PS4 Persistent White Light of Death (WLOD): Bad Pin 13 Resistor + Encoder IC Trolling 

Cheers mate. Hopefully you'll have the same result as I afterwards - a working PS4! :-)

Cheers mate.

@@AndrewPaul how much does an HDMI ic replacement repair cost

Hi dear, can you give me the refereces of the diodes you have changed? I find them nowhere think you for your help

seems to be a 26k ohms resistor

I lift them from scrap boards to be honest - got quite a supply so never bought any.

Most probably an Encoder IC failure - to be honest that's what most end up being.

Andrew Paul guess thats my next test

Thank you :-)

Cheers mate! :-)

+Andrew Paul May i send my ps4 to you HDMI port i'll pay $160

Cheers mate.

Same problem Did u fine the solution

Hi, Yes if you drop me a message on: ytandrewpaul@outlook.com I can send you some details over etc for mail-in addresses etc. Many thanks.

I did measure it a good while back but cannot find the post. If I think on next time I'm with a board I'll check it out.

I manage to found it on a working one and it's a 26K resistor

Hi, mine is an Amscope SM-4TPZFRL. This video was shot with the bundled 3MP USB camera but I have since upgraded to a HDMI camera as an aftermarket upgrade which can be seen in the later videos - the capture device it's plugged into and RU-vid encoding doesn't do the image quality justice sadly.

Indeed - use these for replacements: ROHM Zener Diode, 5.6V 100 mW SMT 2-Pin SOD-723

Thank you so much your a life saver. Also think i got an open coil near the hdmi one of the 4 any idea what value they are or should i just link it through. Had lots of shorts on smd caps on bottom side of board under hdmi chip removed hdmi ic they went away. So got hdmi ic on order too. The previous owner butchered the blu ray drive whole top mech missing. Luckily still got bluray drive board. Any idea which blu ray mech / drive supposed to be in cuh-1102a with bdp-025 blu ray drive board with sab-001 main board. Do the ps4s still boot up without a blu ray connected? Thanks sorry for all the questions

I'm not sure from the top of my head but I will check if I remember next time I'm near a board.

Can't ask for more than that. Thank you.

How long did it take?

@@melodolic9908 not l long after I got the sheild off. Less than 10 minitues. You don't want to use heat on the motherboard too long. just turn your heat gun up too 485 Celcious but not the fan. You don't want to use too much air flow because you'll blow off the components around the Encoder IC. You'll to use fairly low air flow but get the gun close to the Encoder IC to heat the tines. WAIT to touch the Encoder IC untill the tines and pads are shinny THEN JUST barely tap the IC to see if it moves if it doesn't then it needs more time to heat up DON"T TRY TO JUST LIFT IT OFF!! You'll pull the pads if you don't wait until the solder is soft. If you REALLY GENTLY tap it and it moves ONLY THEN can you lift it safely.

@@ryanlawrence8979 so you just heat up the solder on the encoder and push it down ?

Have you checked the seating of the QFN via a microscope at all? They're super-tricky to seat properly and can look fine by eye until you get them under a scope.

@@AndrewPaul yess i will check that but what is the value of that resistor ? it's like a ps4 Fat 1.055 ?

@@bifoutdjamel same problem. Did u find the solution

Hi Gavin, Just sent you an email back bud, many thanks.

Definitely encoder :)

@@AndrewPaul yes now I'm sure because also one side of a filter was blown . My customer said that he will play at 1080i ... So no problem . After bypassing the filter I get signal at 1080p but it's all fog and full color screens (red green and don't remember) so it should be the encoder . Also the board developed a strange problem that I couldn't isolate , and It's not surely due to my work . New hdmi port perfectly soldered , no OL , no shorts to ground only works half disassembled in ps4 . If I reassembled the board I have to flex it to make it work due to a false contact that I couldn't find . I solved this by flexing the board with a plastic spacer . Customer accepted to play @1080i and not remove hdmi anymore , elsewhere an aftermarket ps4 would be cheaper than fixing everything

Definitely the way to go first of all if the port has no signs of visual damage. If it checks out fine it's likely to be a failed Encoder IC.

Hi, if you drop me an email to ytandrewpaul@outlook.com I'll send you the info over to mail it in for inspection. Cheers.

That would be a fibreglass pencil

Andrew Paul ok thank you so much

Start off with the right tools mate and the rest will follow. I use a Jovy iSolder 40 with a range of Hakko T14 tips and highly recommend it.

