Hey folks, I missed discussing the lack of need on that restrictor bar. It's not needed. It's only recommended if, after your chair setup looks like the one in the photo, where the mount was the farthest aft in relation to your chair. If so, the additional leverage at that configuration has the potential of damaging the mount or chair. Skil and I didn't need it.
This is a cracking presentation chaps. Clean, structured, clean, tidy, clean, informative... did I mention clean! Tankie's review are great but my god! The man needs a house keeper!
I'm just happy winwing put the twist grip in the right spot. I own a lot of virpil gear and love it and their collective was going to be an auto-buy from me, but as a former real life helicopter pilot I was so disappointed that they put their twist grip on their base instead of the grip which forced it it be halfway down the collective arm effectively making it useless...
Stiction Fix: Some of the other reviewers complained about an initial stickiness or stiction in raising and lowering the collective. Here's the fix. "A friction system, just like new brakes requires a "wearing in" process. Both parts have microscopic peaks and valleys that should be worn down progressively until both surfaces have maximum level-contact throughout the range of travel. To do so, start with light friction and move the collective up and down repeatedly. Slowly increase the friction until things are smooth enough to suit the required tension without binding." I'm updating this comment because one self-proclaimed expert has informed people to add nyogel to the friction system. If you follow that advice, there is a high probability that you'll end up stripping the aluminum threads from the steal set-screw, rendering your collective useless. I love gamers, everyone with a keyboard is an expert.
Lovely work guys. It’s worth noting that real helicopters do have a friction lock on the collective, and it’s to hold it down!! You turn off the friction totally to fly! Helicopters have symmetrical blades so lift is always through the 1/4 chord point. There is no up or down forces and it should move smoothly and not fall down. Some counter weight or spring support may be a better idea? My real flying is very limited to an hour on a S300 but it was good fun and hovering and transitions were easy!
Thanks guys helped me to buy one & as you say I can't fly Helis without any more . Just a natural way to fly up & down . Only problem is winwing have discontinued this now . Hope for all the others out they add a new collective to the products .
The cons I see: 1) No friction lock on the throttle 2) No counterweight to prevent the thing from dropping unless you tighten the friction hard enough (In Germany we say "nach fest kommt ab") 3) I can only imagine the extra buttons on the bottom side might be hard to reach from a normal grip Just a personal one: The price. But that's just me crying in an empty wallet. The quality seems to be good and I love how they thought of things like where the second cable goes or the nut on the cable connector inside the grip extension. The thing probably is worth that cash if you have a complete fixed wing setup already and want to upgrade with a collective. For someone who needs to get a stick and pedals as well this is going to be the most expensive part easily.
I agree on the friction lock only because I face-planted in the gazelle when I accidentally rolled off the throttle. I disagree on the counterweight, because on everything I flew, there was lots of up-travel needed before enough lift was created to get airborne. I had mine too tight. Once I loosened it as Skil described and the stiffness was lessened it felt much smoother, especially during transition from forward flight to hover. Yes, it's a very expensive hobby. But less than motorcycles, boats, and other hobby stuff.
+GrimReapersAtomic *Sadly, both WinWinG® and VIRPIL® neglected the "Clutch" grip on their respective collective arms.* OKB Nikolaija Il'ycha Kamova (RUS) specified a handgrip on the collective arm as an arm-brake release on the Engineering Bureau's coaxial-rotor models (including but not limited to the Ka-25/27/28/31/32/40/62/126/226 parallel-seat utility birds, -50 attack helo, and -52 attack/observation helo).
Many thanks to you both for your presentations , in this video ,,you have helped me too decide how I wish to go forward in purchasing a "collective control" for Helo flying !!! A well thought and presented Video !!! Greets from an Old soldier of the Cold war living in Germany ;)
10:32 "Collective Brake - Assign Altitude Lever" refers to a single input. It's hard to see in this picture but it's a lever on the underside of the throttle that isn't replicated by the Winwing. It's primarily used to tell the Ka-50's autopilot to hold your current altitude. The twist throttle on the Winwing seems to be there out of consideration for the throttle position for other helicopters. The collective is still referred to as the collective.
