Thank you for the video! Very helpful and good info that helped me make a good decision. I find that important info like this is hard to find, and can only be found on smaller channels. I was a machinist for a few years, but due to layoffs then COVID19, not any more. Hope to get back into it, particularly to do with firearms. Love this type of stuff
I'm a CNC machinist (25 years) i checked my 1 piece on the CMM and its within .001 or better concentricity between the two rings. Flat within .001 and bottom to centerline within .001. Outstanding!!
This video saved me from making the wrong decision. A guy claiming to be a "engineer by trade" told me today when I asked him which would be a better ring system to go with for extreme long range he told me that the single ring system would be the more precise of the two. Very glad I saw this video and didn't just go by his advice but off of testing proof keep up the good work!
Hahaha!! “Idk why I do this...i guess it makes me sleep better...”. I feel ya man. It’s called ELR OCD... I appreciate the info and your attention to detail.
Thanks for these two videos. Please do more! I just installed the Spuhr hunting series on my 280AI after putting a Spuhr ideal mount on my range rifle. One thing that concerns me about the hunting series is the two small rail clamps and the 4 small bolts spec-ed at 25 inch lbs. The rest of it seems rock solid. I would have preferred a one piece rail clamp and some heavier cross bolts. Time will tell. I am trusting Spuhr on that one. If I were a machinist I would whip up a one piece rail cap for it.
Great video with so much useful information. Thanks for doing it and for not having a long intro with a montage of you shooting (like so many do). Your answers in the comments section were as helpful as the video. If you bed the base and rings with JB Weld is it hard to remove them? Does it damage the finish? Thanks again!
I think 1 piece like you have shown hands down wins. I prefer steel though. I have a cheap 1 piece alloy with skinny ring caps and my scope is drifting away with recoil. Today we have ring caps with bubble level and short piece pic rail for accessories and weight stresses the mount with high recoil. I’ll match steel to receiver for strength and coefficient of thermal expansion and torque.
I know this is old, but to properly mount a set of rings they have to be lapped. Just setting rings and dropping a scope has never been the correct way to mount a scope.
Correct. But I am not mounting a scope in the video. Just showing the differences of strength and flex in the metal. Tho the one pieces are good enough that they don’t necessarily need lapping. The purpose of lapping is to correct alignment. If the rings are in perfect alignment then lapping is not required. However, when I mount a scope I take it a step further and do lap the rings to make room for my bedding compound. Lapping coupled with bedding is by far the most superior mounting method
Man of course knowing everything is almost perfect is good but those 1 piece rings would work perfectly, i would prefer a lighter and less bulky 1 piece mount to that huge mount for hunting. It seems like you are taking all this a bit too seriously. Who cares until there are no marks on the scope and the scope tracks well and maintains zero?
It’s just a NightForce Mag Mount. They are available from many vendors like MidwayUSA and Midsouth Shooters Supply and have many options for height and elevation compensation. Figure out what you need for the shooting you plan to do and select your options accordingly
I did not lap the rings prior to the testing in the video. I will lap the rings prior to bedding them to the scope body. Not to fix any alignment issues, but so there is a little more room for the JB Weld. Bedding scope rings is the ONLY way to get 100% ring contact on the scope body for maximum hold. Lapping alone can never achieve much more than 75% contact. Plus the JB weld bedding eliminates ever having to worry about getting scope ring marks on your optic since the fit is so perfect. One of these days I will try to post a video on bedding and lapping scope rings
Height of the rings completely depends on the scope you intend to use and how far you plan to shoot. Getting a set of "high" rings or one piece mount is a pretty sure bet that it will accommodate all of the large 50mm and 56mm objective scopes. I have never found a reason for "extra high" mounts outside of bench shooting where you don't want your face resting with pressure on the rifle to get a sight picture. Or perhaps ELR shooting where you might be using an extremely compensated base (50 MOA or more) with a large optic. However, a high set of rings on a hunting rifle with a 40mm objective scope is gonna look a little ridiculous ;) Anything 40mm is pretty much gonna be medium rings. In some cases you can use low rings with smaller scopes (40mm or less) so long as your barrel contour doesnt interfere with clearance of the scope objective. But I would definitely measure first before ever selecting a set of low mounts. There are ways to measure for the correct height scope mounts that allow for adequate barrel clearance, but you would need a scope and the intended rifle in hand. As for MOA compensation on a base rail or one piece mount, again that depends on the scope you use. If shooting 1,000 yards or more with a scope that only has 50-65 MOA of vertical adjustment, then you would probably want a 20 MOA base or mount so your adjustments are close to center for best glass clarity at those extended ranges. Whereas using a scope that has 120 MOA of internal adjustment for 1,000 yard and under shooting, an optic of that level doesn't really require any additional help from a MOA compensated base or mount to get you on target while still maintaining good optical clarity. Now if you plan on shooting 1 mile, or maybe even 2,000 yards or more, you really should have a scope with at least 100+ MOA of internal adjustment and also look into bases and mounts that offer 40 MOA, or more, elevation compensation. Problen with that is your optical clarity is not going to be the best it could be at closer ranges like 100-300 yards. So the type of shooting you have planned for the rifle and the scope you want to use has to be decided first, then worry about finding the right mounts. Hope that helps
So what if you put this one piece on a production built rifle reciever, do you still get same results? When you put high quality rings and scope base on a high quality reciever I can see how all this would not need to be lapped however change one of the elements to mass produced product wouldn't that show the error or flaw your talking about that would cause scope damage?
