another tip i found somewhere in another video: if you want the visor to be one-way and another color, you can buy those window tint covers and apply that to the plastic visor as well
Ty for the tutorials and material listings on the description. I'm just getting into this hobby and am shopping for my 1st 3d printer. Showing the process with tools just gave me ideas as well as guidelines to follow. You earned your like and sub:)
Glad I was able to inspire you, hopefully all goes well with your future 3d printing endeavors, and thank you for the like and sub, it is much appreciated :)
Would have to be a very weak airsoft gun since it's PLA. I think all you'll do is make it look like it's been shot with an airsoft gun though. You either make tiny dimples or shred the PLA, depending on the power, PLA, and wall thickness. (I print stuff for airsoft)
@@TheEpicDartfish I don't do visors (I find the Marine helmets more practical), but if I did, I'd probably vacuum form polycarbonate over a printed mould. I would rather use a ballistically rated visor from a face shield though and cut that down. That's actually rated for taking shots. Your eyes aren't worth the risk. I'd make sure it's well secured in the helmet so a full auto burst can't dislodge it. I'd make it replaceable if possible. You don't want protrusions like bolts though as they'll cause serious damage to you if you were to bash your head / fall on the helmet. I've seen people leave exposed bolts inside helmets that would act as a pressure point to crack your skull open.
ODST is my favourite armor from Halo, I'd love to build a set with a black carbon fiber stealth look and a set covered completely in mirror chrome stick on wrap to make it look like active camo
That would be cool, probably a bit difficult to the do the chrome though, gotta get the stuff really smooth. I hope to make a full armor set someday, either ODST or Reach styler
@@Studio_52 thank you! I’m looking to purchase 2 printers, one being a resin printer for small scale figures for D&D and a large printer for helmets and such. What is your opinion on the V3? I’m going to assume you don’t have it because you have V2 but would you recommend I purchase a V3?
@@BigCrawdaddy I have heard good things about the V3, although it is not exactly the same as my version so I cant speak too much to functionality, I would recommend you do your own research a bit and see what other people have to say, also depending on what you want their may be a cheaper model that is more than sufficient. You didnt ask about resin but I also have a creality halot one, which I have had pretty good success with (though I havent had it for to long yet). Hope this helps.
@@BigCrawdaddy I've had the V3 for about a year. I've had nothing but issues and sorrows with it. The hotend is nonstandard, so good luck finding replacements. The mount for it is poorly designed and takes ages to disassemble. They claim it's an all metal hotend, but it seems inconsistent. Some are, some aren't, which is very dodgy. PTFE degrades and emits nasty gasses at higher temps. It's inconsistent and I'm constantly having to fix and fiddle. The dual Z motors sag which results in one side lowering and the nozzle runs into the bed, so that requires a fix. I'd highly recommend saving more and buying something of decent quality like a Prusa. My friend has several Sovol SV-01s that he recommends as cheap workhorses. Those still need the dual Z fix like a timing belt or printed pillars for the gantry to rest on. He prints a lot of orders. For a resin printer, I can only say avoid Anycubic. My interactions with them put them on par with a scam company.
Thanks so much for the tutorial, I think I’ll give it a shot! What settings did you use when you printed the pieces? Would a faster print speed work since it’s a bigger build and everything could be buffed out with some sanding?
Most of the settings I changed were related to the specific filament I used, as for the print speed be careful in creasing it to much as you could cause a layer shift or holes to appear in the print I tend to stick around the 50-70 mm/s range depending on the print.
So... What I've learned from this is that I need to save up for a 3D printer, because using EVA foam is a pain in the *[REDACTED]* and isnt going as well as I'd hoped.
I use overture brand pla, sanding isnt the easiest but it is possible, I have also started using resin to fill print gaps as well, really cuts down on the sanding time.
I'm looking to get a 3D printer and start making stuff like this. Could you tell me a good 3D printer big enough to print this and a list of equipment I will need? Thanks!
I would recommend an ender 3 pro, its a bit smaller than what I used for this but plenty big if you cut the print up into pieces, plus it cost a lot less, as for other equipment, pla bed adhesion glue(search on amazon), filament, paints, sand paper, etc., you also may want to get some 3d printer maintenance equipment, such as extra nozzles, fans, and so on. There are plenty of good guides online which provide more information (All3DP is pretty good source of info).
I have a few questions? 1. Could you do a 3d printed Halo Reach Hazop helmet tutorial? 2. What kind and model of 3d printer do you use? 3. Where could I buy your model of 3d printer? (for later usage)
Wonderful video, I am just confused on why you included the section where you tried to make the visor using the vacuum method, just to say it did not work.
Thank you, as for the visor it was intended to show that not everything will go according to plan sometimes you need to improvise, also I spent way to long preparing the whole vacuum setup and felt that it should have at least been included.
@@XAspectRatioX If you were to use a mesh you best bet would be to hand form it, probably using pliers, otherwise you would have to make some sort of press former and molds of the mask, I will say though that mesh is not very recommend for airsoft cause BBs can break apart and get inside, many fields do not allow mesh masks at all.
@@johnderat2652 you best option would be to apply a film to the visor with those properties, or find a visor material that is already that way, I think someone on etsy sells something close.
I think I scaled to around 80-77 percent not sure, I would recommend measuring your head, then measure the opening at the bottom of the helmet and scale so it is just big enough to fit.