I had a 1969 gt when I was 19 I am now 70 .I had to sell her to buy a Family car ,69 fiat 124 coup, but still have a soft spot for my gt. my wife named it the bullet in a poem that decried the time I spent on the car, she was red.I do enjoy watching your passion with yours . jeff
Thanks Jeff for nice comment. I see quite often in my comments, that people owned a GT in the past, and had to let it go because of family needs. Since GT is such a unique car, it is easy to believe that it will be remembered as a "good old days". Thanks for follow !!
Thank you very much for views and comments !! Best part of this project is regular viewers that keeps coming back to my channel.. I truly appreciate that...
Im Video ging alles schnell. In der Praxis nimmt das Messen die meiste Zeit in Anspruch. Es war wieder bewundernswert. Viel Gesundheit und Vernunft für das neue Jahr und alles wird gut. Grüße aus Haarlem. In the video it all happened quickly. In practice, measuring takes up most of the time. It was worthy of admiration again. A lot of health and sanity for the new year, and everything will be fine. Greetings from Haarlem.
Nochmals vielen Dank für den Kommentar. Ja, das Video zeigt 10 % der Arbeit, das meiste passiert außerhalb des Videos. Und die Planung selbst nimmt viel Zeit in Anspruch. Wenn es keine Erfahrung gibt..
Seeing your work and a GT chassis down to its' bones really makes me appreciate the work Opel'a design team made to build this car, even though it's not perfect.
Brother I can hardly wait for the metal work to be done! And I have been watching the summarized version of the work!! 577 hours so far. In Canada we have a saying " You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear." Loosely translated, "Once a piece of junk always a piece of junk." You are proving that old saying a lie. Keep the faith, don't give up.
Thanks for the comment. I estimated at the beginning of the project (well, right after the actual magnitude of metal work was obvious) that it will take about 2000 hour to get this ready. I am somewhat on schedule I would say...There are still LOT OF metal work episodes coming up.. And by far, I am already winning this game, so no intention to give up now !!!
@@GT1900garage You definitely saved that Opel GT from ending up scrap metal. I love how meticulous you are with the repairs. Looking forward to the next video.
I just finished binge watching all 20 episodes after getting recommendation a few days ago. Great work and very inspiring! I have a Volvo 1800ES that needs a similar amount of rust repair. I hope to get started on it within a few years.
Welcome aboard! Say thank to the friend who recommended. I appreciate! Oh, the "Saint" Volvo was one of the options that I considered when looking for a project.. Any plans to document the work online??
@@GT1900garage I plane to document the process. Whether or not that will be in video or just with pictures remains to be seen. As I'm sure you know, filming adds another layer of complexity and time commitment to a project.
I'm am amazed at not only at the skill but the dedication. My GT is not in as rough a shape as yours, but I'm still worried about my ability level the time and tooling. GOD bless and keep on keepin on.
Thanks for the comment. This is my learning process as well...I think that - Time can be arranged - Tools are available if willing to invest - Ability increase if you are ready invest in two above
Thanks for view. I have improved the tooling during this project. Gradually, and trying to keep my eye open in swap meetings....Usually the best (affordable) tools are usually old....
Loving your ingenuity and tenacity in the face of sooo much rust. I hope you're having a nice Christmas break. I can't wait to see your next video! Keep up the good work! 👏🏻
Thanks for the comment ! well I am in the middle of Mount Everest, half way up... So no other option but to put all in and finish this car. And thanks, I did have a great holiday break...
Another Great video! That car sure has some weird rust. My opel gts I don't think are rusty at the air channel above the rear window. But I have heard of that rust before. And the rust on the side of the car was crazy! But man you are getting stuff done! Keep it up!
Thanks Sam. Yep, definitely some weird spots. But the roof ventilation is usually (what I have seen) quite rusty. This one also did look ok, but was done with bondo...
Thanks for the comment. Some see this to be too detailed and hence boring. But this is how I like to document the process.. I ensure you, that since the car is still in this shape, there are plenty of episodes to come...
There's nothing like doing the right way, and having the ability and foresight to do it. GT's aren't rare, but it's rare to see a good one anymore. Highly underrated.
100% agree.. And seeing all the potential rust traps this car holds - I think the number of completely rust free GT:s are surprisingly small... Thanks for the comment and views !!
