I’m a huge fan now. And I love the calming music. So much to learn and retain, but since we’ve only just started out with fruit trees in our new house, all this useful information is very much appreciated.
This channel is a treasure trove of information regarding these type of topics. This video alone bears so much information! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Terimakasih pak saya sudah memperak tekan tutorial yang bapak berikan semoga bapak sehat selalu dan panjang umur saya sangat terbantu dengan ada nya video ini.
God bless you for putting these videos up. My brother and I are going to try some air layering, and have plans for putting a small orchard in. Subscribed.
This is exactly the kind of clear, detailed, practical, and science-based overview I've been looking for, as someone new to fruit trees. And I enjoy the smooth jazz accompaniment. Hope to learn more about pruning and training systems, especially for apples and cherries. Excellent work.
Thanks. I appreciate it. Regarding the training systems video, i'm still lacking a few images to illustrate central leader systems (i don't have many trees in that system over here, as it's used more often in commercial orchards) so it's taking a bit longer that i anticipated, but it will come...
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment. I have to make an updated version with voice over. Meanwhile here's another one you might find useful - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ispF8zyr4pU.html
Very nice 👍! I can’t wait to go back to Portugal 🇵🇹 it’s so beautiful there! Great job with pruning I just wished you could come over to my house in Long Island N.Y. to help me with my trees 🌳 lol 😂! I’m always afraid 😱 to prune them! I used to have a beautiful 15 year old thick trunk fig tree here that did very well even threw our bad cold 🥶 winters that died on me after I had to prune it . I did nothing for 15 years not even fertilize not even cover it and it did well for 15 years until I had to prune it. So maybe this is why I am afraid to do this now . This spring I will have many fig trees and I will try to do the best that I can to keep them alive and hopefully fruit for me because I’m a figaholic . I’m also planning on planting a Persimmons tree I love them to.
Figs don't to be heavily pruned (cutting into big trunks is a risk), specially in cold climates. Too bad it didn't survive. But, other trees are much more resilient, like apples and pears. Don't be afraid to prune them. Persimmons are quite resistant to cold also. You should be fine planting one.
I'm from Long Island too! Born in New Hyde Park, but lived mostly in Suffolk county, in Lake Ronkonkoma and Shirley. Fig trees need to be wrapped up good just before the real cold weather begins! Some use fiberglass insulation and wrap it around the trunk(s) and each branch. And then use black plastic lawn/leaf bags gently tied so that there isn't much air pockets! The sun will heat the black plastic some, and usually the fig trees will survive! I live in Wilmington, N.C. now, and thankfully, the weather in winter is much milder. I have 5 turkey fig trees now, and their leaf buds are quickly opening up!! Can't wait to pick my first crop of figs!!! They're so special and unique a flavor!!! Ciao!!! Sal.
without a doubt this is the best information I have seen including books and many videos...well done...i did my firdt grafting today, pruning tomorrow...Creator bless...doug
Great video formats to cover the volume of information when it comes to learning/explaining pruning techniques. Most videos I searched cover one tiny aspect, have too much talking, and don’t cover enough of the whole process. Am a 3rd year flower and herb gardener branching out to pruning various old trees on the property to give them new life - apples, quince, copper beech, etc. thanks for your channel!
Obrigado pelos elogios, Vitor. Não será caso para tanto :-) mas é sempre agradável verificar que as nossas tentativas de partilha de alguma informação que se foi adquirindo são úteis a alguém. Cumprimentos.
@@JSacadura acredite que tenho andado meses aqui pelo RU-vid (nem sempre a fio, mas quase sempre a pavio) procurando por vídeos de instruções sobre poda, agricultura, jardinagem, plantio, sementeira, principalmente dicas para principiantes, e só ontem é que dei com os seus vídeos. A diferença é ABISMAL! A qualidade, a clareza, a síntese, a calma, o ambiente, sei lá, até agora, os seus vídeos têm sido MESMO os melhores de todos! E depois descobri que você é português. Bem, para mim, é Natal! ;) Obrigado.
