Propshaft Coupling Removal Direct and Drive V-drive 

Ref Big Al's comment about removing the drive shafts on a V-Drive boat, I have a 1995 Searay 370 inboard drive with "Tides Marine Dripless Seals" and yes would be good to see a video on pulling these shafts. I need to renew strut bearings and at same time want to mount spare "standby" dripless seals on the shafts during this winter layup. Am interested to know the arrg't as the shaft goes thru the housing recess under the Hurth Transmission unit, is there a bearing between that housing and the outdrive coupling or is the shaft free to be pulled outboard once the coupling faces are released. Great video's Ron best ones on the tube without doubt, you keep it simple/clear no B.S. and clear to understand for us boaters. Thanks; John.

If your shaft goes through the trans & comes out the front like the one in our video the shaft must be slid back past the trans opening, if your coupling is under the trans then you simply need to remove the 4 bolts & slide it back an inch or two.

I have a v-drive on a Mastercraft Maristar 210 engine, I need to remove as well with four bolts and a central nut at the shaft coupler. Removing the 4 nuts didn’t seem to do much in terms of freeing up the shaft. Seems like you would have to remove the central coupling nut to get the shaft to move back? Looks like the coupling puller is sold out for a few months as of this writing. What do you have to do to get the shaft free after removing the 4 bolts and the central nut?

@@nathangen THe 4 outer bolts do not need to be removed to remove the shaft, only the center main nut needs to be removed, then the shaft must be pressed back about 1/16" then it will fall out. The 4 outer bolts are to attach the shaft coupling to the trans coupling, we also use these holes for our puller tool.

Oh interesting, so is there another way to move the prop shaft that 1/16 without the coupler puller? I see the tool is currently sold out. Would say the A.R.E. Shaft/Strut bearing puller removal tool be the ticket? Using this sequence, I found on teamtalk “1. Put a block of wood between your prop and hull (or Ron Tanis method of crowbar at coupler bolt heads) 2. Use a jumbo crescent wrench or socket to loosen big transmission shaft coupling nut but leave attached 3. Loosen 4 transmission nuts and bolts but leave attached. 5. Remove rudder (I think this can be skipped for most boats) 6. Remove prop 7. Attach slide hammer too to shaft and slam the slide hammer forward and that will break apart the transmission and shaft coupling coupling. 8. Now remove big transmission shaft coupling nut 100% 9. Slam slide hammer backwards now and the shaft will come out 10. Remove 4 transmission nuts and bolts and coupling and your done.”

I have an assortment of 3/8" bolts in packs of 4 from 1 1/2" long to 4" long, it seems every one is different, you will need to place the puller up to the coupling & measure just get 4 that will fit your boat, then keep them with the puller tool.

@@rontanis1024 Thanks for the fast reply, will do

No, our video "to-do" list is long, and during the covid-19 shut down the list is getting pushed even further back.

If the tank has to be removed or slid forward the first thing I do is remove the fuel to reduce the weight. next is the fill hose, the smaller hoses can usually be left attached if only moving an inch or two. Tanks are generally held down by straps that can be removed for this. The last one had room enough to slide the tank forward 2 inches.

@@rontanis1024 I'm working on a 2006 230 Mastercraft with a 6.0l crusader who's floor is attached to the Hull leaving no access to the straps.

Well, the better boat builders design means to get access to replacing fuel tanks. I am not familiar with your specific model. I assume you need more clearance

Cedar McRee not all have set screws