Queen Adrian Swarm/Split Mistake? (Follow UP Video) 

Nice job Jim, you didn't do anything "wrong". Like I've said before there are no absolutes in beekeeping, just levels of efficiency. Furthermore bees are about as individualistic as people, some react the way you'd expect, some (fairly rare) are just nuts and unpredictable. Your other option would have been when you took this old queen out for the split today, you could have went back to the split you made before in the Nuc and put that mature cell back in the original hive. If I recall, you also put the other frame in the split that had cells started on it...it also could be put back in the original hive INSTEAD of the big queen cell...either one would work. What you did should also be fine***** 6 of one, half a dozen of another type of situation. The developed queen cells will gain a few days over new cells just now being made is the only consideration and at this point in the season it's not a big deal. Just consider watching the development of that second frame of queen cells you put in that first split Nuc...you may have extra queens there you can use if you want and can time it right. They'll all go to waste if that big pretty cell hatches first...she'll tear down and kill all others in there. Bee careful with that big queen cell too, go look at a queen rearing calendar...there's a couple or three days when they are super fragile. **** thebeeyard.org/queen-rearing-calendar/ **** Moving that old queen should solve the swarming issue, once she realizes she is in a new space (which she knew after the first 30 seconds) and that her colony population is low, she'll get back to work and be fine. Of course some queens are just prone to want to swarm. I'd add that if this turns out to be the case, that is not a trait you want to promote through splitting and reproducing her line...so keep track of her offspring down the line and take note of that possible trait. This is where you begin to get into much more advanced beekeeping, welcome to beekeeping 103. Lol She wasn't likely to swarm since you were in the hive and moved that big uncapped queen cell.... until enough time passed that they were able to build and cap another one. Always remember you generally have until that cell is fully developed and capped. The last day the old queen will stop laying eggs and her abdomen will shrink so she can fly easier. Once she swarms into a new home she'll take a day'ish to get back into laying mode and get going, longer if there is no comb to lay in. What you really accomplish by forcing a controlled swarm is a few things: 1. You keep the old queen 2. You get the colony increase 3. By forcing a swarm the bees that would have left never gorge themselves on what stores they have put away already. They do that so they can draw out new comb fast and reduce lag time in building a new colony. Problem is that is a flows worth of honey you'll never get back, it's just gone when they swarm.

What a cool guy he admits when things go wrong unlike other RU-vidr's who are never wrong.

You have one of the best and most well put together RU-vid channels I have come across!

In your 3 years of beekeeping it seems to me that you have all the right instincts! You have expanded your apiary, for the most part, in making the correct decisions. Your most important trait is that you are willing to accept constructive criticism, and make adjustments where the criticism is warranted. Outstanding Jim! You are going to wear that new Maxant spinner out!!

Queen Abigail! St. Abigail was an actual bee keeper in the 6th century. She is the patron saint for honeybees and beekeepers.

I just want to mention that my dad got me a bunch of socks with bees on them for my birthday. He knows I love your channel

I do not support your thesis of being 'wrong'. Your comfort for 'failing soon' and taking risk is total innovation. Very little is 100% predictable in nature. You are helping us all learn. Thank you.

Cracked me up when you told them they just swarmed!

You definitely made a mistake, not yelling "ADRIAN!" every time you find her on a frame.

I cannot believe how addicted i am to your channel. No matter how beezy i am, i must watch the bees!!!!

MrEd, JP, DirtRooster and yourself! I've no beekeeping experience other than watching you guys! And I really enjoy it. Thanks for keeping the little ladies healthy. You do great with the bees and the vids. Thanks!

Your video production (camera work, editing, SOUND EFFECTS) are so great. The sound effects, man. XD

I agree with this decision to move the queen to stop the swarming. On a side note. A hive with in swarm mode you can always use it as an opportunity to “raise” queens. Just keep checking and pulling any frames with cells and make more splits. Then when you have what you want, pull the queen. Just another idea for future expansion.

Nice job Jim! Moving the orig queen should be the "fix" you needed. With a frame of brood added, they are less likely to abscond. See ya next week!

I have been taught you should put the queen in a new box but in the same position as the original hive. So you move the original hive position and the flying bees stay with the queen in the new box. A little bit more to it than I have explained, in the UK it’s called pagden. You are treating it as a walk away split and I am super interested to see the results.

