Quick repair of passenger door wiring harness. 02 wj Grand Cherokee with no PW, FOB, P LOCK Control 

If you attempt to do a splice in the middle of the flexing part of the harness you will continue to have faults. You absolutely must replace the wire from the terminal in the connector clear into the door. That white thing is a connector and the pins (terminals) are easy to pull out. If that is done the repair will last a long time. The reason the ground wire breaks is because it is one of the larger gauge wires. I am a tech for a Mopar dealership. I have seen this before. This is a common problem on any car that has a large amount of wires going into the door.

Appreciate the video. We had similar symptoms and your video led us straight to the problem...broken black wire in passenger door. Thanks!

Obviously, I have not watched this video yet. Giving you a shout out anyway, because you took this on. Chrysler vehicles are known for electrical gremlins. I work on this kind of thing too, but only for my cars. I don't think I would have had the guts to do this one. Nice job! ❤ EDIT: Watched the video. Even more impressed.

Watched your video, went out and pulled the boot of the passenger side door harness and found the ground wire broken. Thanks for the heads up.

I can’t thank you enough! You just saved us a lot of time troubleshooting. That was exactly the problem.

I have some silicon jacket wire with tons of stranded. Designed to flex around tight bends. Had it for old Otis elevator application. May work.

Good Video. I've had that happen now, & also a few yrs back. Gonna spice it this time with a Coiled Wire ,, even if I coil the added splice wire myself ,, I feel the coil will take the stess off the Jeep wire 😎

I seen a fix on the Jeep Forum and that guy used all 12 guage green wire. Probably best to get multiple colors, at least 10. He stated the manufacturer used 5 different Guages ranging from 12-22 and crap wire materials causing issues with door harness wires. He added about a foot of wire, took out the cab connector and connected each wire via butt connectors that have heat shrink solder and covered them with heat shrink tubing. Then he took that extra wire with the butt connected ends and tucked all of it in the cab through the door harness connector &boot so the new thicker wires are solid and higher quality where the bend point is. He zip tied them to existing wires under steering wheel inside the paneling. Said it's lasted many years with no signs of drying, cracking or obvious wear. I haven't done this myself but honestly need to redo all the wires in the doors since my windows don't roll down, the driver power lock doesn't work but all other door locks are functioning with key fob. The power lock switch on door doesn't work on any door, the power mirrors don't work. The above reading light would turn on when the speedometer brightness dial was on any setting but off but fixed itself. I really need my windows to work.

I'm having the same issue right now plus my interior lights won't go off unless I manually shut them off with the knob. I also just replaced my oil sending unit lol. I was watching that oil pressure after you started it, I was thinking I know what that needs...

Yup. Better to pull wire through the connector by drilling a hole thru assembly. Check out amperage going thru wires and use appropriate gauge and be sure there isn’t any temp elevation. Temperature is major cause of insulation turning brittle. Splice inside the door and passenger compartment where flexing will not occur. The repair will take much or time but definitely a lasting one.

I never could get my FOB to work on my 2001 Dakota, Never checked for broken wires in the Door Boot, Never had no issues with anything else, Ended up just having a new Viper Alarm with Remote Start and Keyless entry installed, For way cheaper than Dodge wanted for a new BCM, That they say was bad, My " Rolling " door locks still work!, I love Chrysler Vehicles!, My Stepdad worked for them, But Wiring has always been there downfall, Esp. 1973 and before!, They used to run the main + from the Alternator all the way to the Ampmeter in the Dash!, Caused Fires and no charge issues if the gauge burned out, Also ran the High Amp Blower Motor Circut right through the Ignition Switch, In 1974 they changed this and more

Looks like the insulation on the wires has lost the plasticizer. Temperature gradients and age tend to bake plasticizers. Same gremlins on turn-of-the-century Mitsubishis. And I wholeheartedly agree about troubleshooting my own car.

Thanks for the video this is exactly what happened to me. The only thing I'm disappointed about is you didn't show how the be-Jesus you got the rubber boot back on the bracket!!

Also Chrysler from 1960-62 used a High Voltage in the Dash Lighting Circutry " 100+ Volts ", It's Electrolumanesent Illumination in the Cluster, Radio and Clock, I got Shocked big time on the Radio!

Would have liked to have seen the jointing, good video.

dorman does make a repair harness for this issue, i have purchased the kit for both doors, but i can't remember where i got it from or the part number

Well there is an aftermarket wiring harness available with longer, stronger wires to correct this problem. Lots of soldering and heat shrinking involved though. Thanks.

My wife loves her jeep but I'm always having problems with stuff like this I wonder if you sever the Wire in side and add heat shrink tube all the way down form in side to each wire to the plug if that may be a good fix😅

I've repaired quite a few, so i do understand your pain/annoyance. If the earth breaks, you might get away with a floppy braided wire with eyelets, door to chassis. (like you said). For the wires in the gator, i add a length of wire to each one. It pushes the joins into the door and body. Quality multimeter leads could be floppy enough to not break in the gator. Sorry im waffling again :-(

J, how about and alternate of: when you open the door, just don't open it more than enough than it takes for you to get in the Jeep? That way you get a lot more wear on the fix! Only open it a pinch!

