@@TinC33 i own 2 ps4 pro with 5.05 exploit and let me tell you i am in heaven with all these mods and the ability of using linux operating sys. man you should get yourself a ps4 with 5.05 firmware. if it is ok to use an official console?, then i wish you a happy gaming.
Lol couldnt see anything when removing it. Those modules are stress to get off the dam board. But then again i used to use a cheap chinese soldering iron
You can just replace or clean the copper contacts inside the joystick assembly without replacing the whole thing. I do it all the time. You just pry the four plastic sides off and the contacts will fall right out. Don’t worry, the solder will hold even being bent back multiple times
Ye but for people like me who has abused their L3 that aint the issue.... seems the tactile switch inside has lost its lust and I gotta press it hard as hell
Thanks will take a look as both my controllers are unusable. And I opened it up and face it a clean but didn't last long and didn't do squat for one of them. Have tried talking the contact apart will try that. Thanks
Good looking out. This is not necessary for fixing stick drift, but this is how you fix an analog stick that is getting stuck. Or if the joystick won't click properly.
@@GhostAvengerGR- maybe double check for bridge connections but the same happened to one of my controllers it’s both sticks i think something is wrong with the motherboard. I did a replacement on another controller and it’s fine
@@dannyboy643ify i think best way is to give motherboard and new analog stick to specialist and he said 2€ for replace it and it work perfect Sorry for my english
What do you measure with the multimeter? I see several people complain about drifting issues after replacing the part. Do you do that to check if the replacement joystick is faulty?
Great video, i replaced my j-stick yesterday by taking from an old pad, i had to come watch this Vid cos when i tested, it only worked when going Up, Down & to the Right only, 🤔
Hi nice to here you do not get yourself sucked into these games, knowing if we did we would not know and work on the things we do to this day. We have no interest in the game box we always like repairs soldering is something we are good at, great no, good yes. Good job, you saved this person a lot of money likely, Lance & Patrick.
Actually i was play when i was younger, but not too much, i played some game like red alert 1, medal of honour, simcity, return to castle wolfenstein, and also now i played like 3-4 times per year for 0.5-1hour max those best ever games: settlers 4, call of duty 2 online and c&c generals/zero hour. But those days, i know too many people who playing too much, their day look something like job/games/sleep/repeat
I just bought a very cheap controller, nothing out of the ordinary but surprisingly the only minor issue is a small dead zone in the joysticks. Other than that, it is actually a good controller and I was thinking why not just change the joysticks for better ones? It may be to much effort for a cheap controller but I think it would be a fun project, do you think it would be possible with the right parts? Nice video!
Sure it be possible but be sure you got at least 80-100w soldering iron. Also lot of coments here says many joystick bougt on ebay are badly quality but that one i use was cheapest from ebay and friend says it still work fine.
Great video thanks! I've never soldered before, which soldering iron should I get for this? What wattage / tempreture etc? Also does it matter which soldering tin you use or is it all the same? Would you mind linking all the tools you used in the description? Thanks again for the tutorial.
Soldering tin, doesnt matter i use 0,8mm with fux inside. Soldering iron, there are lot of ground surface on that plate, that mean that you need to head a lot of material so i advise you to use 100w soldering iron you won't need a solder station for that just enough power soldering iron and a sucking pump.
Were did you get the analogs? I bought different analogs and potentiometers from Aliexprees, but not all of them are good. Do you have any preferred place where you order the parts?
Hey a just done the exact same job on two diffrent ps4 controllers. It's the 1st soldering I've ever done, Im quite happy with the soldering the issue I have is both these controllers will not switch on anymore. Any idea what I might have done wrong?
@@TinC33 all the connections are good. I removed the thumbstick with the copper wire and soldering iron. That may have heated it up too much. From the little research I have done seems the heat gun method is the only way to do it without heating it up too much.
Very informative video man, many thanks! My 1st gen DS4's left stick has the drifting joystick and before I attempt to repair it, I'm going to test the components to make sure they're bad. I have a couple of questions: 1) When testing the joystick off the board, do you have the multimeter set on diode mode? 2) When testing the holes for contact on the board, do you probe the same hole on both sides? Thanks in advance!