Dave at barnyard bees puts the queen in a queen cage, hangs her in a tree or a box and lets the bees build their own swam then just drops the whole lot into a box.

My thought is that leaving the queen in a single box in the busy season with the queen excluder is making them feel cramped, regardless of how many boxes there are above. No reason...just a feeling. I would do two boxes with an excluder above and a honey box (super?) on the top. 🙋🏻‍♀️

BRB. Coffee and a vino farms video. Wonderful . I split a hive last night. Ended up with my best queen in my swarm nuke. Thank you for the videos. Ps- you do great :)

You've got some gentle bees. If I open mine up when it's cloudy they get pissed.

Love the sound effects!They make me laugh!

I am sure you get a tidal wave of "you did this wrong and this and this" however your channel is an endless mountain of information I would have never known once I get my hives. So thank you for that Jim

Vino....everything that people say you are doing "wrong" I promise you comes from a perspective of truly wanting you to succeed! Don't take it negatively...it is just your community caring about you. Another thing to remember about comments from the viewers...as the saying goes with beekeeping... "ask five beekeepers their opinion on how to do something and you will get ten different answers"

Jim, see Jeff Horchoff’s videos on splits. I find his idea of “demoralizing” the Queen makes the most seems to me in explaining why beeks do what they do.

Ah, when those dulcet tones of light jazzy pop come floating through--you know it's gonna be a good one!

What do you think is the max number of hives you will have? You seem to “bee” (lol) expanding so fast.

I was so glad to see this follow up. They had so many swarmy signs. I think you made the right choice to move her. You definitely have better chances of not losing her this way. Stopped one this way myself last month.

I've done the same thing as you originally did. A few made it some did not. We both know better now. I'm in my second year and the mistakes made already this year make me sick - it gets expensive when you let new queens fly away in front of you by releasing her incorrectly. I'm rooting for you and watch all your videos. I sometimes think about making videos but you are such a high standard why bother! Keep 'em coming.

Excellent. Great Job I think this was the best thing you could do. That was swarm management 101. Now you have your original queen ready to build the rest of the summer and two new colonies (hopefully). Turn problems into solutions!

I think my favorite video's you post are the ones that have the word "Mistake" in them!!! I feel I learn more from those!

lol "don't forget to comment and tell me what I did wrong" love it, love your videos, keep making them, by far one of the best beekeeping series of videos. I didn't realise you'd done the same with the same stock of bees before, so I think you did right! just this time it didn't stop the swarming instinct . I'm learning all the time and very useful info for my bees at the moment, thanks for sharing

I did a split the same way you did at first. Mine turned out fine. My bees didn't swarm. I think you did the best thing by moving her this time since they were intent upon swarming. It's a good strong colony, and your new splits will both be great. I like your videos. They are smart and engaging, and all beekeepers do things in different ways.

I did an artificial swarm on a hive because they had lots of swarm cells. I moved the old queen to a nuc, just like you did, and the let the original hive finish making their swarm cells. The next week the original hive, without the old queen, swarmed 5 times. So I don't know if there is a right way or a wrong way to do these things.

The things we point out as “wrong” are only the mistakes we’ve already learned from by making them ourselves Jim....haha! I Enjoy watching your videos, and your journey in beekeeping, but I also genuinely want to help if I can and see you continue to succeed!

Have to say...you are the best! Your videos and your process have taught me every time, thank you!

Yeah, I did exactly what you did not even 24 hrs ago, and the new hive, with the queen was up in a cedar tree by 4pm last night. We were able to get the swarm in a 10 frame box, so at least we didn’t lose the queen. Now, I’m waiting for the original hive to requeen. But I’m not going to wait too long. I ended up with a laying worker hive last year after a swarm. I love your videos. Keep up the good work! 🐝

Started my first hive this year. Thank you for sharing. You are an inspiration as well as an educator. Much appreciated! I hope to split my hive this summer and have both survive the winter. Next year maybe will delve into the flowhive. Otherwise the honey extraction looks difficult. For me, It is all about the bees... always. so any honey would be a great bonus. I think the flowhive is how I found you in the first place :D. Thank You!! I concur with the other commenter... you need to call Adrian in your best Rocky voice when opening her hive :D !

