BTW - I said on the video that the CrossWing has a 5-inch offset to the rear (allows for a better turning radius clearance) In fact - it's 8.5-inches which is much closer to what a traditional sliding hitch gives you.
@@2be2023 They published another video on this (Where they were on a Zoom call with people from Curt). It looked like he was at 90...or very close...with about 1-1/2" clearance remaining. Now, they were in a parking lot with his son coaching him on how much clearance he still had. But it's a perfect test of the capability. I'm ordering mine on Friday.
I saw video from big truck RV the crosswing on the standard bedrail is 5 inches and the rep from curt said the single point attachment aka goose ball is 8 inches offset.@@mikec8123
Thanks for the review. As of late January 2023 this was the only review of one in actual use I’ve been able to find. You sold me. I picked mine up today and can wait to hitch up.
By moving your pivot point behind the axle you do increase the chance of sway. It may not be significant but that's hard to know. I had a 12k 5th wheel on a ram 2500 and was a little over so I moved to to a 3500. If you ever get in an accident be sure to share your opinion with the lawyer. You can also contact the Ram engineers and let them know they were wrong when they set the weight capacity of the truck.
The only difference between the 2500 and th 3500 is the helper spring on the 3500. That's it. Everything else is the same. So, spend 1k and get the helper spring and your are golden.
@@mountainskyaerialphotograp3921 you're absolutely full of crap. The 2500 has rear coil springs, the 3500 has leafs. Not the same at all. The 2500 typically has the 11.5” axle while some 3500's have the 12" (not sure how many). The puck kits are different between the 2500 and 3500 telling me the frames aren't the same either. How much difference, I don't know but I bet they aren't the same in the rear.
@@caseypries7559 Nice that my opinion is "Crap" Thanks for that. But in your ignorence, my 2500 does not have springs, and based on dealer and other "Professional" spring works companies you are completely wrong. But hey, whatever you want to think. Have a nice "not crappy" day.
@@mountainskyaerialphotograp3921 Does not have springs? Does it float magically above the axle? I've owned both and yes, they both have springs. The 2500 is a coil, the 3500 is leaf and in the case of my 3500 it's leaf plus factory air bags. To my knowledge the only full air ride RAM offers is on 1500 and technically an air bag is an air spring. Seems like you need to better educate yourself.
I don't think moving the point of contact back about half a foot is going to affect sway very much unless you've misloaded the trailer to be overly heavy in the rear. The rep I spoke to at Curt said his Dad had the 2500 Ram and it pulled great without a slider in the short bed but " you do feel the trailer more' than you would in a very heavy and super heavy duty B &W type hitch. That's an advantage if you blow a tire and the trailer is ACTUALLY swaying down the highway while the rim builds up significant heat. I have pulled trailers behind military vehicles including in Iraq and I would rather be able to feel when a tire blows over the comfort that a huge, heavy, almost unmoveable hitch provides.
2000 mile review Curt Crosswing. Came in box and the packaging was perfect. Be aware it is five inch set back towards the tailgate. All material seems to be strong carbon steel and high grade bolts. After 2k miles I see no issue from stress or road conditions. My 5th wheel has disk brakes and between the crosswing and the trailer it is wonderful how they stop as one unit. The locking bar goes in and out effortlessly no matter what type of ground your on. Now...things I experienced... (1) need 300 ft pound torque wrench and proper socket for a 3/4 inch drive. (2) unhooking is not as straight forward as you might think. Truck and trailer at different angles from each other can cause some difficulty if the truck or trailer has some movement at any given time. Wedge and hitch will make contact even though you thought you lifted the trailer correctly from movement on irregular ground. (3) There is a metal cone in the hitch to help align the wedge which I feel will self destruct. They need to have replacements available now. The crown jewel here is the towing with the crosswing. Remember since the wedge has to be attached to tow if you break down or have service you will have to uninstall the wedge so the pin box remains traditional to move.
How did your truck handle on older roads? We crossed over a bridge and the expansion joints on the bridge caused a lot of bounce. Also, did you find any source for spare clevis pins that go into the gooseneck coupler?
Great video ! This is sold for only $810 -$850.00 on line. The blue Ox version is decent and simple too but only sits back about 3" I believe. The B and W slider version that installs over the gooseneck ball is heavier and is over $1,500.00. Curt males great hitches and awesome engineering. You can see why their technology is patented. This IMO is stronger and better-designed tush the Andersen that is pushed in the dealerships. And those don't sit back as far in your short bed
Where I live since the attachment point is a ball hitch you would legally need to use safety chains. I don’t know why people are trying to reinvent the fifth wheel hitch. Oh and I have never had a problem releasing my fifth wheel jaws.
I was waiting for this video. Cool! My fifth wheel is also 35ft we used it about 3 times and will use it again next month camping. So far, the RAM is doing a good job with the weight. I use an Anderson hitch and so far, its working good. Congratulations on your bigger size fifth wheel. And happy camping!
