Thanks for this Chris. I was one of those people who's MMU2s turned into an expensive white elephant. I took it off over a year ago - it kept stopping even single filament prints loading. Its sat at the side of the room "in disgrace". This video told me Prusa had finally made an meaningful firmware update and design changes - long overdue IMHO. I dusted off my components, printed the updated parts, gave the all the moving pars a general spiff up, updated the firmware and low and behold it actually managed to print a part without intervention - not sure its ever managed that till now. I think it worth noting that i printed a few other parts beyond those mentioned and my new parts seemed to have different tolerance vs the prusa parts I received initially. I was one of the first to get the MMU2S, so i don't know if they have made design changes or the printer mine came from was just having a bad day, but my newly printed parts from my own printer are definitely of a slightly different geometry, only really noticeable taking one off and pushing the other on but still there.
Great to hear that this got you up and running. I think there were a few parts that changed over time. Probably worth trying to reprint a lot of them if a user is having issues, not a bad idea.
So glad that you let it finish. Gave a chance to see what could happen. The issue with MMU reviews are that they are too short to really make you prepared for everything you have to deal with. Thank you!
...that moment when you see a part you remixed in a video and wonder if it's yours, ...then follow the link and it is! Thanks to KevMar for the start on that M10 passthrough extruder top. Chris, glad to see you are getting good use out of it, as I still am my two. :) And all I did really was add the threads which *barely* fit, and tidied up the edges some. Keep up the awesome show!
I want to dive into the world of mmu2 and it’s great to know there are super detailed instructional videos like this to step through the gotchas. Thank you very much 👍😎🇦🇺
THANKYOU! I am one of the thousands of people who have given up. I will try again now, following your examples. I've made several mods too, including the LED ir sensor mod (which is awesome), but the push through coupler is a great idea to avoid curly filament missing the extruder gear.
Fantastic video, Chris! This ought to be required viewing for anyone with an MMU2! When I installed mine, I had intermittent issues with the IR sensor. I finally solved my problem when someone suggested I leave the sensor display status running during a print and I realized that the IR sensor was flipping back and forth from 0 to 1 during the print! I made an adjustment, and It is been pretty good since. I think people need to expect to do some manual interventions, but a huge benefit of the MMU2 over some other multi-material systems is that after the manual intervention, you can continue the print without issue in most (nearly all) cases!
I want to thank you. Your video showed me exactly what I needed to know. All the little tricks that make a good multicolor print. I really appreciate it.
Great video Chris! I have a great suggestion for some filament management! Get yourself a repkord box v2 with the 5 rewinders. It's a neat easy and perfect solution to filament management on the mmu2s. I have mine mounted to the wall above my printer. Although I am exploring options to place the box under the printer to have a straight filament path. Thanks for all you do buddy!
I second this...I have a repbox V1 and have it above and behind my MMU2. I don't have the rewind spools because I found them to be a pain in the neck, but I have some short pieces of PLA coming out of the connectors on the Repbox. The board with the connectors and short pieces of PLA through them work really well as a buffer.
Great video! your first one on the MMU2S helped me when i was setting up my own last year. It was frustrating in the beginning but once i got a custom chimney sensor printed out it became quite reliable.
Un grand grand MERCI MERCI pour avoir fais cette vidéo après avoir investis 300 euros dans le MMU il y a bien au moins trois ans et j'ai jamais réussi a la faire fonctionner vous m'avez donné espoir de la voir vivre enfin.
Thank you for these! I watched all of the MMU2 tutorials prior to ordering. Finally put mine together watching these as refreshers. Worked perfectly 1st print and found a few of the gotchas you mentioned while checking my assembly before I attempted my first print.
If you have a lot of layers without filament changes, and there is bed space, use the spare layers option for the wipe block. On some of the test prints I have been doing lately, the size reduction has been over 95%, but this is highly dependent on the model.
Really a lot of R&D from Prusa, fascinating mechanics! And a great video Chris! But as you said, the waste of plastic is a NoGo and I doubt there will be a solution for this kind of fdm printers.
Thank you for this video. I am one of those who gave up on the MMU 2 but your video inspired me to give it another shot. You covered several areas that may explain the issues I was having. Thanks again.
Love the video just getting round to using my MMU2 after 2 years done all the upgrade and watched loads of how to videos now to do the prints hate the filament management though but love the videos
Thanks Chris for a great video. It’s good for us to see that others also have challenges with the MMU2S. The new firmware/hardware seems like a step in the right direction. I’ve been successful with the MMU but these improvements should make it better. Looking forward to your solution to the buffer issue. I’ve tried the rewinding spool holders with mixed results.
Great video Chris! I had to learn the MMU2 also, it has its difficulties but once you get to know it its works great for me. I use it all the time, even in single mode. Now waiting on the wipe tower solutions you will show...The wipe tower is a wastefull thing but in this config purging is needed but.... optimisation wil be a welcome thing. Thanks for the effort for really SHOWING the things you need to do and give the tips an tricks, it helps a lot.
