Quadzilla Banshee Quad Blows Up In One Minute (First Start Gone Wrong) 

was that 2 stroke oil? didnt look like it to me.

Keep up the good work 🔥 you deserve a lot more recognition then you get 💯

Grab some 927 when ur working on older bikes like this best 2 stroke to run ❕🤫

Failure to measure clearances and tolerances

LT250r-500r motors are supposed to have thrust washers one each side between the piston and needle bearing, I would get billet made ones as the factory steel would cause tremendous damage when they came part. Also check the main crank bearings for play, as I have seen that cause the same issue your having.

Yeah I was wondering that myself about the smoke

@@Chris-ru5eq I've told him over and over and over again about doing leak down tests using proper tools he takes all his bolts out and put some in with an impact driver he takes stuff doesn't drain the gas doesn't drain the oil just trust what someone else has done or trust what someone else has told them if he had took this cylinder and had to measure the clearances for himself before he ever installed it he would not have had this problem not only that but the shop that did the job didn't use torque plates that's why it has scuff marks in the four corners of the piston that's a very common thing when the boar isn't perfectly round if the bike had a ran any longer it would have had a cold seizure he was running factory Jets meanwhile it's bored out it's not big enough where you would consider it a big bore but I have a 421 Cub Banshee and I know all about leak down tests and what can happen if you don't do a leak down test

As soon as it fired i said air leak. Running 28:1 and no smoke out of the exhaust on a 1st start? Shut her down!

Yeah it didn’t even sound right.. could just be the camera and shit but I have built a few zillas in my day and ridden plenty of 500s it did not sound like any zilla I ever heard

@@Chris-ru5eq I know how you feel, I too have commented on his lack of cleanliness (works on filthy engines and carbs) and his "RU-vid knowledge" I watch for the laughs and to see how long it takes to blow 'em up. !!

Now that's thinking makes sense to me.👍 I'd guess it's probably the case tho same ideeerr

Came here to say something similar but you explained it in a much smarter way😂 but yeah and the fact it happened twice in what looks to be pretty much the same spot.

I think he has damaged the rings letting the piston catch the gasket on the wrong way around then it has blown just a guess 🤔

@@Codyjames83 is there any reason for you to even guess

Would it do any good to bevel that big port out, maybe it's grabbing the piston ring on the up stroke 🤔

@EleterHD ignition timing

I thought the exact same thing no 2 stroke smoke, she was dry that first minute of run time.

I thought same thing also

Bro if the crank seals were bad they would be pouring oil into the crank case and smoking like a son of a bitch and or pouring oil out the stator side causing a leak condition from the vacuum leak learn what you’re talking about before you comment some shit

@@thegoodjelly4950 depends on what side of the crank it's leaking on IF it's leaking, wet side would make it run rich or possibly leak, coolant side would make it burn coolant and smoke like a chimney, they're all possibilities. Instead of acting a fool, try actually helping without a bad attitude. Don't like it ? There's the door.

Why no smoke on first start?

OTC 5605. The best compression tester for $100 or less. Amazon. $94 right now. The snap on one is the same kit in a red box.

Not that this has anything to do with the video or what you said but guys tend to put way too much oil on the piston/rings/ and cylinder and then idle it for 20 hours. They end up glazing the cylinder and the thing doesn’t seat the rings. I’ve seen it happen before and had a dude who had blow by at 10 hours. Cylinder was in spec, rings were in spec. Rebuilt it, rode decently after letting it warm up and then ripped it, no blow by at 40 hours, you need a couple heat cycles if it’s a forged piston though due to the structure of the metal and built up stress that needs to be released as it warms up and expands, and cools down and shrinks.