Regarding the software PC configuration, can I leave my TM Warthog throttle hooked up while I use a Winwing collective? It would be nice not to unhook stuff when swapping between helos and jets in DCS.
Is there any advantage to using the ka50 base rather than the f18 one? I mainly fly helos so want the best setup for that, but I'd prefer to get the fa18 base if there is no disadvantage so I can swap the grips and use it as a throttle when needed. Btw how long does it take to switch the grips? Thanks
How hard would it be to switch back and forth between this and plane throttles? I'm thinking probably pretty tough given you have to swap out the one throttle mount or whatever. Maybe leave that one installed and use the other throttle for both plane engines? Dunno...think there's a simple way to go back and forth without completely undoing and redoing the whole thing?
If you bought the collective along with the Orion throttle base, it'd likely take you about 4-6 minutes to swap them out. There's no quick disconnect, so you'd have to unscrew/swap/rescrew the throttle-plugged parts.
@@rmp5s Yup, that time estimate would include unplugging the Orion base first, do the swap, plug it back in, wait for the Windows pings to indicate the devices have re-registered as active, before your restart DCS.
So I bough the k50 stick, but when trying to setup in DCS. It doesn’t work fine. The collective is not been recognized for the up or down motion. Also if I assign an axel, the DCS doesn’t recognize idle or full collective up. Any idea how I can fix this problem Cap?
I am trying to get a ka50 collective to finish my project. I only fly helicopters. Winning is out of stock for 7 months now, I have already bought winning pedals stick and base so I am commited. Can you help? It would be greatle appreciared.😎🇨🇦
Thank you for the video comment. Learning new software in a rush wasn't ideal. Mistakes were made. I'm pretty sure it's the lowest priced collective available atm, but I could be wrong.
I got my ww collective setup done. However, I can't get the Gemini RxRy to reach 65535 or 0 (min and max axis) in SimAppPro after calibration. This has resulted to inadequate lift/power in DCS, black shark can't take off. May I ask for some guidance?
Hi Steven, the metal mounting block reduces the range of movement at each end of its travel. You need to calibrate it after you've assembled it. Cycle the range about 3 times should do it.
Would love to own one. Yet it's almost impossible to get one in Europe. Shipping it to Europe makes it way to expensive : postage fees, custom fees, taxes
Can we get a review 6months down the road please? I have a Winwing Orion HOTAS. The ORION is complete shit. Four months after buying it the USB connection is pushed out of the housing , the Button 14 (4 toggle switch )has been replaced twice and the throttle itself is losing it's friction.
@@SmoocheeWallace I KNOW!!! I would have loved that too, but I'm told it is not going to happen.I can tell you that I've been able to bind everything that's needed on the collective and the new F-16EX stick. I had buttons left over.
What can I say, I wasnt sure about the look of the mechanism. However, once I used it I found that the collective moves up and down and feels very good. The choice is always yours, the more gear/manufacturers that put their product in the ring gives us all more choice, which can only be a good thing.
Excellent video. BUT There is one thing annoying me which has nothing to do with the hardware you are showing. You are not the only one to do that in DCS from what I saw. As an helicopter pilot in the real life myself, I don't get why you lift the gear while in the ground effect. I have been trained to deal with failures during landing or take off on 1 engine heli or 2 engines heli... And lifting the gear in the ground effect is like putting a round in a gun pistol pointed on your head. In case of emergency or engine failure IGE, what do you do ? You crash ? You could have just landed with your gear down... Just saying. Cheers boys
So 500-700USD and I’ve got to assemble it myself? I’ll stick to my thrustmaster for now. Maybe if the price drops a few hundred bucks I’d consider this.
In the end, it's the consumer who decides to buy anything they think is useful or perceive it's necessary. RU-vid is making businessmen out of everybody who uploads vids. Look at angryjoe show. It was grassroots but now it serves masters. Boring at best.
I don't hate their videos, they've become better and more useful as the years have passed but, yeah, making their WinWing "review" videos the only videos they publish without a WinWing ad at the front is a bad look. Does more harm than good, I think. Looks like something shifty is going on.
@@AdmiralQuality if you bought a a magazine that had ads for coke and then an article about why coke is better than Pepsi, you probably wouldn’t trust anything they had to say.
