Long time listener. First time caller… If I could go back and do it all over again. I would have hurricane clipped the interior walls. You have literally done everything right thus far… Please do it
Are you talking the non load bearing interior walls? I've never seen them hurricane clipped, plus that's for uplift. Those walls are only attached to the attic floor joists in a couple of spots by the blocking I installed. The attic floor isn't tied to the roof, so no real uplift exists. The center load bearing wall is clipped as well as the exterior walls.
Also don't forget to add in a whole house search protector in your breaker panel. This would be a good place to put an outside panel that way the inside panel would be protected along with the outside. On average a whole house search protector is about $200 give or take. But this is also becoming part of code to have a whole house search protector in the breaker panel.
Ryan homes actually have details showcasing the electrical panel in a double wall as we call it just like how you built it here. The only thing that is required for air sealing is an air barrier between the the double wall, but since your foaming it all that it moot. The air barrier is placed where the drywall would normal go, if using batt insulation. Also, don't forget to foam seal the top plate penetration once all the wires are run.
Awesome idea with the breaker panel the advantages of building the house yourself. I would highly suggest using a contractor for the hvac. If something fails like a compressor or you get a gas or water leak its covered under warranty.
Here's a idea, have your indoor breaker panel as a sub from a outside breaker panel. You going to spend as much as just a meaner socket and disconnect as you would having an outside breaker panel along with the inside being a sub panel less penetrations to the wall, which equals less air loss another possible issues. So you have a 200 amp outside breaker panel with the 125 amp inside sub panel. Any external things that you want to run you can use the outside breaker panel for that. And you don't have to worry about putting penetrations through the house. Just an idea from a former electrician
I was curious about doing that, but I've already bought a 200 amp inside and it's out of the return window. Can a 200 amp panel be a sub panel? I need to research how I would get big enough wire from the other panel to feed it.
200 amp panel wire is 1 Ott awg THHN wire. I know in some areas if you go higher in amperage like to a 400 amp service your power provider may charge you a commercial rate. Again taking the time to go down to talk with your inspector about your plans or ideas for electrical will serve you best. Before you make your final decision. You can take the information that you've got from everybody else about this and discuss it with him or her. You have my ideas and thoughts about this. But this is still for you to decide. You might be able to exchange that panel out. A good place to get electrical items is at this link. www.cityelectricsupply.com/ It seems to be local to your area. And they may have more in the way of the item you are needing aside from the big box store.
Also the people that work at the electrical warehouses are a full wealth of knowledge. And can guide you very well if they are willing to give you the information needed. Most of the time in my history of doing electrical most have been very beneficial and information and knowledge in the proper path to go. Again it all comes down to your local inspector and what he wants and what meets local along with federal NEC code lines.
BRILLIANT!!! If meets code great idea!!! My breaker box was installed years ago on an exterior wall…terrible energy loss…feel hot in summer and cold in winter…don’t forget generator cut off wiring etc…you are in a hurricane zone as I.
We have four wifi access points in our home / small business. We have a lot of tin in the walls that kills radio signals. I would definitely have one access point in your shed, one in the house and one or more for your yard.
Not sure if its been mentioned here but add blocking above and below your breaker panel so that the romex can be secured just as it enters/exits the breaker panel.
Watching Hurricane Ida now and thinking about your Windows and door openings. Africa has another system rolling off this week. Your in a very vulnerable location. Good luck, as always great video.
Shouldn't be a problem because I'm way undercurrent on all circuits and if I remember correctly that rule only applies if bundled together for more than 24 inches.
by no means am an electrician, looking good! I really like that elect panel popout! certainly up to you--we always put our low-e panels in a main or bedroom closet; in one home, the crew installed three '52inch' panels in a purpose built room...they were running a Crestron system with all in one cabling (not security though lol)--we used a 52 inch panel for symmetry; guarantee I may not use the Crestron components but that cabling is heavy duty and all you can need in one pull per room!! as always great stuff !! oh and I am anxious to see the HVAC crew get at it...whew!!
I know you read the NEC but I'll tell you anyway. The kitchen circuitry requires a minimum of two 20 amp circuits above the counter tops. Also have to install an outlet above any counter space 24 inches or larger. Wire pulls look good.
