thanks! The Clinchefield wont be here to stay unfortunately. Both have their original drawbars. Itll be hard to find a replacement for them. The downside with plastic drawbars :/ If I were you id try to rig up a standard metal pin and loop drawbar for the engine and tender, cause im not sure if ull ever find a replacement. Good luck!
@@trainman440 thank you!! I need to keep getting my punch list done, goal is have all the simple things done by December. Big fan of the work you do on your engines.
@@AndyKonTrains Haha I'll be watching your progress 👀 And thanks, it means a lot. Hoping to post some more project style videos soon...Ive been working on a ton of stuff but havent really felt the desire to record any of it lately...been mostly posting projects on my instagram as you know :)
theyre made by the same manufac, so they should be pretty close. But they do have different decoders (PRR HH1 has loksound5, USRA has QSI). So I was pretty lucky :) I put the faster one behind, so it would take most of the weight from the cars to slow it down.
theyre great! a bit light (like all proto steam cause its all plastic) but fantastic smooth and silent runners, very detailed (more than BLI), and fragile. just like all proto steam. Fantastic for the price, given I paid $150 and $80 for my two. IF I modeled N&W I would DEFINITELY be more interested in getting a proto Y3a than a BLI Y6b. Good luck!
@@trainman440 thanks. I might get one of each the 3 and 6b and have the heavier 6b up front and the 3 either behind it or shoving. I have plenty of coal hoppers and so does one of the clubs I’m in. Thank you for the info!