At some point, the YT algorithm connected SciShow vids about bees to your channel and that's how I got here, but I'm glad 🥰. Good Luck!

Scatter some empty boxes around the yard. If they do swarm, you’ll be ready to catch them and bring them in 👏

You need to start building your own boxes and frames, It works out much cheaper and you will have the opportunity to sell some to other local Beekeepers.

This is so exciting! Now I’m on the edge of seat to find out what happens!

So I do not keep bees but I learned from this that if you want to make a few splits just keep pulling her queen cups and swarms and you can make a few splits thanks for posting your educational videos

I'll admit it - I know almost nothing about beekeeping. But I find these sort of videos fascinating where something happens and you have to react. It's like a serial novel.

I live in the Quabbin area of Massachusetts also and I would love to start Bee keeping, I love your videos and they have been very helpful in my decision. Keep up the good work.

I'm not sure you can make mistakes in beekeeping. Like life, it's all a learning experience. You try. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. You keep trying! I love your channel. You are a full year ahead of me in my own beekeeping journey and I learn something every time I tune in. I refer other beekeepers to your channel almost every week. You deliver a running commentary on what you are doing, why and what you hope to accomplish and most of the time it works out as planned. I'm sure it must be a lot of work to produce your vlogs but I look forward to each and every one! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for another well done video, I have this same problem with the swarm cell challenge. They make them as fast as I knocked a few down. I’m going to do this just have to find the queen, lots of bees so it may take a minute to find her. Thanks again for sharing, really hope it works out and Adrian stays in her new home.

What you did wrong: Your channel is simply too good, too well made and you have too much interaction with your viewers!... ;P Just kindling! I love your channel and have directed a few friends towards it that are interested in owning and caring for bees. May Queen Adrian love her new little summer palace and lets hope her royal daughters are good queens to the others!

I like watching the intermediate skill level you are operating at. You Tube is full of beginners and the experts can be found, but those missing a fine point now and then and correcting for it are rare.

Never a dull moment!

I love that you are as invested in the comments you receive as we are in your videos (and your bees).

Bees are so interesting and very fascinating. Been watching your videos for a year now and I am always learning something new. Keep up the great work.

You did it right. The queen is active so you want foragers to to support her. Leave her 1 or 2 at the most of frames of brood(capped), a food frame, honey frame and a comb frame. Then fill the rest of the box with foundation. I actually put her in a new box on the same location with the above giving the hive a new smell as well.

I am so excited for the next update!

Done it both ways. It will work just fine

I love your videos so much. You inspired me to get my own bees. You have helped me along with your videos. Thank you so much! Keep on Beekeeping.

I can't say that you did anything wrong. Bee wrangling seems to be very individual, what works for one, does not for another. For instance, my bees seem to look at queen excluders as ceilings, they just won't pass thru, at least most of them. Yet yours don't seem to mind at all. What you did in the first vid made perfect sense to me, because I've done the very same thing, and it worked. Sometimes though, the girlies have differing plans than ours. I think you teach us all something with every video, I know I learn something, so thanks and keep the videos coming!

You done great always move the queen in a split simulating a swarm it fools the bees

Just a reminder.....they get “swarmy” once a hive swarms and can throw off additional swarms from the same hive. Even though you did an artificial swarm, they don’t know the difference. Keep an eye on them after your virgin queen hatches, they might make more queen cells. All beeks learn something new all the time....they are not mistakes just a new lesson. Enjoy your channel!

Love watching your channel! Love watching you learn and sharing the process.

I’m not a beekeeper but I love your videosI can tell you really care about what happens to the 🐝 bees

Excellent video!! However this unfolds it is a success as we all learned something. I'm thinking that both ways work- and you will end with 3 colonies from the one. Fingers crossed buddy!

I just stumbled upon your channel a month ago and I am not the person who was really into bees BUT NOW I AM. Your channel is very interesting to watch especially with your fun personality and I have learned alot about bees I get so excited when you post a new video it just makes my day better. (Btw I already have binge watched it all) Keep up the great work!

Back to back Vino Farm videos.....well alright! (In my best Jeff Spicoli voice)

I just had this same thing come up 2 days ago. Made an artificial swarm and put the old queen into a nuc. I felt this has less risk on possibility of hive swarming. I'm in an urban area and didn't want a swarm going through the city. lol As always, enjoyed the video and happy about the follow up video.

