great video! Don't cut your chain extension just zip tie them to the rest of the chain never know if you may need them down the road or if you sell at some point.
Crosswind blew me into fishtail....Black ice prevented me from being able to correct....rolled THREE and 3/4 times at 50mph. 6 passengers on board. Wife landed halfway out her window, nearly lost her right eye. 1 boy COMPLETELY ejected and the Excursion landed on him losing a piece of his ear. Over $150k in hospital bills. We all lived, thank God! $3k to NEVER have that sick feeling in my gut again. Yep. I hope this works.
Bob K. We took a year off and towed our Airstream around 30k miles with a ProPride. One month towing in snow for skiing and several times we have had cross winds in the 45 mph range (Wyoming is windy). We have never experienced even the slightest sway. When the wind was 40 plus we slowed to around 40mph as it pushed our rig but again no sway. Every thing has its drawbacks but sway is entirely eliminated with this hitch. Hope your future travels are much less eventful
@@twk1956 only drawbacks are maintenance which is easy, grease the zircs every 500 miles and backing in to a tight spot is a little harder as it behaves like a longer trailer. I think this is because it projects the pivot point. Once I got used to this I can back it down like a champ
I just installed my 3p hitch yesterday and it's so worth the money after today's 100 mile test drive , like night and day no sway period .It was a little easier thanks to your video
We just bought a 30-foot Airstream. We had ProPride ship directly to the dealer, which will install it for free. Even though I'm not doing it myself, I have a much better understanding of how these things work, how they go together, and how to do maintenance and make adjustments, so thanks a million for your excellent video. As for the cost of the ProPride, I can't put a price on safety and peace of mind, so I have not doubt that the PP will be worth the money for my wife and me.
I ordered the Propride 3P this week after being disgusted with the way my current hitch was performing. I too went thru a rollover 13 years ago and never again! My current system provided me with the same uneasy feeling after many adjustments and without success! My favorite bumper pull hitch setup was a Pullrite but unfortunately they do not manufacturer those anymore. That system pulled better than the 5th wheels that I had later! I even called Pullrite and asked them what they recommended and Propride 3P was it!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to show your set up. I'm constantly watching eBay and Craigslist to purchase a gently used one. One thing I wanted to shared... at the end of the video you show your finished set up... and I noticed you had the emergency breakaway cable routed through your 7 way plug holder on the trailer frame and the ball lock pin. I was always taught to keep that cable free from everything - the reasoning was that you never want that cable to be pinched or bound up in any of the hardware and have it fray or break during an emergency. I never wrap it around the frame, the chains, the trailer plug wire, anything. Not sure if everyone feels that way, just sharing what I was taught. Great job, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
Great video. I will be purchasing one of these hitches in the VERY near future. I'm sure I will be referring to this video often. Thanks for taking the time to film and post.
Thank you for sharing. I have a fifth wheel but if I had a TT and was installing this hitch your video would assist greatly in the installation. Great job, it's time to get it on the road.
I've had one of these hitches for two years and you will love it it's great it takes some getting used to hitching and unhitching but it is well worth it
Wow, that hour flew by... Great video and it really helps to understand what you're doing and how it all works. Thanks for the awesome instructions. I have a 5th wheel as you know, but this is great for instructional purposes and general knowledge. Thanks again, Pat
Found your instruction video very helpful; watched it several times before embarking on my installation. All went without any drama or surprises with the same hitch on my '16 RAM 2500 and "16 AS Classic 30 ft. Really appreciate your clear explanations.
Great video Mike, on that hitch you guys chose, but I'm sold on the Equalizer 4 Point sway control hitch. Safe travels and happy camping Mike and Heidi.
I almost bought the equalizer, the thing that I cannot get over is two of their 4-point sway control is compromised when it starts to wear or even when it's raining out. The bars action against the L brackets on the frame get worn over time, loose friction when they're wet, and become noisy. Equalizers answer to the noise is providing composite pieces that connect to the L bars and ride underneath the weight distribution bars. They basically reduce the friction that is used to help control sway. It's mind-boggling, I've never seen anything like that before. I just couldn't get my head wrapped around that part of it. Last thing I wanted was noise back there.... Yes I'm pretty much one of those guys that hears every creak and squeak when I'm driving down the road. I can't even stand hearing my keys jangle on my steering column. It gets even worse than that, I can't even stand the little plastic locking ring that rattles from the slightest vibration that is on plastic water bottles. LOL
Never seen a hitch like it! I live in Australia and have recently purchased a 21’ Jayco Outback caravan. I don’t know if this hitch is available in Aust but I’m going to investigate the possibilities of purchasing and fitting to my van. Thanks for a real eye opener on the sway issues.
