really appreciate you taking the time to put together such complete videos on apple trees. I have learned more from watching a few of your videos than I have learned in watching a hundred videos over the last 2-3 years
This is so helpful! I'm a new teacher, taking over a school's heirloom orchard in the arid SW. Its nearly pruning season down here and I'll be using these insights in just a few weeks as we learn the process together. Thank you big time!
Great video. Thinning is very important. When thinning or pruning give fruit or branches to your rabbits chickens pigs. Even you teams of horses and your cows will enjoy them. And they will start composing process. Also as I have around 60 trees I have birds eat blossoms. I don't mind. They need to eat also and do a fairly good job with thinning.
I live in Australia Spring starts September so that’s the time I start bud grafting. I learn a lot from your video, I watch almost all yours. I keep repeating some stuff because now in 2 weeks were start pruning our fruit trees. I got over 200 fruit trees in my orchard. I’m excited to use all what I learned from your channel
Thank you so much! I have an orchard, and I'm planning to plant more varieties of apples. It is going to be possible thanks to this wonderful video! Even though it was about pruning I got some layout ideas.😊
Thank you so much. Your video explanations are so clear. I finally have my young tree in the goblet shape. I can see the trees first fruiting buds and look forward to this year's growth once the snow begins to leave in March.
Good job bro i love it we have already apple in the philppines lot of farmers are planting apple i got idea about fruning thankyou and god bls watching in marikina city philppines
Thanks for the vid, mate! Personally I never remove flowers unless they form after primary fruit set. More flowers more bees better pollination more options against risk like hail.
Thank you for sharing you experience and expertise on pruning fruit trees. It would be nice if you could also include a picture before and a picture after pruning the same tree. By showing the picture side by side, it will give the viewer a better understanding of pruning. 👏🙏
I usually do precisely that on most of my pruning videos. But the main goal of this particular video was thinning so I didn't think it was necessary. Thanks for the suggestion and comment.
Fantastic video. I more or less have grasped the techniques of pruning my apple trees... but two questions... how do you fertilise your trees? Do you dig around the soil and apply fertiliser and bury the soil back? And how do you prevent codling moth attacks? Thanks.
Traducido del inglés por GT. Gracias por compartir su experiencia y conocimientos sobre la poda de árboles frutales. Sería bueno si también pudiera incluir una imagen antes y una imagen después de podar el mismo árbol. Al mostrar la imagen una al lado de la otra, le dará al espectador una mejor comprensión de la poda. 👏🙏 Mangalore, India
To add one thing, thinning to increase fruit size should be done very early, 15mm is good, leave an extra apple in each cluster as some apples will naturally fall, take off the extra after another 1-2weeks . The cells are dividing only in very young fruit, later in the season the cells are mainly swelling with water and sugar not dividing. Thinning of large fruit late in the season is still used for taking weight off of branches but there is only a small effect on the final size of fruit.
Thanks for the tips. Every year I plan to thin earlier and be more precise with it, but I just don't have the time to do it (my personal work, doesn't allow it). So, I just do it when I have a break and some trees are more advanced that I would like them to be.
There are not that many videos that are as comprehensive. Thank you. Question, do you have a video or are planning to film a video on pruning tip bearing apples? I have a cortland and not sure as to the best way to check vigor and keep fruiting wood.
A excellent and very detailed and helpful video. You may be familiar with the Canadian grower on RU-vid who says you should leave fruit on the branches so they will bend downwards!
Olá Jaime,um video muito bom ,sublime...claro sublime.Bom as maçãs são a minha fruta number one...gosto muito de rilhar maças...AGORA árvores tão novinhas e cheias de filhos...tanta variedade de maçãs...as triviais, MAIS AS bravo de esmolfe,pink lady,joanegold, maçãs DOM MANUEL, maçãs de SÃO JOÃO,E POR AÍ...JAIME tem de arranjar malápios,são so sweet and tartness.estou a escrever com bastante alegria k já estou a divagar..agora,tem muito trabalho anterior que não se vê,e é isso k eu quero aprender...JAIME PARABÉNS PELO VIDEO...