Andrew Paul I have all the tools I need. I'm just cautious of soldering irons as I don't want to buy a dud and it end up exploding in my face lol

If you've got the filter then you can try and reattach it. I do work on them but it depends where you're based.

Check the HDMI port for visible damage and loose pins. Check the new IC for bridging / loose pins. Check EMI filters for continuity across the two coils and for cross-continuity. If you find one of the coils is bad, replace that filter. If you have cross-continuity, replace the filter. Check TH2001 for continuity - if it's open, replace it. Check the larger caps behind the HDMI port - they should be 10uF. If they're out of spec, replace them along with the 3/4 voltage regulators within the circuit. Another daft one - check the orientation of the diodes. If this is a machine which has been previously repaired, you can find that people often blow them off the board and replace them in reverse orientation. The line on the diode should mate with a small 'dot' printed on the board by each diode site. If they're reversed, switch them around. Good luck!

Hi @@AndrewPaul , Im getting the same issue, im getting 0.542v on diode mode in 13rd pin but the resistor next to diode is reading OL, I replaced it and also checks ohms value of that resistance out of the board and it has 27K ohm so I think it's good, I checked filters like you test it in other videos and all are good, I replaced HMDI encoder. Do you know where have connection resistance and the cathode of the diode? I tested all but I couldn't find the error and I don't have a good board to comparate values. Thanks in advance. Sorry for my bad English but I'm learning it.

Yes you could indeed do that - remember that for best practice you should remove the resistor from circuit to measure it unless the value is definitively known from a schematic diagram etc.

+Andrew Paul no chance getting schematics off Sony though lol. thanks for replying. and thank you for your videos..very informative and usefull

Was the value of resistor correct ??. 25K.

alfredo robert I am reading 25k ohm on mine too. but I am reading OL on diode test. I wished I knew the value in ohms.

What is the value of resistor?

Can someone fix it? I am reading 27K ohm also I replaced it but Im getting OL on diode test.

Defo smaller than 0805, I'd try 0603.

Andrew Paul Thanks, buddy!

Thank you :-)

Well first off you'll need to ascertain what you have and what you don't so head to my Xbox one light of death video and find the standby voltages diagram in the description. Test all the points and see which voltages you have and which you don't with a multimeter and go from there. If it went near any BGA then these will need lifting.

Also any places which have corrosion / obvious spill damage will need rework.

It's not a happy answer - don't waste your time on it but see here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0T2-iCBhkuQ.html

Usually the diode shorts to ground and is generally caused by a bad Encoder IC. I've not seen the diode itself actually fail as yet. In circuit the resistor measures approx. 26kohms on good boards.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8Gi6B-uatuc.html

thank so much!! :)

Which board is this on? Do you have a photo of the board with the missing components on at all? If it's an SAA/SAB-001 as per the video, there aren't any diodes around the Encoder IC on those particular boards - just resistors, capacitors and some common mode chokes.

As in powers up for a few seconds and powers off? Can you restart the machine via the power button again afterwards or do you have to pull power first? If it will repeat the action then APU most likely. If not, PSU.

Yes the PS4 will boot up but when try to put it in safe mode it just shuts off. I can turn it back on using the power button but no safe mode. Removing the hdd won't boot into safe mode either, I just get a solid white light. I was able to use the system via remote play but I did a factory reset in a attempt to fix it so I can't do remote play anymore because I lost all my previous settings.. But when I looked in the video settings all the resolution options said not supported so Idk what the issue is I tried different cords tvs etc. idk what to do.

Sounds like either a damaged HDMI port or bad Encoder IC.

I think someone once said they used these: DLW21SN900HQ2L

Possibly so - HDMI is HDMI. Take a look at pin 13 (CEC) and trace it back to see if it's there.

It's likely to be a failed HDMI Encoder IC.

Oh,can it be fixed or replaced???

Yes it can - if you're a competent solderer then it can be done easily with hot air.

Andrew Paul thanx but how would i know that indeed it is the fault lies in IC encoder???

99% of the time if the port checks out fine, it's the Encoder at fault.

You're welcome :-)

Thank you :-)

I've got a ps4 thats completely dead, no power, lights or beeps. I've tested the power supply and i am getting 5v and 12v so thats fine. any thoughts ?

Which pins are you missing?

@@AndrewPaul I sent you a Twitter message with a photo of the missing pads.