Thank you for this video. It’s very clear and concise. I’m going through the install now. Although the instructions are pretty good as far as manuals go, it’s definitely very helpful to visually see the install on film. I had a question before ordering the hitch and recurved and e-mail and phone call from Sean directly. That’s the best costumer service I’ve gotten for something not purchased locally!
I think some people get confused when measuring the trailer hitch height. You don’t need the trailer level, you need it parallel to the surface it’s parked on. Saying you need the trailer level, suggests you need to level it with a standard bubble level. I think that confuses people. You absolutely do not need a bubble level for this install. You need a flat surface and a measuring device.
Good install video, the most detailed I've seen so far on this style. I'm still rocking my Reese HP Dual Cam setup, which only cost $600. My 38' Outback 324CG Toyhauler barley sways if at all against the highest crosswinds. $3k is just too much money for the P3. It appears that Sean is trying to recoup his design costs and loss of sales with competition from Hensley by charging double the value of these. I do think the P3 is a slightly better design upgrade vs the Hensley, but it's not worth that much cash. I'd rather upgrade to a 5th wheel and put $3k into something of more value.
A Great information video Mike! But DAMN! 3k!!!! My buddy drove 2 hours away to pick up a slightly used Hensley Hitch for 500 bucks and swears by it but we run a Equalizer Hitch and other than 30+mph gusts I don't feel a thing when towing and it was about 2k cheaper. Plus my 16 and now my 19 Super Duty has anti sway built in, don't know how well it works or if its even just for the truck side of things but so far very happy with the Equalizer, only thing that sucks id now I have to get a new 2.5" shank and a new 2.5" collar for my Rock Tamer mud flaps.
Great video! I am always stunned by the people who complain (thumbs down) a free video. I wish I could have watched your video before my installation. Thank you for spending your time making a video trying to help people out!
Great job Mike. The hitch company ( Pro Ride) should be proud of your install video. Sometimes company installation videos go over stuff too fast, or don't show even the simplest small step that might trip some people up. Your camera angles were spot on. There is a lot of engineering that goes into this product. Your not far from Alliance? we have a graduation at Mt. Union Saturday, figure West Branch would make for a home base this week end.
Did you take a look at the Hensley hitch and was there a reason you went with one over the other. I have been watching videos on both and it seems like the Hensley is not as complicated. We are awaiting arrival of a Rocket 2608BS and I am trying to decide what hitch to go with. ProPride Hensley , or conventional style.
There are a few videos on RU-vid explaining the differences between the Hensly in the Pro Pride. Basically in a nutshell, there was a redesign by the original engineer Jim Hensley and former employee of Hensley hitch Sean Woodruff. They addressed the shortcomings of the Hensley hitch and came up with the pro Pride.
We have a 2020 2608BS as well. With a 2017 F250 and a blue ox swaypro, Still are having sway and do not like it. Would love to know what you decided on and how its working for you.
We used this video to do the install yesterday, in addition to the company directions. Between the two, I think it went together well! I love that Sean Woodruff makes himself available for questions. We did have many questions about the application of this hitch to our" less than ideal" set-up. We have a Tahoe with a towing package (not XL) and a 33 ft. Ultralite. The wheelbase proportions made this impossible to account for with a Reese anti-sway, weight distribution hitch. Got caught in a 32mi/hr. sailing just off the headwind(if you know how to sail, you know that this is the sweet spot for catching the wind) and a Tractor Trailer went by and let's just say that the sway was so bad, I consider myself a hero for saving the family. Never again! Traveling is supposed to be safe and fun! We have not yet tested the rig on the highway, but will let you know if the sway is corrected. What do you guys know about the stability of this set-up on wet roads or actively raining?
