In love with this series, I LOVE my 2003 zr7s, perfect speed for me. This series has helped with some repairs already and I love seeing how much your channel has grown!
7:20 its very easy if u warm them up a little bit with a hairdryer or smth like that then they will easily fit in the hole. if the rubber is too cold it gets stiff.
Wow that is so helpful! I'm more than likely going to have to clean out the carbs again at some point, and I will definitely remember this! Thank you so much!
Todtiger you would be surprised at what you can do when you make your mind up to do it. There's plenty of help out here in virtual space just look at all the videos you can stand, and pick and chose the parts that you feel comfortable with.
Got same bike...bought it a few months ago. It had torn rubber manifolds on both sides of the carbs. Had them replaced and the carbs cleaned. New feul lines mounted and all hassle was gone. 😊 To bad it coast a lot.😢
@@nathanholm7584 My bike runs fine but at the moment its Parked in the garage for winter. Its now like 1deg. Celcius so just above freezing temp. in The Netherlands.
Omg you are so patient My carb boot partitialy cam off tried putting on and all four came loose. Straight to kawasaki Am I old impatient or useless. Like all your videos
I did not! You most definitely can do that, but you don’t have to. You should be able to just wiggle everything out with a little bit of finagling. The cables are actually what’s holding the carbs up when it’s on the side
You missed one thing: -lnstall the needle jet holder, noting the following: The #1 and #4 carburetor has 0.7 mm x 14 holes [A] The #2 and #3 carburetor has 0.6 mm x 18 holes [8]
Awesome video. I'm in the middle of the reassembling but these boots ... how can I put them back to positions? I spent an hour without success. I hate this construction.
There really is no good way! It helped a lot that I have long and thin fingers, but it’s really just a matter of squeezing them on carefully after pushing them through the inside of the box. Someone told me that it also helps if you use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm up the boots, it apparently makes them softer and easier to handle!
That's a nice zr7s, what year is it? I have a yellow 2003 at 46K km and just cleaned my carbs, with every part undone, went back to your video for reference for some tube routing I forgot hahaha
Also, it would be good to clean upper part of carbs. I can bet that needles are not in good position. They should be the same on 1&4 carb and 2&3.It seems that here there are same at 1&3 and 2&4. Thanks for video, but this is half done job. And lost of time if You leave it without sync. Cheers!
I couldn’t agree more. Next time I own a bike, I’ll make sure to do that. Also, I should’ve made it more clear that this isn’t supposed to be a tutorial by any means haha. When I owned this bike, everything was very much a learning experience and this was just a video in a series of “this is what I’m doing” rather than “this is how to do it”.
@@RonaldFinger I watched it because I was wondering can I reinstall air box/carbs with tubes mounted on a/b. Clearly not! 😕 I do a lot of mechanics but sometimes YT is ussefull. 😊 P.S. I always put carbs on table, never do it attached on bike, it's perfect way to mix or lose something... 😂
Did the exact same stuff, started it back up and 2 of the carbs seems to be leaking out of one of the screws on it(not the 4 that connect the bowl) is it a float issue or gasket issue? Any help please
I need to do this on my ZR7s, Im not the most confident mechanic so this is really helpful. A couple of questions. 1. Do you need to drain the tank, or do you just need to turn the petcock to off. 2.Where are the idle jets.
1) There actually is no standard off position on this bike’s petcock. The On and Reserve position is the “off” position. Fuel will only flow on those settings if there is a vacuum pulling it, so only when the engine is running. As long as it’s not on Prime, fuel won’t flow. So just keep it on either of the other two settings and just drain the bowls. 2) The isle jets are right next to the other two jets I took off. Basically just take out the three brass fittings. I hope this helps!
Thanks for that, it does really help, its one of the main things that has been concerning me about it. Now all I need to do is get some carb cleaner and a few free hours (the hardest thing to find :) ) . Many thanks.
No problem! I know it’s intimidating at first, but once you get started it really isn’t that bad. It gets way easier after you’ve done it multiple times too!
@@RonaldFinger you know all the sizes and tools for taking this apart and synching the carbs as well? Bout to buy one of these babies and she will need a thorough cleaning
Hey JJ, I can't recall the exact sizes, but a standard metric socket set should be able to take care of the brass fittings and a screwdriver for the bowl screws. I've never actually synced the carbs when I did this, so I'm not sure what the tools would be for that. Have fun with the bike though! I really enjoyed mine.
Hey im working on a bike just like this one but i have 3 screwed that won't come out ive tried the impact driver and it just made it worse.. Would really appreciate the help...
Yeah as Richard said before me, they are not normal Philips head sizes, you need the correct tool, and once you have them out get hex/allen bolts to replace them.
That’s probably something that should have been done, but I did not. It hasn’t been running rough though! But to do this job the right way, I do recommend doing it.
It might be a little frightening at first, but it's not so daunting once you start! It'll just take an afternoon at the very most, maybe a little longer if your float bowl bolts are all seized and stripped like a few of mine were. But impact drivers and heat are friends! :)
Ahh, okay! I never knew what that was. Thanks for letting me know! The bike ran perfectly fine for the next year of me owning it, it’s sold now, so I’m assuming no more got in there. Very interesting how it got there in the first place though
