My piano sure could use this work. It's a 1935 Krakauer Bros. (Brooklyn, NY) Louis XVI Art Grand. It's all original with ivory keys and was tuned last in 1967. Don't know if this piano is worth restoring. It's price new was $650 at a furniture store in Los Angeles (purchased by my grandfather in 1935).
I appreciate your sharing these with us. Your craftsmanship is amazing and hopefully, you have someone who is learning from you to help take care of future pianos.
Also for your sanding @ around 13:00, you could try some pneumatic tools that are used in auto body work. I.e. DA sanders and an inline air sander. Harbor freight sells all three for reasonable prices. You say that you wear through sand paper quickly. That's because you're using an electric, handheld palm sander, which is too light duty for what you're doing. From working in an automotive body shop and doing lots of body work myself in the past, I can tell you that the automotive self-adhevsive sand papers are the way to go. They make sticky back and velcro-backed sandpapers are way better than any of the sand papers I see you using and you can cut them to size to fit your dremel sander. Any auto body supply store will have them in bulk. Also, there are bondo files you can use to shave down bondo or epoxy without needing a sandpaper at all. These cheese grate style of files are cheap, and great for saving sandpaper work and take off the majority of buildup of bondo and/or fiberglass/resin buildup. Again, you can get these in various shapes at your local automotive body supply or online.
@@JacobEmch91 I saw you were actually using some pneumatic sanders later in the video for your finishing work. I posted my original comment before completely watching the video through. Anyway, great video and looking forward to seeing future repairs!
Thank you very much for this video. It is very detailed and worth learning from!!! I have a question, what liquid did you add at 10:36 seconds? What is its purpose? Thank you. Wishing you always good luck!!!!!💓
Thank you for the kind words. The solution is profelt. Which is used to size the felt to the brass caul. Unfortunately, the original producer stopped making it about a year ago. I think someone in Australia is starting to sell a similar product but I can’t think of what they named it at the moment.
Beautiful work guy. I really enjoyed your style of presentation. I use Sailkote by McLube on all key posts. Also great for any friction point. Keep it up. A sub from me
This is great that you're documenting the whole process! Was the restaurant giving away the piano for free? Hopefully! Because you really put a lot of time/work into this. The only thing I wish you had some footage of was moving the piano from its original site (even if just some B-roll). Great channel, and new subscriber!
Well done, Jacob! My 55 year old G5 has Pan Head Slotted Screws not flat head and they are not painted. Are they nickel plated but just oxidized? Can you roughly tell the age of a Yamaha piano by the type of screws used? The newer ones have Phillips Head screws. Also did you need to touch up the frame? What color/product would you use to match. Thank You.
Thank you, John. Many times, the screws that go into the pinblock are painted, and the perimeter screws aren’t. They might be nickel plated in your piano, not sure. Regarding matching the color on the cast iron plate, Yamahas are tough to match. I’ve got some bronzing powder to mix in lacquer for steinways, but it is too “gold” for Yamahas. Best of luck.
Ha - if I hear one more salesman say “it just takes a really good technician”… I’m thinking, “it takes a really good tech to deaden the tone enough so you can’t hear the deficiencies of the piano.” 😂
Hey man, i have a piano shop in the UK and I do a few poly repairs myself mainly scratches. I’m intrigued to know what product you’re using for the dents that you pour on? Excellent stuff!
@@JacobEmch91 Thank you so much for the reply! What RPM would you recommend for buffing black lacquer I am looking for the adapter to put my buffing wheel to my polisher. Could you recommend an adaptor?
@@ethan123456ish hi Ethan, I’ve never buffed nitrocellulose lacquer with a buffing wheel like this. You must make certain your piano is polyester. Alliedpiano.com will have everything you need. To answer your question, when buffing polyester I usually keep it on the highest speed.
i am positively surprised that it is possible to repolish a polyester surface of a piano. My old baby grand has a bigger problem, A large part of the polyester has flaked off, is it possible to replace it?