Obrigado, Albano. As maçãs também são uma das minhas frutas preferidas. Directamente da árvore ou depois de umas semanas/meses de armazenamento (com o gosto e a textura a modificar-se, por vezes para melhor) são difíceis de igualar, com a vantagem acrescida de se poderem comer durante vários meses já que algumas variedades têm uma longevidade impressionante (o que não acontece na maioria das outras frutas).
Thanks for the comment. If you are referring to the green protections in the base of my trees, they are there to avoid rabbits from chewing the trunk and killing the tree when its young (its a common occurrence in my area).
Great overview, thank you. Out of curiosity, what are some cultivars that you grow? Are there any traditional cultivars that show good resistance to apple scab in your area? Also, what rootstocks do you use for your dwarf trees?
Hi. I have several traditional Portuguese cultivars like Porta da Loja, Bravo de Esmolfe, Pipo de Basto, Riscadinha de Palmela, Casanova and others. Most of these are not scab resistant but do quite well, in most years. The more usual varieties, like Granny Smith, Gala, Cox Orange Pippin, Fuji, Pink Lady, etc struggle quite a bit, in more humid summers. I am now trying varieties that have the Vf gene for scab resistance, like Ariane, Santana, Topaz and others. Unfortunately, according to studies done in the last few years, it appears that the Vf resistance genes, have a tendency to loose effectiveness, and new strains of the fungus can overcome that resistance completely, which i am also seeing in my home orchard. Regarding rootstocks, i tend to use M9 and M26, but in areas with clay soil, i have to use M7 or even MM106, as trees don't develop well in that soil, so it has a dwarfing effect, even if the rootstocks are only semi-dwarfing.
Thank you! Your videos are so insightful and helpful. I'm struggling to get my Apple tree to produce fruit after flowering. I can see the bees working, but as a result last year had only 2 small apples on the whole of the tree. It was not pruned properly and mainly overgrown. I've corrected it about a month ago before our spring starts in RSA, but have not seen any signs of leaves yet. Can you give some guidance on how to prune fig trees and citrus fruit trees, like lemons, in future videos, Please?
Almost all apple varieties are self incompatible. Which means that, even if the tree is loaded with pollinating insects, they won't be able to pollinate any flowers successfully, as the pollen they bring will not work. If you have other apple trees nearby, there is a chance they can bring pollen from another variety to do cross-pollination. If you don't, i would plant another apple tree (of the same flower group - that is, that flowers around the same time), so you can have more fruits.
@@louiskok17 in my orchard I got 6 kinds of apples, red delicious, golden delicious, Fuji, granny’s smith. I make 3 way apples red delicious, royal gala and pink lady in 1 apple tree, yes they need other apples to pollinate them.
Each variety has a date of maturity. Some mature in august, others in september, october and even november. But each season you have to adjust to weather conditions that may anticipate or delay maturity dates. In comercial orchards, brix levels and other, more sophisticated techniques, are used to determine harvest dates. In the end, in our home orchards, the tasting of a few random fruits is the decider.
There could be lots of reasons for that, so its difficult to pin point the one that afflicts you. You might have problems with pollination, for instance (you need other apple varieties of the same flowering group to help with that). That might explain fewer fruits than normal. Deformed fruits have other reasons, usually fungus, that affect the fruits in an early stage and deformed them, sometimes severely, as they grow (like scab).
I have several apple trees that grew by accident, one is giving very few but delicious apples that make me think about pink lady. Two others are making a lot of very powdery apples that are only good cooked or to give to the donkeys (I have friends who like them, I don't). For those two I think I must remove some fruits from the clusters because sometimes there is no air in between. The trees are very different looking from the video : they have very thick branches because they are old trees (more than 15 years) but hey spent several years without fruit until I pruned them and amended the soil. I might try to graft some part of them with good quality, because I lack space to plant new trees. I see very few pollinators, or only very big black bourdons here, maybe use a brush ?.
Very good informational video. I have a semi dwarf 5 in 1 apple tree at my backyard and well maintained with pruning and organic fertilizer but it does not flower or fruit a lot like your trees. Do you any fertilizer?
Flower development and pollination are dependent on several factors. The number of chill hours available (hours below 7ºC) is one of the most important for good fruit set. The other is having different apple varieties with similar flowering periods (i suppose that the varieties in your 5 in 1 tree flower at the same time...) Even then some varieties are better pollinators than others. The third factor are pollinating insects, like bees. Since i introduced a few bee hives near my orchard the fruit set has, at least, duplicated. Adequate pruning of the trees and good fertilization practices are also very important but the previous mentioned factors are even more decisive.