Just saw your video, great job! Was thinking about this hitch, but my concern is how low the bars are to the ground. My driveway is on a incline and I'm worried they will strike the driveway when backing it in to its spot. :(
45:54 Thanks for using proper engineering term! Pound feet torque! NOT energy reference of Foot pounds. Two thumbs up on that! DOH!!! 46:38 I take it back!!! Ken
Excellent vid! You covered all the points I’d need. Sean and crew should be pleased with your help. So the question is, how well has it worked? Does it really cut back on the white knuckle drives? Would you buy it again? Hmmm. I guess that’s three questions. Thanks for the time and effort again.
It's different as far as The Hitching process. It's not easier, although my wife says it is , it's not more difficult it's just different. As far as Towing down the road, I hate the fact that people use their half ton pickups the toe more than what they should and they use this hitch help that situation out. I think everybody should have to tow their trailer using a standard hitch for a year or about 1500 miles of Towing and then decide if they want to upgrade and go to a pro Pride hitch. So with that said, we towed our short lightweight trailer with the F250 2019 extended cab long bed super duty and now we're towing with a F350 2020 crew cab long bed so the results of having this more sophisticated hitch is probably not noticed as much because of our truck size. As I mentioned in some of our videos over the last year that the control while Towing it's definitely increased using this hitch... here's a link to one of the more recent videos that I talked about it.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y22jMY2JMjc.html
@@Rvdaydream The challenge is you don’t know what you don’t know. Based on the specs of my f150, 11000 lbs towing and 1780 payload, my 6000# trailer “should” be well in spec. In reality, when you add three 20# tanks of propane and the two batteries, I’m at 800# of tongue weight before adding anything to the trailer, the weight of the hitch, and anything behind the trucks rear axle. I’m pretty certain that I’m far closer to 1200# total than 1000#, which is the size of hitch the dealer recommended. When I’m loaded for a trip, the front of the trailer and rear of the truck are lower than I think they should be, so I think my lack of weight distribution adds to my sway issues. I’m thinking that until I can buy a new truck, I have to upgrade the hitch. Hensley Arrow, Propride 3P 1400, or possibly the Blue Ox Swaypro BXW 1500. The Swaypro is $2100 less and still doesn’t use friction to reduce sway, is easy to set up and use, and gets great reviews, but the Hensley licensed hitches prevent the trailer from wagging the truck and have 1400-1500# weight distribution. Another nice option is that I’ll be able to open my tailgate. By the way, so far, not impressed with any of the dealers I’ve spoken with and their towing literacy. Appreciate the vid. And like your vid on the rear tray for your generator. Another issue I’m trying to address. Keep me coming!
Great video Mike!! Thanks for all the great information. I think you need to check into a Jen-y hitch torsion hitch you will never feel that trailer behind you and that trailer will never fail if you get a potholes in the road... you will actually be floating on a cloud.. happy Camping ⛺️ see out there..
Have you backed up or drove up a incline with this hitch? How does it work turning? Do you need to do anything while backing up ( leaving everything hooked up)
I hear a lot of great things about this hitch but it's so expensive. That was the deal breaker for us. We went with a husky centerline ts and have been happy with it. The trailer isn't too big (25ft exterior length, 5000lbs) so we couldn't justify the cost. 3 biggest con to this hitch for my application are: 1) need to be straight when hitching 2) other vehicles cant tow or move the trailer without the receiver bar (provided their receiver height is the same) 3) cost
Awesome install video and yes, I think you really should try this with a second pair of hands. It would have made the installation so much easier. And OMG, How could you end the video that way.. I was waiting to see how it worked.. Nope.. Just shut it down.. LOL..
Great how to video up until the point I saw you put the emergency brake wire on the stinger. What if you lose the hitch pin? You need to connect that wire to same spot as your chains so it's connected to the tow vehicle, not the hitch reciever. (Speaking from personal experience of losing a hitch pin). Other than that. Great job.
That was just and installation video . It's not connected to the hitch pin. The loop goes through the hitch pin so it doesn't fall down and get pinched off by the propride hitch. The cable continues all the way down to where it is connected where the chain attaches.
All Fords since at least 2011 have anti-sway control actually built into their trucks. Both F150 and Super Duty. Nothing wrong with taking extra measures though but a lot of guys seem to forget this fact. Happy RVing. Cheers.
