Let us know how it goes and what the results are. I have my opinions on pushing it past 1 stop on Kentmere. Perhaps it’s probably the way I developed it idk. I’m positive yours should look good.
You haven't pushed anything yet. Pushing happens at the lab. Enhanced contrast happens by increasing the development time. That's pushing. It has nothing to do with exposure. What you've done is underexposing film, and that is unfortunate and should be avoided when possible.
@@evkontsevoy8605Not only are you nitpicking over semantics, you are giving your opinion as fact. Under exposing and overdeveloping has an established role in the photographic community. Just because you don't like it doesn't mean you have the right to tell someone that what they are doing is wrong.
@@ColHogan-zg2pcThey're right. Exposure and development are two separate steps and pushing happens during development. Any photography book will tell you this, it's not an "opinion". The word push comes from "pushing time". The contrast buildup is achieved by pushing alone, i.e. during development. Under-exposing is not required for this, but it seems like the influences don't bother with books and just popularize myths. The "established" role you're referring to is when news photographers were FORCED to under-expose due to lack of light, and used pushing to get a salvageable image to their editors.
I have a working theory that Jason and Caleb are secretly graffiti artists that just shoot photos as a cover after they paint the hell out of buildings.
To this day, I still cannot believe that I watched Jason's video for 4 years so far. Thanks mainly to Covid, I started shooting film ever since and it's the best decision that I have made. Thank you for making contents for me to see and escape.
Kentmere is excellent. I regularly push Kentmere 100 (35mm) to 1600 with very acceptable results. I have also pushed it 6 stops to 6400, and crazy enough get usable but dark photos. A 100 foot roll is like $75 and yields 18-20 rolls with 36 exposures each, so its very economical to experiment with (which is why I've pushed K100 to crazy ends). I recently have tried Kentmere in 120 and its great stuff. I just need to get a 100 foot roll of K400 now...
I have been pushing K400 to 3200 for quite a while and I love it. It is my goto setting for indoor shots - especially in winter times. Great video btw.
Personally I think Kentmere is natively an 800 ISO film mis-labeled. When you develop it at box speed it looks super dense, and when I stand develop it (which should do best at the native ISO of the film since it has no compensation methods built in, other than just reducing the difference between all stops) 800 looks the best.
@@snappy8k I pretty much just settled awhile back on kentmere as the best. Most films are honestly pretty similar, but kentmere is a bit better than anything else I've tried in this application for under control grain (as you see in the video), and since it's cheapest as well, there's not much reason to look further. I use Delta 3200 when I WANT a bunch of grain on purpose.
Absolutely slept on film stock and I'm happy to say it as I luckily happened to stock up just before you dropped this video and probably skyrocket the price! I feel like we're on synchronous journeys, I discovered my love for Delta about a week before you posted your video about it. Love what you put out as always Jason, beautiful photographs :)
Stoked for someone of your viewership to spread the word on this incredible film. I really think it truly shines when pushed 800-3200. I've gotten halfway decent stuff at 6400 ISO but it's garbage at 12,500.
They look great at a three stop push. I have some in the fridge I was gonna shoot at 200 ISO with a standard development to get the bright Texas sun effects and dense negs for digicam scanning. But I love seeing the push. I can foresee going this way if I know I can run out the roll on my 503CW in appropriate light. Thank you.
You can shoot it at 200iso, it's its true sensitivity, you meter in the shadows and underexpose them by 2 stops, so they will actually be shadows in your negative. Then you can increase the development time, so that the contrast will rise and you won't get a flat negative. Remember that what a scanner can see from your film is much more than what a chemical paper could. So the result that grainydays obtained would not be possible for an analog print (in an analog print you would have ALL the shadows COMPLETLY pure black)
Exposure controls how much information in the shadows is captured, the duration of the development controls how much contrast you will have, so you don't have to underexpose a film in order to increase the contrast, you just have to develop it for more time
I shot Kentmere 400 at 3200 ISO to photograph an indoor basketball game once. I developed it using HC-110, semi-stand at 1+64 for 45 minutes, with 2 inversions every 8 minutes, or so. They came out looking pretty decent, actually.
Grainy days buys a grainy film and then goes against the grain to push it to 3200. Surprisingly he finds there's not a grain of truth in the belief that it'll max out. Grainy days loses his faith and finds a new faith.