A one piece mount will give better alignment no matter if the receiver is mass produced in a factory or custom built. Custom actions have their flaws as well so dont let that fool you. I have to lap 2 piece rings on custom actions to get good alignment just the same as I do on factory receivers. As far as scope damage...I have only encountered 2 actions in my experience with friends rifles where the receiver scope rail was so out of whack that it twisted the scope so badly it actually jammed up the internal elevation and windage adjustments. A full bedding job under the scope base rail and lapping the rings corrected the issue, but the scopes were not adjusting accurately and needed to be sent in for repair.
@@dynamicaccuracy7398 thank you for reply. Just starting to get into PRS with entry level stuff and trying to learn as much as I can. Just this weekend I saw something that made me eat my words. A 2 piece mounted system was way out of alignment. I tried to lap but lost patience and mounted a Game Reaper One Piece Mount to see if it was aligned. To my surprise it was and made me realize that you can get aligned scope mount without lapping just gotta buy right stuff.
Exactly right Chad. Nice work :) That is exactly why I only use one piece uni-mounts on all of my serious rifles, especially if they are wearing expensive optics. Still use two piece rings on my varmint rifles since they generally have cheaper optics and less recoil. But I still lap and bed the rings and bases nonetheless.
@@dynamicaccuracy7398 I started bedding the rings as well and really like the results. I bought a Meopta Optika6 3-18x50 for my PRS build figured it was a great place to start before I started to get serious. I'll bed the rings when I get the right ones.
I'm a big Meopta fan. I think their optics are hands down the best value for the money. I used to have the Meopta Meostar B1 HD 10x32 binoculars and they have awesome glass (have since 'slightly' upgraded to the Leica Noctivid 10x42 binos). I also still own and use the Meopta Meostar S2 HD spotting scope. It has some of the best glass available on the market at any price point. And although I havent tried one yet, I am very interested in the new Optika6 lineup. I plan on replacing a couple riflescopes with the Optika6 4.5-27x50 here pretty soon. Meopta is definitely one of the few companies where you can purchase any of their optics at any price point and always feel like you got more quality than other brands for the price you paid ;)
I see what your doing here and understand the process, but can you better explain why the misalignment causes scope problems? As I understand it your scope will add another axis of constraint (linking the 2 rings with another member aka the scope body) If you tweet a scope body by 0.005” what does it matter? The point of impact will be repeatable when the rifle is shot no? How often will the pic rail even be straight when mounted to a rifle? It’s likely it’s not and even a single pc clamp will twist when tightened down no?
Well misalignments will cause you to use more adjustment corrections when zeroing which takes you farther from optical center. The rings will leave marks on your scope bodies if they are not corrected with lapping and/or bedding. And in extreme cases of misalignment, I have seen it bind up the adjustments of a scope
I actually purchased these alignment tools on Ebay from a guy who makes them in his machine shop. The full set has 1", 30mm, and 34mm ring alignment tools. Ebay member name is "mandingo1100" and the item is called "scope ring alignment tool kit". Cost was $110 back in 2016 when I purchased the kit so not sure what they cost now if still available.
Yep agreed. Because any alignment error is corrected on zeroing. As long as the scope doesn’t move from shot to shot is all that matters. And modern production means they’re accurate enough.