The next time you go camping, you should weigh your combination at a cat scale. That will give you 3 weights. The steer axle, drive axle and trailer axles and then the total GCVW. If the first two weights added together exceed 10,000 lbs you are over the GVWR for your truck or if either axle is over it’s rating. I suspect your rear axle is going to be way over its rating. Good luck if your insurance company finds out about it.
Okay, so I have a Reflection 337,--very similar--that I towed with 2500, 3500 SRW and DRW trucks, trying to find the best balance of daily driver and safe tow. 3500 is what's needed. You're overloaded--that's a given. Put some airbags on that Ram, and inflate your tires to the max specs--3500 SRW uses the same load range tires. If you stay under on the rear axle rating it'll probably be okay--just follow the trucker speed limits, and set your max at 65.
My rule is “if you like how it goes, don’t change anything.” The internet is all hung up on payload numbers and urban legends about being denied insurance in case of accident. Tow a properly matched fifth wheel like this and you won’t get into an accident in the first place! It has nothing to the with being “legal” of course, except in BC where exceeding GVWR is illegal.
I think that after loading up the truck and trailer with all your stuff (and passengers) it might be worth considering weighing it on a CAT scale. Nice trailer!
In US/ca you dont need a different category drivers licence? For something like this in europe you would need a different category (truck) license...and fines for overloading vehicle like you say are horrific...
Hey you guys might want to take a look at your pinbox a little closer. At 1:34 we can see the truck and trailer connected. The rota-flex is tilted way to far back and stands a chance of loosing the rubber piece inside. Anderson makes what they call a lock out kit to prevent this problem. Just so so you guys know.
Don't care how much my B&W hitch weighs, it's rock solid and has no sliding, banging, clanging, etc. So many hitches (especially sliders) make a racket while towing and they don't sound or feel as solid as my B&W.
You seem to miss the point of the video. Unless you're pulling a very heavy trailer you don't need a huge. Heavy hitch. And I doubt your ever take the monstrosity out. Most of us like to utilize the bed for other duties except carrying around a 120lb semi type jaw designed hitch.
You can decide all you want if your over your payload (9:50 mark), if something happens, insurance company's will make that decision. Looks way to overly complicated, Gen-Y or Reese goosebox is much easier & comes with some suspension for your trailer.
Not sure why you would have to 'forward and reverse, forward and reverse' to pull the fifth wheel pull, because all I ever have to do in my 18 wheeler is to set my trailer brakes, back 'into' the trailer, set my tractor brakes, then pull the fifth wheel handle. Unless these RV type fifth wheels are built differently, the same MO should work on them. All you need to do is get the kingpin off the Jaws.
Great hitch but with those numbers I would pay attention to the rear axle weight rating and the tires load rating... definitely don't want to go over those numbers.
Now that I have seen this version I am not convinced it's better than my Anderson Ultimate Aluminum hitch. If I was going to switch I would switch to the Reese Goosebox, which they just came out with version 3.
I'm convinced it's better because it's made from steel and believe it's better engineered and therefore stronger because of 2 reasons. I make my living making products from aluminum, but don't believe aluminum is a good choice for this kind of hitch.
I dont understand all these hitches that attach to the gooseball hitch, so you can hookup your trailer. Just use the Reese Goosebox, or GenY gooseneck hitch, and eliminae all the crap associated with a 5th wheel "style" hitch. I had an Anderson, towed the newly purchased 5th wheel home with it. I immediately removed the Anderson and sold it. Installed the Gen2 Reese goosebox, and would never go back to anything that has a large item in the bed, that needs dealt with, in some form or another, at some point in time or another. Goosebox tows like a dream, nice and smooth, and leaves a clean bed.
The Goosebox doesn't allow for any additional offset to allow for more clearance on short beds unless you have a B&W turnover ball hitch with an offset ball.
I like it. I think more options are a good thing... but I don't think its the solution for me. I tow several different types of goose neck trailers so the Reese goose box was still the right decision for me. I can't imagine life without an eight foot bed and I will not ever need a hitches that put the trailer further back. I suspect this is not yet approved by LCI for warranty claims like the Reese goosebox is...
I’m very interested in this hitch, thanks for the video. I also have a question for all the experts in here. What are your thoughts on two trailers, same length 32 ft, same GVWR 14000 lbs. only difference is one is bumper pull one is fifth wheel. The truck in this video would be “legal” with bumper pull but not “legal” with fifth wheel, given the difference between 10-12% of trailer weight as tongue weight on bp vs 20-25% of trailer weight as pin weight on fifth. Now which is a “safer” combination? Same length and weight so stopping is the same, bumper pull combination is longer overall and prone to sway and handling issues. Very curious to hear comments on this scenario comparison.