Your right, they do all have anti sway built into the truck but this system does nothing to eliminate sway. The system only recognizes that the truck is starting to sway and notifies you on the dash and will also apply the brakes. It has nothing to do with stopping a unit from swaying. I have a 2019 F-150. My first trip pulling my toy hauler, I set the sway control alarm off 6 times. It did what it suppose to do and applied the brakes. It did not eliminate the white knuckles and fear. That is why I purchase the Pro Pride. Have not used it yet but I have a $60,000 truck, a $20,000 trailer, a $16,000 Razor and not to mention my family and three dogs. Yes $3000 is a lot of money for a hitch but peanuts compared to the other investments.
@@larrymattox2471 I agree with everything you said bud. My only question (or is it concern) is what size toy hauler you got? I don't know of any size toy haulers that I'd feel comfortable towing with a F150 truck. Glad you found a setup that worked out in the end but I'd be willing to bet a dollar from a donut that your F150 wasn't enough truck for the size of the toy hauler. It's rated to pull it I'm sure but there is such a thing as using to light duty of a truck for the task at hand. This is why I only buy F250's. Yes I take a hit on fuel economy but the towing experience is far superior to the F150 imho.
S Knox thanks for your reply. I have a 26’ puma overall length 31’. Dry weight 6300 , cargo and trailer under 9000. Power wise , the truck is rated 12,200. The truck has plenty of power to pull my load. Yes when I am towing (3 to 4 times a yea
Sorry about that, as I was saying , I didn’t tow that often to up grade to a 250. f-150 has such a good ride. I hope the pro pride will eliminate the sway problem. If it doesn’t, I my on the future be looking at a 250. I always heard that you should stay under 9000. Lb. with any half ton which I do. Thanks for the conversation. Larry
@@larrymattox2471 that's not a bad setup. Yea I do agree with staying under 9k pounds on a half ton regardless of what its rated to tow. Good talking to you Larry. Have a great day!
How perfectly level does it all need to be when first dropping the tongue on the new hitch ball? I can be overly cautious and waste time trying to perfect things. I'd like to do this in my drive if possible, but it might be offset by a degree or three.
Well you don't use the hitch ball any longer for hitching up. It stays mounted to the tongue. Are you talking about whatever you're trying to insert the hitch bar also known as the Stinger into the hitch receiver when it's time to hook up and tow? If that's the case it doesn't have to be very level at all. We've only run into a couple situations that we've had two spend a little extra time getting it all lined up for us to hook up and go to our next destination but the angles that we were at were pretty extreme. As far as setting it up initially you need to be pretty level. What I mean by that is if you're referring to this installation video I had the truck and trailer in known level locations in the driveway. It was definitely not perfect but it was pretty close to what is normal. Obviously the trailer needs to be darn near perfectly level to make sure that you get your hitch height measure correctly. But then again you could actually take your tow vehicle to a nice level location and get all the measurements off of your hitch at that point and do the worksheet in the booklet and it will tell you how you should build the hitch. What I mean by build is how to bolt it together for your specific application.
@@Rvdaydream I don't see how you could've given any better response. You lead me to the exact answer I needed. And based on the info I read, I was thinking I can measure elsewhere, and your next sentence confirmed it. The backend of the trailer is just shy of as high as it can be at the back of the drive and the 350's dash level shows the front end is 1° up. Might have wait for the ground to dry from the snow so I can use the lawn...w/boards. Thanks for the great info. Much appreciated.
I was wondering what the height is to the top of your receiver on you 2019 -250 ? I run into the same problem where my trailer is way to low in the front. Great job installing your pro pride.it was most helpful. Thank you and be safe.
I just watched your video for the second time. We have a 2020 Rockwood 2608BS and will tow with our new 2021 Ford F-250. Our trailer has the break-away switch located in the same place as your’s. I noticed that you unscrewed it during the ProPride installation, but I didn’t see how you remounted it. Did you just screw it back into the original location, or did you have to move it?
Thanks so much for the fantastic detailed installation video! It was absolutely great and we could not have pulled this off without your help. If we knew how to contact you guys we'd love to send a gift card or cookies or a six pack...
Awesome!! Glad it helped out, one reason why Michael did the video. If you could kindly contact Sean of Propride and let him know our video helped that would be awesome!! Thanks for watching!😁👍
Just like the video says everything shown in the packaging was laid out in the boxes and that's part of the hitch head assembly. It's 2 and 5/16. I would assume if you need a different size that's something that propride hitch could help you with
@@Rvdaydream thanks for replying. No that's what my hitch is 2-5/16 ball. I just keep seeing a black ball in all the pics and videos and I was just wondering if they already came installed on them.