Not sure about residential but every place I've ever worked has had surface-mount breaker panels. Sometimes massive walls covered in all kinds of boxes. The conduit lines going into those boxes are also surface-mounted and run from the box up to a rough hole cut in drop ceilings etc. It's ugly but apparently code.
Not sure if this vid was shot before my comment on your last video, but instead of that side box for networking, I highly suggest doing a tech cabinet in your attic and a (power over ethernet) capable switch for your WiFi access points and security cameras if you plan on doing those as well.
@@TKCL ah gotcha. I know yall said in a live stream a bit back that yall just had the wiboost for now. Just figured I'd mention it now incase you wanted to put the ethernet boxes where the access points would go before finishing ceilings and such.
Since your in a highly electrical storm prone area, you might want to consider a whole home surge protector to place in your electrical 'closet'. I recommend Siemens fs140.
@@TKCL Im not an electrican btw: They are also used to protect surges from other homes that are nearby that have a generator from backfeeding into your home during an outage. It may not survive a direct strike, thats what the grounding rods job is, but a strike at a long distance away can backfeed causing a surge, or anytime a transformer blows and activates a switch etc. Our electric grid although not the most up to date, is getting better with autoswitching. If if a problem is detected and causes a slight surge as the switch activates. So basically the more modernized system has more surges due to the higher frequency of the stations autoswitching, but is better in the long term as leas area is affected by an outage. Literally the best thing to do is always at any time is to turn off as much as possible like lights, appliances...etc at all times reducing your electric bill but chances of a surge damage. A lot of appliances have their own surgeprotector and those plug in surge protectors are only good up to a point if I recall. Ive lived my whole life without a whole house surge and nothing happened yet.
It may seem overwhelming, but look back at when you started to clear the land to lay the cement pad. Then you well see how far you came along. But you get there,
I would def. Put a loop in the wire before you put it in to the outlet boxes in case sheetrockers hit the wires with there routers and saws. Otherwise u have to run a whole new wire or add a junction box.
For the network setup the easy way to do the endings are called a Keystone jack (The female ethernet port) as you can get wall plates for them for the rooms and you can get a patch panel for in the network/electrical closet. The patch panels are made to screw into a standard sized server rack but can be mounted to anything with the right size opening and normally come in a 24 1u setup or a 48 2u setup with the u being the number of bays in the server it takes. With the size of the walls it would be easiest to mount it vertically rather then the normal horizontal as they are 19 inches or so long so not going to fit between 12 or 16 inch studs easily. The normal setup is to not label them as a network tool exists to test if the connections are working so normally plug in one end into the rooms port and then find the right one in the patch panel and ether move it so it is in the order you want or just label and move on as the keystones are easy to move. This also means cables you put in for later expansion will want to be terminated with a keystone for testing unless you label those when you run them. Amazon is a good place to look to get an idea but check with someone in the area that knows building networking (Not a self taught computer geek) on the process as they can put a jack on the end of a wire without thinking about it. Keystone Patch panels as one term to search and keystone jack as another as you will want to get a bulk order of the right jacks for the network as cat5 will get you a working network but it will not get the speed of cat6 jacks on cat6 wires so the reason to talk to a networking person as they can cover the wire, jacks, plates and what POE is and why it is important if you want networked security cameras. You may also want a notebook as some of the terms used will be confusing with SOL as a perfect example as it is the name of our star or it is spit out of luck depending on who you talk to or a POS is a point of sale to anyone in retail and not that to anyone sane.
Sadly no internet now, so I'm running the cat6 in hopes that one day it becomes available. I already ordered a panel to leave the wires in and for future upgrades. I'll definitely label all wires as I pull them.
@@TKCL Internet is not the only reason to have a home network and as a RU-vidr one of the bigger reasons to have one is video file storage on the network to keep the raw files off the computer when not actively working on them. We had our first home network back in the days of dial up so long before it was in place to share the internet.
