Some corrections/info I discovered after recording this video: - It is a 1964 MKD - It originally came with a fluid drive coupling, NOT a centrifugal clutch - You CAN shift-on-the-fly with the Albion Transmission. The newer plugger transmissions are NOT shift-on-the-fly
i have a 57 4 door 235 bel air in the same color. i eventually want to move my filter bowl away from the exhaust just to ease my mind. white teflon is okay, just dont want debris from teflon tape to gum up the needle and seat. good to make sure threads are cleaned and the tape is applied with none hanging over. yellow teflon is technically for gas. i use white teflon too because ive never had a problem as well. after i used the kind of flaring tool youve got, i retured it and bought a fancy flaring tool that fits in a vice and does a great job with little effort.
In the old days before detergent oil, people would add some diesel fuel to the oil. Run it only for a minute, than change the oil. Cleans out the gunk.
Had that engine in a 63 2-wheel drive pick-up with three on the column. Positrac rear end. Got about 21 mpg and ran forever. Eventually the frame rotted away. Great engine. The only thing I ever did on the engine was adjust the valves.
What is the car in the background??? I used to own a 1953 Chrysler Windsor 8 passenger that was modified when new to be a "sedambulance". Mine was even the same color.
Oil is not supposed to be coming out of the top of that tubing that way. Braze that up to stop the leak. Then crimp the end of the tube closed lide @fiddlerpin suggested to send the oil out the shafts and to the rocker arms.
You should drop the pan and clean it out. This engine is too dirty. You don't want to plug the oil pump screen. That would cause sudden death to your engine.
When removing the rocker shaft, you should start at the ends and work toward the center. To install it, you start at the center and work toward the ends. Going from end to end can warp the shaft.
Good that you pinched that discharge tube shut. Ford Y blocks had that type of setup as well, and, you guessed it, lack of oil to the rockers was a problem. Detergent oil was around, but many folks, myself included, wouldn't use it, as it wasn't all that great until the 70s. It sometimes would separate. By the 80s, was satisfied that it was good.
That oil tube has a hole in it replace or braze up that hole and pinch the line off at the end. What this does is to force oil pressure down that rocker arm shaft and force oil out the rocker arm holes ensuring proper lubrication of the rocker arms. I can see by the grooves in the rocker arms that they are worn some. Also, that engine most likely has hydraulic lifters, and they are not adjusted properly (zero lash and one turn should do it) You could have verified that when you had the side cover off of the engine. I had a 56 Chevrolet with the 235 and of course it was worn out and crudded up. After we fixed the engine and got everything cleaned up it ran well but going down the road one lifter would lose its prime and go to clacking (also makes the engine idle rough due to loose valve timing). After a time we found out two things, one was to pinch off that oil return tube and that helped the rocker arm lubrication immensely, and two was to drill a .060 hole in the oil galley plug behind the camshaft gear (of course this required to remove the camshaft which can be done in the car) this is of course a major job as it requires the removal of the valve train and lifters(do not mix them up). What this does is to bleed out any air that gets in the hydraulic lifters causing them to lose prime and clatter. I would hold off that procedure until the upper lubrication issue is fixed as it may also help the lifter problem. One thing about those older vehicles is they are user friendly for doing in frame engine service to include bearing replacement and ring replacement as well as easy removal of the head for valve servicing. Back in the day automobiles were routinely in framed with what was called an overhaul which included valve service, rings, and bearings at around 30,000 mile for a valve job and around 60,00 miles for an overhaul. Back then attaining 100,000 miles on an engine was quite an accomplishment. Nowadays one can get upwards to 300,00 miles on an engine or more.
Two suggestions: CopperCoat for the head gasket and thread sealant for the cylinder head bolts. Most of them go into the water jacket, and this will prevent rusty threads.
This car looks exactly like my first car as a boy of 16 in 1971. Yep, 235 with 3 on a tree. NOTE: That black box on the fenderwell glows red if you hotwire the car.