Curious to see how it works when you are in a tight spot where you must hitch or unhitch with the truck and trailer on an angle to each other. Would the trailer half move back to center making hitching back up an issue?
I really really want this Propride Hitch and you did an excellent job in in your mounting and assembling video. I have very little mechanical experience and I fill like I would not be able to install this hitch even if I followed your step by step video. I definitely would not trust just any RV service department to install this properly either. Any suggestions? Thanks 👍🏻 PS: I also didn’t hear you mention the price of your particular unit, that would be helpful also. Thanks again
Thanks so much for the video, it really helped me make my installation way easier. I had a question on the extension kit. What did you buy? Did you buy them all separate or was it one kit?
The extension kit comes with everything. That was shown there. . You can call. Sean or Brent at Pro pride and they will let you know. If it will work out for you.
@RVDayDream if you have to drop off the trailer for work to be done and the have to move the trailer around with a ball type hitch, what needs to be done and how easy is it? I would think ProPride would make an adapter for this.
The clearance isn't that low not for most of these modern RVs as they ride pretty high and the pro pride is the latest iteration of the Hensley. It was redesigned and re-engineered by Jim Hensley and owner of Pro Pride.
It looks like a nice system and good in depth install. But I just don't like how it puts it father away from the truck putting more leverage on the trucks hitch.
I thought that would be a concern for me too but once the weight distribution is supplied it really doesn't make a difference especially on an F250. Kind of like saying I don't like to have heavy tires on my travel trailer. LOL
@@Rvdaydream ok thats what i wondering/thinking, that you just crank the bars a little more to offset it. If you can. Some day video from the tailgate going down the road to show hitch works. Would be cool to see. Thanks and keep up the good work.
I noticed when you first attached the spring bar links to the jacks, you used the middle hole. Later in the video they were on the bottom hole. Why was it necessary to change the position of the spring bar links?
Great video. I'm curious how you chose the Propride over the Hensley, I know they are very similar and that the Propride is based off of the Hensley design? Also, what would be your 2nd choice of a weight distribution anti sway hitch if you weren't able to go with the Propride or Hensley? Thanks in advance.
@@Rvdaydream Thanks for getting back to me, the main concern I have with the Propride is how low the clearance is as I plan on primarily boondock camping.
1 bolt in those bars can be removed. So now it's not an issue. 90% of the time you're not going to run into that situation. Maybe even more. My ball height on the trailer when it's perfectly level is 24 and 1/2 in. We've only had that situation come up once.
Being that it's a newer redesign over the original Hensley. Sean at Pro Pride who was in charge of Hensly for quite a few years had left the company and sat down with Jim Hensley and collaborated to come up with the new improved design. The other thing was customer service through the roof at Pro Pride. You can call pretty much anytime and get hold of someone there who's willing to help. And personally I don't care for the strut rod or whatever Hensly calls that piece that you have to continuously make sure it's tight so much so that they put a self adjuster built into it so that you don't have to get a wrench out because it has to be done so often or checked constantly. Other than that I think their operation is probably close to the same.
Great video, I admit that I didn't quite make it all the way to the end. I'm also considering one of these hitches but am concerned with their ground clearance as I plan on doing a lot of boon docking, it's hard to tell for sure but what's your ground clearance like? Also, how did you decide between this and the Hensley, they both appear very similar.
Thanks, it's hard for me to even watch the whole thing. LOL they make these new trucks and RV so tall ground clearance is definitely not an issue. Are old RV WD bars were much closer to the ground then this one is. I was on the fence between the Hensley and the proPride but there was a couple of things that made me choose the pro Pride over the Hensley. 1, I sent basic email inquiries out to both companies and both responded quickly however propride sent me a message that was obviously a non canned message. What I mean by that is my name didn't get pasted in some sort of a pre-formatted responds and sent back to me. Number 2, I was having a hard time with their torque arm part of the Hensley hitch. The fact that they give you a built in wrench on that torque arm makes me believe that you have to always check the tightness of the arms. I think I actually read somewhere the reason those were adjustable because of "trailer frame stretching"? I've never heard of that before. Makes me think that after 20 years of owning our brand new RV that is 29 feet and 9 inches that it will actually become a true 30 ft long RV. LOL the third reason that I went with the propride hitch was it does not require any Drilling in the frame for mounting. And the final reason is how responsive there customer service. I rarely call companies and get someone on the phone darn near every time that I call. And not only someone on the phone but the person that actually knows what they're talking about and has answers. In short really good customer service over the phone. The inside top of my truck hitch tube is 23 and 1/2 in tall. The top of my coupler on my RV is 24 and a half inches tall. I have plenty of clearance with those Heights so if you are even close to that I wouldn't worry about it.