On the wall where you’re putting the breaker panel, you could just extend that wall that extra 4 feet and make it like a little secret hiding place well you can keep all your favorite Pokémon cards or whatever people might want to hide in the wall. 😉😉 Lol As far as up and downstairs, I’ve done a lot of networking and office buildings usually what they do is just run a thick piece of conduit from the top to the bottom so you can pull whatever you want through it. In a building I would put a closet on each floor with access and run the fiber trunks up and down and put hubs on each floor. You’re not gonna have that much but Just running a decent size piece of conduit through there makes it a whole lot easier to add and change and repair things later. I go back to the days before Wi-Fi so we would have tons of Cable. A nice big thick piece of conduit is also nice if do you ever end up with fiber optic. Fiber optic wires can’t be bent and moved around because it breaks the fibers inside so you have to carefully plan your angles and all of that and it’s a whole lot easier to get the curved piece of conduit from the top to bottom when your walls are open. In my head I’d like to say that’s a little silly to plan for fiber but they’re tearing up my road right now doing exactly that and I live in the middle of nowhere. I still don’t think it’ll end up in the houses on a regular basis but I would probably do it just because I’m a nerd and slightly obsessive. Where are you said you were using furring strips you may not need to drill through the floor Joyce to the second floor to get the wire there but I don’t know if there’s a code where it needs to actually go through a whole, I know they use staples for fire control. The floor joists aren’t really weaken that much by drilling a hole if you keep it away from the edges and you’re doing spray foam so you can bury it in there. Electricians drill towards the edge so you’re not having a problem putting insulation in there but when you’re spraying it doesn’t really matter unless you want your electric outside of the foam. I don’t know if you’re going to use spray inside the house between the two floors anyway. I will say this about insulation though, technically you don’t need it inside between the upper and lower floors but I can tell you from experience that heat rises and that insulation even if it’s just a thin layer will make a difference. I don’t think I would pay for spray foam on the interior but a thin layer of foam or some cheap thin are 13 couldn’t hurt. That foil bubble wrap stuff isn’t a lot I think it’s only oureight or 10 maybe but it works pretty well. I had that in my old garage in Illinois and it wasn’t a great insulator but I could turn the heater on there when it was 0° outside and still work in the shop fairly comfortably with a little space heater. That stuff is really easy to work with it’s lightweight thin and it comes in a roll and if you cut it short you just cut off another strip, And it cuts easy with scissors and you can tape it just like housewrap on the outside. It’s kind of like housewrap but with some bubble wrap on it and not foil on it is a radiant barrier and it really helps a lot and that would probably be the cheapest and easiest to do, And if you ever have to do a repair it’s not all messy like fiberglass or spray foam you just grab carpet knife or scissors rip a piece out tape some more in if you want to fix it, you can use a small stapler to secure it or even tape. A lot of houses just skip it but it’s pretty common to have your upstairs much hotter than your downstairs and every little bit helps, another school of thought is instead of putting your money there circulate your upstairs and downstairs air. You can do fan and duct that are just for circulation but I’m gonna hire end HVAC unit they will have circulation modes so even in those middle times where you’re not needing to add heat or cool it will still click on for designated time every so often and just circulate air for you through your existing HVAC system. There are some that actually have full time flow and never shut off and just add heat and cold when they need it and those are actually the most comfortable because the airflow is very low but constant so you neverReally noticed changes or your AC system cycling on and off, there’s justA very quiet constant low flowThroughout the whole house and it just adds heat and cool to the system when it needs it and it’s distributed evenly but it’s done very very slowly which is nice because it keeps your humidity and temperature levels pretty much within a degree the entire time and you never have stale spots. In my house that would be critical. I have a bedroom that I use is kind of a den with TV and I have two fish tanks in there when I’m in there at night with the TV going and it’s hot, that room gets much hotter than the rest of the house especially after the sun goes down so the AC never cycles on in this room can be a good 10 or 15° warmer. If there was just a little bit of constant airflow you don’t get those rooms with huge temperature swings because you’re constantly getting that excess heat or cold out of there. They’re probably very expensive but circulating air from upstairs to downstairs can also be done separately there are systems that look like a bathroom fan just move air from upstairs down and there are some that use what