@@barrypack4599, the most affordable background solution would be with Savage Seamless Paper Rolls. They come in several different widths and many solid colors. Here is a link showing the rolls we currently stock. bhpho.to/3bR5jvN
besides lights to highlight the edge of a product or giving the product more 3D depth. since the camera is on a tripod and in a situation you need more light, why not just make the shutterspeed longer compared to increase the light strength or if/when one's light isnt enough?
Wes Jerdon I like layers, the top layer is a button down collared shirt, the one below it is a long sleeve Henley shirt and then a basic t shirt underneath that :)
Paper towels and shower curtains. Next time I'm at the Dollar Store Im going to get all my studio supplies. Oh yeah they have clamps there as well. No I'm not joking. 😁
May I add, and yes look at my profile pic, if you use the paper towel to defuse an incandescent light remember that these light bulbs get HOT and can start a fire with the paper towel. SO PLEASE make sure there is space between the bulb and the paper. Actually any paper and an incandescent light bulb is dangerous. You may want to think about using wax or parchment paper that is rated to go into the oven to soften/defuse the harsh light of an incandescent bulb.
firebeecher What fool would press the paper directly against the bulb? Defeats the entire purpose of adding diffusion. And an low watt incandescent bulb isn’t a Tota. Calm down.
The tip for creating defused light with paper towels and a picture frame was great. So simple, but I never thought about it. This will work for me - I have three tt685 speedlights and a x-pro trigger, but no defuser.
Paper towels are a terrible idea. If the bulb is burning too close for an extended period of time, it could set the paper towel on fire, definately a fire hazard. Can't believe they recommended people do this.
Normally when i saw a stroke that keep my attention is not a good sign (the back panel is awesome!!!)... until i go see on your site: 1700$usd for the head alone - OUCH!
I wish I could learn how to shoot objects that the light seems to be coming inside from it... Maybe that could be next tutorial? I bought my hole cameraset at b&h. By the way my camera is Nikon D750
I do product photography full time in a professional studio and these are great tips! Though, I would try to stay away from incandescent bulbs - you can get $50 off brand speedlite and a transmitter that will do just fine. Black and white tri-fold foam core boards are my best friend for bouncing and flagging light. I like using strobes and hot lights for different scenarios, I love the power of the strobe, but hot lights are easier to work with for mirrorless cameras. I find that proper white balance and color can be difficult when working with different sources of light so i always throw a color checker in a test shot to make it easier in post, they are way more expensive than they need to be but there are $15 alternatives. We have huge seamless paper backdrops in the studio, but they are a pain to swap out by myself, so I usually just stick with a light gray then mask and use a gradient map in Photoshop to change the back drop color. The blue sticky tack teachers use is great for propping up or holding small products in place.
Your product photography is very beautiful but if you have any editing work in photoshop you can definitely work with us we are professional photo editing company
For product photography do you always take multiple photos and combined in photoshop, so product is all in focus? or if taking one image what is the best aperture to shoot for sharp and in focus product?
Ana Cadena I think it depends on what you’re photographing. Personally, I do both. If I just wanted a single spot on the watch in focus I would have just taken one photo. If you’re taking a single image and you want as much in focus as possible then you’ll want a more closed down aperture. Usually the middle range will get you the sharpest images, like f/8. - Bobby
Yes, the Tamron 35-150mm f/2.8-4 Di VC OSD Lens for Canon can be adapted to the Canon EOS R with the Canon Control Ring Mount Adapter EF-EOS R , B&H # CAMAEFRFCR in order to shoot portraits/headshots. bhpho.to/2p9fLeL
I have both a white and black project boards that I use as reflectors/flags. Very cheap and work very well. Grab two white ones and attach them together with some gaffers tape along one side. Then you can use it as a mini vflat. The black card I use for curved surfaces to kill some highlights and make the curve more accentuated.
Great info! I just did a product shoot for a client (jewelry) that went south in a HUGE way because she didn't give me any info on dimensions or specifics on her needs for her website, and when I texted her to get the details, she thought I was bugging her... and she ended up not paying me for what I did. Totally unprofessional on her part, but I ended up eating a $500 shoot. I could sue her, but then I'd end up alienating the client and the person who recommended me; it's not worth going there. I learned a lot, but it cost me $500! Thanks for sharing this info. It wouldn't have made a difference on my shoot, but it helps in figuring future shoots, and I appreciate B&H's commitment to helping us all get better.