I can not believe I just saw this video. well done Chris. I may have to go with that selector but I will try the one with the magnet in it first I have already printed both just haven't changed them yet.
@@ChrisRiley seam to working good but the cut function ( I get a jam there, bad cut ) my tip is not so good not sure why. It goes all the way to the hot end and pulls it back.
If I remember correctly you could use infill for the purge. Could also print a duplicate from the purge if i remember correctly. The second would only work on smaller models
Hi Chris: mmu2-front-PTFE-holder must also be replaced, which has been changed for a cleaner cut, if not replaced the filament risks bending during the cut and jamming mmu2
Great video! Maybe it will inspire me to set my MMU2S rig. And ... I think you need a RepBox and RepWinders to help with the filament challenges. Thanks and be safe!
Hi Chris, great video on the MMU2. Speaking of filament spool management... do you have any videos where you focus on filament management ideas/techniques for single and multiple spool setups? Thanks!
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the reply Chris! A video would on filament management would be awesome! I’ll keep my fingers crossed! Thanks for the outstanding reviews and advice you provide! Cheers!
Great video Chris! You had me disparaged a few weeks ago during a live event, during the print someone asked about the mmu2 and your response wasn't flattering. I bought one and have the body put together, just need to get there buffer and extruder parts installed... I will rewatch this video when I connect it, lots of great information... Filament management seems to be a must!
@@ChrisRiley Watched your video a few more times and finally have my MMU2s dialed in. First successful print yesterday, no issues. Now I have a 22 hour print going and only a few filament issues... BTW - the gravity spool holders seem to need tuning, like centering and making sure the geared parts are free and fully seated... Jessie spools are interesting. Thanks a bunch! Chris
Another great video! Do you have any comments on the stock filament buffer? I don't understand why you were just sitting these on some normal spool holders. Seems like that was a recipe for the tangling you had on the pink spool. I haven't used the MMU yet , so I'm very curious... I don't know anything about the rewinding spool holders. Do you have a roundup or any specific comments on these?
@@ChrisRiley Thank you again, that was really helpful! I ended up printing a couple of these www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3729-multiple-mechanism-auto-rewind-spool-holder/comments I haven't used them in an actual print yet, but spinning by hand they seem like a good design.
I too was one of those plagued with MMU2S issues until I started replacing parts with my own designs like a custom selector ( i.imgur.com/9wzy2QR.png ) entirely omitting the blade which, apparently, is capable of just shearing off the filament. I also made changes for it too accepting a PC4-M10 Passthrough Connector like you did with the Printhead reducing the amount of bowden tubes the Filament has to go through from 4 to 2. Other than the occasional Filament getting ground to a pulp in the head and not gripping anymore I had barely any problems with my MMU2S since making those _streamlining_ changes to it.
has people tried the dragon hotend with the mmu2s here? i read a lot of people saying that hotend fixed the tips of the filament making the mmu2s really reliable
Sooo.. I just completed my assembly of the MK3S and the MMU2S. I loaded only one filament in slot one to do a print. @ 20% the MMU2S started clicking and the MK3S just stopped printing and went back the the info screen. there was no recovery of the print job.. nothing. the print head just stopped where it was so the print just started to melt while the MMU kept clicking.... this was only with a single filament so this is not very encouraging.
Chris, just got my MMU2s and your video was very informative hopefully by following your video i don't have any issues like some have had with the MMU2s. would it be better use rewinding spools (ie Like a Repkord BOX?) or with the Prusa buffer?
@@ChrisRiley Hurray! I've got lots of headache with retractable purge mechanism, so I went back to mmu2s, Maybe after your next video I have to get it up again! Love your informative videos Chris! Keep up the good work!
Do you think wall mounting the filaments would be a good option? Or will I need to find another solution so the spools won’t well... unspool. Just subscribed your videos are very informative and really high quality
Thanks for the sub Tom, I think you could make wall mount work somehow. I have been looking at these. www.prusaprinters.org/es/prints/10370-gravity-spoolholder-for-mmu2s
Awesome video as usual Chris! Any chance you'll be covering the latest Marlin MMU2 features? Possibly for non-Prusa printers? ;) Keep up the great videos!
Yes. That would be awesome. Not all of us want or can afford a Prusa but we would love to have a way to print more than two colours on our printers. Even with its history the MMU seems to be an option. Thanks Chris. Always love your videos. Keep shooting straight.
Not sure why but the Prusa setting in the Prusa slicer are way to fast. I found that in a previous video of yours the setting were great. so far has resolved all of my load and unload of Filament issue.
@@ChrisRiley I have been using the rewinder style spool holders (wall mounted and stand). The key to making those prints is to use the latest model printed spring. Early versions break the springs too easily. See www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338467 for a rundown on nearly every rewinder design.
