I don't often criticize others work, but because this is more of an educational video I'd like to chime in. I really like your platforms but you should have made them at least 16" longer than the average board you planned to stack. That way you would always be able to have your first and last sticker within an inch of the end of your board. 70% of end checks will stop at the first sticker. And the micro splitting starts as soon as the board is milled so even though it will only be in the pile for a few weeks, the damage will be done. The second problem I noticed were the tarps used to cover the stacks. Obviously tarps are cheaper than tin roofing but only if the final product comes out the same. Having the tarp come all the way down the sides of the pile is trapping the moisture inside the "tent". Air needs to flow through the pile to remove moisture. Even with the ends open, the air is restricted because of the alignment of the stickers. Whatever the covering material used, it should only cover the top of the pile or a small overhang to shed water. Lastly is a problem many encounter, myself included. For lack of open space, being forced to stack lumber in less then ideal locations. When customers ask me the best location to dry lumber I usually tell them, "the middle of your front yard". Surprise, surprise, most don't really want a stack of lumber as the focal point of their yard. So we often end up putting stacks out back in the woods. Under the tree canopy where you get little sun and less wind. It's like trying to dry laundry in a sauna. But we don't live in a perfect world so we make do with what we have. Please don't take offence at my trespassing on your tutorial. As I always tell people at the end of a job, " you've just worked your butt off, then paid me a sizable chunk of change to cut your lumber. You should now take steps to protect that investment and do everything you can to ensure you end up with the most high quality dried lumber you can". Thank you for your patience and be safe, Patrick
Thank you very much Karen. We just want to make sure we have the best lumber and slabs, we can possible produce. Hopefully make a few woodworkers plans come to life.
Now that brings back many memories when I worked at a saw mill helping our inspector grade lumber and stickering lumber. We had to do that to get it ready to put in the kiln. Good video with some good information. Take care Chuck and Deb. Going to have to get a t shirt.
That sounds like a good time at the mill. Wish we had a kiln here. One step at a time I guess. Feel free to click on the link for a shirt. They are waiting a ready to make you one.
Great videos. If I may suggest, the closer the sticker is to the end of the board the less chance of checking. If a board is prone to checking, the weight of the boards above will stop the checking at the sticker. Keep up the great work!
Helpo Jason. We agree, but these are only temporarily stacked here. They will be picked up in a couple weeks. We also seal all of our logs with anchor seal 2, to prevent checking. Thank you for checking out the channel. Hope you stop by in the comments more often.
That is one thing I didn't really consider or think about after the 1st few times milling, just how many stickers you need!! LOL After I started making my 1st pile of lumber I was in complete 'Sticker Shock'!! Ha! 😆👍🍻
A few years ago I got a lot of walnut and cherry sawed and needed lots of stickers. Went to Lowes and bought a big stack of reject lumber they had outside on clearance. Spent days at my tablesaw ripping it down to stickers. Out of sheer boredom I calculated the length and figured I sawed a mile. Yep, a mile of stickers. I just got a new stash of maple and used them again. Your piles are neater than mine. I use similar pallets. Get them from an HVAC company.
Hello Barry. You did it the right way, by using dry stickers. We did the same when we first started milling. Lots of hours at the table saw paid off. We now stay one step ahead, and mill our own and have them dry before use. We couldn't find any big or strong pallets around here, so of course, we made our own.
Nice too see you both back and I see you are taking JENGA to new level 😆😂😆. Jk. That's some good looking poplar and very concise video of how to properly stack for drying. As always good luck and God Bless.
When we stack 6' or 8' lumber, we stagger our rows in the pile. With good spacing. That way we don't have to use stickers. Only down side is the width is the same as the length
I doubt these guys are able able to do this because of the sheer volume of lumber and slabs but I will go to Harbor Freight and strap my stuff down to limit warping and cupping. Traditionally you count on the stacks weight to limit cupping but regardless of the weight its still going to cup, hence the nylon straps. You don't have to go all Arnold Schwarzenegger but get it somewhat tight.
Not at all. We create a tent over the stack that allows airflow, but keeps the rain off. We can dry down to approx 10% moisture content. Plenty of great projects have been created using our lumber and slabs
Good stuff, always glad to learn, I’m still open for great ideas, also what type mics do you use they are clear and help out so much, I posted some more videos on RU-vid , Creations by Drake, take a look at us sawing walnut
Great video as usual! What are you using to prop up the middle under the tarps. I've used cinder blocks, but they tend to tear through the tarp eventually. just wondering if you do anything different.
We place a 6x6 or cinder block at each end of the stack, then put a long 4x4 running from one block to the other. Like the ridge beam of a roof. This keep the tarp from holding water, and keeps it loose to allow air flow.
a word of advice , your stickers are to far from the ends of the boards , they need to be closer . ends of boards will split and check up to sticker . sticker is 4-5 inches from end it will only split 4-5 inches.
All of our logs are sealed when they are harvested. Checking is minimal. I'm not a fan of how far they are from the edge either, but my concern is the boards sagging over time. It hasn't happened just yet with other stacks, so maybe my concern is for nothing. Time will tell.
Poplar has always worked well, but we have sawn black walnut, ash, and red oak. They all work well, as long as they are dry, but will stick with poplar now. I've heard there can be issues with highly acidic woods.