The fifth wheel would be safer, hands down. 😁 The internet would get all hung up in the numbers though and convince people they’d be safer with the bumper pull.
Thanks for the video, but I think you actually got about 8" (not 5") of clearance added, The ISR (puck rail) version of the Crosswing gives you 5". The Gooseneck version you have moves the center point back more because the goosemount is in front of the vertical rail that goes up to the hitch (see 10:45 in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0D_gOJI2Oc0.html)
You're right, I think it's more than 5" but when I called Curt directly the factory rep who was also involved in testing told me it was about 6" set back.
Cool design, but I'll stick with my B&W. There's no way I'd pull with an Anderson after what I've seen that aluminum hitch do. My local guy won't even sell them anymore.
Front-Rear GAWR ratings? Just curious trailer+dad+son is about 800-1k lbs over GVWR but if axles are not at limit, could work. Now there is the question of additional wear and tear on overloaded components or insurance limits for overweight vehicles. Can make for good long term content going forward :)
I felt a lot of bouncing when going over the expansion grooves on concrete roads. How did you feel? How well have they held up so far? I've been looking for spare clevis pins for the gooseneck coupler but unsure what to buy. Have you gotten any new ones?
Anderson. All aluminum and cheaper 😲 In a simple nutshell that is why they are unsafe and are Failing. They are Bending and Folding up and creating accidents all the time 😬
The Andersen hitch is marginal in my opinion, I would not use one if I was paid. Yeah, I know they are popular because of how light weight they are, but a lot of strength is sacrificed for that lighter weight.
I think the Anderson ultimate 5th wheel hitch is a better design. Pretty much the same idea of being a lighter weight hitch so you can easily remove it and being designed for normal length truck beds
It doesn't sit back as far. The dealers must get a kickback because that's what they push hard. I have seen the Anderson in person and the welds are decent but to me it doesn't look that heavy duty and it's weight of only 45lbs or so speaks for itself.
And it doesn't sit on the gooseneck ball. I think a lot of doubters on this thread just are justifying their (old) purchases because this innovative design just came out in the last month or so. Like it or not, you hand older technology and your heavy or lighter duty hitch doesn't attach to the gooseneck ball and doesn't sit back almost half a foot.
@@TruckKing You must be driving fast and running Over 2000 RPMS for that truck to drink fuel like that pulling that little trailer 😳 My 2021 Ram 3500 Duelly Longbox has the high compression Cummins not the HO Cummins and my trailer is 44.5 foot and is almost 20k. I average 13.5-14mpg when towing and 17-18mpg empty. You should keep these engines in the 2000RPM range for optimum power and fuel efficiency 👌👍
I have both the demco and Pullrite. Like the Pullrite over the Andersen as it steel. Currently have the Demco on the truck. Like that it breaks down easy to remove
Besides the obvious that you're behind your RAM's ratings with that 310 because your "wet" pin weight is no doubt several hundred pounds higher, that Curt is really a product that seems to be a "late to the party" offering. It's also not accepted by Lippert for use on their 5th wheel frames, which your Solitude has. Personally, I'll never tow again with a traditional, but the Reese Goosebox is excellent and leaves a totally empty bed and also approved by Lippert.
@@G53X0Y0Z0 Yep, since 2019 or 2020, mostly to get the automotive OEM supply. What's interesting is they have yet to give the nod to this hitch. I speculate that's because if they do, then they have no recourse against the other hitches in this class that they have been denying...
I don’t trust it with only a pin holding everything and only 2 bolts attaching it to the pin box. I’d like to see someone do a structural stress destructive test. Also how is it going to flex side to side as it only has a front to rear pivot point?
I got a 2022 Ram 3500 short bed I seen on your comments that the Curt Crosswing has a 5 inch offset (or 8.5 inch offset) which one is it. I put my 5th wheel king pin 5 inches back from center of gooseneck puck and it looks like my rear of pin box would be real close to hitting my truck tailgate. My question for you is you have almost same Truck and 5th wheel as me when you run this curt crosswing how far away is your rear of pin box from hitting your tailgate ?
My truck has the 6.5 bed, so longer than yours. For height the Crosswing is adjustable (5”). At its tallest it may lift the King Pin assembly clear of your tailgate. And yes, the set back is 8.5”.
Just purchased the Curt CrossWing for my 2023 GMC 3500HD Denali. I have called and emailed etrailer to see if the safety chains are needed or required. I am not able to get the information from etrailer. Can you possibly clear this up for me?
I've always enjoyed your channel. However, I'm a little taken back by the fact that you bought a fifth wheel that exceeds the payload of that RAM! I'm guessing you might have a max payload of around 2100lbs.