When i bought the mmu2s it didn't have this features and worked. Like 4 of 5 prints was succesfull and the problem was the mmu2s but not entirely. The two screws that are adjustable were too loose. So when i started to understand the mmu2s now my only problem is make the filament stick to the bed. Never had an issue since then
Power outages are fairly uncommon where I live, but my biggest concern is the heated bed cooling down and the print detaching. It looked like that had begun on the purge tower. How long was it powered off?
Chris.. I am new to the hobby. I have a chiron with original firmware and ( original 8 bit mother board trigorilla) I have a mmu2 I would like to add to it . Would love to have a tutorial on just that. I would also like to know if I add a 2nd hot end and a 2nd mmu2. As I have a second kit I can build and add .. to be able to print with 10 different filaments . Would like an honest answer please
Hey Frank, that config would probably be a nightmare to setup. I am not sure how the slicer would handle that. With the Chiron, with out switch to direct drive and getting a filament sensor in the right location the MMU2 is going to be a real struggle. I might look at something like the Chameleon v2 that is made for more types of printers.
@@ChrisRiley just a quick question wouldn't the mmu2 act as a direct drive? And the filament sensor with in the mmu2 should work. In theory any way. I do have a bigtree gtr. Board I can switch to.. can run up to 11 axis. Thanks for replying.. So much for Left handed thinking...lol
@@Twisted-wizard Hey Frank, the MMU2 just feeds enough for the extruder to take over, so it's not a great extruder. The FINDA should work, but to keep the MMU2 and extruder from fighting, a filament sensor at the extruder works the best. Yes, a lot of reverse engineering here.
I'm trying to figure out how to use the IR sensor on a non-einsy board, but can't find much in the way of documentation. Has anyone tried setting it up on something like an MKS Gen_L, or SKR v1.3? I don't understand what the difference is between MMU_EXTRUDER_SENSOR and PRUSA_MMU2_S_MODE in Marlin, and I can't find any info for how to connect the IR sensor to the board.
Ah, got it. Thanks! The board I was using was a bit abused so I had to replace it with an skr v1.3, but now I can't communicate with the MMU2s at all. In your first MMU2 video you showed a quick tip on how to connect it to an skr v1.3, but I can't get it to work correctly. The combination of SERIAL_PORT and MMU_SERIAL settings seem to be different at every guide I find online, and no combination works for me. Do you still have the configuration you used for this board available? Would be very interested in taking a look at that if you do.
@@ChrisRiley Did you have to change FIL_RUNOUT_STATE to enable the IR sensor? It reports incorrectly if I don't change that to HIGH, but when I do that the printer doesn't try to load filament when I start a print..
I have a print at home that's stalled. the filament selector is slightly off and filament wont' load. is there a way to get the selector to home out during the error mid print?
You can pull the filament out and het reset on the MMU, but get ready to pause the printer, because it might continue without the filament. After the pause hit change filament and select the correct one. That might get you going again.
Did you already test the MMU cloned boards if they work and if the mmu could be attached to any other printer? And you should have shown some close up views of the print at the end :/
@@ChrisRiley Okay. Well.. i'm curious which multi material print stuff you will come up with the next videos. But i hope there is no Mosaik Palette involved 🙈
Hi Chris, thx for the videos, i have 1 question: i have built a custom 3d printer but i dont know how to right the printer specifications, what should i test to get all the specifications Thanks again
@@ChrisRiley Hi Im building from scratch, i have build the frames and im using some parts of Ender3 { Ender-3 Motherboard, Ender-3 Hotbed (235*235), the printer is CoreXY like Tronxy X5S but smaller but the specifications dont know to find it out xd
@@turkialrasheedi8597 I would start with an example config. Start with something like the Tronxy and go from there. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/config
Like @Maxwell Spock said, I am pretty sure they all work together. If you want to make extra sure pop on Prusa support chat they will be happy to answer any questions.
Your spooling situation during that video really had me spooked! I use the RepBox 2 along with some auto-rewinder spools. Here's a photo. Granted, it is only John's Basement, and not Chris's basement: imgur.com/FpVZUIt. The parts I use for my spool holders are slightly remixed here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4073625
So a new problem. I printed my first multicolor print using PLA and 3 times there was a kink in the filament. when the printer switches color with a kink in the filament it loads to the IR sensor and detects the initial filament but then the IR sensor changes states when it gets to that kink. There needs to be active monitoring on that IR sensor. the printer then fails to print a layer because it thinks it has filament but will not feed because of the kink. see my video about it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q8UhnB1W_Bk.html
Hello Chris! Great videos and work you are doing! I wonder if you have any comments about the selector with magnet? www.thingiverse.com/thing:3528314 and also people that chose to mount the mmu2s unit laying flat, like for exemple www.thingiverse.com/thing:3418267 ?
Thanks! Both mods should work just fine. I really don't have any thought one way of the other. The lay flat mod might make the filament path a little but you can adjust the length of the tube to help. The magnet in the finda sensor might help if there are strings left in there.