@@tpghl5225 there is no such thing as over lubing your top end on assembly

@@aaronbright5028 yes there is, over oiling the rings, cylinder, piston etc on a fresh top end can cause issues just as much as too little oil. I’m a small engine service technician, it’s stuff they teach you about lol. I’m not just a RU-vid mechanic I do this stuff for a living. A small amount of oil is fine, I wouldn’t start a 2 stroke up completely dry on a fresh rebuild. But just don’t go nuts with it. As well as the heat cycle break in is not necessary at all with a cast piston, I don’t do heat cycles and use cast pistons on my 2 strokes and they make tons of power and last a long time. Never blown a bike up before and I ride pretty hard.

@@tpghl5225 Ive been the head mechanic at 2 different motorcycle dealerships. I became head of shop at 14 when I started and since then I've built every engine from a small block chevy to a cbr954 all the way down to chainsaws and generators. Born and raised in 2 strokes. Out of probably 1200 or more engines I have only had one issue with over lubing and that's smoke on startup. Never fouled a plug never "glazed" my crosshatch. My top ends drip oil from them when I install them. If over oiling was possible I would have found out already man. 15 years experience half at a dealership and I've heard over oiling myths for all of it. Just listen to the dumbasses that think less premix is more power on a 2 stroke and it's completely opposite. But nobody ever tried it they just follow the myths.

@@aaronbright5028 I’m not questioning your seniority at all, I think the main thing comes from idling a fresh motor without much of any change in rpm when these guys do heat cycles especially if the cylinder doesn’t have a fresh hone. Majority of these guys on here in the comments have worn cylinders, don’t own a torque wrench, and never check their ring gap so it’s really the least of their worries either way but my main point in other comments I’ve said on other videos is just letting the bike idle all day long on the first couple startups. This definitely doesn’t seat the rings as would putting some load on it/just riding it. But like I said forged pistons are a different story on the heat cycles as they do need a few, although you still shouldn’t just idle it

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Ding ding ding, my thoughts exactly, that and not checking quite a few other reasons for the original failure

Piston clearance is a must totally agree and richer oil mix for run in just incase

@@backyardbangers1012 RICHER FUEL to Air ratio!

@@glenholmgren1218 that too but more so oil. Dont wanna wash the cylinders bud

Piston should NEVER be above the cylinder deck. I bet it was tapping the head outside of the squish area. The piston does cock with inertia while running. To me it sounded terrible while idling. Almost like piston to head.

@@devinlawson4093 then you'd see a lot of damage on the head, i had the same when my crankshaft failed and the whole head looks all dented and messed up.

@@devinlawson4093 when he took the engine apart, it looked dry AF. i recommend lubricating everything with 2 stroke oil when assembling.

Yeah i was looking for this comment and here it is. That's what caused the damage. I know the frame maybe don't have the room for the cylinder to fit in the right way in that case you should remove entire engine to put the cylinder on and then put the engine on the frame.

@@Chris-ru5eq so it was the last video he posted of it,when he put the top end together.and yes,he does find some good machines,I just wish he would listen to some good advice from time to time.usually,I just get smart ass comments from the kids that watch him.worked professionally on bikes quads and snowmobiles for 40 damn years,I know a little bit of what I'm talking about on that stuff.actually had someone tell me the other day that you can put a new chain on old sprockets!!! Lol,that just dont work out!!

@@andrewion88 Exactly!!!

@@Chris-ru5eq seen that!! Hell,He'll, time I just said that a set of impact sockets is cheaper than a hospital visit,and you should have seen the shit storm that it brought on me.little kids telling me I have daddy's money and shit,and I was just trying to look out for him.i try really hard to not comment anymore.

Yup.