Thanks, 1st no you set multimeter to ohm settings, so you can measure the trimmer then slowly move it from one to other side, and watch the meter, number must increase evenly if there are some strange jumping of numbers or even drop to zero in zome position it's fault. 2 yes measure same hole, so you check if the connection go through the hole, because you can demage them while unsoldering, use powerfull solder iron at least 80w.
Hi can you recommend me a desoldering tool to use. Budget price as it's just for this controller hopefully. I have no clue what I need so any help appreciated thanks.
anyone thinking of trying to desolder a analog on their controller. its not a quick job lol. i bought a solder kit did some testing on a broken controller and couldnt get either of the analogs on that out. i ended up cutting the excess pins length off until the surface was flat, then just yanking it out. that worked but no doubt destroyed the only circuit board. the best tip i got from this was add on excess solder. going to try that as the little bit of solder were the most stubborn.
So those little green boxes on both sides of the controller two of them broke off does that matter can I just put them back on the side of the joystick or do they have to be connected to those pins
Is it possible to replace the square holding the wheel sensor with a spare square that I have? It won’t click back and I think that’s messing with my character looking up in the air and not being able to look down (or maybe I put the wheel in the wrong direction). Also when I put the controller back together, the buttons wouldn’t respond until a minute later and I could finally press X to get past login. That and when I was in a game my character would keep aiming/firing by itself. Didn’t have this issue before I took out apart. What’s the cause of this?
Yet there is a lawsuit over cheap part that is like crappy made not sonys or Microsoft fucking fault but you will figure they will have simile design a better module instead of using a module that has basically had a lot of generations of controllers built using this module that the problems are spool old they can't fix it they can't fix it because its like your knee joint your legs wear out right well anything that is being moved around heavy from 24 hours of a fat guy playing games what did you expect its like me moving my leg sitting down your gonna wear the sensor down you can't fix stupid he'll even industrial machines need mot work to fix anything that gets worn over heavy use I had a xbox 360 controller do it after a year of heavy use so it does wear everything down there are things that never wear out and people saying they broke a bumper lol its because your being rough on it I had a controller last me until I smashed it lol
Hi nice video ! i have some time some problems soldering new stick, i have a soldering station , i take off the old stick carefully , clean all of this , install new one , but sometime there is still drift , i tried severals kind of stick, official and oem but i have really a lot of time drift problem after installing new one, do you have an idea from where it comes ?
Hey man, I followed the tutorial and it worked well...facing a slight issue after reassembly. The controller turns on okay and also goes into pairing mode, but it does not appear on the Bluetooth list for any device. it also does not glow yellow like it normally used to when I plugged it into a USB port, could you please tell me what I may need to fix? TIA
@@yuvansharma1603 check visually and if you see something strange follow those line and measure it with multimeter if the line is ok, othervise fix it with a tiny wire.
What is the difference between 2.3k and 10k potentiometer. I see these 2 types are available but it is not specified on the site. I might get either when i recieve it. What effect will they have on the controller.
uf hard to say, maybe some connection disorder, or some bad capacitor make noise on the signal, but would say you got bad luck with the component, specially if you buy all at once (all from same series) do always drift on one axis or booth? it try to replace only the potentiometer from old one.
I use desoldering gun from banggood (you can see review on one of my videos) but you can desolder with basic soldering iron also, but use at least 100w one.
Hi, great video. I have a question for you. I test the new potentiometer outside and i get 5ohms across the axis like you mentioned, between all the pin combination. However when i install it in the circuit it is lowered to 3.4ohms is this normal, and the resistance is not changing either when i mive the stick. Does this mean that I have a short in the circuit board? Thanks
@@TinC33 so it is normal that the resistance is lowered when it is soldered in the circuit? Still if the resistance remains the same as i move the joystick it means that something is faulty right?
@@TinC33 yes, I think that I must have sorthed out something in the board when I removed the old one. The new joystick is sure to be good as it works perfectly when i bench tested it
@@danielvella20 check the board lines and solder points arround the area you working, you may just broke some line on the pcb, wich can be fixed easily.
