Great video. It's important to note that you're lucky you didn't damage the GPU. You de-lidded it from the wrong side. Had you gone in from the opposite side, there are no resistors. The side you came in on, there are resistors which you could have easily damaged
@@timdark9282 got it ty. Tried dental floss for CPU and the adhesive is too hard for the floss to cut through so stuck with the sanded painters knife and yeah you gotta apply a good bit of pressure. Only cut myself 3 times lol. will see if it works tmrw
@@vincent.416 yes I also use the painters knife, you need to initially apply a fair bit of pressure to cut into the silicone but once your in its all about being careful and applying even pressure.
Pro-tip, to clean the IHS and Heatsink and remove all impurities, use spray on Electrical Contact Cleaner with lint free paper towels. It will clean far better than Isopropyl Alcohol and you will get slightly better contact with fresh paste. The Contact cleaner dissolves old paste really quickly which gets into the small imperfections and allows the new thermal paste to occupy that space. Electric Contact Cleaner is amazing stuff and is also useful with fixing dirty USB ports and cleaning up liquid damaged electronics.
it was actually discovered a while ago the main cause of the ylod is the 90nm rsx chip dyeing as they were produced by nvidia around the time of the bumpgate scandel. But now you essentially prevent the ylod by getting a 40nm rsx from the slim reballed onto your backwards compatible unit. I own one of these 40nm systems and the fan never gets to top speed and the system only ever gets moderately warm after hours of use compared to my og unit where the system would go to max speed within like 10 mins of even just running a ps2 game
@@ultimatespidybawlz2198 you have no clue what you talking about, the PS3 only Has an Jet Fan due to the Cell Never the RSX, If PS3 had it's fan running at high speed due to RSX then PS3 would Never have defect on Rsx
Always good getting the system cooler. With the backwards compatible ps3s its not a matter if, but when they die. so making them last as long as possible is great!
NO! Lo mejor es utilizar Thermal Paste, debido a que tengo entendido Liquid Metal tiende a corroer superficies de aluminio. Si aún así decides usar Liquid Metal, entonces sugiero la Arctic 5, la cual no es conductora de electricidad y por lo tanto, más segura. REPiTO: NO ES SUGERIBLE en el PS3, mejor Thermal Paste Arctic 4.
It’s not recommend to overclock the RSX as it would decrease it’s reliability. I used trimmed down paint knives to delid my Xbox 360 and PS3 include the southbridge on the PS3 which a lot of people miss, it’s really easy to delid that. For my Wii and Wii U i used an even thinner knife set. To further improve the cooling on the PS3 is to replace the thermal pads. I used Thermal Right pads as a result it took some degrees off. The temp difference is insane.
No need to heat it up, CPU hold thermal glue and RSX silicon which both have +250 C tolerance. Just need very thin and sharp tool (i use painting spatula) and a drop of silicon oil.
Heat softens the silicon making it easier to cut, you want to avoid is much sideways sheer force as possible (the BGA isn’t very well made on older ps3).
Just info, you can applied some conformal coating on the board around the chip with liquid metal. Just to be safe. Anyway, isn't the heatsink pad (where the RSX and CELL land on it) made of aluminum? is it safe for it to be exposed on liquid metal?
Great videos, I was considering doing this to my own PS3, but I get mixed answers on the longevity of Liquid Metal. How often would you have to replace it if at all?
Nice job! I was doing one of these once and had my hand fling like you did and knocked a capacitor off I still have the capacitor and the unit and I've yet to try and put the capacitor back on but I'm going to attempted this week I doubt it's going to work though.
My ps3 60gb l pickup comes on in Chinese switch it on then 6 secs red light.if l go in to safe mode try to update it stays on then 20 minutes later error code 8002F281
all the thermal paste renewal, and unlidding is cool, but I saw no one work on the heatpipes, and heatsink thermal conductivity...it wuld be cool to see those improvements...
quitar el IHS y poner en disipador en contacto directo con el DIE se le llama Delidding. Con pasta térmica basada en metal líquido se puede mejorar las temperaturas en hasta 20⁰C o más. Pero ojo, porque el metal líquido se lleva muy mal con el aluminio DEJAS EL IHS AMIGO ? cual delidding?
used printer paper and painters tape to cover up everything but the cell cpu and I used the same ifixit tool but i sanded it down and warmed it up and it cut through easily
I love my PS3 but it overheats and double-beeps. Would using liquid metal possibly be a permanent fix for overheating? (i heard it doesn't dry out) I'm a noob at these sort of things
The RSX didn’t have a bare spot dude. It’s stuck to the top of the IHS. The paste is just dry now and stuck to the IHS when you de lidded. Also it’s absolutely necessary to use new paste or thermal adhesive for the DDR3. Any extra heat around the RSX which is easily the most fragile and heat affected component when it comes to longevity, isn’t a good thing. Even if it’s only a few degrees it’s still a few degrees.
i'always known that thermal paste only apllies to one side of the cpu, but you applied liquid metal on both the cpus, gpus also onto their covers. Is this how liquid metal is applied? to both sides? cause thermal paste only applies to one side. on top of the cpu cover and not to the heatsink. which is it?