Most likely

Damaged and squashed the piston and ring grooves by doing all those squish checks (4 times) earlier in video

@@alanparis7256 I was gonna say the same lol should have used putty

@@alanparis7256 I think a piston is to soft to be using solder anyway. I know a lot of people do it that way but I’d be afraid to. It takes a bunch of pressure to mash solder especially with a soft aluminum piston

I get what you are saying and where you are measuring but you'll have to break it down Barney style for those that don't know. There is a go/no go in any service manual. Thumbs up!! Pops

Smart

Re route it and wrap it with reflective heat tape where it comes close to the carb to. Is there anything in between the exhaust and fuel tank to block heat? I do not think that either one of these were an issue this time it’s got to be something with clearances

@@brandywine1548 no I’m not saying that’s what caused the problem I’m saying get rid of the fuel line away from as much heat is possible just to be on the safe side I say you split cases put a hot rod crank make it a 700 mL port polished ahead put a CP Perillo piston fuck Wiseco get a good set of tires Reeves and redo that motor Charnette plastic back up new seat cover new hand guards it take that down throttle off and put a dirtbike throttle on it and you will have a bike on your hands that everybody is dying to get it

I was thinking this too when I seen that I was like that seems a bit close

hahaha

hahahahaah

I’ve owned an 88 quadzilla that rebuild from the ground up elkas/good quality parts etc..it looked beautiful when it was done but it wasn’t what I expected it to be then I bought my first banshee I’ve owned rode it once then sold the quadzilla … the quadzilla has some issues that can’t be corrected… even with elka shocks it handled pretty ruff

Supposed to have a piece of solder on both sides of the cylinder. Wasn't done correctly to begin with.

@@specgoos that’s what I thought also but I wasn’t sure. I’m not to up on 2 strokes but I build a lot of four stoke motors

@@specgoos and lined up with the wrist pin.

I was thinking the same thing and I’ve seen several people on RU-vid check the squish with solder . It looks like to me that it would put a extreme amount of pressure on new parts. Plumbers putty or play-Doh left in the fridge for a little bit works best

I’ve seen multiple people use solder , it doesn’t hurt the cylinder or piston

@Kevin Stearns kinda impossible for some. There’s no one in my area that will do the machining or check specs. So I’m forced to send it off. KOR hasn’t done me wrong

Yup

I noticed that too.

@@kurtyoung6769 Sometimes it’s a small as shit as a tear of the motor back apart split cases put a hot rod kit in it port and polish the head bore out the jug up to a 700 mL get you a nice CP Perello piston fuck Wiseco make that thing a 700 mL quad banshee Then put a throttle grip like a dirtbike ass and get rid of that dumb shit in new plastic and you’re going to have one hell of a rare motor swell not motorcycle 4Willer on your fucking hands that everybody will want

One other thing you the cylinder may have still had the residue from honing as you only swished it, that I noticed an it will stick your rings.

50;1 is leaner than 28:1

@@noidontthinksolol ya I know that, I own several 2 strokes and 28:1 is way to rich, I run my bikes at 40:1, 50:1 is to lean that's for weedeaters and chainsaws

Yup

Yes I heard a little tick just before it quit running.

90% sure that’s ring gap/compression issue

@@danielthomas7318 Or jetting....should be up at least 2 on each.

Always a fun time! haha

But when you get them fix they are hella fun

@@johntrout7572 oh of course

The shop that did the bore triple check that clearance and made sure it was perfect. They even called weisco to ask about it.

@@2vintage it doesn't matter if the shop has done it 15 times when you get it back you double check to make sure because that is 100% the shops failure to do the procedure correctly the other issue that could have happened when they board the cylinder out they may not have had the torque plates if you don't torque the cylinder in between the specs that it's supposed to be clamped down by you can actually have a bore job that isn't round

@@2vintage the fact that the shop had to call wiseco to ask for a clearance that on the instructions in the box of the piston shows their non-knowledge of motors because if boring out cylinders you should know what the clearances need to be I know right off the top of my head what the clearances need to be for every inch of bore

@@2vintage Why didn't you check the ring gap? This is how you know.