@@AndrewPaulthe missing pad is grounded, that doesn't look right

@@AndrewPaul the pad I'm missing is grounded, so it should be fine to use a jumper wire to connect to another grounded point right?

I don't check Twitter all that often to be honest - any idea when it would have been sent over? If the pin is ground (and is supposed to be) then you can leave it off safely.

Those I've seen with this issue have been on-set of APU problems.

I forgot something (Sorry), the screen of my tv is black but the console works fine, if I put my psvita via remote play I can still play games with my ps4. The only thing is that the video signal disappear but the console works properly. What can cause this Video issue?

+heckran1 In that instance of say you've got a bad HDMI Encoder IC or an issue on the circuit which controls it.

Hi - yes I do. Drop me an email to ytandrewpaul@outlook.com with your details and location and I'll get a quote to you. Many thanks.

Andrew Paul thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I’ll email you this morning 👍

Thank you my friend.

It most probably will eventually.

You should make a video about how to fix the XBOX360, I have one XBOX360 that plays games, but after like five minutes it stops completely, a few minutes before it will show blurry the screen, and then just suddenly keeps on doing that, I don't know what it is. Do I send this XBOX360 to you as donations?

As long as it's an MN864729 it will work fine. Serial numbers don't matter.

If you're UK based then yes absolutely. I manage my mail-in repairs via eBay - the links to my services are as below: www.ebay.co.uk/usr/lufcfan2004 Many thanks.

Resistor in the power supply?

Yes

There are lots of them. Which one did you replace and why? What troubleshooting of the supply have you done and what symptoms is the machine having?

IT COMPLETLY DEAD NO LIGHT I FOUND A RESISTOR WAS OPEN I CHANGE BUT NOTHING

Check it again you'll probably find it's open again. You need to find out why it blew open to cure it. This resistor wouldn't happen to be marked 'F3' on the board by any chance would it?

It's usually an RSX issue. Change the thermal compound under IHS and see if that resolves, otherwise it can point to a defective RSX.

I have change the thermal compound can i change the RSX?

Have you changed the thermal paste beneath the IHS or just the stuff you can see on top? Changing the RSX is complex work but can be done if you're competent with BGA rework.

Hi, yes it can. Use Rohm VDZT2R5.6B or equivalent.

It relates to NOR. No idea how to fix - never did much with the PS3 flash.

Should have been I.

Most probably the Encoder IC has failed.

+Andrew Paul strange ! because I just changed it but all try another one to be sure

Check port against pinout and EMI filters.

No - Yours was a fairly simple port swap only.

8002f2f0 error relates to flash. I don't know how to fix it - I never did any work with PS3 flash.

thank you:))

Sounds like you may have a loose pin somewhere. Give each pin on port and IC the nudge test with a tweezer blade.

ah oh heres my new update the unit shows some display on recovery mode then it just blink then black screen white light then blinking 480p

and i tested all the caps and diode over the hdmi. no shorted at all.

heres my update today... ive got my display 1080p rgb full range sound no issue i can play.. but but the white light still on lol it still resonating white no blue light after booting

thanks the console is ok now..

Good luck! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0T2-iCBhkuQ.html

Sure thing - it's an Amscope SM-4TPZ-FRL-3M. Excellent piece of equipment and I very highly recommend it! I'm currently upgrading the 3MP camera it ships with for a 1080p HDMI model so image quality and frame rate should be dramatically improved in a few weeks time hopefully!

The continuity test that produces an audible tone requires the resistance to be lower than a certain value, about 20 ohms and that resistor after / before the diode has 26,7k ohms, so that's your multimeter does a problem. Read the instructions for the continuity meter and do not expect it to beep when you are measuring a resistance that is higher than the range it is supposed to beep for. The Fluke meter that Andrew have, which is a high quality brand in N.A. has two functions on the continuity test. One: Is as a continuity tester that buzzes if res. is < 25Ω and shuts off if over >250Ω. Two: Testing semiconductor or Diode, it will show 2.4v in the fwd direction and OL in the reverse, if diode is shorted, then it shows

Hi, yes it's possible to kill it with hot air if you're too rough with it. The resistor came from a donor motherboard - no purchase necessary.

Ok thank you. and if we have no other motherboard, you know where to buy its component..?

Mouser, RS, Farnell, Element14 etc etc will all have them. Easier to lift them from a donor though.

Andrew Paul