Those shafts has a flat machined along the bottom to spread the oil across the bearing. Once they wore the flat is gone. I found this on my car with only 80 thousand miles on it. I took a grinder and just cut a small groove most of the way across the bottom of the bearing area of each lifter to restore the oul spread.
I really enjoyed your video, I have a 1948 Dodge 1 ton and I think it has a Chrysler flat head 6. It has a one stuck cylinder & I think I will rebuild the whole engine. You have an old head on your young shoulders.
🔴🇺🇸🦅 Great memories, I owned a 53 Dodge Coronet, back in my high school days, with a flathead 6 , 3-speed fluid drive the two-speed PTO rear gear, my car was used in the 2 series quantum Leap, I ordered a performance kit from j.c.Wittney, catalog, It included two separate exhaust manifold for dual exhaust, a turbofan, that was connected to the intake of the carb, and a high-pressure accelerator pump, the only problem is I would blow head gaskets, because of overheating, I remedy that problem, with a larger radiator from a 63 Plymouth, Great footage 🎥🎬🎞️👍 v keep up the good work 👍‼️♦️♦️♦️
Why do people insist on calling a 50's 235 engine a STRAIGHT 6 ? There were no V-6 235's then so what else could it be but straight. Sounds pretty dopey to me when people ask me if it's a "straight 6" in my 1951 van. I tell them that there were overhead valves and flatheads but the only thing called "straight" back then was an eight cyl, with cars like the Buick "Straight 8". Never heard a 6 called straight until way later when V-6 engines came along. Your 235 is an OHV 6 cyl! Nothing else. :-)
Do the job once and do it right. Buy yourself a Motor manual. You should remove the coil and the plugs so when you put it back on with a new gasket it just fits and seats. Any other way and the gasket will be destroyed. Anything that is missing (Springs) need to be replaced.
I had a 78 ford Granada with a straight 6 that wasn’t getting oil, I added a little kerosine and ran it for a few minutes, it cleaned it out, I got another rocker assy. At the salvage yard & changed the oil & filter.
what your doing will work ! but ! the way its done in the shop as far as cleaning the in side of the shaft is to put a rod down the inside of the shaft and knock the oil plug out the end and take a bore brush and clean the inside of the shaft 38 cal pistol bore brush is just about right but in the shop we have the oil galley burnishes that we use the sad thing is by the time you get every thing all cleaned up with all the clearance your going to have how much oil is going to make it to the ends but any way you look at it it will be better then it was before as you had no oil good luck with your projects ps 1-1/5 turns on your valve adjustments you have hyd. lifters that must have a automatic trans cast iron power glided
When I worked on Detroit Diesels, the Series 92 had wet liners. The o ring seals had to be above the intake ports and had the tail end of combustion hot gases heating the cylinder walls. This cooked the seals which let coolant get into the oil. Coolant is real bad news for engine bearings and the oil system had to be cleaned out. Detroit recommended adding a cup of butyl cellosolve to the 30 oil after the overhaul. Run for about 15 to 30 minutes and change the oil and filter. Run that for 15 to 30 minutes and change the oil and filter again. This was to flush the coolant out. My ex had a Chev with a neglected 350 in it. Change oil and in two days it looked like it had not been changed for a year. After about 8 oil changes and a couple with a quart of ATF and still filthy, I brought about a 1/4cup of butyl cellosolve home, put it in the car and went for a short drive. You do not want to put high load on the engine while doing this, but you want the oil warmed up good. Changed the oil and filter and went for a half hour drive and changed the oil and filter again. After this the oil did its job cleaning the engine but was not black as coal.in two days. Butyl cellosolve is a component in some industrial cleaners. It has a rather distinctive odour. It will clean the sludge out of your engine, but use caution on how much and do not load the engine heavy. A bit of a drive around the neighborhood at 30 MPH is good with the butyl in the oil. After that is drained and refilled some higher speeds to say 50 MPH for 5 to 10 minutes will get that oil warmed. After the last oil and filter change it should be almost like a new engine.