@@Rvdaydream Thank you. The first Hensley design is still a good hitch but it just isn't the best one available. We've literally addressed every weak point in the design. I wouldn't go so far as say it's obsolete, but it's close. There's really no place for it anymore.
Had this hitch for a year now. Won’t ever tow our travel trailer without it. Night and day difference that you just cannot make someone understand until they ride along or tow with it. When the semi passes you two feet away doing 80 mph and you don’t feel a thing, that’s why it’s worth every penny. If it magically disappeared tomorrow I’d buy another immediately. It’s worth the money. And once you pass the short learning curve, hitching and unhitching literally takes less than 2 minutes. Stress free. Thank you pro pride hitch
Wow... The clearance to the ground seems to be pretty low. Comparing it to a normal equalizer hitch i think you lose a few inches. How much does this hitch add to the hitch weight? Let us know how it works! Thanks for the video. Bill in Utah
As tall as the new RV's and the new trucks are, the ground clearance between the weight distribution bars is much higher then our old set up. The total shipped weight of the propride hitch is 200 lb. Of course using weight distribution, most of that gets applied elsewhere. It is also another reason why we chose an F250 over an F-150.
Watching from Australia so many of the "terminology's" may be different but is this a "anti sway" setup or a "weight distribution" system? From watching the installation thru to the end it appears to be a "weight distribution hitch", essentially a way of transferring the weight at the ball back tot he front of the vehicle (leveling out the tow vehicle after the caravan is lowered onto the tow ball???
Welcome Australia! , This is a weight distribution hitch, that eliminates sway. 98% of the trailer hitches on the road today just have a sway control system that addresses sway as it happens. however the pro Pride changes the way the trailer gets pulled down the road. The hitch is permanently fixed on the trailer ball coupler and it no longer pivots on the trailer ball. Instead it has to separate pivot links on either side of the ball and makes it to where the trailer cannot physically be pushed around by the wind or passing tractor trailers on the highway without moving the tow vehicle side to side by sliding the tow vehicles rear axle, which is darn near impossible. Just look up Pro Pride hitch on RU-vid and you will see a few other videos. One of them, in which you will see a shot of the hitch in action as it drives down the road.
RVdaydream OK, we just call it a WDH here most commonly sold by Hayman Reese. We use a WDH with our 21' van, towing with a Colorado diesel. The drawbars on our vans here appear much longer than your vans. Enjoying watching your journey......we are planning on full time travel in the next year or two......we will be part of the "Grey Nomad" family travelling non stop around, thru, across and over our big country..... A right of passage her in Australia is called the Big Lap, essentially travelling right around the coast of Australia......
I suppose I need to do some sort of a survey on that. I'm sure the best place for the Breakaway cable to be secured to is directly to the frame of the vehicle. However, most people connected to their hitch. The majority of trailers I've seen lost off of vehicles have either bounced off the ball or the hitch has rusted off of the frame. As for me I just connected to the hitch bar. The chances of that hitch bar coming loose from the truck is darn near zero
I believe the breakaway cable should be attracted to there vehicle not the hitch I don't know with this type of mount it matters but I an not comfortable where tot have there loop for the breakaway cable
It’s like a Hensley because it’s actually Jim Hensley’s improved design. His old design is still sold by the company named after him. He licensed his new design to ProPride.
After 10 minutes I have a LOT of respect for your Wife, she is a saint. I also understand why you have one child. Sorry just had to, but yes I have immense respect for your wife. I am sure the detail will help people. At times you do need to put your tail up.
We have two kids. And remember, just cuz it's on TV or in this case RU-vid doesn't mean it's accurate reflection of daily life. I wonder how many thousands of people would have watched this instructional demonstration video If I didn't say a word? Kind of like printing out an instruction booklet without pictures.