A ideia é mesmo essa... Tentar partilhar aquilo que gostaria de ter encontrado quando comecei, para evitar alguns dos erros que cometi. Mas, como se costuma dizer, aprende-se com os erros cometidos, e há sempre um grau de adaptação do que se vê à nossa própria situação, por isso, não se perdeu tudo :-) Foi pena foi só ter começado a recolher imagens para essa ilustração há pouco tempo (isto dos vídeos é relativamente recente) pois faltam-me sempre muitas imagens para os videos - como no caso da poda de formação que ainda não concluí pois já tenho poucas árvores em formação inicial e, olhando para o que já filmei, parece-me sempre insuficiente para ilustrar alguns aspetos, e não gosto de publicar coisas que me pareçam incompletas... Obrigado, mais uma vez, pelo incentivo e Cumprimentos.
WOW...... what a video ! Got to love a guy who loves his trees... I think I've watched every video on You Tube about growing fruit trees over the last 7-8 years Some were really good but not as good as this one ! I wish I seen your videos earlier.. Thanks for the high quality videography and your work showing us your skills.. doesn't get any better than this.. Thank You ! New Sub Here.
Thanks. You are too kind. I appreciate the incentive and i do try, but i really don't know about the video being among the best out there about pruning. It's just an introduction to the most used pruning techniques so, it's pretty basic and incomplete. I am going to try and make a few more to cover other essential aspects of pruning and try to pass along a bit more information and, after that, if you put them all together, maybe you have a good video about pruning :-)
Love the information and knowledge, wisdom being given. Would like to know what his graft sealing products were. Please keep up the good work. Thank you
Thank you so much for creating such a clear, concise video. As a newbie I want to know the techniques AND the reasoning ... you cover both in a simple, easy to understand way. Great for screenshots too for future reference. Fantastic job :-)
🍏🍎🍐🍊🍋🍑 if you do the technique of hearing that stripping the bark back until you get to the Cambian layer, put a ball of soil around it and wrapping it with cloth you will create roots in that area then later you cut it back below it, and you got yourself a duplication of the🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄 just like a Christmas tree that’s why it’s a Christmas tree was invented. Everybody would have little balls around the trees. It’s not my fault nobody passed that down to you.🍀 but you know😊
Dear JSacadura: Why my old fig tree has a lot of small figs on the branches? Those small figs on the branches could not rip in time in the summerl after the summer time, they still not rip yet. Those not rip in time small figs are more than the ripped figs. Thank you very much.
Hi, Mai Ly. Sorry for the late response. Your fig tree is probably a late ripening variety or a tree that gives several layers of fig and some won't ripe in time. These varieties usually need several months of summer heat to mature all the figs, that's probably why most of them stay small and never ripen. You can try to pinch a few branches of the tree to try and develop figs earlier giving them more time to ripe properly. Check this video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iutB8se2rgo.html
Hi, mircu. The english subtitles are hardcoded in the video. If you turn off the other language subtitles there should be no overlapping. If you mean that the writing overlaps the video in a smaller screen, like a mobile phone, I am aware of the problem so, all my new videos have a voice over as a first option (subtitles can still be turned on, but are not hardcoded in the video, anymore). Sorry for the inconvenience.
Let me insert the contents: 1) Rootstock and variety 0:39 2) Choosing the shape 1:23 3) Pruning tools 4:05 4) Open center formative pruning 6:29 5) Thinning cuts 8:21 6) Heading cuts 11:07 7) Light vs Heavy pruning 14:27 8) Summer pruning 15:25 9} Other pruning techniques 16:15
Hi. Thanks for the comment. You are probably referring to one of my other videos on grafting :-) With practice, you learn to control your movements, so its quite safe. But I should probably mention that, when starting, its best to use other, safer techniques, to prevent accidents.
