Project E30 / Ep. 19 / In-Car Rear Subframe Bushing Replacement 

True, but if you're going to bother with that might as well drop it and replace the trailing arms and dif bushings.

Thank you for the kind comment!

Oh man, I can see it now! Happy new year to you too!

Febi is no longer OEM parts supplier. Thier new stuff is all cheap Chinese tat and is no good. I know this first hand. It's up to you but there's no way febi parts will ever find there way on my beemers

There's some good stuff in that RU-vid Audio Library. The artists who create them and then make them available for free are the real MVPs.

playlistforkids had this issue my self but was able to drop subframe enough to run an all thread threw the center of the pitman arm and put large washers and a nut on the other end then pull it out without the 2 jaw

Required some heat though

Thanks Greg! The E46 definitely has a more "advanced" design compared to the E30.

@@PracticalEnthusiast Yes but I'm not totally convinced that it's necessarily a better one. (Or maybe it's a combination). From what I've been learning and gathering from those that have been swapping engines with chassis and then what it takes to make them work, the combination of the S54 from the E46 M3 and the E30 chassis (then tooled a little more with some configuration of E36 steering columns I think and a few other smaller changes) can produce one of the most satisfying and exciting cars for the N/A Manual car scene. I have my own fantasies LOL but not the resources or equipment to execute such an endeavor. If you want to check into a reasonably trust worthy test of this type of set up check out Matt Farah on the Smoking Tire doing so I'll grab the link for you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hZzTg1GoOxo.html

How did you manage getting that old bushing out?

@@slowgan325 ended up cutting them out with a reciprocating saw

Thanks! The fluid I'm using to install the bushings is called silicone lubricant. Something like this: www.amazon.com/dp/B0019LV3GO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_fTkoCb75ME3GW

There are "bumps" in the subframe bushing holes that align with slots in the bushings so they can only go in one way.

Yes, it raised it approximately 10mm. Not a huge change, but it stopped the car from hitting the bumpstops on every bump! I'll probably just put in different springs in the future though.

Sorry, I don't follow. How do you see the M14 rod pulling the bushing from the subframe? You can't put a nut on top of the rod (inside the car) and have it push the bushing out because the hole that goes into the car is just big enough for the rod.

@@PracticalEnthusiast thanks for the quick reply. I didn't know the hole was just big enough for the m14 rod. There aren't any pics of the inside part of the job online. I was hoping to draw out the bushing just using the m14 rod and pitman puller because i thought there was room for a washer or something. Thanks for making your videos. They're very helpful.

@@jafetreveles4564 I'm glad you like the videos! Thanks for watching. Unfortunately I don't think you'll have success going from the top :( if there had been enough room up there I would have used a punch/hammer combo to drive out the remainder of the bushing instead of using the Dremel.

Putting in a shim will increase the spring preload, which in turn will make it marginally stiffer. Probably not enough to notice though.

@@PracticalEnthusiast i just installed kyb shocks with eibach pro kit springs in my e30, the rear sits lower than the front, its my daily car, do you recommend the condor speed spring spacers?

Thanks! The 2 jaw puller I used was a 6 inch. You might be able to get a 4 inch one to work but it would be pushing it. The pitman arm puller had a 1-5/16 inch opening before I modified it. Check the video description for a link to the exact one I used.

Yeahh thank you very much..

I'm sure the day will come at some point!

Most everything is from the RU-vid Audio library. Check it out, it's free!

Poly bushings = more vibration, annoying in a daily driver

Really Happenings not unless you get "soft" poly, like 85a durometer (which are the most popular). They'll last longer than rubber too, and you can grease em up well and they won't squeak. I would agree if you said poly bushings on driveline areas such as motor or diff mounts, but poly suspension bushings are very livable. Not talking from experience, but I am planning to get them in the future. 😉

1. I am speaking from experience, fwd Volvo front subframe bushings. 2. Rear subframes ARE driveline components on rwd cars, while also obv supporting the susp. I would agree if the frame in question carries suspension only.

Really Happenings hmm interesting. Where are those front subframe bushings on your volvo? Do you have rubber motor mounts? Seems to me that for the e30, if you get rear soft poly suspension bushings and a rubber diff mount, you rly won't get noticeable vibrations. I'll definitely by trying this tho.

It was the cost-to-benefit factor that led to the rubber bushing choice. I'm not tracking the car, it's purely for street use. I actually prefer a small amount of subframe deflection to help dampen road noise. Rubber bushings are relatively cheap and poly bushings are not. Time is also a cost factor. Poly bushing installation requires the subframe to be completely removed. Rubber bushings, as can be seen in this video, can be installed in an afternoon. Ultimately, rubber bushings were a cost-conscious method of fixing what was wrong with the car. Thanks for watching!

Might have to do that!

@@PracticalEnthusiast ebay $20, I have three, "changed my life" so to speak