Hi im planning on doing this ive ordered joystick parts from ebay will they function the same as original joysticks the seller also said these arent made by sony i want to know as i play lots of shooter games thanks
@@TinC33 hi ive followed your steps and managed to get out the joystick but ive accidently burnt the led strips port (the cable which is plugged out first) and now the cable wont fit thru and i dont think i can replace it
Hi, can you please help with the link for the good replacement parts? I've got 5 different analog sticks from ebay and they all bad. Had to buy non working controller to fix my issues..
@@TinC33 that is the problem, you can't just the take cheapest one from China... all of them is not good.. i did that mistake already... all you can use from them is white disks..
Very nice video!!! Just a question: I see there are different analogs, for example, one made of metal for Slim/Pro controllers. Can I use it with the Old v1 controller? Thanks!
So far manged to break one controller trying to do this i think im just send the other to repair cuz im not so steady with this kind of stuff 😐 but still very good tutorial 👌
Hey I did this repair on the right stick. Now it seems like the dpad or left stick is stuck on left but only at certain times. Like on psn menu it keeps scrolling left but in a game my character does not walk left so i assume dpad. Never had this problem before. What did I do wrong or any suggestions please?
@@TinC33 haha if i knew how to do that it may not be broken. Any vid links to follow to check all connections. Replacing stick was my first solder job. I thought I did good. I remove old stick and put in new one thats it. Idk why the other buttons would be affected.
@@johndoegta2189 you can just carefully visually check, go from each pin you solder, and check if the line on pcb ok, and that there is not some short between two pin when you solder... It's hard to say, but i got few comments here that some button didn't work after replace or other joystick start shifting etc, and everytime was problem missing connection or short between pin they soldered.
I tried this and the new stick does not work. L3 works but the movement does not it is just stuck slightly to the left. What do you think the problem could be?
DeadSh0tZHyper not yet ... my dad works 3rd shift who has a soldering kit so that I can attempt unsolder the 3 holes from broken green box to solder a new one I got from a 8 pack from Amazon for about $7 with the white sensors in them if I make sense
Overheat, or you pull the leg too hard without desolder it 100% so you broke the circuit board, but don't worry, if there was just a ring arround the hole just leave it's just to hold in position, but every ring at least on one side of board, is connected to a wire wich go further to pcb, find that route and solder leg here, you may use a piece of wire to connect.
@@InSynnc23 i don't know, i don't own a ps, that was first time i was holding remote... Try to find some broken remote on ebay. But are you sure you demaged toomuch, you just need to connect all the broken ways ;-)
@@TinC33 yeah I messed it up really bad lol, gonna have to try again with a new motherboard. I had my solder iron set to 350 degrees Celsius, are you sure the rings came off coz too much heat?
@@InSynnc23 i guess you got too weak soldering iron, you need at least 80W or better 100W, otherwise you heat too long, and heat entire board instead just a spot. But that the ring go off i would say that you pull joystick too hard whan there still some solder hold it to the ring.
I need help. I ordered a controller on ebay and the R2 button doesn't work. I've figured it's from the little square module and that some of the soldering parts are loose. How do I tighten it?
uf, as i say i don't got a PS so i really don't know wich button is r2, so really don't know what you talking about, sorry. But if there some wire unsoldered solder it back and it should work
Good video. Next time lower the music or throw away the background music because it is hard for me to understand you because the music is overpowering your voice because your voice is soft so a balance is needed.
Wow.. this is very helpful and interesting. I have the same issue "but" sadly I don't have the welding equipment that you've used. ): Is there another way to do it ???
350 to 400 will be enough, but more important is that you got enough powerfull soldering (about 80-100w) otherwise the temp decrease too fast and won't reach 400 degree.
Zdravo, supr video, zanima me pa, kje se da dobiti joysticke tu pri nas v Sloveniji če mogoče veš? Naroču sm jih žže par iz kitajske pa nikoli ne delujejo pravilno.
Cetudi bi imel sreco in res nasel v slo bi bili zagotovo kitajske izdelave, precej komentarjev tule je da tudi po menjavi ne deluje, ne vem kot pravim sem to stimal za kolega, ki mi je prinesel tudi nadomestni del, baje najceneši iz ebaya, pravi pa da deluje super, vec ne vem.