First, thank you for a real person's observations on this hitch from someone looking at it. But I do gotta say, Oh you Canadians... Running at payload on your pin weight... But then again, they will only let you drive about 62 mph US MPH in the great white north...so there's that... Montanan here...and 80 MPH and 70 MPH on the back roads... So, you Americans, be sure and set that nice screen on your Ram for kilometers before driving an distance up there or you will pay... My mileage still sucks for air even up there in my 2500 Hemi WITH a 3080 Payload...(just rubbing it in a little bit) but I'm not cussing DEF on a daily basis looking at about 1000 CDN for an oil change... Oh, I was following an Albertan heading home the other day who just couldn't go any faster than 65 mph apparently, They appeared to be frightened. I thought someone was going to hit them... Really, I love going up there to Kananaskis Country. People down here don't realize that Glacier National Park with the exception of the Going to the Sun (get your reservation) road is actually NOT as nice as north of that. Glacier is sort of the crowded south end of the best Rockies in North America...and not as beautiful. But I also gotta say, You all are actually really nicer than most Americans as a generalization... I won't tell anyone down here the secret of Kananaskis country... Shhhh. I think I'm getting one of those hitches...
Yes you might feel your truck is fine pulling that trailer and it will probably could do even bigger but your tongue wait is only a fraction of what you will truly have on that truck and your insurance co can deny any claim you have in anywrteck and the lawyers will eat you alive!!!!!! 3/4 ton pickuptrucks are not really safe for 15000 pound fifth wheels legally that is I have the same camper with a 350 1 ton ford 1 wheel and it barely is legal to tow my camper
Am all about safety and it may pull nice may be easier to remove out of truck but what happened if so one pulls out in front of you and you can to a hard stop the pull on that gooseneck is not going to hold that fifth wheel in your bed of your truck that fifth wheel going to come through cab that we're a fifth wheel should always be used on heavy loads over 10,000 pounds am my thoughts I been driving truck 20 years and I have seen so many goosenecks fail in a wreck I'll keep a fifth wheel safer for everyone
If you work out the math for this particular hitch with an 8" offset, with a 3000 pound pin weight, you are around 150 pounds lighter on the front wheels. Now, given that the Cummins is about 800 pounds heavier than the 6.4 Hemi and you can tow this with that same engine, the loss of weight on the front wheel is negligible.
Heavy diesel class 8 industry here, just wait until enough of these are out on the road and these fail and there are fifth wheel trailers in the ditches and guard rails everywhere. Just no! The slip,wear and shear force on this design is not going to hold up long term. The bigger the unit, the more it'll fail. But don't be fooled, this setup is an accident waiting to happen.
It is very gratifying to see someone use good common sense and know that this truck can absolutely pull a trailer of this size. You may be slightly over the payload number of your truck, but you are well with the 2500's towing and GCWR limits, and those are the legal numbers looked at when going thru a weigh station or in accident investigation. The payload rating of 10k is just a government mandated number to stay within a specific class of truck. I like the hitch, but it is entering a crowded space with Andersen and the Reece Goosebox.
There are two numbers to stay below to remain legal. GVWR and GCWR. For clarity: GVWR is the total weight of the truck with the rig attached. GCWR is the combined truck and trailer weights. Exceed either or both of these and you are taking risks. Legal and personal, regardless how the truck “feels” when towing.
If you have coil springs you could be in trouble with a dip and a "do da", meaning a pot hole. With leaf springs you can stabilize the twist. Curt did a bad job on this one but no worries, its something else you can complain about with a elevated fulcrum on the ball(danger). Your pump has a nomenclature plate...probably a cp3 which is a more reliable pump. Oh yea, your in Canada, how's the libby mechanics doing for ya, they can never make mistakes...huh?
Your Ram 2500 is licensed for 10000 # gvwr and you are exceeding that number. If you were ever in an accident and lawyers got involved you would have no defence
While there would be scrutiny and a potential ticket for being overweight, there would still have to be information that the weight contributed to the accident if you are implying that there is no defense for a potential lawsuit.
Your over on GVWR. Your over on Payload. And now you've openly stated your aware and going against the manufacturer rating. Get in an accident and any 1st year law student is going to own you after your insurance company drops you like a hot potato!
Driveby know it alls have always said this. It’s never happened except in extreme cases of tractors. Nobody can ever post anything now days without some beancounter sheep telling someone how they’re breaking rules.
@@JohnDoe-gm5ux wrong! I used to drive tow trucks, I've seen insurance adjusters over and over drop clients and refuse claims because of being out of the manufacturer specs. Maybe you Dodge fans should get together and get Dodge to properly rate their trucks! I've been saying for years they under-rate them. But sadly, that rating is what DOT and Insurance companies go off of in any claim.
I had an Andersen and it worked well. However, this hitch moves the pivot point rearward by 5 more inches without moving the weight back. The Andersen pivots around the ball, while this one pivots around the pin itself. This pivot point is better for short bed trucks and wide body trailers like this 310GK