@@mrpaulgrimm6129 the original Hensley hitch was redesigned by the original engineer and a former Hensley hitch employee and they found all the shortcomings of the original Hensley hitch and designed the pro Pride. The strut arms that the Hensley hitch uses requires constant adjusting. So much so that they include a built-in wrench to do the adjustments. The pro Pride requires none. Pro Pride customer service is incredible.
@@mrpaulgrimm6129 the video information is basically all that I can provide on the product. As mentioned in my previous comment the strut arms that Hensley uses is a problem. There should not be any additional adjustments needed once something is installed other than retorquing mounting bolts and that should only have to be done once after the product has been installed. The Hensley hitch requires retorquing of the strut arms on a regular basis. And the angle of the Stinger cannot be adjusted 4 weight distribution on the Hensly. Please call Pro Pride and they will explain all the differences in great detail.
I'm sure the ProPride is a great hitch and it, like the Hensley, will be top-of-the-line for eliminating sway, but for your travel trailer and F-250, it's completely unnecessary. An Equalizer 4 pt. WDH will be more than adequate for your combination and can be purchased at RV Wholesalers for around $500.
I almost Bought the equalizer due to it's price BUT, I do not like the 2 points of contact that equalizer utilizes for friction on the L brackets....They become worn, rusty and when wet offer less friction for sway control, Also they are the noisiest bars in the Campground. They offer a composite add on for the noise However, that also reduces the friction used to control sway? not sure why they would defeat their own design other than they cant engineer out the noise.
RVdaydream I used an Equalizer 4 point hitch on 2 travel trailers - a 24’ hybrid (10K model) and a 32’ regular travel trailer (12K model). I also used the bracket jackets to minimize the noise. Equalizer even says you can put a bit of grease on the front friction points. I did all that and had no issues with sway on a 32’ travel trailer. If it does get a bit rusty, you can just spray a bit of black Rustoleum paint on it to clean it up. At $2000 to $2500 less than the PropPride or Hensley its a very easy decision to have to apply a bit of paint every 1 or 2 years. Those expensive hitches have their application but for your combination its totally unnecessary.
@@allan6021 getting caught in unexpected 50- 60 mph sidewinds may prove to be an eye opener.... I find it shocking that people similar to myself would spend $30,000 on their RV and $40,000 on their truck and only $600 on their hitch even though, a rather low, (in comparison to potential loss), investment of $3,000 would ensure they had the absolute safest hitch for towing out there. I know what I could get by with, I can't justify doing it. It's definitely a personal preference. For example why did you buy The Equalizer? You could have easily got away with the Harbor Freight weight distribution system that is around $260? Shoot, I towed the RV home with a used, cobbled together, mismatched, heavily worn, Craigslist bought, hitch system that had the wrong spring bars and was misadjusted and it worked just fine. Being a repair person and fixer of things I know how to get away with quite a bit of things that maybe lesser quality, but, I know when to do things the right way. I've ridden with my brother-in-law who had an equalizer four point, towing a 32 foot Coachman and I have rode with one of my best friends who had a Reese dual cam, and 1978 Airstream and our elderly neighbor, who has since passed on, had me tow his 28 foot Jayco to a not too local Campground for him, and in each of those situations I always felt when tractor trailers drove past us. It's just an engineering thing. I don't think people necessarily realize the physics behind it. If I was to put this propride system on a small landscape trailer, you know one of those from Harbor Freight that could easily be picked up from the rear by a couple of guys or even myself, once up in the air, you cannot physically move the trailer side to side it is impossible due to its design. So let me give you another example, my kids, when they were small, used to have a wagon that they used to ride down our driveway and the wagons front axle was attached with one Bolt in the center at the front of the wagons body. Well it never failed that once they got going so fast the steering got really shady and usually flip them out. The neighbor moved away and they had left their kids wagon at our house, (they used to ride down our driveway too), instead of having the same type of mounting on the front axle as our kids wagon did, instead it had two spindles with a drag link that the handle connected to. It was stable as a rock going down the driveway and the kids could actually slalom back and forth without any fear of flipping. It's the same principle. It's just better physics for better control. I bet you don't have China bomb tires on your RV do you? It's not always about the money. especially when this is going to be our home. just stressing my point. this is definitely not an argument. I love that you're commenting. it's the only way people can share on this format. Thanks for the feedback! :-)👍
@@allan6021 Comparing an Equalizer hitch to a ProPride hitch is like comparing a tent for camping shelter to a travel trailer for camping shelter. A travel trailer is totally unnecessary for shelter. A tent will shelter you but it's not a travel trailer. Same goes for a conventional friction-based sway control hitch when compared to sway eliminating pivot point projection. 5th wheel owners know the difference when towing with the pivot point at the rear axle. It's the same stability ProPride owners know.