looks like a PVC tube and it’s just a very quiet small fan like you have in your refrigerators and it’s just constantly pumping air from the ceiling of upstairs to the downstairs which is separate from your HVAC system but it does move air, So you don’t have a big swing between upstairs and downstairs. In one of the houses I grew up and it was ridiculous it was 20 or 30° difference between upstairs and downstairs and in the winter it would get even worse because we’re heating that house with the woodstove most of the time. Lol if you’re doing that insulation really wouldn’t matter as much on the interior walls. You guys probably don’t care about noise as much but in multi family homes are with kids putting some of that rockwool insulation in a wall cavity makes a huge difference. Noise has always been an issue for me because I’ve worked nights a lot of times and my natural sleep rhythm has me staying up really late are usually go to sleep at four orfive in the morning and most people go to bed way earlier than that so TV running and all that can be an issue if you don’t have some kind of insulation to buffer the sound. I don’t think you guys will care that much about it but it’s something to think about. A lot of people also insulate their bedroom more because they like to sleep at a cooler temperature then the rest of the house and they have AC systems with zoning on them which is just a couple of vowels that will let the AC work in different sections of the house with different thermostats which is also nice. Before my grandmother died we had three zones in our house because she liked it at 85° all of the time, And I like it at about 68 when I’m sleeping and about 72-73 at the most during the day, 85 was ridiculous but that’s what she wanted and that was nice because we could have one big system that would just have control valves so if it pump the heater on for her close the rest of the vents off to the other parts of the house. Surprisingly it wasn’t that much I think it was $900 for a two zone system and the extra thermostat was about another hundred dollars to install, you just want to do it in the beginning because the main controller box for the furnace and condenser and all that needs to be compatible with zoning and if you change it later you have to upgrade that again which is a pretty big chunk of money but when you’re buying it in the first place it’s not that much more to upgrade the one that does zoning. Either way it’ll be really nice when you get the HVAC running in there to finish all that work. Trying to drywall without a heater or AC is a nightmare. If it’s cold it never dries if it’s hot it dries really fast it dries and cracks on top where it’s hotter, it can be a huge pain but with some airflow and a reasonable temperature it’s a lot easier, plus you won’t be working when it’s 99° all the time.
Pokémon cards lol 🤣🤣🤣. You hit some solid points and we are thinking on the same page. You'll enjoy my hvac system update. It was expensive, but I think we did the best we could with our money.
Like your show. I might have missed it but I did not see anything in regards to a vent over your stove. You will need a circuit for the light and fan. But my concern is the vent routing . We installed a large kitchen-aid vent, the fan was exterior and mounted on the roof, duct work was 10” dia. . Just wanted you to know what you were doing in regards to the hood and vent duct , in my opinion a ductless vent is useless. This is my husband commenting, he loves your show. .He used too make fishing trips to Quincy FL and fish lake Talquin he loved it. Sounds like it is close to your area.
When you pulled your wiring have you marked on the wire at the breaker box end as to what it is for? Can write directly on the wiring are use a loop of tape. Makes for easy hookup later.
@@TKCL great. You’re on it. I also remember years ago when I had an addition built on, another thing the builder questioned why I was doing it, was marking the wall studs on the floor. I wanted to easily know where they were after drywall was up. They soon learned the benefits when installing trim.
@@TKCL I typed a list of each breaker connections and taped inside box. I could also go to file, update if required and print. Also labeled the breaker. Great video.
Dont forget to seal any and all top plates even within the interior walls which is required. It doesnt hurt to seal all stud penetrations within interior walls while your at it too, which is not required but once again it increases air sealing.
Excellent idea for the breaker box and wiring (plus future wires)!!! You are awesome. The ideas you come up with (plus the research done) is so admirable. My family are innovative thinkers but you are way above us. You have my utmost respect and admiration. God bless.
I believe those rolls of wire are meant to pull out of the center. It will not hurt the floor joist at all. Pulling more than 1 circuit, pull from 2 rolls of wire at the same time.
Actually I explained and forgot to include it. Those rolls of wire must be pulled from the outside and over the top. I've tried pulling from the center and it makes a twisted mess.
You may want to move your dishwasher outlet over under your sink. This way you can put a receptacle in the box and a appliance cord on the dishwasher so if you have to service it you can just unplug it and pull the dishwasher out.