You did good Jim. :) Now just have to see if: 1. Queenless colonies successfully requeen themselves. 2. Yo Adrian! thinks she did a swarm and kicks back into production. 3. Enjoy the learning experiences!

I think you do a fantastic job with your bees. I love your videos.

Can't argue with success seen it done both ways and she still would swarm funny little creatures.

Well done. So glad you’re man enough to amend as needed. That makes for a great beekeeper.

I would move the original hive to somewhere in the same yard. Place a nuc where the original hive was with the queen one brood comb (with no swarm cells) and drawn out comb and foundation. All the flying bees will occupy the nuc with the queen just like a swarm. The original hive thinks it has swarmed because it has no field bees.

Good job, great videos! like you said you have lost nothing yet but stand to gain another hive. Great videos love the channel. On my second year went from two overwintered to seven now with more splits to come I hope.

As a continuum to that other comment on dark comb...according to Les Crowder’s book Top Bar Beekeeping (page 60, I can send you a pic or 2 if you’re interested), the most fundamental way to prevent disease such as mites, wax moths, and larval diseases is to remove old black combs. Now you can’t do it in the exact same way as in top bar hives, but you can still remove the comb. (Paraphrased) “When larvae are raises in a cell, a cocoon is left behind. After hatching, the rough edges are chewed away, the shell of the old cocoon is varnished with propolis and beeswax, and a new egg is laid inside. This repeats. The cocoons accumulate, the thickness of the wall increases, the diameter of the cell decreases. Trapped between each cocoon layer is a bit of sealed larval poop. The comb is also stained from honeybees walking around and leaving bits of oil and propolis from their feet. The combs turn from white to black. The layers of cocoons become an area in which bacteria, fungus, and wax moth larvae can proliferate. Dr. Elbert Jaycox has found old combs increased the incidence of brood diseases. He recommended broodcombs be culled every 3-5 years, or whenever they could no longer see light shining through them when holding them up to the sun (but not longer than 5 years).” Les Crowder recommends (this is for top bar hives but can probably be used for Lang’s too) that when you’ve determined comb is too old to be used for brood anymore, you can use it one last time to harvest honey. I guess with Lang’s you could move them past an excluder then? Anyway, hope that gives you some food for thought. I’m not an expert, I don’t have any actual experience (yet) just reading from one!

I'm so excited and want to tell you that my hubby got me a bunch of black plastic (corplast) so I can make winter wraps like the ones you have. I so hope to get my bees through winter. I at at 7 hives now, my latest split has hatched the queen and should be going on mating flight in a day or so. Have learned tons from you. Thanks so much!

This is so so helpful - I think this is precisely the mistake I made at the start of this season (second season newbie keeper in the UK - our season seems to start a little earlier than you). Saw queen cells, made a split, but the new hive (queenless, w cells) hasn't successfully made a queen (yet) and the population of both has nosedived. Think that's partly because I've had to keep stealing eggs from the original hive to give the new one a chance to create a queen, but they also seem to have reacted badly to emergency verroa treatment, when they both seemed to get infested quickly. OR, I now wonder, was it exactly this problem and they both swarmed - I don't think so, I keep a good eye on them, but this has made me think. New hive (which should have taken the original queen, I now realise) now has some beautiful queen cells so I'm hopeful they can both build up again. Anyway, thanks so much Jim, your videos are BY FAR the most useful beekeeping resource I've come across and I'm really grateful especially for videos like this where you're thinking aloud and going over 'mistakes' - it's invaluable and encouraging and I'm really delighted you make them - thank you!

Good to see the inter-webs directly influencing creators reality and providing constructive and informative advice on noble endeavours by noble people. I need this information as well, great channel, thanks.🐝

I find beekeeping interesting. I hope your hives work out. I cannot offer any advice but have learned a lot by watching you with your hives and enjoy the videos.

I don’t move the queen unless I find a capped queen cell. Once they cap one it’s next to impossible to keep them from swarming. As long as there’re eggs and the queen cells aren’t capped you’re fine. Just keep a closer eye on that colony and keep squashing cells until they get over it. To add on, it looks like you’re on a hell of a flow as fast as they drew those frames. Better start stacking supers, that adds space and can calm the swarming instinct.