@@TinC33 Hvala za odgovor, sej sem pogledu problem je, da potenciometra na joysticku ne merita skozi cel lok ampak začneta šele pri nekaj stopinjah, original pa meri skozi cel lok. No vseeno hvala :)
@@MrSlovenijaGaming sam pri tem jojstiku ni uporabljeno celotno območje, to so ponavad posebni trimerji z določenim kotom delovanja, ponavad piše na njem upornost zraven pa delovni kot naprimer 45stopinj navaden potenciometer deluje po celotnem obmocju 3/4 obrata (270stopinj) Če si kupil celoten joystick z rocico, tipko ter trimerjema bi moglo bit enako...
@@TinC33 , Yes. I was curious about how to test for bad components. It was hard to hear what you said when you found the bad part. You were testing resistance. Were you expecting high resistance if the part is bad? If so, would it have been possible to use resistance to tell whether it was bad without desoldering it?
@@jpvoodoo5522 dardly, better to desolder them, but can try, measure between middle and any outer leg, resistance must increase evenly, if resistance sudenly jump on some point it's dead.
Huh.. I see so the problem with this analog stick is it wasnt reading it properly. But what about analog sticks that wont reset their position? Are they just worn out? Im a pc player but i enjoy controller on pc sometimes maybe you should try it too
I'm wondering why Game controllers get some new useless updates .. while something like this problem .. until now has no new replacing technology or any updates or changes
So i tried doing this with my soldering iron but the manufacturer solder just won't melt not even at 420°C. So you're saying that i should put 60/40 lead on the old solder first? Man, i was so disappointed when i couldn't do it.
Try to melt a bit of new solder wire on the old one firstly, if still don't go you'll need a more powerfull soldering iron, mine soldering station in this video is 80w.
@@TinC33 Thank you for replying. I have a Yihua 939D+ with 75W. I think it's good enough and can get up to 480° but that lead free solder is on another level. I would leave the tip on the solder for like 3 seconds and nothing.
@@thingshappen9199 3 sec is not enough, put tip on old solder, than just add a bit new soldering wire with flux, so tip will ger better contact with old solder, and heat will transfer better, but maybe you'll need 5,10 or even 20 seco ds to melt entire solder. It's problem because it's solder to a large area of pcb, so you need to heat up big area to lose the old solder.
Just put a tiny piece of wire through the hole and solder on booth side, if there are stick pin into that hole you don't need the wire, just soler on booth side so you got contact through the pcb.
There is a problem because there's a bunch of cooper to to heat, 30w will need many time to heat up, so you may melt someting you don't want to, 80w will melt solder instantly, 50w is limit.
@@RedMokaa it's not about temperature, there are lot of material to heat, wich "soak" heat faster than soldering iron can produce it, also 100w got same temperature as 15w... Try to solder thick wire like 16mm2 with 30w or 100w and you'll see the difference.
I wanna change them with my other broken controller cause on my other one when I press down on d pad it pressed right d pat too and it's so annoying, on my second controller i have high stick drift but on my main one i don't so I wanna swap the analog sticks from the main one to the stick drift one
its so hard desoldering the original joystick legs. my solder has adjustable temperature, i set it to 450C but it doesnt has any effect anyone has similiar issues?
Help plz, when i tried to put back the ribbon that connects the led light to the board, the light is not working anymore! Any idea what seems the problem? I tried different ribbons, still no luck, help would be appropriated guys
I did this perfectly the first time but my siblings somehow managed to mess it up again so now the y axis doesnt work and it's not even 6 months old and I responded it and it still doesn't work
Well after 6 - 8 months of playing everyday the joystick can wear out, it can cause drifting even if you push it very very lightly. Dont go hard on your controllers, they are expensive almost like buying a new game.
@@internetcrap7 i bealive you, there's always some difference in a different price range product, specialy product like this one, where every detail can prevent smooth and accurate moving, but as fried say, controller still work and look like it's good for him, it also depend how mmany you playing, i'm rc guy so i know the difference between FUTABA or GRAUPNER yojstick and some chinesse, real brand gimbal runs so smooth... But some beginner will never notice the difference.
@@internetcrap7 which ones are the expensive reliable ones? I can only see the same one sold everywhere. I noticed in one RU-vid video they mentioned you can get more expensive ones but I can't find it anywhere
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