The cr250 manual says Ring gap .016 to .022 Piston to wall clearance .0024 to .0029.

i saw that it kinda looked like the piston was to high up the cylinder with head off looked like above the top of cylinder im with u on this one this is the cause an when the pison has nowhere to go it bent the pin clamped the rings an compression was lost somehow possibly bending rod but if the pin was bent maybe lucky either way rebuild crank an rod measure everything 50 times lol seals crank bearings must be a measurement for cylinder height get measurement of cylinder yea yyou can do it you must just think like a mathematition

He never uses assembly lube and he really has no clue what he's doing

Aluminium and lron both metal, one ferrous one non ferrous

My Englisch is Not that good all ppl how know what they are doing know what i mean ;)

Definitely not a fuel issue, would’ve reved to the moon or had an erratic idle etc if it was THAT lean. My bet is the rod is tweaked

he halved the oil but did not halve the gas. so it was actually 14:1 ratio.

@@mike4637 Exactly. Premix is calculated in Liters, not gallons. He basically unknowingly ran 14:1 which is so lean, it blew up.

And get rid of that amsoil it’s garbage lol

There was no issue with head clearance and just like I told the last bean pole crank seals would make the oil leak into the base like hell and it would smoke it’s ass off y’all need to learn how to build a motor

Now that I see cylinder ther should be more oil residue. I'm thinking fuel/air/oil issue.

Plume smoke ... Uhhhhhh... I didn't see much .. but ok... If I would fire up my moped on 28:1 I would end mosquitoes on earth ... Yep😐... It's seems to be fubar but I'm not wrench guy... But im the master of blowing shit up.. and yr screwed ..

Every quadzilla i ever rode with through the years didnt last a complete riding season. When they are running good they are beasts though.

Dont forget it was a drag bike.

@@SketchyXC 4 motocross season on my250 ( 48 races + 3 desert races) and close to 500 miles on the 500of desert and no problems 80 t0 1 for desert, 100 to1 for mx, for my 500 80 to 1.

@@dalestephan6777 80:1 in my old 4mil banshee and that thing ran pinned for stretches of 20+ miles on amsoil dominator. I heard they changed the formula since then though. I may try the Motorex when my 99 banch is done

@@SketchyXC one day I ask my engine builer about buying a banshee. He just smiled and said 2 piston double trouble and double the cost. Lol stuck with the 500.🙂

People don't understand this but the more oil you put in the gas you actually lean out the fuel because if you have a full jar of fuel let's say now you dump out half that fuel and add half oil now you're running half the amount of fuel that you were before so take that theory and apply it to an ATV what you have to do is you have to tune the bike for the ratio that you're going to burn so if you plan on running 32 to 1:00 you have to get the bike at 32 to 1:00 because if you then mix it at 28 to 1:00 now your fuel mixture is leaner because of more oil people don't think of that when they're mixing up two stroke oil he has no idea really what the guy did to tune the bike and the fact that the clip is all the way at the top of the needle tells me that whoever tuned it most likely doesn't know what they're doing because you should start with the clip in the middle position on the needle and because that pipe has been cut and re-welded and what not it's not going to work the same as it did before you could have the bike tuned right to the nuts in the quadzilla frame but then when you put it in the Banshee frame and cut the pipe in order to re-angle it so that it will work on the banshee so you can't even really look up factory getting specs because your pipe isn't a standard quadzilla pipe cuz it's been cut your intake isn't the same so the bike's not going to run like it would if it was in the quadzilla frame just because of the exhaust and intake so he needs to get someone that knows what they're doing have it jetted correctly but he should most likely just start over take the motor out split the cases check all the transmission gears put new crank seals in it all new seals all the way around and start fresh get a cool Head for it or just sell it because he does not have the skills to build and maintain that motor I would never use a quadzilla motor they're just known to be plagued with problems

Sorry for the long response but in order to say what I need to say it can't be answered in three words make fun of me because I don't have proper punctuation if you want but my time goes into building motors not being an English teacher

Nvm this is the stupidest comment I’ve seen tonight, if the piston hit the head you would notice it on not only the top of the piston but the head itself please actually ride a bike before you comment stupid shit