Its a Beemer, a cmp sensor is just the start...probably needs a waterpump, battery, injector, frm, coils, ecm, oil leaks fixed and coolant leaks remedied...😂😂😂
Yes, and even with those low miles, it also needs motor mounts, ball joints, new radiator, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, new timing cover, an entire ridiculous excuse the Germans have for crank case ventilation system.
RU-vid's telling me I need to fall asleep but I'm up late cooking dinner actually and watching Ivan perform his magic. Ahh the lovely BMW Chime...soothing
Well at least when you drop a tool it can't fall down into the engine bay. 🤗 Final diagnosis. Owner needs to get a cat, and he is good to go for another 30K miles. part 3 - Still tearing down engine to remove the cam sensor. 😒
Hi Ivan, That's a nice BMW. Keeping fingers crossed it's only the exhaust cam sensor. I just had to replace the water inlet on my 2006 Toyota Sienna van with 3.3L V6. The water inlet broke where the lower radiator hose is attached. Hate those plastic parts. Dorman had an aluminum replacement that fit like a glove and came with a thermostat for $45 and change. Took me three days working only an hour at a time due to my chronic low back pain. Looking forward to part 2.
The problem with these cars at low mileage is that many components are on original design versions. These cars were problematic from new and BMW gradually fixed all the issues over many years.
A friend's daughter had her eyes on a beautiful turbo BMW at a used car dealer, I forget what model it was. She asked me to take a look at it before they bought it. First thing I noticed was it was leaking oil from just about every orifice on the engine. Took it for a drive and engine had no power at all, never even felt like the turbo was coming in. Seemed to idle decent but when I removed the oil cap it literally shot off the valve cover and the engine would completely drop a cylinder. Put cap back on and cylinder came back. And to top it off, no codes for anything. Told her to run as fast as she could.
One of my customers owns one of these. I've done a lot of work on it. The throttle body inlet pipe is a weak point. They like to crack and blow right off the throttle body. BMW updated the design and if you buy a new one from them it's beefed up. They're like $300 though. Canister purge valves are a common failure point. The weatherstrip above the windshield turns to crap, as does the passenger side front door pull. All easy fixes. It's a fun car to drive.
Glue Traps. I place at least 2 glue traps tied down (with cable ties) in the engine bay. I found a dead mouse on a trap in the engine bay on my 98 Ford F 150 last week.
A long time ago.......this car was the first car that I learned how some turbocharged cars boost control works in reverse where the wastegate is normally open. That kicked my ass for a while. I was so used to the traditional wastegate normally closed until given a boost reference.
Looks good Ivan you found the problem in minutes...or did you? I would be suspicious of the ECU possible rodent damage or water intrusion, looking forward to part 2! I just turned 325,000 miles in my 1992 525i 5 speed gosh I love this car, I feed it over 6k on the tach all day long the thing is bulletproof.
The typical repair approach would be to follow the direction of the cam sensor codes and replace the exhaust cam sensor. It's probably not crazy expensive and if it doesn't fix it, you'd diagnose a wiring or other issue. And having a new sensor (plus the old one) isn't a terrible outcome.
Might not directly be a sensor issue. The +5V is pulled up from the ECM through a resistor and the sensor pulls the line down, but if there is too much resistance on the signal line (bad wire or wonky contact) then the pull-up may not be strong enough to take it all the way to 5V. That's also consistent with the signal level dropping when it heats up. Unplugging the sensor means it's not sourcing any more current, so it will always pull up to +5V.
Garage Queen. Sensor failure at 15-16 years and low mileage. Time not mileage... hermetic seals fail, capacitors fail, and fuse/antifuse logic devices of that era are beyond the typical end of life (10 yr mfg guarantee). Heat is the enemy and those underhood beauty covers not only retain heat but give the mice a nice place to hide. Some people don't like using rodentcides but they work more efficiently than any trap and keep mice urine and feces out of everything that maybe stored in the garage along with the cars.
Advise green DECON cubes in the car for the rodents, same issues here... Performance vs Emssions faults... OE "performance faults" will cause limp mode.
I guess the wiring integrity is good from the test leads to the ecu but from the leads to the sensor could still have issues. Bmw uses twisted pair to combat signal interference and if a mouse were to expose a little copper then piss on it that could cause a fluctuation like this.. and the nest was right in between where the leads were tied into the copper and the sensor itself.. more than likely its the sensor but ruling out the copper totally in my opinion is not 100%.. is like 85% likely its the sensor.. and as a poor person for a part that costs more than 20$ its worth my time to verify complete wire integrity..
It amazes me the amount of financial damage a small rodent can cause to a vehicle. How many parts cannon misfires have been made because Mickey and his freeloading friends decide to squat inside someone’s ride. Crazy that this may not be mouse related. Ivan for the win again!
Hi farmer hear I was in charge of a large garbage repair shop that damaged mice and rat do is omg the pee is so bad if they pee on the printed board bam gone BX cable your friend
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