Hello and happy new year, i have a question for you. I have an apple tree, Johnagold variety 6 year old very well established, open center pruned and very healthy general but with a problem it drops almost all fruits even if i thined them. i thined more than half the fruits and after some time it drops all the others. what can i do?
I really appreciated the videos. Is it possible to reshape an apple tree from central leader to open center? Our trees are around 5-7 years old and between 2-3 meter of height.
I have done precisely that in this video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rPybP4H7lWY.html - with one of my trees, as an example. It might take a couple of years though.
I am having some big Apple trees in my orchard with pumper crop Is it possible for me to do apple thinking in this July will apple thinking make apples bigger Sir answer me I am eagerly waiting Hope you ll unlock your experiment
A few dwarfing rootstocks, grafted with a good, self fertile, eating variety, will grow and produce fruits quite nicely in a large pot, with the right care.
Hi, Edna. I only remove shoots that have bad placement or interfere with each other. That way the tree doesn't spend precious resources in growing branches that end up being removed in the winter pruning.
JSacadura ,The one thing I am sure of in farming of any crop. Your not a "farmer' without about 3 generations of knowledge and experience. Your accent sounds like the birthplace of The Apple. With your skill and communicated insight you ,I can imagine, are more likely to have 13 generations of the above mentioned K & E. Thank you, And now to Pears
Hike Solo, You are too kind... I would be proud to have all that experience. Unfortunately, my parents where city folks and didn't now the first thing about farming :-) My experience is relatively limited on that side (so you can say I am not a farmer), but I do benefit from the knowledge of my wife (her parents and grandparents where farmers) and I am a fast learner. My Biology degree also helps, as it allows me to have a good foundation and to be able to understand quickly the most important aspects of nature and plant development. So, sorry to disappoint you, but I am still in the learning process myself, and just trying to pass along the scarce knowledge I have accumulated to others.
I have two apple trees, apple tress are not pretty common in the place I live but they have a look like a bush the trunk is not even growing any Idea in how can I train my tree to grow as a Tree and not as a bush, I keep looking over the internet with no luck.
Fortunately, boring insects are not a big problem over here. I had a few problems with them in the past but only on neglected trees, never in trees that were well kept. If they were more of a problem i might think twice before doing heavy summer pruning. Nevertheless, removing small branches in these young trees is relatively safe. I might pause if i had to cut big branches in older trees, although you can see big nurseries doing it all the time and, apparently, they also don't have a problem with it (like in the "summer pruning 2016" video of Dave Wilson Nursery). Problems with borers will also be easier to detect in well pruned trees (you have to see the trunk to detect the tell tale signs and if the branches and leaves grow a lot in the spring and summer, those signs would not be visible until it was to late to do anything about it). Overall, there are pros and cons in doing it and, for me, the pros outweigh the cons, at least for now. Thanks for your comment.
JSacadura I am this year discovering boring insects invasion at the bud graft! As I purchase new fruit trees I will now smear this region with tree tar. As for pruning, when my fruit trees grows branches from it’s base, I just have to grimace and wait for winter.
Hi. I try to avoid getting into too much technical detail for most of my videos. if I start talking about phloem and xylem and plant vascular tissues, it might get a bit difficult for most viewers to follow. Nevertheless, in the future, I might do small videos with a bit more technical detail for those interested in knowing a bit more about each subject. Thanks for the comment.
@@JSacadura Thanks for the comment. There are those that desire the education but can't for whatever reason go to college to learn. Others wish for a more detailed explanation of why sticking a broomstick in the ground probably won't grow fruit. As for myself I find soil with all its mysterious workings to be truly amazing and desire a better understanding of how it all works. Thanks for the education ! :)
Sorry. I have no means of making an accurate translation in Turkish as i don't know the language. But you can always select the English subtitles and turn the Auto-translation ON in Turkish in the video settings. That might help a bit.
I guess if you don't thin,nature will do it itself by breaking branches off with heavy fruit but better to not stress the plant like that and get clean cuts =]