I have to admire your commitment to the work. You must give a heavy sigh sometimes when you come across new rust! And Talking of Admiration I do admire your garage and tools. I am working on my Maserati with nowhere near as much space or tools. Ok, ok I will admit I am bit jealous!
Thanks for the comment. Honestly ? I have gave all my "sighs" long time ago. Nothing will surprise me anymore... You have a Maserati project? HOW COME your youtube channel does not have any videos of Maserati ?? 😂😂 I am happy with how the garage turned out...I used to work in a 1/4 of a size (uninsulated) shed before I teared it down and build this....
Hi It depends which model of Maserati you have,in my case its a 4200 Cambiocorsa spyder and there are a few videos on youtube,my car is a 2003 so not technically a classic although i do go to club shows as it quite a rare car. my problem is getting parts as in the case of the Water/oil pump Maserati do not make them anymore,However as the car has a Ferrari derived engine a Water/oil pump from a F430 is the same, and also the odd Alfa part sometimes fits!@@GT1900garage
Thanks for the comment. Yes, Manta was one of my dream cars back in 80's...Or actually in early 90's...I was pro 70's already back then....GT was a awesome back then too, but was very rare in Finland...
Thanks for the comment. I try to add some additional cinematography angles this video diary to make it more vivid. Some viewers like it, some don't.... But thanks for noticing these small details...
Brilliant video, right from the beginning. The music builds up the tense, then bam - some stop motion animatons and i‘m already smiling. After this firework we see more holes in the Opel than good old moon has craters. And i‘m like, will this ever come to an end ? But you keep your head down and eliminate one rust nest after the other. This is all routine, but on a boss level. Oh, i almost forget the water flow demonstration. This came of out nowhere. Didńt expect that. Awesome. Never seen anything like that in a video about car restauration. What a highlight. Every viewer instantly understands the issue. Way of water 😅 And again the small details. Keep the workshop tidy and collect all the debris. Love it. Again Perfect Entertainment. Very well done 👍🏻
Huge thanks for the comment. Yes..Hmm...There are lot of different ways to illustrate project for audience. Some channels are narrated thoroughly, some are just slide shows of the progress. As a non native English speaker, I was not ready for the effort of trying to explain ever step verbally, so I decided to do different approach. I choose to go to the silent cinematography path, and try to visualize the agony and the joy of the project. Especially, when I noticed that this car is almost beyond repairable - actually made me decide to put more attention to the videos too. For me the documenting process is also a escape room from the sheet metal work, which can be very frustrating occasionally. If I am fed up with welding, I can always invent some new camera angles etc...Music is very limited (due to royalty free library), but I always spend lot of time to pick music for the mood, and then edit the video accordingly. I know there are lot of people who hate "just music videos", but this is my niche, and comments like this really do matter, because they show the appreciation from the audience...Stay along til the bitter end of the project.. Merry Christmas !
Sounds like you´re on a journey but you don´t know the final destination. Maybe you´ll end up with a fully restored GT but that´s not that important anymore. Instead you´ll have discovered how to express yourself as a video artist. Suddenly Doris Day comes to my mind, singing "que sera". Whatever will be. Anyway, i understand and appreciate your motivation and decisions very much. Just keep on with this amazing work. Merry Christmas !@@GT1900garage
Thanks for the comment. Well, video will show only 10% of the process, so it might look easy. What I can tell you, that if I would do this for living, my working pace would not pay my salary.....Unless I charge per hour !!!
Thanks for the sub! And thanks for the comment and views. Stay tuned for the upcoming episodes !!! And yes, I truly think this will bee a pretty darn nice car when ready...
Same here, I MUST use them somehow... I have few options: 1. Create piece of art out of it 2. Some ritual disposal of the shreds (sinking to the bottom the ocean, or shoot it to the space) 3. Send to the seller as a keepsake... 4. Melt them in a forge and create some tool out of them Suggestions welcome !! 😂😂
Thanks for the comment, I agree.. It is a spicy looking little sports car, and this one will get a power plant upgrade. Already found new heart for this gem... More of that in future episodes...
Superb work, as always. It's a pity that you felt that you could not butt weld the dissimilar thicknesses of metal, but it is sensible to recognise one's limitations and the job you have done looks very good. Best wishes.
Thanks for the comment. Yeah, but I'm not too worried about it. Those places, the where nobody will ever see the welds, it is not that important since I am not restoring a historical Ferrari with a known race history. It is an Opel for me to drive. As long as they are strong and solid welds, I'm good. However, like in fender episodes - plates that will be visible, they will be butt welded and flush with original steel...