Hello Sir, I am searching for camera and lens setup for micro component product photography. The products are in the size of 2mm x 2mm to 20mm. Can you please suggest me the camera setup for this purpose?
One of our photo experts can help with that. Email what you are looking for to sales@bhphoto.com and one of our experts will be able to help you pick out the right set up for you.
"With continous lighting , ...... you need to switch off any ambient light in the room....", Finally, I got this answer in this video --- searched multiple books & sites, trying to find out if I needed additional light Behind the camera or in the room, and couldn't find the answer. Just didn't make sense to me to "work in the dark", so I kept other (same temp) lights on while working with 2-3 large softboxes, & kept getting undesirable results. Off to change that now. Thank you!!
Learn how to do it with a speedlight and a cheap shoot-through umbrella or softbox instead of a more expensive and weaker continuous light and you'll be able to apply that to taking pictures of people and things larger than wristwatches as well. This is particularly true given that digital cameras and speedlights let you quickly dial in manual settings with only a little trial-and-error if needed.
Hoping to take some pictures of my soaps to put on my website! I'm not a pro at photography by a long shot so I appreciate you giving the "specs" as a guideline.
Hello guys really nice video🙂, My RU-vid channel is about Toymodel photography like you said 4:52 I use only a simple lamp and flash lights for lighting.👍👍
Hello guys really nice video🙂, My RU-vid channel is about Toymodel photography like you said at 4:56 I use only a simple lamp and flash lights for lighting.👍👍
how do you shot flat object, such as mask ? they have no medium it's just flat. if you were to do it how would you shoot a mask as your product photography : )
It would be helpful to shoot the mask while fitted to a form, which can be made of foam or plaster. This would at least be able to show the full shape of the mask when in use.
Your product photography is very beautiful but if you have any editing work in photoshop you can definitely work with us we are professional photo editing company
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to find ways of taking pictures of my retro computer parts for Instagram. I have realized I'm not as creative as I thought! @sucranet
Useful information. I don't know why so many content providers think that background noise, what some people would call music, is needed to open the viewer's ears. Focusing on your voice would be much easier without the background distraction. I've been around education for awhile, and I have yet to encounter an instructor who thinks that what they have to say is not enough to hold their audience's attention. You might want to reconsider what you think is important. And if you are having trouble reading this, put on some music and try again.
He shooing at F18? He must not like sharp images. That lenses sweet spot is around F8 and loses sharpness drastically moving to higher fstops. Shouldn't a B&H photographer know this? B&H trying to make you burn your house down using paper towels as defuser. WTF is wrong with this company? Plus, who would lay a nice watch on rocks just for it to get scratched up. I cant remember the last time I was mountain climbing and found a watch laying nicely on a pile of rocks and made me think of a watch advert.
I own a Nikon D5300 and I tried to record a video. Then I tried to downloaded into my iPhone from the Nikon app but there was no video to download it just showed an X. I don’t know if you know anything about this? What could have happened or what do I need to do? Thanks
Not mentioned but essential: Making sure to minimize dust, grease, smudges, crooked labels, etc. when shooting, to reduce the amount of artificial clean-up done in post. Small items shot close-up are surprisingly prone to dust and other contamination.
Prolly could have done the same thing with a 2019 or later smart phone tbh. I'm more interested in the background stuff and I guess the lighting tricks a little
All you need to trick your friends into thinking you shot at a professional studio is a couple of rocks, a small foldout tabele, and 10K worth of photography gear :P
Really good video, I am really trying things out now since lockdown will continue and even if the photos might not be as good as the ones from a professional photographer I am looking forward to keep on learning and to try things out!
I think many photographers don’t get an opportunity to work in a photo studio or even have space to own such equipments. Hence, these videos are very helpful insights for us to gain knowledge.
Loved the video -- but what still grinds my gears is how those lights can be fixed in f stops...grr, cannot afford these lights. But on the flip side I have created diffuser with box lids (cut out in the middle) and parchment paper in the middle--- window light and come additional continuous light worked out quite well. At this point the lens was a 135mm (all I had at the time) aimed at a watch among rocks from an aquarium set up and my camera settings were almost identical to the ones for continuous light in this video. I got really close to the quality in this vid -- really close. Will keep practicing.