Any idea on the developer the labs might use? I think some people like me find it interesting. Also did you add clarity in post or is it the look of the film? Keep it up with the videos, always a pleasure to watch!
@@lostaaron8 I haven't tried that myself, so your best bet is to google "the massive dev chart" and look up that combination. It's like a wikipedia database of user submitted development times for chemicals and films and pushes.
I tried this a few years ago with the 35mm iteration. My photo mates thought it was ridiculous but after developing it in HC 110, the result was rather pleasing, even with the grain being somewhat too big in some cases.
I just ran two rolls through my Canon T90 - very rapidly as you might imagine. One roll at box and one at 1600. Haven't developed them yet, they are aging in the cellar like a fine wine for a week as that's as long as a case of wine lasts in our house. Great outfit BTW.
the only thing stopping me shooting k400 at 3200 is that i develop myself. That means shaking that Jobo tank like a cocktail for nearly half an hour. Brutal
Interesting about labs charging for pushing black and white. Our lab only charges for C41 to be pushed. Our thinking is that the b&w machine always needs the time programmed in and pushing C41 halts all other work going through until that film is out.
Damn I'm a fan of shooting K400 at 800 but I've never pushed it to infinity and beyond. You've inspired me and now I gotta get jiggy with it and push it to 256000!!!!!! 😂
It's crazy how many condescending film karens come out of the woodwork every time someone makes a video or forum post (god, photrio is the worst place ever) about doing something that isn't in line with whatever the status quo was 40 years ago. As if we don't all inherently demonstrate immense love and respect for this medium simply by creating with it and getting joy out of it. Like I'm sorry that your job as a photojournalist in the 80's was so hard and/or you never got your work exhibited the way you wanted despite going to art school and that it apparently makes you insecure to see younger people having fun and experimenting with film photography. the vibe is very "this rap music is garbage, you kids don't know what real music is like!"
Kentmere 400 still has an anti-halation layer, or at least I've had a bunch of purpleish dye on my hands after mishandling with sweaty hands during development...
I used to push it to 3200 and develop in Microphen and was always happy with the results, with the exception that it seemed to lack much detail on skin. But then, all my friends are very pale
Everything always looks better in black and white - accept it. Now of course I would love to know what developer provides such lush greyeries with that film ? Will we ever know ?
what developer was used? can you tell the dev times for 1600/3200? I tried Kent400 several times and there was always something i liked and something i absolutely disliked about the look, but i couldn´t put my finger on it. I once overdeveloped Kent100 badly and since then i never bought it again. The 3200 iso looks so good. I really adore the texture and mood.
Just bought 2 rolls last week! Last time I used any Kentmere product, it was fibre based photographic paper in 1999 and it was flatter than a Lamborghini. Maybe I should've stretched the development....
Fascinating. I've been pushing Delta 400 2 stops for awhile and recently some xp2 with good results. The xp2 tends to be very contrast though. I'll try with my fomapan 400 and let you know how it goes. Abiut time I took the mamaiya 7 for a walk
This is the film that my college course buys and I’ve always hated it because of how flat it is and have always brought my own film like ilford hp5 when doing lessons with film cameras but knowing how good it is when pushed I might start using it more often.
IMO your shots of Delta3200 have a pictorial effect with the grain structure. It works nice for those Spain landscape shots. Kentmere 400 pushed at 3200 looks way cleaner and I feel works better for more "reporter" photos.
I’m loving the shots you got and the high dynamic results that you’re getting by pushing it. I’m looking for something a bit more contrasty, would you have some tips? Thanks
Nice one,but you are using a larger format camera.I wonder how far you could push 35mm filmstock 'Cause I have some in my fridge and I really hate flat looking images....................
I could help you get into developing a bit. You don’t have to give up your lab, but sometimes your want to flip a roll 10m after you shoot it and b&w is very accessible. Also, a lot of the look of the film as well as its tonality and grain structure comes from chemicals and even the way you agitate. You can also change dilutions, temps, and times for various "flavors". Imagine taking the b&w film of your dreams and dialingnit it in even closer to what you imagine. Well, that’s possible, take your color to labby and rip&dip some noir in the kitchen.. feel free to holler
Is it just me or is Photographer Jason and RU-vidr Jason like two different people? Like they talk completely different and behave differently as well... Quite fascinating.