Thanks, Learned a lot. The difference between your (industrial?) way of pruning and bonsai pruning is that you prone by cutting a branch to let another branch develop to where you want it which can lead to some unsightly branches that change direction in a 90 degree angle. A bonsai approach is to simply take that branch that you were to cut because it went to a direction you didn't want and simply wire it to where you want it to be, after a season it will be hardened enough for the wire to be removed. Q: You talk a lot about the quality of the fruit. To your estimation what's the difference between a pruned tree and a different one in the quality of the fruit? (are we talking about a %10-%20 difference to your estimation or more like %50 or %100 difference in the quality of the fruit?) Also do farmers do the same thing? I thought that farmers care more about quantity then quality... I can't wait for my seeds to sprout, seems they need a cold treatment to sprout. tried last year without success. I know it won't be the same fruit (how does it usually pans out in your experience?) but I've got a lemon that's sprouted from seed I'm really waiting for a maple seed to sprout and last one is a (half sour) cherry seed And that's all the space I have for bonsai trees in my apartment. I thought about an apple or a pear tree but I got confused, those trees are either male or female right? and therefor will not give me fruits unless I have pollens or another tree from a different sex (and a different variety even!). So I went for some easier ones
When you prune you have to choose the orientation of the bud, so the new branch will develop in the direction you want (they might start growing at a wider angle but soon curve pointing to the sky. You cut again at 30-40 cm from the first cut and repeat the process). In the open vase pruning method the objective is to 'open' the center of the tree to let sunlight in. I find the resulting shape very pleasing to the eye (a series of curving arches growing away from the center - not unsightly at all).
They are called bourse/fruiting spurs (also known as cluster bases or knobs). A flower cluster swells at the base. They appear naturally in some varieties and will produce normal flowers although, in some cases, they are less productive. Some farmers remove them, for that reason. I don't feel the need to do it.
A good information without talking. I am a big fan of central leader type pruning in apple trees, unfortunately you did not show us how to develop a central leader type tree.
You are right. I only mentioned the central leader form has an option in the beginning of the video. Over here it's mainly used in commercial orchards and the trees are supported in the first years, usually on a wire. With apple (and pears) we tend to use a dwarfing or semi-dwarfing rootstock like M9 and M26. These rootstock anticipate production, and tend to produce bigger and better fruits. The problem is that their root anchorage is very poor and, if we try to form them in the central leader type they will need support. That's the main reason for using Open Center (it's widely used over here, specially in pears) as you can keep the tree smaller and sturdier, and the winds won't make them fall over if not supported. Nevertheless, i do have some apple trees trained on a wire (a variation of Central leader on a trellis) and i intend to make a video on that type of pruning as soon as possible.
Mr. Sacadura, I've watched several of your very informative and educative videos, and did not notice you treat/protect the cuts after pruning - isn't it necessary?
I don't protect small cuts. Recent studies show that most tar based pruning pastes are detrimental to good healing. They don't allow the areas to breath and the covered areas tend to rot more easily. So, in most cases the tree should be allowed to heal on its own. Nevertheless, when making large cuts for grafting I do like to protect the areas with a thin layer of a resin based pruning paste, so water can't get in inside the grafts. When removing the paste, after one year, those wounds look fresh and are often full of insects that shelter inside, unlike wounds that were not covered (these are dry and healed).
m living in MN ( zone 4 B ). I got some Asian pear trees. I watched a lot of clips about pruning . I'm confusing about that. What's different between summer pruning and winter pruning ? which one for more fruit and which one for shape
Winter pruning is done for shape and for fruiting. Summer pruning allows to correct the tree in the same season and remove excessive vegetative growth (without having to wait a whole year to do it), so its mainly for shaping.
I was learned to leave the tops cause it provides shade to the lower fruit. you just want your branches to fill in empty areas from a home tree point of view if finish all month that's good from producers view all at once.
If you are on an area where the sun causes fruit damage you might receive that advice. In most areas, shaded fruit doesn't develop very well, so full sun is the way to go.
Long whips with hanging fruit is not a very good idea. You don't want fruits to swing too much with the wind. That might lead to breaks and damaged or bruised fruits that decay quickly when stored.
I have read a book on dwarf trees from 1906 where the author thought they would never be used commercially because they don’t live as long or grow as well. There is a group called the Felix Gillette Society formed by a man that found a grove of apple trees unattended out in a forest 150 years later after they were planted by a French horticulturist in the gold rush in California. They went through droughts and snowstorms in the Sierra Mountains. He sells some he propagated. I believe full size trees are better, just prune them to 12 feet. The roots are deeper. We have a pear tree at my Mother’s house that is probably 100 feet tall. It makes huge banging noises when pears drop on the 2 story farmhouse, again planted from seed to grow full size. Nobody cares for it much even today.
