If you continue to drag the tip of the soldering iron until it is fully off of the IC instead of pulling it away from the IC you can prevent bridging from occurring at the last couple pins like it did at 1:22, 2:07, 2:25, 3:14, ect. The trick is to keep moving at a uniform and steady speed until you break contact with the final pin.
that's probably so he doesn't accidently pull the soldering tip into another component next to the IC, pulling out from the last pins is more controlled
@@black.iczelion That was my initial thought as well. I'll probably make some mistakes along my repair and actually seeing how to handle this could save me a lot of trouble 👍
This is so satisfying to watch. I was a welder in the Navy years ago and thought soldering would be too small scale/precision work for me. I think I'll be buying a soldering iron now.
I've hand soldered boards that had SMT parts with pitches as fine as 0.8mm - assembled the first go of prototype boards - all worked properly the first time. One thing that I did, on larger QFPs, was to tack solder the corner pins to keep the part from shifting when soldering the main body. Also works for PLCC components.
Nice job, soldering. Good use of flux. Nice the way you keep it both clean and fluxed. Lotta skill there. I hate watching videos when they use poor soldering skills. You're excellent.
Nice. Getting a little refresher on some soldering techniques for a possible new job. I've done a lot of aerospace work... some pretty challenging and fun stuff.
Well this is pretty easy, what he dosent tell is how to pin the ic in place before he start so it wont move when you solder it for those kind of ic, and what kind of tin and flux you use and also the temperature of you iron !! If this is a solder training well you miss too much thing for the beginner... just saying
We use two brands of flux: AMtech, or ErSa, they're pretty good. I usually set iron temperature between 360-380 degree Celsius. You have to place the IC manually, after You paste some flux on the surface. This tip is like a spoon, it has a little arc, or curve. Actually, You don't need this special tip, You can do this with a simple soldering tip. Tin: we use the brand "Stannol" diameter=0,8mm, Sn60Pb40. I hope I could help You.
@@peterporkolab2800 Pin that in the top of the page, for the beginner and peoples who want to learn how to do it well without damaging any parts !! Me i am already a certified tech i just said my opinion.
Круто! Глобализация - это хорошо, все люди, во всем мире, между собой могут делиться своими мыслями и опытом, государственные границы теперь не имеют роли в передаче информации, невероятное 30 лет назад и повседневное сегодня!
Nice work! 👍🏼 Back in the 386 Heyday when I worked at Intel, the 25-mil PQFP was being developed. All the pads were printed with solder paste, the PQFP was placed, then IR or vapor phase solder reflow finished the job...sometimes with those annoying solder bridges to deal with. 🤦🏻♂️ I noticed that every time you made your solder pass, the last three leads always bridged and needed rework. I wonder if having a fine-thread solder wick at the end of-and and in-line with-your pass would eliminate that bridging tendency. Wouldn’t need any rework that way! 😀
Watching you do an excellent job is great. But what can I learn from it? You are not explaining: 1) solder composition 2) solder temperature 3) cleaning solution 4) pen cleaning solution 5) how to keep the IC from moving for the first soldering 6) final cleaning material 7) how to get that solder tip shape? Did you sand it that way? Did you buy that solder tip?
3 isopropyl alcohol aka isopropanol. 4 it's a flux pen and dispenses liquid flux. There are many types of liquid and paste flux but I'm not experienced enough to make a recommendation. 7 you buy the solder tip. This shape is called a bevel tip.
1. Not sure, probably a common type would do. 2. Use recommended temp for your solder. 3. Isopropyl alcohol 4. Pen is not cleaning. Pen is a flux pen. 5. If you look closely at 1:38, you'll see that the three sides in the back have a few legs soldered already. That's how he keeps them from moving 6. Isopropyl alcohol again to dissolve and clean the flux. 7. It's a pre-purchased tip, like someone said already, beveled tip.
Good eye sight is of essence. I'm 61 and can't do anything without glasses nowadays. Looking glasses usually are too weak for me, so I have found a neat solution. A store nearby sells reading glasses for the equivalent of $2. I'm using three glasses that I have taped together, on top of each other. Two +3 and one +2.5, that is around 9. The advantage is cheapness and that the "looking glass" always is directed to the right spot in front of my face. It's almost like having a microscope on the tip of the nose.
You should just get a 10x jeweler’s loupe. That’s what MY 61-year-old eyes would want. Sure, a nice 25X optical comparitor would be nice but the cost...the weight...the space you’d need! 😬😄
@@schautamatic I think you don't know what you're talking about. I own a Bausch and Lomb 10x jeweler loupe, it's fantastic but has very near focal plane distance. You cannot use that to solder unless you want to solder something on the tip of your nose. Lol.
Great video. I have a question, if there is a chip whose pins only available from the bottom and I extend the size of the pad on the PCB to reduce the difficulty of soldering, is this still consider doable by hands? Or I have to order assembly from the factoty?
Ah. A fellow professional. I appreciate your video; I'm teaching th/smd and couldn't make it in person today for my students, so thank you for demonstrating drag and dapple (for corrections) so they have a reference. I would offer this for the final pins: when you see wetting on the final pin, stop and drag down the leads and cut away at 30 degrees out while rolling your reservoir tip under to suck up the excess solder. It's just a sec to hit it again, ik; it's just those little things that make it more satisfying though, imo. You feel the same way too, right?
Если я правильно понял, то вы написали это с сарказмом. Если так, то мне жаль, что смысл обучающих (или в данном случае больше рекламных) роликов Вам не понятен. Также Вам видимо никогда не приходилось иметь дело с микросхемами с шагом выводов 0,5 мм, впрочем как и с пайкой вообще
very nice technique. May I ask the part number for the Weller tip you are using on the iron. Also what temperature do you have it set too? What solder and flux are you using? One thing is for sure. That's decent solder and not the unleaded clumpy rubbish.