I might actually do this because My ps3 is overclock and this might be a better solution lol after I graduate I need to learn how to take the cpu and stuff apart before I attempt this anything I should know or learn about this is pretty good I must say 😅 EDIT : Oh and how does the ps3 perform now because I’ve been hearing the good and bad about it so I don’t know if I should attempt this or not
I am looking to get a hold of you to ask you some professional questions. How would we get in contact with you? My company loved your input and we would like to consult with you. If anyone in the comments knows how to contact this gentleman let me know, thank you.
At my slim model i have 53-54° cpu and rsx 61 with max 29% speed fun in game after 2 hours play ,and with syscon setting i have CPU 57°,rsx65° speed fun max 27%. Is ok this temperatures?
I bought thermal grizzly liquid metal and nail polish. I already have delided the rsx and I'm not planing to delid the cell because it runs cool. My only concern is about the liquid metal leaking because I hold my console vertical. Is it actually possible the liquid metal to leak?
@@corbinxtitus I use Thermal grizzly TG remove, which is specifically designed for cleaning up stuff like thermal paste and adhesives. Funny enough it’s acetone based.
@@corbinxtitus thank you. This is the first vid I’ve watched discussing thermal Liquid Metal. This this is the best outcome for these ps3 launch models? I just purchased the A01 model. It shut down twice in the first few days with only an hour of being on. First time it started back up after 20 min of rest. 2nd time it would turn on at all. The seller replaced thermal paste on the IHS’s, replaced the 15 blade fan for 19 blade fan & a 226 power supply. Since it didn’t turn on at all after the second shutdown, I decided to do a complete teardown to see if I could find anything wrong. I had to do a repaste used corsair XTM50 paste. It’s my 2nd batch & seems kind of dry compared to the 1st batch I used on my ps3 slim & my cousin’s ps4 fat. Anyway, the ps3 A01 turned right on after reassembly. What’s your take on this? Should I repaste under the IHS’s? Or could there be something else going on?
Potentially. If it's thermal throttling, yes. However, IF you manage to delid correctly, it may be possible to get temperatures low enough to overclock, which is now possible.
Hello i want to try this in couple of days i need delid so bad cause my graphics rsx are 75-80c 85c max only delided cpu with thermal paste cause it was easy and it stays at 60-65c,i want to try this with liquid metal and actually put on both rsx and cpu does yours still work and what position does my ps3 need to be vertical or horizontal and can i move it cause sometimes i go to grandma house and put it in backpack and move it and how recently should i change that liquid metal 1-2 years?
@@corbinxtitus Yes it will so hard process im so scared to do it, got it for 15$ working but it still part of my childhood and backwards compatible so sad if i break it
@@corbinxtitus None are soldered (we wouldn’t have over heating issues otherwise). Some models had a very strong thermal epoxy applied directly to the die, which will literally rip the die off the substrate if you try to delid. Sony started doing this 2500 and up. Unfortunately you don’t know which version you have until you try to delid, basically if you cut the outer IHS adhesive and the IHS won’t budge you likely have a direct die epoxy variant that cannot be delid. (I guess you could maybe check with a advanced X-ray system and enough samples, but that’s beyond unrealistic.)
@@jesusfreezus4199 I dont.. in theory I would LOVE to, and I actually used to run my own electronic repair LLC, but I just don't want to be responsible for breaking someone's device by accident, ya know?
Has anyone delid the ps3 fat a second time to see if the liquid actually works properly as these systems were not designed for such a process. Here’s a link I found. Ps4 with Liquid Metal after a few years. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zij-caOwYOY.html
You can always just re-apply. the LM doesn't "dry out" it just reacts with the impurities in the nickel coating of the IHS. Should last a few years before re-application is required. You'll know you need a re-application when the system begins to overheat.
Also what type of thermal pads and thickness should I use to replace original pads on my A01 model? Oh and should I cover the entire ps2 chips or stick with the way PlayStation did it?
@@moogish I bought a multi thickness pack and measured and cut them individually. I fully covered all my components. Also put pads on the NEC/TOKIN chips