Thanks for the very interesting comment. In my farm the soil where I have my pears and apples is almost pure clay, so the trees don't grow much, even grafted on non-dwarfing rootstocks. That makes them easier to control and requires less pruning on my part.
Claro que sim, Bia. Os pessegueiros e as ameixas japonesas aceitam bem a poda em Vaso. Dentro de umas semanas vou tentar apresentar precisamente a poda desse tipo de árvores. Com árvores de crescimento mais vertical ou se utiliza o eixo central ou, ao optar pelo vaso, usam-se métodos para forçar a abertura dos ramos. Pode-se fazê-lo só com a poda mas vai demorar mais tempo e requer podar no verão de forma sucessiva para forçar o crescimento lateral de forma mais rápida.
@@JSacadura que legal! Vou estar aguardando atentamente sua publicação. Se tivesse a oportunidade de acompanhar uma poda pessoalmente tenho certeza que aprenderia muito. Gosto de suas publicações. São muito interessantes. Parabéns.
If one side is less developed (less vigorous growth) try to slow down the growth rate of the other side. You can head the vigorous branches back several times, in the spring/summer, for instance, to give the other side the opportunity to catch up. Regarding intensity of pruning, as you are doing it in the growing season, in steps, that won't cause any shock. If you prune in the dormant season you have to be careful not to remove too much, as you say. Usually no more than 1/3 of the canopy is a good rule of thumb - but it really depends on the tree and the situation.
Is it ok to prune a fruit tree while it has fruits that are still growing? I have a couple of sour sop trees whose branches are growing upward vertically. I don't want them to grow too tall.
You can prune a tree that has growing fruits. Indeed, summer pruning is a very effective way of controlling growth and several fruit types do better when summer pruned instead of winter pruning (less diseases). I have the intention of doing a video on the subject in the next couple of months.
Thank you for this video, it's just what I needed for getting comfortable with pruning. I was wondering, what's your opinion on growing fig trees; are you a fan of tree shaped or bush form? Regarding grafting stone fruit, peaches in particular, is there a specific time of season? I ask because mine are just starting to push new growth, a bit ahead of spring, and I want to do some top/heading pruning as well as major grafting on the 5 peach trees I have.
Hi. You can grow them both ways depending on the situation. I have them tree shaped in a small orchard close to home, pruned so i can reach all the branches and pick the figs comfortably (i like the tree shape better in that location). But i have others planted in rows, in another piece of land, that i am training lower, in a bushier form, allowing mainly the branches that grow along the rows. Here is not the aesthetics that matter, but functionality and productivity. Regarding grafting peaches... You can graft them in spring when the rootstocks start moving sap (through early summer) with good success. On established trees it's better to change varieties, because if you leave many branches of the old variety, competition may dry out the new grafts. You can prune in early spring but beware of cold snaps as they may injure recently pruned plants. Most comercial orchards are opting for pruning in the summer to avoid those issues.The cuts heal better and there are less fungal problems.
Hola JSacadura Muy agradecida por tu vídeo. Me gustaría realizarte un pregunta sobre la poda de formación de higuera. Recientemente me regalaron una higuera de una variedad muy poco común de Cáceres. Era una estaca enrraizada y estoy pensado en formarla. Me gustaría podar en vaso abierto con un porte medio-alto de 1,20 a 1,60 m Mi idea es despuntarla a las alturas que te he comentado. Escoger de 3 a 4 ramas con buena colocación. Y estas ramas despuntarlas para formar el primer piso. Y de cada uno de estas rama primarias dejar 2 ramas, por lo que tendríamos un 2 piso formado de 6-8 ramas. Recomiendan que las ramas primarias tengan entre 1- y 1,60 m ante del despunte. Qué relación dejarías entre el tronco y la longitud de las ramas primarias y secundarias que conforman el esqueleto del vaso abierto. Dejarías los dos pisos de la misma longitud o hay que disminuir en el 2 piso. Muchas gracias y te deseo mucha suerte en tu proyecto.
El plan de poda para tu higuera me parece bien, en termos de número de ramas y longitud de las mismas. Apenas, para el segundo piso, reduciría (casi por la mitad) la longitud - para alcanzar con facilidad los higos, y para aumentar la producción. Tengo intención de hacer un video de poda de higueras en el próximo año para esclarecer algunas dudas que me colocan con regularidad. Un saludo.