Ich habe in den 90er Jahren eine "Restauration" mit GFK-Panelen beobachten dürfen. Gruselig, wie rott der GT da schon war. Ich genieße deine Videos und bewundere deine skills.
congratulations for your hard work, the sole point you could improve is the welding. Prepare even better your pieces where they must be joined, then weld slowly spot by spot, let's say every 5 cm before you slowly weld point by point until it is closed. Going always from the thickest metal to the thinner metal avoiding extre heat transferring. This method allows you to put less and less weld into your repair and then you will have not so much to grind. Keep the hreat work and the faith, your car will be amazing
Thanks for the excellent comment. I truly agree that welding is the biggest challenge. I had somewhat 10 meters (give or take) of solid weld line experience before I started with this project. I am experienced enough to realize how far I am from being good welder. ( please see ref : Dunning-Kruger effect). I can do pretty decent weld when material is equal 2mm steel, but anything else is difficult. Especially when there are different materials to be welded together I'm in trouble. Of course, good gear would help the learning process. I do have old (but decent) welding machine, where I see that the torch is actually quite worn out. The gas is CO2 from fire extinguisher, I think proper gas would help. And also the mask is not that good, its a bit too dark. Usually this is then when I finally get excellent weld, and then I remove the mask and noticed that I missed the target... However, the welds are solid, usually overkill. And I dont have the guts to grind it flat...I always leave a thick seam when it wont be visible....
@@GT1900garageсо2 він і у вогнегаснику со2, якщо на вашому mig апараті відсутне плавне регулювання тока (А) і подачи проволоки, то у вас будуть труднощі. Я гадаю у вас апарат на трансформатарах не інвенторного типу..? ... і да, я знаю, що у mig регулюється напруга, а не сила струму)
І щоб не було темно у масці - натягніть на неї ліхтарик, якшо затемнення на масці буде спацьовувати раніше ніж ви почнете зварювати - заклейте ліхтар паперовим скотчем))
Another nice work 👍. The GT was a function follows design so there are many spots illogical but they wouldn´t be that iconic the other way. They are the same league than 356 Porsche and Karmann Ghia (Design and Rust). Stay tuned.
Came across this channel yesterday and I was hooked. Watched them all now. I've enjoyed them very much. Wondering if you have used Wray Schelines shrinking disks. When you get to the outer panels you may find them very helpful. Pro shaper workshop I believe. My mate used them on my 69 Datsun roadster cowl and they are quite something.
Thanks for comment and views !! I am a total novice what comes to sheet metal working, so this is news to me ! I had to google it up, and it surely looks interesting...may have to order it asap... Thanks for the great tip !!
I saw a GT in blue metallic and chrome around 1984/5 in Kentish Town and wanted one, knowing very little about cars general and the Opel GT in particular. I then bought one in 1985/6 and it was rotten. I drove it from Wimbledon to Romford with very dead brakes, the handbrake was necessary to actually stop! I didn’t manage to restore it but loved it anyway until I met a girl and had to sell her. I lost money but still have an affection. Prefer original restored, rather than crazy custom versions. Keep up the great work. Not sure about the colour, I liked the Orange GT-J look, but I’d say a silver would work.
Thanks for the story Paul, Just one question: Why meeting the girl made you sell the GT?? 😂 This will be CLOSE to original, little improvements to the body, but only visual change is wider tires...
I couldn’t afford to buy an apartment without offloading non essential belongings. The guy who bought it for his wife was going to restore it, but I never saw it again. And the cost of a GT and e-type around £3k. I think the GT might have been a few pounds more…
Thanks for the comment. The paint is 2 component epoxy undercoat by Maston. However, the car will be once more sandblasted VERY lightly and fully coated by industrial 2K epoxy. That will last way longer that I will ever live...All the bondo work will be done on top of the industrial epoxy, and hence it will be flexible so it wont crack in use.
Bad choice of words from me, by "bondo" I mean the "best possible filler available". So let me rephrase the sentence, so filler (what ever I eventually use for this) is going to be laid on top of the epoxy paint. Therefore it last longer and is more elastic.
I’m throughly enjoying your journey and agree that, that era of Opels are rust buckets. I’ve had a few Opels in my time and from the 1974 Ascona A to the 2001 Calibra, all were prone to rust. Agreed,the Calibra was better than the Ascona, but I only had for 3 years, but did see starting rust in the sill joints.
