Hi I hope you can help me out here: I've been using my dfgt for about 3 weeks, and I noticed that after some play the wheel weight has seemed to disappear. I have ffb and etc, but neither game settings neither profiler settings will affect wheel weight. Another strange thing is that I can't even turn off force feedback. This is for f1 2019 pc2 and so on. If you could help I'd be grateful! Thanks!
Sorry Chris - as I know this seems like I'm just palming you off - but I had never had that problem or heard of this one before. I wouldn't know what to do in this case either. My only suggestion as always in these cases, is trying to find if there is a dedicated LDFGT FORUM on the Logitech Website. As you really need someone who might have had that problem and then worked out how to solve it. I shall pin your request to the top, in case another DFGT USER knows the answer... Good Luck.
Sorry to hear that, Chris - as I didn't know if there was one or not. I just know that I've solved random pc problems before, by seeing if there was a forum that had the answer. I know it's not what you want to hear, but most of the time I have NOT joined the actual forum I need --- but simply tried to type into Google, the question closest to the problem I'm having, and then I find the answer from a forum it finds. So unless someone can help with the "pinned" message hear, that might be your last resort?
@@SingleRacerSVR Anyway I figured out it was a heating problem, my other question would be if a rotation lock can be set on the dfgt. So not only ingame, but also the wheel doesn't go past a specific degree of rotation
That's totally correct Chris. It's a little confusing to explain, but given the rule that you need to set BOTH the DFGT Software and the Sim to set "Speed Sensitivity" to 100. And you ALSO then match the rotation settings in both. So in my case it would be set to both 240 rotation in both Software & the Sim - or if it was SimRacing604 using a DFGT, he would set it both at 540 in Software & Sim. Then this doesn't seem to affect it at very high speeds, as you never will be able to go that fast around the tightest corners. But on a hairpin, you will find that the wheel will only turn to a particular point, and then nothing will happen to the wheel in the Sim after that point (it just won't turn any more), after that. But in all my racing, I found that this only usually happens if you were going too fast anyway, then say you came off track, and you had to make violent corrections, and you would have no steering left after a particular point - but you could argue that THAT is why most people use the standard 900 wheel rotation. I just personally never liked it. P.S. There must be something in the way a Logitech DFGT uses it's software - cos as soon as I went to the G29 - I could actually LEAVE the wheel set to 900 in it's own software - and just change it in the Sim. But it's my understanding that maybe the LDFGT is not a "true" 900 rotation wheel anyway?
I have the LDFGT as well. But I use immersion. Not sure why you would use raw. It's in the description too. With raw, the game does not calculate all the different forces you feel. Immersion is exactly that. Designed to be the most realistic feel you will get. And it is. When I switched to immersion from informative, I had to relearn how to drive. I've tried all settings and jackspade files. Immersion is the best setting. Think about it as difficulty, immersion being the hardest setting and raw being the easiest. It's the way the game was set up and you're going about it all wrong.
Great and informative vid sir. You are spot on btw, FFB is totally a personal thing and your equipment plays a big part in what settings get set to where. I like that you are a tester of this stuff, i my self do alot of testing just dont normally do vids on it. Interesting that the 50% did not feel well for your setup, must come down to pedals and what you like for the feel. Great vid as always sir. Hope this helps people. Ps: i have never tried any of these extra files for FFB i still run stock files, mayb ill tweak with this at a later date
Thankyou for subscribing Hugo, and for letting me know of the update to the ULTIMATE Custom FFB 2.1. I shall pin this to the top so everyone can see/read it, but I will also make sure I tell everyone, at the beginning of my next PC2 Hotlap Video as well. CHEERS!!! Hugo.
Great to hear that Kerry - and thanks for the feedback. But I'll checking my rear-vision mirror a bit more often now, just in case you come flying past me ; )))
Hiya SR Great vid, I'm always tweaking my FFB so these types of videos are really useful and appreciated. Maybe i can give you another tip to add to your tips - Are you aware of the SNIPPIT tool within windows ?. You can find it by typing in SNIPPIT in your search box and then you can pin it to your taskbar. The tool lets you grab areas of your screen and save that area/snippit as a picture which you can then save as a file in whichever folder you wish. I just thought maybe this will help cut out the middle man and have to go into Paint. Anyway again great vid and keep up the great work.
No I didn't Franky - and thanks for this awesome tip - I shall actually PIN this comment to the top, so others that might not know about it, can learn this trick too... Cheers Franky Red ; )))
I have a TS-PC Racer, and I agree the Ultimate FFB settings are an "improvement", but the physics & FFB in PC2 are still weird and vary from car to car. It's such a shame because the cars and tracks look gorgeous in VR. I can jump into any car (not including poorly done mods) in AC or R3E and without any adjustments to the game's FFB and the cars all feel great. But even with this improved FFB file, I still feel it necessary to tweak (trial & error) the master FFB settings depending on what car I'm driving in PC2, and some cars just never feel right. So many cars have this pronounced notch feeling in the center of the wheel travel with rigid boundaries left or right that feels completely unnatural and ruins the experience. In AC, I feel the tires grip the road and start to slip when at the limit, but in PC2 it never feels like the tires are gripping. Just a continuum of slippage from 1%~100%, which again feels unnatural. Tried some modern GT3 racing at COTA the last a few weekends ago during the actual COTA race. Those cars on PC2 feel awful. Basically threw up in my mouth and just turned it off. At this point, I've just resigned to limit my use of PC2 to the few cars that I can actually get feeling close. I too like the vintage stuff. So far my favorite car in PC2 is the Lotus 49. I love racing on the historic tracks. BTW, you really need to get some pedals with a clutch to enjoy driving the vintage stuff. Need to do some heel-toe man!!
Very VERY good advise bbcoltrane & thanks for your input. What you just described here, is probably exactly why I never showed off PC2 at all in the past (bar a hand full of Lotus 49 type vids). It's such a shame too, as this game could be the bees-knees, if you could just feel a bit more weight or tire-slide than it currently gives you.
@@SingleRacerSVR I did get some help from the video. I found that it made the ffb feel a little to light. It helped with snap oversteer a bit with the insanely boosted 80's turbos though. It all comes down to personal preference and just playing for awhile though. I play with authentic aids but will never use stability control. One thing. Should I change my steering ratio from 900° to something else to realistically map say a 70's f1 car?
@@justin43098 I think so. I am taking a little (holiday) break right now, but did want to do a video on this down the track, as I no longer have "just one" setting based on all the different cars in the (any) sim. My suggestion is to try (roughly around 1020 for a very loose normal car feel - then maybe around the 840 & 480 settings that help tighten up the steering for cars that need it the most, like the F1 cars etc. Good Luck