Sean Woodruff You have a personal financial interest in ProPride so your input has to be viewed with that in mind. That said, I’ve already agreed that the ProPride and Hensley hitches will be better at managing sway but I just don’t believe the risk of experiencing sway beyond the capabilities of a properly set up Equalizer WDH is significant enough to justify paying 5x the price of an Equalizer. Especially when the ProPride offers no significant advantage for weight distribution. To each his own.
Yahoo is really starting to bug me. I had to click past one add after 5 seconds and then they have 7 more adds set up through the video. What a way to eat up my data. UGH Frank
I need to go back to recording the videos instead of watching them directly. If I record they go at 360 instead of 240. I have 50gig a month between my 3 hot spots. Maybe I should cut some of my subscriptions, Not yours though LOL
People who are full timing on the road in RVs either have to have a a lot of money so they can pay other people to do the work or, have the ability to repair and modify on their own. So to answer your question, anyone who wants to save money install the hitch themselves. As far as it being too long? I have a 30 foot long trailer, should I just bought a normal hitch and bought a 30 ft 6 in Long Trailer? I don't mind the extra six inches and length knowing that I also now have 87 degrees of turning angle.
Bob Runde. I would because I am mechanically inclined, I know it would be done correctly, and I do want to pay $ 75.00/hr for someone to do a job that I would be billed for 3x as long as it takes me too. Negative comments really are not necessary when RV daydream takes time to make a video to try to help people.
I almost Bought the equalizer due to it's price BUT, I do not like the 2 points of contact that equalizer utilizes for friction on the L brackets....They become worn, rusty and when wet offer less friction for sway control, Also they are the noisiest bars in the Campground. They offer a composite add on for the noise However, that also reduces the friction used to control sway? not sure why they would defeat their own design other than they cant engineer out the noise.
@@Rvdaydream I've got those phenoluc bar support pieces and with 1000lb of tongue weight pushing on the bars it doesn't negate the purpose or reduce friction, just noise. It's a price difference thats hard to justify for me. I'm very comfortable towing Some folks just need more of a warm fuzzy and that's why they can charge $3k and get it.
@@bruiser8363 not true... it's functionally a different design and not comparable to a friction-based system. Has nothing to do with warm fuzzy. It's designed and performs head and shoulders over friction trying to damp the trailer pivoting on the hitch ball. You will never be able to create enough friction to overcome the trailer weight pivoting on the hitch ball. That's how trailer sway begins. And, if the noise is reduced you are, in fact, reducing the friction and the way the hitch works. The coefficient of friction between two steel surfaces is greater than the coefficient of friction between steel and a polymer. The noise is a symptom of the friction being created between the surfaces.
@@bruiser8363 I'm not justifying anything. Just posting the facts. Towing a travel trailer with the effective pivot point at the rear axle is different than towing a travel trailer with the pivot point at a distance behind the rear axle and acting as a lever on the tow vehicle. Ask anyone who tows a fifth wheel and they'll tell you about the stability of a trailer pivoting at the rear axle. Like I said above, it's functionally different. Not a justification but a fact.
Myself I prefer my fifth-wheel hitch and trailer. They don't sway and are fast to hook up. Besides that fifth-wheel hitch cost less and is not as complicated as your hitch. While your messing around hooking your hitch up I'd be 10 or more miles down the road ahead of you.
Maybe 10 more miles down the road, but you're also taller and I can travel under ten times more bridges then a fifth wheel, I can also haul ten times more stuff in the bed of my truck and have it protected. There's pluses and minus the both. You may want to check out my previous videos where I discuss this fully.
Just like any other hitch except for two positives, one 87 degree angle. That is awful nice when you need to turn it kind of hard to get it in at spot especially with how long our truck is. And number two, you don't have to loosen the weight distribution tension prior to backing, that's right, you can do an 87 degree turn with full weight distribution tension on the bars.