You did great ! I know nothing about bees but love to learn and watch your channel always follow your gut ! Cant wait to see your next video and an update on queen adrian !!!

Just a comment here about your queen cups and queen cells, they are different. From what my bee proof taught us was that the ladies will build a queen cup somewhat randomly. Those look more like a gumball, spherical (?) and don't usually stick around more than a couple weeks (at least mine never did). The queen cells are going to be much more conical even from the beginning of their construction. My bee sense anyway! Love the vids!

It mimics natural swarming to move the queen to a new box and leave the QC behind. Interesting to see it reversed, can't wait for follow up vids 👍

Hi Jim - I am a noobie so what do I know :) - from what I have learned is you move the queen only to mimic a swarm. The queen is supposed to loose weight to be able to fly away easier in theory. You could also move the queen to a different site if you have the ability. By the way how are those resource 4 frame hives? I built some cutting some mediums in half and making 2 four frame boxes out of one. Using some extra pine board that is.I found it cheaper and easier to buy from local Amish supplier.

Long time beekeepers say bees are very forgiving as long as they are healthy.

The very best teachers are our mistakes. You learn well, and, from that knowledge, teach well. - Nice Job... A few points of interest: The moved Queen to the nuc can easily lay up a frame full of brood in three days if she has the comb and bees. Keep an eye on her NUC so she has room. The Queen cells in the original Hive are swarm cells, although new. These will make the best queens. Now that the Queen is gone they will most likely also make a lot more emergency cells, less desirable. You should later have many cells for more splits if needed or just destroy all but a few of the best cells to help prevent after swarms.. Again, I enjoy your channel..

Great videos! I think you did a good job, changing the ratio of foragers and brood will interrupt the swarm impulse. Once they get into major honey flow they will only think about getting nectar and you can relax. There are so many ways that Beeks do splits or overall management. The good news is you can always recombine if the split doesn't take. Can't wait to see all the honey you're going to take in this year!

Awesome job by everyone (Jim and everyone who commented here).

I have done splits both ways and both have succeeded. Also a big colony can swarm three to four times with the mated queen and virgin queens. You could split the colony once or twice more to make sure they will not swarm and loose the swarm. You will have a lot more nucs from colonies like this one. I think what you did in this video has a very good chance of succeeding.

What does the bottom of each box look like? How do the bees go from one box to another? ~ 01:39 What is the Square-within-a-Square in the hive top? ~ 02:55 Could you tell us more about Bee Bread?

Don't forget to start pulling the frames with dark comb! With all of the stuff left in the wax, they can promote disease. Try to get them to be used for resources, and then pull them out and put them somewhere to get robbed and cleaned out. You can then melt and clean the wax for other uses, but making a wax foundation for frames would probably be a good idea if you can, to replace the plastic foundation frames.

Great videos, Love your channel. Have you read about or looked into building a "taranov board"? Taranov Swarm Prevention.

Hail and Good Morrow from the Oil Patch in Central Wyoming! I have been studiously watching and saving your videos as your journey continues in the realm of beekeeping! Unlike yourself, because I have a severely bad back and neck, I will be using the langstroth top bar Hive Style in my beekeeping, once I relocate from Wyoming to Alaska! The key aspect of your videos which I truly enjoy is the honesty which you maintain in your presentations! You show the UPS, the downs, and you keep the editing to a minimum, which technique I hope you maintain because it provides superb continuity! I also happen to find your openness toward suggestion from the comments section to be a positive in your videos, and I have re-watched several videos to get the most knowledge from them. The only negative aspect that I have seen repeatedly in your videos, is the lack of transparency in costs concerning your activities in the bee yard! What I mean by this is that you are not addressing the budgetary concerns of your beekeeping. This is important to me because I am poorer than dirt: my gross income last year was $8,262. My budget is exceedingly minute, I must literally check where every penny is going as I am also physically impaired and I'm only able to work a couple days a week if I can get work; so the pricing items is key to me. When you need to split a hive, you just go and get more Deep's, or supers, or excluders, or nuke boxes, or those Splendid side by side units, the name of which I currently forget, that I dearly love. Basically, from what I see you using, you just go grab hundreds and hundreds of dollars of materials and supplies, as if that were just the most normal thing in the world! When I relocate to Alaska, my goal will be acquiring native swarms, and/or purchasing one nuc from a local beekeeper. I will be making my own hives because I cannot afford to Simply go out and buy langstroth top bar hives pre-built , they are just too expensive especially considering shipping to Alaska. What I'm requesting of you is to explain the financial side of your bee yard and your actions in the bee yard, with the understanding that most aspiring and actual beekeepers are not in your financial position. I'm not trying to be negative in this concern, I'm merely stating a real-world fact of what I believe to be the case, which is that most people who are beginning beekeeping or who want to begin beekeeping simply do not have the financial resources to procure the items that you seem to be taking as par for the course. Thank you for taking the time to produce what I believe to be some of the finest beekeeping videos on RU-vid! Take care and I look forward to your next installment! Cheers from the Oil Patch in Central Wyoming!