I believe this is now actually "code" in most areas... If the dishwasher is not hardwired (aka has a plug) it needs a receptacle (obviously) That receptacle (and most others) needs to be "readily accessible" which arguable it is not when behind a screwed in dishwasher... It a bit of a gray area depending on local interpretation of code, but many (most?) jurisdictions interpret "readily accessible" as NOT needing to unscrew the tabs on the dishwasher, moving the dishwasher and unplugging it. To quote the code (2017 NEC): "Accessible, Readily (Readily Accessible): Capable of being reached quickly for operation, renewal, or inspections without requiring those to whom ready access is requisite to take actions such as to use tools (other than keys), to climb over or under, to remove obstacles, or to resort to portable ladders, and so forth. (CMP-1) Informational Note: Use of keys is a common practice under controlled or supervised conditions and a common alternative to the ready access requirements under such supervised conditions as provided elsewhere in the NEC." In practical terms under the sink is a lot easier to plug in and you dont have to worry about running over the cord or managing the slack when you roll the dishwasher into place.
I'm no expert but the notch in your top 2x4 might be an issue with fire blocking. In case of a fire, it would chimney up that notch and right to the roof framing
It’s always difficult to find the prefect spot for the interior panel because there’s just not one. On new builds, I’ve started requesting homeowners let me place all breakers in the meter can. There are cases where this is more expensive, but with a little planning, it makes for a clean install. I can’t post a link, but the panel should come up by searching: Square D Homeline 200 Amp 42-Space 42-Circuit Outdoor Ring-Type Surface Mount Solar-Ready Main Breaker Plug-On Neutral CSED It might not work for this build, but it could be an option on 2.0. :)
I prefer my breakers inside for ease of access, but I can see where an outside panel will be nice for certain situations. I'd really like a outside sub panel to free up some space inside and make less penetrations in the house.
Hi Andrew you never stop to amaze me your always two steps ahead of every thing. You and Tiffany are going to have one beautiful home. If I were fifteen years younger I would build exactly the same thing. You are going above and beyond with this build good for you.
Wiring is looking good and clean. Nice job. If it helps, a big whiteboard in the shed with different colored markers might help in keeping tasks in line so you can stay ahead of contractors coming in. Sometimes it's easier to see at a glance on a big board instead of looking at the laptop or phone. I'm sure you've got it figured out the way it works for you.
I actually won't be installing anything because we don't have internet available. I just wanted to run the wires in advance just in case we get it one day.
When pulling a circuit for the dishwasher also pull the circuit for the garbage disposal. This is future prepping or somebody doesn't have to try to do this if you ever sell the place or whatever has you or if you decide to eventually put a garbage disposal in " this is common practice also ". But also remember those circuits have to be GFI protected and possibly arc fault protected.
Bed rooms put in fan boxes and use 12/3. 14 awg is easier to use in lighting boxes do the fact it's a little more flexible you still be doing good if you made sure your lighting circuits were 14 gauge wire yes it's a little bit more of a pain but it'll be a lot easier to with putting in switches and hooking up lights and whatever else on a lighting circuit. Granted 14 gauge wire is a little cheaper than 12 gauge so It still may be beneficial to also use 14 gauge. Whether be 14/2 and 14/3 for your lighting circuits and your fans. And use 12/2 or 12/3 for electrical. Though you're probably better off staying with 12/2 majority of everything electrical in the way of plugs. Like I said this is coming from a former electrician. It's late at night or I'd pull the code book out for 2020. But again on the breaker panel I know myself I'm going to have to change out my old grandmas electrical system because it's 60 plus years old with old bulldog breakers. And try to update some things. I'm looking at putting a 200 amp panel on the outside and 125 amp sub panel on the inside of the garage. Been enjoying your show and the work you're doing on this facility/house. You can run with these ideas when you get to read this in the morning have a safe night. And hopefully the Florida weather ain't driving you nuts too much.
Food for thought... Go ahead and pull a wire and plugs for a electric cook top and oven for possible future change up or for resale if the new buyers don't want gas. Mom use to do real estate and a lot of people did not want gas services.
In some areas here that's a law too. Luckily my municipality allows it. Heck in some areas of this country a permit is not even required to build the entire home.
If your going to have ANY equipment in your network box you will need ventilation. I worked in a clinic and their networking closet was a shelf inside a janitorial closet with no ventilation. It got so hot in there that the rubber feet on all the switches melted and glued them all together. Also look into your local fire code, many places require a firewall stop where wires ingress and egress. In many of the places I worked they had a putty that you stuffed into the opening to take up the open space.