Thanks for the comment, I think all the European cars from that era are prone to rust, but GT is on of its kind.. The simpler the structure is, better it is against rust. A good example is Austin/Morris Mini, all the updates from 60-80's made it less and less resistant against rust..
@@GT1900garage mind you, UK cars from the 60’s were largely made with recycled steel that wasn’t pure and therefore basically already rusty when the were being built. It’s a fact that they were difficult to weld on, even when the metal was ground free of any visible rust.
I am old enough to remember the first Opels by Buick the model that appeared in the final death scene of West side Story a dark primerish orange the Mantas which came as sedans and wagons and finally those bad ass looking GTs though I have recognised the work on the BOOT. I recall the steel wheels the pop up headlights For some reason I can’t recall the body colors that they came in I recall a gray or silver but that’s it
Hi You continue to impress, but I must correct you. You say "The Boot - unique rust trap" I say Opel GT 1971 - unique rust trap. Did a Fiat 124 years ago. It was so rusty TIG/MIG wasn't around those days so my choices were spot welds, brazing and solder. Didn't have your skill with metal so fabricated panels. Bends were OK but curves, pleats and depressions were hard to get right and all these were done by hammer and heat. No English wheel, No beader. the 124 was finished and it was good. It was sold to a guy nearby. I still see it from time to time. I made lots of metal working mistakes with this car and learned lots especially when some panels were done multiple times. You amaze me with your ability to fabricate panels without fancy tools and get it right the first time. I still can't do that.. I'll hang around to see you finish this car. Happy Christmas
Thanks for the great comment. I started with no special tools, but I have expanded my collection gradually for better result at my own shop. I still have option to go and use my friend shop/tools and learn some from expert, but on the other hand, availability of tools in your own workshop is quite essential if one try to get something done. This has truly been a learning process for me, Not only the use of tools, but behavior of metal in general. And I can even now see that there has been some learning curve, by looking my earlier episodes. So this is a journey for me. What year Fiat 124 you had? Merry Christmas !!!
It was a 124 coupe 1968. If I remember correctly it had a 1.4 litre motor. It was a manual. I don't know if they did autos. Fiat also had a particular way of diverting water into dead ends. By the time I sold it, I was glad to see it gone but the new owner is nearby and still has it. We still talk and sometimes have a coffee. It has club rego a thing in Australia where the cost of registration is about 20% of normal but you must be a member of a club to drive it and a limited of number of driving days per year. Club regos are good for tragics like me. Have a good Christmas@@GT1900garage
Thanks for the reply. We have a similar system in Finland, but it is not related to club. Basically car can be registered as historic vehicle, and insurance and taxes are VERY low, but again one can drive it only 30 days a year. And even there are no need to document the actual days, the overall tendency is that people do obey that limitation... In order to achieve that status, the "special MOT inspection" must be done by a dedicated expert, who can approve the status. Thanks for the commenting and following my channel, Have a good Holiday season too !!!
Try a piece of copper plate when butt welding different thickness. Copper plate takes away the heat from the thin metal and can stop holes burning through.
Thanks for the tip. I have used aluminium block as a back support when filling the pin holes, but not as a full weld support. And I assume that copper is way better here...
Telling the complet story of the Opel GT. Fact is it has nearly the same suspension of the B-kadett. Nearly I quote. A lot of B-Kadett parts fit, sometime minor dimensional changes are made. This B-Kadett was notorious for its snaking, unsafe roadholding. Conclusion: I you have the looks, you don't automaticaly have the road holding... Many bought the GT but sold it soon after to a new victim(?), and were then cured from it. The same was valid for the glassfibre supercar bodies placed on Beetle chassis. The looks, but behind that it is hollow.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, I am aware of it. There will be some modifications to the suspension, but overall pretty standard set will be in this car. For me, this is not made for highways speeds, or sporty drives on curvy roads. It is mostly for the feel and looks. I have driven B-kadett, so this wont be a cultural shock for me. I will have better tires, better bushings, maybe a tad lower and rigid springs. So I think I will survive.. Heck, I have been driving my 1970 for ten summers, and loved every kilometer...