What did you do wrong? Nothing really, you did what you thought would work, therefore you did the best you could with the resources you had at hand. You're the best bee dad you can be!

the one thing many people misunderstand is the queen is not the one that chooses to swarm. the nurse bees are the ones making that decision. i don't subscribe that the queen lays an egg into a queen cell. i believe the nurse bees move the egg into a queen cell they have built. or they transform a regular cell into a queen cell. that's how a walkway split works, right? the queen is already gone yet the nurse bees still make new queen cells. by pulling the queen with a smaller population of bees with some young brood for those nurse bees to work, they are less likely to abscond. the original hive could still swarm if the remaining nurse bees think the population is large. because if you have more than one queen cell, the nurse bees will decide whether they let the first hatched queen kill the other queen or if they instead protect the other cells and shoo her out to swarm... of course, all of that may be conjecture, but it makes more sense to me than any other explanation i've heard :)

Looks good hope it works out for you

Jim, you NEED to check out Mel Disselkoen’s OTS Queen rearing. It works and can make your life much easier.

Things you do right: Educate! Loved seeing the definition of bee bread on the previous video. Would still love to see diagrams/draw-overs explaining all of the various "patterns" that you keep mentioning.

2 Videos in one week?? A dream come true!!

I don't know much about bees but I'm sure you did the right thing. Hopefully Queen Adrian stays put and the other hive makes a new queen. I always enjoy your videos :)

I do think that you are past the stage where you make screw ups. Mistakes, small errors, but no screw ups.

As I was watching, before you made your move, I suggested that you create a swarm trap with lemongrass oil and (hopefully) catch any swarm that may happen. I am not a beekeeper; I have only learned from watching your videos and a "Mr. Ed" Jeff Horchoff in Louisana.

I have watched most of your videos from the time you got a hive from your neighbor, you are close to your bees, on this video, I believe you made the right choice. However, to prevent further need for swarming, chose the fattest queen cell and destroy the other queen cells so that they will not have an option of swarming. I am from Nairobi, Kenya

It seems like they may be trying to supersede her. A lot of the cups are mid frame not on the bottoms of the frame. The other thing is maybe they just want a bigger brood area. Give them a double deep instead of a single deep. My swarm trap hive was packed and ready to explode, do I gave them more space. Will throw on a super next. Can’t wait for a recap on this latest adventure.

Hey Vino, So not removing the queen wasn't a mistake, it was just a different direction, but it does keep the swarm tendency higher then if you remove her. When you go into the hive thats making queen cells again reduce the number of cells to 3 once the are capped so they don't produce a caste swarm with so many cells to hatch. Even with the queen gone there is a chance for a caste swarm from a strong hive. If you watch some commercial beekeepers they don't split by removing the queen they let the queen work 2 deeps and then split the hive in half and add a queen cell to the queenless half, and add a super to give the bees space once again. Its a pretty typical way to do splits, but removing the queen in your case is giving the nuc instant growth potential vs a small weaker nuc waiting 30 days to get a queen, and potentially making a weaker queen without the resources of a full strength hive. I would like to add that a way to reduce swarming is by managing strength, so you would basically take excess capped brood from the strong hives and share it with all the hives that are lacking in comparison, so you balance your bee yard and all the hives are able to produce the best they can. you may consider that for your next approach to swarm prevention. I'm working 11 hives now and am continuing to grow, nice to see your still wanting to grow more too. What is your hive limit? I know 20-30 hives typically is a max for one location before they start sharing resources, are you getting there then stopping? or going to open a new yard in the future possibly? Cheers, Kelly From Ontario.