Really the only thing that should be in the network box is a CAT6A patch panel. Another thing to consider is the number of CAT6 cables that can fit in a one inched diameter hole; you can fit about eight cables per one inch hole. You can fit more, but you run the risk of slicing a cable (or pinching) if you run more in the future. Pulling in CAT6 cable, it is absolutely vital that you do not kink the cable. Every kink causes loss in speed, as it disturbs the twist of the cable; this affects the attenuation and can result in crosstalk (induction of signal from one pair to another pair). These issues are not as critical when going 20 feet; however, when you start pushing 100 feet, cable integrity is vital.
Hi Andrew 🤩 You do an excellent job researching information and data on any job you do. My family enjoyed this video and impressed with your wiring. See you at the Live Stream ❤
Don’t forget to tag or write on the wires with a sharpie at your breaker box where those wires go, so they can easily be connected to your breakers by usage, lights, plugs and dedicated lines.
With the hardy board if I were you I would do the outside first and the entertainment areas under the deck do you have a lot more options you could just do wood or something a little more fancy where you’re really gonna be entertaining and doing things you could do sheet metal around the grilling area or whatever and change it up a little and under there you’re not quite as concerned about the weather and all that so you have a lot of options, you could even do some stone or something that would be more expensive but just do it in the areas where are you going to be hanging out instead of wasting all that money to put it all the way around the house around those two sides that really are part of where you’re hanging out. You might be able to come up with something pretty cool, specially if you’re going to do that bar area and around where the TVs are and around those big windows in the front you’ve got a lot of glass space there so if you were to do something that was different there you could go with the more expensive siding option because with all that glass you’re really not covering as much wall so a stone or something there might be kind of cool. Just a thought. 🤔
@@TKCL yup. It might be kind of a blessing that they didn’t have that much, now you can get some of the nicer finishes that are more expensive but just use them in the right areas and get the best bang for your buck. It’s really nice having the roof over there, you can go with words and stuff that takes more maintenance normally if you put it on the outside and you really don’t have as much direct sun and weather damage. I’m sure it’ll still get wet with a big wind storm or hurricane but it’s not like an outside wall where it might get hit several times a week and be baking in the sun all the time. A lot of manufacturers will do that they’ll put nice stone and stuff on the front and just use vinyl on the back to keep it cheap. But you’re kind of doing a bar area and all that so you have a lot of leeway because it won’t clash as much it’ll be kind of part of the bar so you don’t have to wrap stone all around the house or something expensive all the way around. I think you’ll come up with something cool
Should ditch the generator plug and just put a 200amp automatic transfer switch in and get a 20kw propane generator, gasoline generators are so inefficient. Transfer switch can go in now real easy. 12 for lighting circuits is way over kill, and any 3 ways or 4 ways are much easier. When you start trimming those plugs and lights with 12 your fingers are going to hate you. You can run 15 amp breakers on 12 just not 14 on 20 amp breakers. Finding 12/3 for 3 way circuits is more expensive., plus cramming 3 runs of 12 in a box is fun. Watch your cu in requirements for circuit runs per box too.
Be sure to take pictures of where all of the lines are and label them so you know where they are. You are going to put in spray insulation and you may not know where they are.
Put an outlet near your ethernet cupboard. At some time you may want an ethernet switch there as it looks like it's gonna be a hub area. Some internet services may need 110v for an ethernet power injector to power an antenna.
On the 20Amp to a bed room, its a good idea. I live in an apt with 15 amp to my bedroom, which seems like way more than enough...until I started suffering from carbon dioxide poisoning and had to start sleeping with a bipap machine that had an oxygen machine connected to it. That does not in and of itself use a high percentage of the 15A but when you add in my tv, roku and some other electronic devices, that 15A circuit starts to look crowded. A 20A circuit is good prep for if you ever need to add a piece of medical equipment or three either for temporary or permanent use or a powered assistance device (a friend of mine has something like that to help him get into his wheelchair in the mornings, he also has one in his special bathroom too).
Most likely you'll have kids one day if you don't already there going to have tvs, gaming consoles, sound systems strip lighting, heated blankets. Im talking from experience i have a 13 year old daughter haha best to allow for that extra power consumption haha.
your electrical needs to ran in side the wall not on the outside cause your dry way will be mountd to the studs which means when you screw the dryway you can screw through the wire
14:00 - 15:00 time frame... I've never seen Romex being run on the interior edge of wall studs/rafters. I hope you got (or soon get) the electrical inspector's approval before you cut/install hundreds of feet of your Romex.
