[Prop House] 3D Printed ODST Helmet Build Video 

Same here.

Glad I was able to inspire you, hopefully all goes well with your future 3d printing endeavors, and thank you for the like and sub, it is much appreciated :)

Perhaps I will try that in the future, thanks for the advice.

Would have to be a very weak airsoft gun since it's PLA. I think all you'll do is make it look like it's been shot with an airsoft gun though. You either make tiny dimples or shred the PLA, depending on the power, PLA, and wall thickness. (I print stuff for airsoft)

​@@skywardsoul1178 Can you make a tutorial for an airsoft visor

@@TheEpicDartfish I don't do visors (I find the Marine helmets more practical), but if I did, I'd probably vacuum form polycarbonate over a printed mould. I would rather use a ballistically rated visor from a face shield though and cut that down. That's actually rated for taking shots. Your eyes aren't worth the risk. I'd make sure it's well secured in the helmet so a full auto burst can't dislodge it. I'd make it replaceable if possible. You don't want protrusions like bolts though as they'll cause serious damage to you if you were to bash your head / fall on the helmet. I've seen people leave exposed bolts inside helmets that would act as a pressure point to crack your skull open.

That would be cool, probably a bit difficult to the do the chrome though, gotta get the stuff really smooth. I hope to make a full armor set someday, either ODST or Reach styler

A really light mist of water on the surface you are wrapping helps get a smooth finish, learned the trick from a guy that does automotive vinyl wraps

Thank you, I used a creality CR-10 Pro V2.

@@Studio_52 thank you! I’m looking to purchase 2 printers, one being a resin printer for small scale figures for D&D and a large printer for helmets and such. What is your opinion on the V3? I’m going to assume you don’t have it because you have V2 but would you recommend I purchase a V3?

@@BigCrawdaddy I have heard good things about the V3, although it is not exactly the same as my version so I cant speak too much to functionality, I would recommend you do your own research a bit and see what other people have to say, also depending on what you want their may be a cheaper model that is more than sufficient. You didnt ask about resin but I also have a creality halot one, which I have had pretty good success with (though I havent had it for to long yet). Hope this helps.

@@Studio_52 thanks so much, this info really helps! Cheers

@@BigCrawdaddy I've had the V3 for about a year. I've had nothing but issues and sorrows with it. The hotend is nonstandard, so good luck finding replacements. The mount for it is poorly designed and takes ages to disassemble. They claim it's an all metal hotend, but it seems inconsistent. Some are, some aren't, which is very dodgy. PTFE degrades and emits nasty gasses at higher temps. It's inconsistent and I'm constantly having to fix and fiddle. The dual Z motors sag which results in one side lowering and the nozzle runs into the bed, so that requires a fix. I'd highly recommend saving more and buying something of decent quality like a Prusa. My friend has several Sovol SV-01s that he recommends as cheap workhorses. Those still need the dual Z fix like a timing belt or printed pillars for the gantry to rest on. He prints a lot of orders. For a resin printer, I can only say avoid Anycubic. My interactions with them put them on par with a scam company.

Most of the settings I changed were related to the specific filament I used, as for the print speed be careful in creasing it to much as you could cause a layer shift or holes to appear in the print I tend to stick around the 50-70 mm/s range depending on the print.

I use overture brand pla, sanding isnt the easiest but it is possible, I have also started using resin to fill print gaps as well, really cuts down on the sanding time.

I would recommend an ender 3 pro, its a bit smaller than what I used for this but plenty big if you cut the print up into pieces, plus it cost a lot less, as for other equipment, pla bed adhesion glue(search on amazon), filament, paints, sand paper, etc., you also may want to get some 3d printer maintenance equipment, such as extra nozzles, fans, and so on. There are plenty of good guides online which provide more information (All3DP is pretty good source of info).

About 30ish including paint, plastic for the visor, and filament, I used about a spool of filament.

I usually wait about 2 hours or longer depending on how much you put on and how humid it is.

@@Studio_52 ok thanks

I heated it up with a hear gun, and pulled it over the mold, and repeated that process a few times till it was about right.

1. I will add it to my list of upcoming projects. 2. Creality CR-10 Pro V2 3. You can buy it on Amazon, eBay, or Creality's own website.

@@Studio_52 Thanks!

Thanks, The model for the visor should be in the top thingiverse link in the description, or just click this one www.thingiverse.com/thing:3389997

Thank you, as for the visor it was intended to show that not everything will go according to plan sometimes you need to improvise, also I spent way to long preparing the whole vacuum setup and felt that it should have at least been included.

@@Studio_52 Thanks! Keep doing what you do best!

You would need something much thicker,

@@Studio_52 i was thinking maybe a metal/hard plastic mesh but im not sure how i would form it, any ideas? Also i appreciate the fast response

@@XAspectRatioX If you were to use a mesh you best bet would be to hand form it, probably using pliers, otherwise you would have to make some sort of press former and molds of the mask, I will say though that mesh is not very recommend for airsoft cause BBs can break apart and get inside, many fields do not allow mesh masks at all.

@@Studio_52 hmm i may just have to find one online then that made of hard plastic

I used a cr-10 not an ender, you may need to splice the pieces more to fit an ender.

Just added link to split stl in the description.

PETG sheets

@@Studio_52 thank you! Planning on buying a 3d printer soon to start cosplaying

@@johnderat2652 Awesome, I wish you the best of luck!

@@Studio_52 Thanks! Btw, would you know of a good way of making the visor similar to a one-way mirror, like they are in the games?

@@johnderat2652 you best option would be to apply a film to the visor with those properties, or find a visor material that is already that way, I think someone on etsy sells something close.

I think I scaled to around 80-77 percent not sure, I would recommend measuring your head, then measure the opening at the bottom of the helmet and scale so it is just big enough to fit.

@@Studio_52 ok then I would make the rest the same measurements correct sorry this is my very first helmet and I would like to get it right 🙏

I used 3D Builder, it is a free program for Windows 10, I highly recommend it for basic model cutting.

@@Studio_52 is it possible if you could help me cut the files for my Ender 3?

@@mattthegamer1867 yeah I can try to do that, will see what I can do tomorrow.

@@Studio_52 thank you

@@Studio_52 hello any update?

Yes