You know, I think you beat yourself up too much about the quality oy your welding. This is some of the best overall restoration work to be seen on RU-vid. Argon/CO2 mix will definitely give you cleaner welds, and a better quality mask is always good, particularly from the point of being able to see what you are doing better. I am 71 now and ill quite a lot, so I feel I am coming to the end of my welding career, but I always wish I had spent more money and bought an R Tech MIG welder along with one of their masks. Many people on YT are using these and getting superb results. The designers at R Tech have spent years perfecting MIG welders that perform well on thin sheet steel. Some great YT channels for reference are Trev's blog, Yorkshire Car Restoration, Restore It and Dave's Garage. Anyway, looking forward to the next video.
Thanks for the comment. No, I truly think that welding is the number one issue to overcome in this learning journey, I think next step is to get back to drawing board, and start learning to adjust the machine.
Great episode, and your replacement parts making skills are very strong. Very nice work, looking forward to the next video. Also - loose the hour count as at the end you don't know if you should laugh or cry :D (just kidding, it is a nice touch)
Thank you very much! Haha, yes. Many think that running clock is putting pressure for working. Luckily I dont have any particular number in mind, what should be on that screen when the car is ready. I am aware that complete car renovation takes s**t load of time and effort. Effort is difficult to quantify, but at least I will have an answer ready when in the future someone asks, "how long it took?"
Done one BL Mini, and i can concur ! I think they had a some sort of general guidelines for creating structures that absorb moisture and conceal them for oxidizing purposes..
11:22 та немає чогось магічного у зварюванні різно товстих металів - просто тикай у тей що товстіше)) Даремно, що ви не сробували. Вважаю, що це вміння ви опнуєте за годину-півтори) Бажаю успіхів, дякую за відео.
Дякуємо за коментар. Я намагався багато чого навчитися, але поки що не вийшло. Мені ще потрібно багато практики в цьому, а також у зварюванні, але особливо в контролі налаштувань зварювального апарату.
Danke für das tolle Video von euch ich habe schon sehnsüchtig drauf gewartet,ich war leider sehr erschrocken das ihr für den Rostschutz Spredosen nehmen tut ich bin Autolackierer Meister und ich würde immer Rostschutz auf Ep Grund nehmen das ist das beste und ich würde es auch immer mit dem Pinsel auftragen da die Karosserie sandgestrahlt geworden ist und dich den der Druck mit dem Pinsel die Materialien in die Poren einreiben werden, und daduch eine bessere Vernetzung eingegangen wird und immer schön vorher entfetten mit Silikonentfernen. Der beste Rostschutz ist der von der Firma Brunox Epoxy der ist auf 1- K Basis der wird nach der Trocknung schwarz und für Sachen wo es rein laufen soll ist Owatrol end weder zum streichen oder in Spredose so haben wir das in unsrer Lackierer gemacht und damit sind wir immer sehr gut gelaufen und haben nicht Probleme bekommen und zur Abdichtung von Nähte Sikaflex genommen es gibt es auch Produkt die Schleif fähig sind natürlich drauf achten das überlackiert werden kann aber das brauche ich glaube nicht drauf hinweisen so haben wir Oldtimer vor bereitete sol von mir nur als Info sein. Ich wünsche ihnen und auch ihrer Familie eine schöne Weihnacht Zeit und Gesundheit und ich freue mich schon sehr auf das Nest Video von ihnen mit freundlichen Grüßen Marcus Meyer Lackierer Meister Bremen
Danke für den tollen Kommentar. Offenbar meinst du jetzt den roten Rostlack am Innensteg? Dies war eine überlegte Option. Zwischen den Balken gibt es mehrere Milli-Abstände. Wenn also Luftspalte vorhanden sind, bin ich davon überzeugt, dass diese einigermaßen vor Feuchtigkeit geschützt bleiben. Der Grund dafür, dass es jetzt stark verrostet war, war, dass Wasser direkt von der Innenseite des Kotflügels in den Träger eindrang. Nachdem es nun befestigt ist, sollte die Innenseite des Balkens trocken bleiben. Der Grund, warum ich diese Farbe und nicht die normale 2K-Epoxidfarbe verwendet habe, war, dass der zu schweißende Spalt sehr schwer zu löschen war und dass Epoxidharz leicht Feuer fängt. Der rote Lack brennt überhaupt nicht, deshalb habe ich ihn hier ausnahmsweise verwendet. Dieses Auto wird noch einmal leicht sandgestrahlt und mit einem sehr hochwertigen Epoxidharz lackiert. Erst danach erfolgt die Grundierung des Wagens für die Lackierung. So haben wir es auch bei meinem Mini gemacht und er ist seit 13 Jahren rostfrei.