Nice one. I have a 2000 Toyota Prado (3g 4runner) that has 255k miles on it. Tranny no. 2 but otherwise original 😀

Buy some hi flex silicone wire. We use it in automation equipment that is constantly moving. It's pricey, but it's fantastic stuff.

This happened to me 4x on driver side. When my door wont lock and windows wont roll I already know. I have my WJ for 20 years, repaired 5 broken off wires. Just did 2 yesterday. Its a WJ thing.

I have an ‘09 Town and Country that has a weird problem I’ve never been able to fix.,The instrument panel kills the battery if I let the car set unused for a few days.? I see the odometer flash on from time to time when everything is off. I brought it to a local garage and they traced this parasitic draw to the instrument panel. I drive with hand controls since I’m wheelchair bound and they didn’t want to take the hand controls out to gain access to the instrument panel. They suggested that I install a switch to cut off drain from the battery if it’s going to sit for a few days. I did this but it’s a real pain. I’d like to get it fixed right. Too bad it’s beyond the scope of my knowledge.

everything dies because the yellow wire is for the can network, black is ground, red is orange is B+, but the yellow wire breaks it takes out all you mentioned and the a/c in my wife's 03

I have problems with right window front and rear center look right mirror right hatchback lock

Mouser or Digikey might have wire the correct size but with more strands. It would be more flexible and should last longer. You also could use 2 smaller wires in series if there is room in that rubber boot.

Try marine grade silicone insulated wire. The strands are tinned and much finer and resilient to fatigue. The silicone insulation will not harden. Wire is available on-line In 5 spools 10 ft each of different color.

I just had the same problem in a 1998 Toyota le camery 4 door sadan

Best practice for broken door wires is to replace several inches / cm, preferably with a new crimped terminal at the connector at one end, and an inline crimp "butt" connector well away from the flex area. The splices should be some distance from the flex area. The connector terminals are often available either at a dealership with a pigtail attached or sometimes bare at digikey / mouser. Most bare automotive terminals require "open barrel" crimping dies. Often, single wires with attached terminals can be salvaged from a harness from elsewhere on a scrap vehicle that are not at flex points. So far as door harnesses stopping heater controls, this is often due to interruption or shorting out of a data bus and can sometimes stop much more. The biggest danger is a short to battery + power. Many control units are well protected against shorts to ground on a data bus but seldom for a short to 12v +.

honestly i am about ready to say forget the harness all together solder silicone insulated wires to the end of all these wires that get shut in the door (since they wont become brittle but be careful as they are easy to cut/tear) then, either wrap in elec tape or heat shrink them all together with some 3:1 marine grade with the adhesive inside

I have to do mine to😮

Do you do your own auto repairs as well; I mean stuff like the transmission, front end, etc…

My problem just started today and just watch the video I noticed lately the passenger side door was not blocking the vehicle now it has stopped can't open the back tailgate how do I open I do manually no keypad

Remove the harness and replace the crap wires with silicone 16-14 Ga tin coated copper fine stranded wire and heat shrink. This type of wire will never crack if done right. The Jungle website sells a ton of this type of wire.

Could you run three smaller wires to take place of the one large 'stiff' wire and maybe get more mileage? Just a thought.

Have a 95 grand Cherokee mechanically brand new the wiring in the drivers door is in sane taking it to the desert and burning it

I also have the 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I'm having ( NOW ) 2 issues. with a strong Battery and a 1/2 tank of fuel my motor will stall out. It won't show any Code faults on an OBD Reader !. If I let it sit for a couple of hours it will start back up... NOW, today I have lost control of the Power Windows, and all the other features in the Driver's door panel. The really sad part is I can no longer rely on the Vehicle being reliable.

the oil pressure gauge switch may be shorted. it does not indicate oil pressure.

JP, consider replacing the part of the harness where it flexes, using Teflon-insulated stranded wire of appropriate guages.

Moms 2003 grand Cherokee windows and door chime and AC stopped all at once Hopefully this helps?

Watching that oil pressure gauge take a dive nearly gave me a panic attack. Your “oh yeah, the sender is defective” came just soon enough

I have this problem, but the wires in the passenger door are not broken. Any help?

I've got an 87 ram van with broken door wires:(

Grazie

Can you help me i check every wire all good

Was this draining your battery?

I love that shes got 300k on od and running still

I think eBay now has wiring pigtails for these repairs. See them for Jeep not so much for Dodge.

You wouldn't happen to know the gauge of the wire would you?. I want to crimp my ground wire to fix it temporarily in the winter than in spring do a better hopefully more permanent fix.

touch this wire to the door jambs!

if it was me I would make a wiring harness for it I would of not keep fixing it

touch this wire to the door jambs! heat-shrink this guy down

304469 miles on that thing???!!!

Let me have that dart he😮

So basically the wires are getting pinched in the door frame and if you have an alarm and the doors do not indicate that they are properly closed it will keep setting off your alarm which will pizz you and your neighbors off Lol

Ebay

Yet another "quality" Chrysler product with just 1 more of their thousands of design problems!... More commonly called a POS!

Try junk yard

why not get rid of the connector and make your own harness

Mine's the biggest piece of shit vehicle I've ever owned. I fucking hate it. Every time I fix something about one week or two weeks later something else goes wrong. It's the biggest piece of garbage I've ever owned

Save yourself some grief. Do not buy Chrysler products.

mine has no problem just the rubber came out now i cant put it back.. whats the easiest to put it back