fun but selling on ebay is far better, more money, kess time refining, no money spent on chemicals and I didnt sell much but no need to deal with whoever your selling too which usually is pawn shops for a lot of people. Thats my opinion on it all.
The fiber bottoms on gold corner BGAs have very little gold. They are almost not worth the trouble of processing unless you have a ton of them. Even then it is a royal pain.
I don't believe we can get sulphuric acid here in Australia. Which is annoying I tried to get some weak acid for a battery and they don't won't sell it to you
Next time try poverizing your chips to a powder and any items that are encapsulating the gold or other material that you are trying to remove. It works faster and easier to the end result and you will not have to worry about not getting everything out of material.
On other youtuber video he say same staff about the top as u say about bottom part. U broke off top so gold stick to that parth but if u cut around the top before popping it off gold stay in bottom part not on top, so it is just depend how u separate the two part. U both made around same amount of gold but i like your process better cause no need of usae a sharp knife and cant cut yourself with it :)
Not sure. Probably some. It's probably only a small fraction of the gold content. Little more than a contaminant I suspect. I don't recover palladium at present. It and any other PGM contaminants are just going to accumulate in my stock pot for the next few years. Someday I will get around to trying to recover them.
Incinerating is fairly easy I put the whole thing in a sturdy tin can an build a fire around it in my chiminea you need to have a nice bed of coals first than put the can in and stack wood around it the fire will take off and you will have very little smoke and smell when done crush ashes and pull out magnetic stuff and proceed with aqua regia
Not dumb. You aren't the first to suggest it. It may be worth a try. However, there really isn't very much gold in the bottoms, in spite of how pretty they look. It would take a literal ton of them to amount to any real gold.
@@omegageek64 fair enough, I just recently saw someone actually make the "part 2" and they where not planning on making the part 2 for the same reasons. Thanks for the reply. and love your videos.
Not a process I would promote as the fumes are as hazardous as the acid itself causing severe burns to your throat and lungs, I would politely suggest you edit your video and add in the real dangers from the fumes in this process, this process is not for the unprepared amateur unaware of the risks.
Well, since this comment j tried this, minus the gold fingers, just to see how it would go. Dissolved a ton of copper and I may have visually observed one tiny speck of Gold foil if anything at all. Just goes to show, somethings on the internet ARE true lol. Thank you for all your content. I refer to it quite regularly.
I accumulate the gold powder until I have at least a half ounce. Then I re-refine it before melting it. I don't bother melting every little bit I get as I get it.
now I am 42 years old and I started extracting gold from electronics and other different things from when I was 15 years old I can tell you that you either cut off part of the video or you are hiding something because at 32:07 you pour water and very little nitric acid. such a process cannot exist. thanks for sharing anyway
Not sure what your issue is? As I clearly stated in the video, I was giving the material a boil in dilute nitric acid to dissolve any copper or other base metals present. Water plus a little concentrated nitric acid is the recipe for dilute nitric acid.
@@omegageek64 for me the water was to much and the nitric acid very little. then nitric acid no matter how pure it is there will be no reaction I know from personal experience
Hydroflouric acid dissolves ceramic and glass only shipped and stored in stainless steel. You don't want to bother ! DEADLY and instantly absorbed into the body it will dissolve bones while you are alive😨remove legs and just cush ceramics add ar filter off wash well 3x reduce wash water by boiling off add acid to water than precipitate save your liquors for silver and palladium test later on 😎
@@iamanempoweredone6064 I really wish I had a decent hammer mill. On the other hand, I don't process that many ceramic chips, so I'm not sure it would be a good investment for that. However, I would also love to have one for dealing with gold ore.
@@richardperkins3612 Hydroflouric acid is scary stuff. I had to use it some years ago to etch serial numbers on glass standards. I was very glad when I didn't have to do that any more. It is just to toxic to deal with on an amateur basis. Even with all the PPE and a decent fume hood my employer provided, it was scary. Getting rid of the waste acid was tough too.
@@omegageek64 Thank you, I have yet to process any material. I am researching different methods before I try anything. By the time I feel comfortable enough with the methods I should have a good bit of e-waste scrap saved.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Z1IGdIIsLNU.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Z1IGdIIsLNU.html Przy zastosowaniu mojej metody wystarczyło by rozcięczyć wszystko wodą i do roztworu dodać mojego tajemniczego płynu i wszystko złoto wypłynie na powierzchnię roztworu tak jak widać na filmie i po problemie przekaż znajomym-Pozdrawiam