@@GT1900garage Moin das lieb von dir das dich gemeldet hast und damit hast du vollkommen Recht Ep Grund ist nicht so gut wegen schweißen da habe ich nicht drüber nachgedacht bei mir ist das immer so wenn ich eine Spredose sehe ist das für mich immer ein rotes Tuch wir haben früher selbst Spredosen befüllt für Kunden wenn man eine 400 ml Dose hat passt da noch nicht mal 120 ml Lack rein und das ist wegen dem Treibgas nicht mehr möglich sonst sind die einen um die Ohren geflogen, ich finde euer Projekt echt super ich sehe mich dann immer wieder an meinem Beruf erinnert und das macht mich immer sehr glücklich aber das darf ich leider nicht mehr und verbringe die meiste Zeit im Krankenhaus oder im Bett. Und ich habe mein Beruf sehr geliebt, darum macht weiter so vielleicht schaffe ich noch die Fertigstellung vom guten alten Opel GT das wäre echt super aber mal schauen was noch kommt ich wünsche dir und deiner Familie eine schöne Weihnachtszeit und Gesundheit mit freundlichen Grüßen Marcus Meyer
Other than VW's Karmann Ghia, there is no other car that rusts so much as the Opel GT...😮 Unfortunately, this will really hold back the value potential of the Opel GT in the future....
You should consider transforming your hobby into your business. Taking into account the rust experience you faced and tackled with this GT and the demonstrated mastery of reading curves, you are good to attack Porsche 356 projects
Thanks for the comment. Grey 2K epoxy is fully waterproofing, although different brand obviously. The RED spray is somewhat waterproofing, I had to use that inside the beam layers, since it is 100% fireproof. The gap was so small, I had to use that since there are long welds...and no access to put the fire out. The reason why inner and outer beam had rust between, was that it was open to the wheel arch, which is now fixed. And with proper draining, I think the beams have a good ventilation to stay moisture and rust free...
Hi, i have just discovered your channel ,it’s very inspirational, iam in the middle of a very rotten classic mini so i need inspiration, whats the white paint you use on some metalwork ?i suspect its epoxy primer but not sure, keep up the good work, thanks again
Hi and welcome aboard. This GT is my second car, the white Mini was my first project 15 years ago. Good with Mini, is that there are lot of panels available. I assume that the issue is in the rear end subframe bay ? What kind of Mini it is? Yes, it is 2K epoxy primer. Very hard, but not very fire resistant....This car will be sand blasted very lightly and over painted with industrial epoxy. Only then I will start the work with filler...
@@GT1900garage thanks for the reply, my mini is a 1967 mk1 thats been “restored “ very badly several times in its life to the point where basically every panel needs replaced, iam in the middle of boot floor/backseat ,rear panel,both wheel arches and quarter panels plus heel board, iam trying to get abit of strength into it before I tackle the floors and sills, the main problem i have is there’s very little reference points left that haven’t been butchered so there’s a lot of measuring going on ! I’m almost ready to start welding so wish me luck 🙏🏽 this is my second mini so I know I can do it, great to hear from you and keep up the good work 👏
Thanks for the reply. I almost missed this reply. Sounds like you have a major task ahead of you..If you like, you could drop some pictures to my email. gt1900garage at gmail...
Hello,what is your time schedule?Do you expect that you can drive the car in summer 2024? Thank you for the video,always a pleasure Greetings from Germany
Thanks for commenting, unfortunately no. Originally I was hoping to drive my GT at summer 24, but the extensive metal work has postponed this by a year.. So I hope it will be ready in summer 25
Danke für den Kommentar. Ich habe versucht, mir kein Ziel zu setzen, Weil das zu Hektik und Stress führt. Ich habe beschlossen, dass dieses Projekt eher eine Reise als ein Ziel ist ... Aber der Sommer 2025 ist das Ziel 😂😂
Nun ja, 2025 ist ja nicht mehr so weit weg. Und ohne Druck zu arbeiten ist sowieso besser. Ich drück dir die Daumen, dass dein Projekt weiter so super vorangeht. Und man darf ja auch nicht vergessen, dass die ganze Filmerei und das Cutten enorm viel Zeit beansprucht. Ohne wärst du wahrscheinlich deutlich weiter.
