@@JBMountainSkills you keep doin em, well keep watchin em! Thanks for your generosity in sharing these.... I hope your business feels the benefit when we can all get back out on the rock! I certainly know where I'll be looking if I need an instructor/ guide in Wales. (Not sure how likely that is mind). Your style and demeanour exudes confidence and professionalism. Good stuff.
Nice one, Jez. You might need an assistant for this one but how about a vid on stance/rope management for multipitch routes, possibly with half ropes? I always end up with a bit of tangle going on
I only use materials that are dynamic to create all my belays now. I no longer use Dyneema. I have changed my philosophy to: the belay is the start of dynamic systems to protect the leader, the belayer, the rope, and the anchor pro. I no longer say as I did forever that "the rope is the only dynamic property that's needed, the rest just has to be bomber," which is not true. Factor 2 falls from the leader off the belay, and F2 slips and falls at the belay, (both accidents in my book) start with protecting the belay with the lowest possible impact forces first, and then the ropes ability to absorb and further protect is enhanced by the dynamic belay that was existing, not stressed more and damaged by non stretch materials of Spectra and Dyneema.
Hey Jez, I'd love to know how you'd approach this if the gear is too spaced out and you don't have the sling(s) to do it, say for example you're block leading and already built a belay at the top of pitch 1, so you no longer have a 240 on your harness. The obvious choice for safe seconding would be a good solid rope belay then rebuild it when your 2nd is at your stance but that brings in safety concerns while (re)building it. Multiple sling belays? Cordelette?? Are hybrid belays a thing and does that introduce safety issues if you were to mix rope and slings given that one will stretch and the other won't? Clearly i'm asking about the one in a hundred plus example and not an everyday thing.
If you use the rope it's ok, just a faff. When your second comes up they use your same anchors but with separate krabs and build their rope belay under yours.
@@JBMountainSkills makes sense. So either way you'd need 2 'sets' of belay building kit, get the 2nd to carry the spare then swap over at the belay. Thanks 👍
Instead of a clove hitch? Yes for sure. I think a clove hitch is fractionally stronger so I stick with that, but I'd have no issue with a girth hitch / larks foot either.
