Putting the 53 Chrysler Flathead Engine Back Together! 

Young man, you are doing some pretty good work. Just my opinion, I would keep the 12 volt system, and the electronic ignition system. It will save a lot of headaches later. That 6 volt starter will handle the 12 volts just fine. I'm impressed with your abilities, and willingness to keep the old car on the road. Good luck to you on however you decide to go. That piece on the intake/exhaust is a heat riser, it's to help the engine warm up faster. If the valve is open, it's OK to leave it open, if it's closed it can cause a lot of problems. Mainly burn exhaust valves, not to mention poor performance.

Howdy, I'm an old guy who would like to help you a bit. Don't take me wrong as I give you some advice. The first valve you were lapping in is an exhaust valve (smaller). The seat was not lapped enough to give you the correct surface. All pitting and marks must be gone. To get the suction cup to stick on the valve try some spit. I rebuilt my first engine (1931 Model A Ford) in 1963. I made lots of mistakes at first, but some very kind old timers helped me a bunch. Good that you are going to return it to 6 volts. Make sure to remove any paint or corrosion from the starter to bell housing mating surfaces. If possible attach battery ground cable to starter mounting bolt. Chrysler actually makes some heat riser un-stickum spray. I have a WW2 Hobart welder powered by one of those engines. It's a beast.

Two suggestions: CopperCoat for the head gasket and thread sealant for the cylinder head bolts. Most of them go into the water jacket, and this will prevent rusty threads.

Good job!!!!!!!!!!!! I wish I had someone like you around.

Hot glue works great to keep the tool in place. Credit for that goes to my wife!

These were originally positive ground if I remember correctly. If you go back to the OEM type generator you will also need a 6VDC voltage regulator. One way to have inexpensive new red and black battery/starter cables is to buy a set of Harbor Freight jumper cables and put new ends on pieces cut to length. Good job! Have fun!

Reminded me when I helped my dad rebuild his 52 dodge. He was an automotive engineer so his job was rebore blocks and grind cranks and cams. When he bought a car he would completely rebuild the engine to 1.5 thou clearance, so a tow start was the norm. Looking at your valve seats after lapping, I'm picking they wont last long before leaking again. They needed to be refaced then lapped in. Nice to see a young fella bringing an old engine back to life.

I used to lap valves on all the old cars I owned. Had a hand crank lapping tool that looked like an old egg beater. It would turn the valve clockwise about half a turn and then ccw about a quarter turn. I used to use contact cement to glue the suction cup on to the valve. Saw a used one on Ebay for 25 bucks.

I’ve had pretty good luck by drilling a small hole in the top of the tool used for spinning the valve when grinding a new seat and threading a bolt into the hole to use my 20 volt drill and spin it one way for a second or two then the other. Hopefully I don’t sound like a know it all just wanted to give you a little tip.

I like to see more Chrysler videos.

I really enjoyed your video, I have a 1948 Dodge 1 ton and I think it has a Chrysler flat head 6. It has a one stuck cylinder & I think I will rebuild the whole engine. You have an old head on your young shoulders.

im building a '53 Chrysler 265 spitfire right now for my '41 Dodge WC12. cant wait to get it back together and drive the truck

Ahh, an old '53 Chrysler. Dang I love all those old automobiles. Thanks for keeping them alive. Also, as an aside, I really liked the radio station that was playing those old tunes like "Young At Heart" and some of the others. I tend to get a little "wispy" when I see these fine old sedans being brought to life. Keep up the good work Son. And thanks again. God Bless you!

Excellent job! You explain each step very well and she is looking good under the hood. Now come on up here to Alaska and help an old man get more of my 50+ classic fleet done! Most of mine are 1930’s~1960’s

I found a set of 2x3 exhaust manifold from a 47 tanker truck and duel carbs,stock on big trucks . Looks good under the hood . They are still out there .

🔴🇺🇸🦅 Great memories, I owned a 53 Dodge Coronet, back in my high school days, with a flathead 6 , 3-speed fluid drive the two-speed PTO rear gear, my car was used in the 2 series quantum Leap, I ordered a performance kit from j.c.Wittney, catalog, It included two separate exhaust manifold for dual exhaust, a turbofan, that was connected to the intake of the carb, and a high-pressure accelerator pump, the only problem is I would blow head gaskets, because of overheating, I remedy that problem, with a larger radiator from a 63 Plymouth, Great footage 🎥🎬🎞️👍 v keep up the good work 👍‼️♦️♦️♦️

I would leave it as it is now, except I'd fit the power steering. No harm in driving an old car with a few modifications, especially the ignition, because points for those are most likely very hard to obtain now.