Danke für den Kommentar. Ja, die Zeit vergeht schnell, das nächste Projekt ist schon im Kopf. Ich glaube nicht, dass ich viel weiter gekommen wäre, wenn ich nicht Videos gedreht und geschnitten hätte. Ich wäre einfach fauler gewesen. Mittlerweile hat sich auf RU-vid eine Community gebildet, die die Motivation hochhält. Obwohl die Bearbeitung viel Zeit in Anspruch nimmt, bringt sie auch viel mehr Begeisterung bei der Arbeit mit sich.
I really admire your skills and your patience. But to be honest: Although the Opel GT is a really beautiful car, I wouldn't do this to myself. Unfortunatelly electrocoating didn't exist in 1971. That would have saved you a lot of work and time.
Yes, but after paying lot of money for the car, and again s**t load of money to haul it from Germany to Finland, there is no other option, but to finish the car...
@@GT1900garage How much did you pay for the car? As I understood, the German seller told you that only a small amount of welding is necessary. I would demand most of the money back from the seller.
Yes, I paid about 30 % to 40% too much. But I think the older gentleman did not knew what he was selling.. I was supposed to travel to Germany to check the car, but got ill just days before flight. So I had to trust on his words. But the thing is, even if I would made it to Germany, - I would have accepted the car.. Majority of the rust was very well hidden.. There is always a risk when buying 50 years old cars, and knowing the reputation of Opel GT, I was actually aware of the risks....
Moro. Motonetin Maston 2k epoksi pohjamaali. Itsellä tulee tätä vaan tuonne perään minne ei enää pääse kun perä menee kiinni. Kun peltityöt on tehty, auto puhalletaan vielä kerran kevyesti ja ympärimaalataan raskaan kaluston pohjaepoksilla. Mutta toi Motonetin maali on kyllä varmaan yhtä kestävää.. onko Mantassa ollut paljon työtä?
@@GT1900garage okei hyvä tietää, onhan siinä saanut jo usean viikon korjailla pieniä paikkoja ja huonoja korjauksia. Vielä olisi kuskin puolen helma kokonaan auki ja just viikonloppuna leikkasin lattiapellin polkimien alta pois että saa tehtyä runkopalkin korjaukset viimesen päälle. Apukuskin lokarin joutuu vielä luultavasti irrottamaan että saa a-pilarin vahvikkeen korjailtua. Isän ostama rojekti, maannut meilläkin vesisateessa jotain kymmenen vuotta ennen kun aloin kesällä pistämään sitä kuntoon.
@@GT1900garage oli jo alunperin sen verran tuunattu että tulee myös jonain määrin tuunatuksi. Chevyn 5x5” navat joku aikanaan vaihtanut kromilippa vanteille sekä vähän kehnot kuunsirppiä muistuttavat pyöränkaaret vaihdettu alkuperäisten tilalle. Rallipenkit ja -ratti. Koneena 2.2:ksi porattu cih, tuplakaasareilla ja jyrkemällä nokalla, löytyy siis myös vähän vetojakin kunhan vaan saadaan toimimaan oikein.
Ok, hieno homma. Minulla alkuperäinen look tulee säilymään, ainoastaan rumat tunkin paikat tulee piiloon. Samoin renkaat alkuperäistä isommat ja leveämmät. Kone sen sijaan auki, haluisin 2.0 ruiskun, sellainen etsinnässä...
Vielen Dank für den Kommentar und ich stimme voll und ganz zu. Das Schweißen ist der größte Entwicklungsbereich. Dies ist praktisch das erste Projekt, bei dem so viel geschweißt werden muss, und es gibt nur sehr wenig Schweißerfahrung. Natürlich würden ein gutes Schweißgerät und das richtige Schutzgas helfen.
es liegt oft nicht am schweissgerät , sondern an den einstellenungen, versuch mal mehr power und weniger schweissdraht. Ich hoffe du wirst die Hohlräume noch richtig koservieren, wäre schade für die ganze arbeit. @@GT1900garage
Danke für die Antwort, stimmt... Ich sollte mir viel mehr Zeit nehmen, die richtigen Einstellungen zu finden, jetzt bin ich mit dem Eisenschmelzen zufrieden... Welche Hohlräume meinst du in diesem Fall?
@@hanniganz733можливо такй переклад, але знаю, що збільшуючи потужнісь - збільшуй подачу проволоки. Орієнтуйтесь на звук зварювання, ну і авжеж на вигляд результату)
Hah, that was this🤏 close to be the title of this episode... But 50% of my viewers are from Germany, so they would be wondering, why the title is "the boat" 😂