I am not a fan of the pure central leader shape, although is most times recommended for apples. You might try to use the modified center leader approach, instead. Cut the apical tip and allow lower branches to form, with some spacing between them (check the apple tree pruned in this shape in the following video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gKFkm9u6WKI.html - min 9.30 )
Most Pear and Apple varieties have a growing habits that natural tends to the central leader form. That being said, in Europe its common to guide young apple and pear trees in the Open Center shape and they also produce well. So, unless its a commercial operation, using a trellis system to support the trees where the Central Leader will be a better option, in the Home Orchard you can choose the system that you prefer.
You can prune European Plums in the Open Center style (check the following video to know more - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gKFkm9u6WKI.html ). The techniques used are almost identical. I will be doing a video on Pruning Plums and Peaches this spring.
E um video a mostrarem poda de oliveiras antigas e cheias de rebentos na raiz? Comprei uma quinta em Vila Verde, Braga que tem 12 oliveiras assim e não sei o que lhes fazer. Obrigada
How do I top off my Asian pear trees to 6-7 feet when they are at 10 ft now? They are the dwarf varieties but I want to be a certain height so the family can reach the fruits easily.
Hi. You can lower the tree to your desired height using heading cuts. When the tree bounces back with new growth (usually several new branches), thin them to only one growing in the right direction. Next season (or in the summer), if needed, repeat the heading cuts, etc. This way you can maintain the tree at the desired height.
Super nice videos! 😊 When are you releasing the video for “Forming Young Trees from a Whip”?? Coincidentally, I recently ordered 3 whips/feathered-trees, 4-6’ tall. 1 imoto fuyu persimmon and 2 ume trees. I should receive them soon. I have a lot of home plants... but this is my first time to order 2 year old fruit tree whips. I want to turn my 2 ume trees into ornamental and mature looking trees for my Japanese garden (slanted, gnarled and contorted trunks, horizontal branches, etc.)
Hi. Probably in 1-2 weeks i will release that one. I have most of the footage, now its only a matter of finding the time to do the editing :-) You can prune your persimmons and ume trees in Open Center (Vase) style guiding the branches to your liking over the years. The basic principles are the same i mention in the published video, it's just a matter of leaving more or less wood in the center (in the case of the ume) for more ornamental purposes.
@@JSacadura Awesome! I look forward to it. I also have a couple other fruit trees… Any tips on the following fruit plants? Are these “Vase-style” too?… Meyers Lemon (mine is old and about 12-15’ tall. I frequently prune it. It is healthy) Guava (mine is 8-10’ tall. I prune it as well because it grows very bushy. It is healthy) Grape that has never fruited. Maybe +20 years old and was always super bushy, big and healthy (but no fruit). So, to hopefully make fruits, I researched and followed vineyard tutorials - I recently (last Fall) pruned it heavily into a simple and sparse “T shape” (prune and defoliate in late-fall and only left spurs every couple inches on the 2 main horizontal branches). I used tall T-posts on either side of the plant, with a 6’ long 2”x2” wood for the horizontal support (instead of cable-wire like vineyards use). Loquat (mine is just a young small sapling, only 1’ tall..but seems to be growing fast) Nanking Cherry (this is really a small leggy bush I think, not really a true tree. This is also only 1’ tall and young)
The grapes need a heavier pruning to be productive and to control the growth. Prune each lateral branch (that grows from the main stem) to a maximum of 2-3 buds (or 4-5 buds , in some seedless varieties) and you should see a big difference. You can prune the Guava and the Cherry in Open Center (Gobblet or Vase style). With Sweet Cherries i am trying the Spanish Vase method and its going well (essentially, you convert the tree to a small bush - a very productive approach). The Loquat and the Lemon, specially this last one, can get away with a more round canopy and you may only thin some branches to reduce clutter and the number of limbs, letting light and air in. But they can be pruned open center also. it's a matter of personal choice. In commercial orchards, citrus are being pruned mechanically leaving a edge behind. With this approach they will produce mainly in the lighted areas.
