Instagram ► / kevins_european_garage Because my 996 decided it wanted to be Aircooled I figured it was the right time to do all the maintenance I had been holding off doing.
Sorry for the problem, but it’s going to make some very helpful content for the rest of us. Just finished refreshing my suspension, new shocks, arms etc by following your videos, they proved invaluable so thank you for all of your efforts.
I recently replaced all three tensioners. Couple were significantly shorter than the new part. It seems to have addressed some of the rattle. It made sense to replace a critical engine part that is now 20 years old. Some essential tips based on forums and my own experience: - Obtain the correct cam locking tool based on your engine. Short plate for 5 chain, long one for 3 chain. 5 chain engine only has slot on the bottom cam. - Know the correct orientation of the cam slots at TDC. 360 degree engine rotation needed between Bank 1 and Bank 2 when moving over to other side. - Buy fresh cam cover seals. The green plugs. And new aluminum washers for the tensioners. - Definitely do the research on the correct tensioner part numbers based on your engine type. Roller chain versus toothed. Numbers changed over the years. - Parts -55 or -56 (one with external spring) are designed only for the non-roller (hyvo) type chains - A shallow & thin 32mm socket will make life easier. For Bank 1 and IMS you can stack a socket inside a deep socket for screwing back in. Newer Bank 2 tensioners have a 8mm hex. This is for good reason because there is limited space to get a socket to fit on the old Bank 2 tensioner, even with the AC pulled out. I ended up machining a socket down to thin walls. - Definitely drain the engine oil! It will make the task more tolerable and you will not be battling with multiple liters of oil draining out and putting it back in later. - For the bottom Bank 1 tensioner make sure you have enough leverage and space to press in the tensioner while at the same time screwing it in. There is no grenade pin so you have to press the tension in yourself. Get the car high up enough to also turn the torque wrench on the IMS tensioner. - A boroscope will make locating the rear AC bolt easier. You can’t take too many blind goes before this head strips. Ensure the socket is lined up straight on the bolt head. Try a 1/4” extension & ratchet for better feel. The bolt is captive. - The engine temp sensor can be a bear to put back in. Make sure you don’t drop the rubber gasket under the intake when putting it back. - It may be a good idea to take cam deviation readings (on a hot engine) before and after this procedure. - Generally a good idea to mark the accessory belt orientation so it goes back in the same direction. Take the time to spin the pulleys to check for noises/issues.
I have a 5 chain engine. I’ll get the kit to hold it all together. As far as I know no one has changed the chain type. But I’ll look into it when I get closer to doing it.
Thanks I appreciate the support! I was planning on doing most of this stuff as a winter project. But if I'm going to pull her apart I might as well get it all done.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Sounds like you’re going to have a lot more videos coming up though :-). I too have a box of parts I never got around to installing on the Cayman. I’ll get to it eventually or when of course things break.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Very true. I get so OCD and want to finish everything. I’ve learned that that’s just not the case and need to take it slow. Really looking forward to some additional videos here in the near future.
I know I have to balance driving the car and wanting to work on it. It’s just too much fun to drive to want to take it off the road to work on it but now I think it’s time to do it
Good Luck Kevin, just spent the last two FULL WEEKENDS replacing the Entire front and rear suspension. Rotors and Pads as well. on my 996 coupe. So Like you, in for a penny in for a pound. Might as well knock it all out while your under there and up to your elbows in dirt and old oil:)
Thanks. I agree, might as well just dive in deep and get what ever needs changing done. I'm just doing it about 6 months early as this was the plan for the winter.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage I think my next deep dive will be an exhaust upgrade. I bought this car from the original owner retired navy fighter pilot from San Diego. Anyway he had every receipt from the day he bought the car in Carlsbad. But no receipts for the suspension. When I removed it, it was all original. So I am replacing parts as I come across them. Exhaust is original so sure replacing would be helpful.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage I hope so. Sometimes I forget how having a New England Car makes such a difference. When I lived on Fort Devens my first car was a 66 Mustang and it was held together with Bondo and Fiberglass due to all the rust. Most of my friends had two cars, A Winter beater with snow tires and a nice car that stayed in the garage all winter
Kevin, I echo everyone's sentiments as well :(. I had mine go out last year. Was a PITA to get it out (996.2). As everyone knows, you have to lower the engine a bit to get some clearance. One other thing that I had to change as a result was the engine mounts (they went kaput or were already bad?). My suggestion since you have a laundry list of things that you are doing is to change the coolant hoses as well. I changed some of mine out 2 years ago when I did my spark plugs/coil packs ( I actually broke one of my hoses in the process of doing the plugs which is why I changed the coolant hoses). Another caveat - if you are going to replace the return hoses (in particular the one with the flange), the only one that FCP Euro sells is the quick connect hose, which means you have to change the flange as well! Other than that, have fun and keep making great content!
rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/737700-simple-3-step-complete-coolant-drain-updated-w-refill-procedure-water-pump-tips.html Procedure from Ahsai on rennlist gets all the coolant out so you are not mixing.
Thanks for the great content on the 996! I recently used Fister to upgrade my muffler and had a terrific experience. The sound is amazing! Looking forward to following the repairs! Good luck!
Be sure to get the OEM expansion tank ($$$). The previous owner did the Gundo hack and so I have no point of comparison, but my car sounds amazing (he also did the same intake mod that you have). Also consider the “Ultimate” AOS that I have heard a lot of good things about. I don’t wish breakdowns on your car but it means some great content for the rest of us who will eventually be in the same boat. Keep up the great work!!!
I have been contemplating using an aftermarket tank. I’m still thinking about it. I’ll look into the ultimate AOS I think I remember reading about it at one point. Definitely will be a lot of content coming soon.
There is a discussion right now on Rennlist about fitting a Mk 2 tank in a Mk1. Would be worthwhile following as there’s a big cost difference on the OEM part.
Coolant tank is a known failure point Kevin, had mine replaced proactively. At least it didn’t cause any damage. Change the water pump as well, another timed-out part. How are the motor mounts? Does the exhaust sag or is their a clunking sound from the rear?
I was planning on doing the tank and a lot of this stuff like the tensioners as a winter project. I got lucky that it let go just as I got home. I've already done mounts and the water pump was changed not too long ago but that might get done too just because.