It is "code" to run as many NM wires through a single hole as can be accommodated... with 1 caveat If the holes are to be fire stopped (or require fire stopping) than a max of TWO nm cables may be run through a single hole or you must (actually "should consider") de-rate them according to NEC 310.15. (B) (2) a. The hole's size is dictated by the max size/spacing and distance from edges (governed by IRC 502.8.1 UBC 2320.8.3) of the structural member as you mentioned so there is a theoretical limit. Jamming an infinite numbers of 12/3s through a single hole is obviously not possible and at a certain point a giant waste of time... I tend to only pull 2 cables through each 7/8" hole unless its necessary to pull more... otherwise its just a PITA and you can still foam the holes without worrying about de-rating. I have heard (though cant confirm) some jurisdictions (inspectors) may interpret this (more then 1 NM cable per hole) as "bundling" which of course it is not unless the hole is 24" deep (though a 24" wide beam)... But I would check with your inspector just in case.. Around here this is not "bundling" and the argument that it is is clearly nonsense that started in California and spread apparently.
If you can find one nearby, and finances allow, you might consider buying a used scissor lift. When you're done with it you can sell it for what you paid or not much difference. I've done that with a skid steer and a couple of other pieces of heavy equipment. Savings over a long term rental can be thousands.
There is no bending stress in the middle of the joist heightwise, however that is where the maximum sheer stress is, but the sheer load is greatest above the support points. Typically you are not allowed to have holes in the joists within a certain distance of the beam support points as well.
Did you have a permit to do your own wiring , in my state you need a permit and the book of codes is about four inches thick I did this once after a house fire what a chore still had to have a electrocution on call to the inspect the work or they would have shit us down
Most electricians, as well as I in the few new homes I have done, will run the "Home Runs" (the wire from the panel to power the circuit) first as you did. Andrew. Even focusing more on commercial and light industrial myself, I pull the home runs first. Like you, I have to mow the grass, at least in the back yard, but the simple push mower does a crappy job in the thick greenery when it is wet, and it has not had a chance to dry out.
How did you get a permit to install your own electrical wire and components?? Even though the first area you're installing wiring (time 14:42) might not be living area, I do not see stapling the wire to the face of the wall stud. Why not along side the stud, if in the future you want to wall up that area, you can't because of the positioning of the wire?? You do mean you're using 12-3 Romex right because it's yellow??
@@TKCL Well, I'm an old man who built houses back in the 1950's and 60's so it's been a while since I've looked at any building permit. I'll leave you to it and not bother ya'. All the best.
You give a lot of great information and detail. Thank you. Look forward to the response you get on this one. So you have a elevator for the house now. Lol
yes 12AWG is some overkill, but very consistent. Electrical entrance: think about an interlock for a backup generator / solar. It is a lot easier and cheaper now instead of afterthoughts.
OSB is down to a "reasonable" $17.50 a sheet now around here. Zip sheeting is $37.50 (down from 62$ a sheet) 2x4x8's are about $3.20ea. I bought 50 2x4s just to have material on hand in my yard
While it’s a nice thought to have all 20 amp, it really is overkill for these new led fixtures, you could save yourself some serious scratch with the cost of wire right now
What are you doing for a stove and oven? Electric/ gas? Even if your using gas/propane if you can afford it I would run my wiring for a stove incase at some later date she's decided she want or wishes you would have went electric.
@@TKCL Andrew please understand I'm not trying to get into your business or sound like the boss I'm just trying to be helpful and think outside the box Sir...
Also, go ahead and start a Instagram page, I'll help you get your following up pretty quick and there's another opportunity for more feedback and viewership!
Just as a point of technique, if your getting floppy ends after pulling a wire your pulling it with too much force. I don't think it matters much with the romex (but I'm sure there's a spec for that). It will matter with the cat-5,6,7 where maximum pull force is usually around 25 lbs which seems like a lot but it really isn't.
@@TKCL A hack of sorts if you have a long run through multiple holes and want to reduce some of the drag is use some cut up strips of milk jugs to line some of the rougher holes. Just remember to remove it before the inspector comes.