Try using a dewalt cordless drill to lap the valves. Makes it go quick. I have a 53 DeSoto. Very similar cars. 👍

Lapping should have gone out with the Model T. The nice frosty mark you get on the valve face does not make contact with the valve seat as soon as the engine warms up. The valves change in length. I did this my senior year in high school on one of these flatheads back in 1971. When I went to to Cal Poly a few years later and took Head Rebuidling class the text book and the professor explained the above. We learned to properly do a 3 angle valve job including valve guide repair which gives superior results especially in the long run.

Sounds good! That’s a tough old hunk of iron.

Nice job! I'm currently in process of a complete rebuild of my 230 Flathead for my 47' Dodge D-24.

Great job! Those flatheads have a great sound.

Nice video! I need to freshen my 230 for my '55 Savoy, so after watching you, I will be better for it now. Thanks for making this video

Actually, it's suggested to use the course lapping paste, lap the valve, then finish lapping using a fine paste. This polishes the seat a little better. You have to get all the pits out so the valves run cooler.

Nice job like the way you lay everything out and the music is great.

I drove a Newport 2 door the high school in 1967 and also did what you showed in your post

I appreciate your hard work and the direction you're heading. I have a 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook I'm taking in a little different direction. For my project I won't be using any of the 6v stuff though. Feel free to message if you need anything.

Those flathead six are complete die hard engines I had one in a 48 Dodge truck that sat for 40 years and I got it running and drove the heck out of that engine and it was still a runner when I pulled it out but it was burning some oil but still ran very strong. I still have the engine on my run stand and get out and fire it up once in a while.

SHOULD USE TWO SIDED TAPE

Nice video, just curious, how would you go about trying to turn the crank to check if it was frozen? That nut on the crank pulley is like 43mm....

Delete it or it will cause problems . We had a 48 Plymouth an a 56 Plymouth both flat heads an a 38 Dodge Flat head good old motors . I us to drive a old Dodge Van with a huge welder in the back also a Flat head went great . 👍🏻🇦🇺💯

Will say one thing from experience, those engines don't like cooler weather with a 6 volt setup.

I'm currently rebuilding a 230. Did you do any machine work or replace any crank or rod bearings?

The suction cup method is common for valve lapping. I think that a circular magnet would work much better than the suction cup arrangement. You might be able to make your own tool that would work better.

Can you show video on transmission function, my 1941 crysler transmission Celluloid keeps acting up

interesting job there are a lot of things that one could do at this point first thing that i can think of is that this is NOT a high speed motor i would not go back to 12 volt no matter what this is a good car for pissing around town GOOD URINAL car try to restore the thing to what you want and as time go s on find another motor and do a better rebuild they can do many miles but they are Small and only have a top high useful rev of about 2000 RPM good luck on your travels

49:40 trying to leran more about Old cars. Is that a transmission realy of sort?

This engine is the one that will survive the zombie apocalypse. Slowly. But it will outrun them.

Runs nice , I built a 52 two door same motor . I

Ooooh....a Fluid Torque Drive...11 quart oil change.

You said it had a V6 installed before, do you know what year and type? Thanks! Nice job!

Hmmmm what was that drip drip dripping under the engine?

I did the same thing to my 51 Cranbrook, I should have made a video but I cuss like a sailor 😅😅😅,

PS I just subscribed. Thank you

My backseat comment is that you should have done an actual valve grind. The lapping is to put a finer hone on the valve grind. was this era of automobile before the 2- or 3-angle grinds? Keep up the good work!

the smaller valve is the exhaust valve.

Big valve is intake

At the end it looks like it's leaking coolant.

Go back to the standard fuel pump ⛽️ when you can more reliable 👍🏻🇦🇺💯

29:23 .. Why no compression results ?? It must have been very low. These cars were so underpowered that they would be dangerous in today's traffic.

Young man you’ll have a slow starting car in the winter converted to 6 V plus hard to find parts that’s why people converted them 12 V because the coils and the starters and everything else is extremely expensive for the 6 V because they’re not coming if you plan on driving, I will leave at 12 V starter set up on it and the 12 coil and let you know stuff and I would I would leave that travel alone

they're not called "clips"..they're called keepers.