Quick rewire of a hoverboard wheel - $ave on your next robot project 

can those 3 wires of hall sensor & motors be connected in any order ?

🤣 wouldn't that cause the bolts and nuts to melt?

Lithium batteries are much better than lead acid in about every case, it just will cost more and be more complex and possibly more dangerous. As for charging lithium batteries with lots of series cell connections you can install a battery management system and charge it through it with a constant voltage constant current power supply.

@@mashedpotatoes5323 Agreed. I've had success with motorbike batteries which are super cheap and simple to use but no doubt lithium is worth the effort where possible

ZF terminal is pulled up to 5V with a 330 ohm current limiting resistor. If you connect nothing to ZF the 5V current limited signal will make its way along the bottom of the board to pin 5 of the 16 pin IC. The wheel turns in the first direction. If you use a switch to connect the ZF terminal to ground 5V @15ma will flow to ground, but pin 5 will also be at ground. The wheel will turn the other direction. [5v / 330 ohms = 0.015A] I mapped the traces on photos of the circuit board. The green trace is the ZF path. lowtechllcblog.blogspot.com/2017/12/rewiring-hoverboard-wheel.html The bottom of the blog page has a photo of the 330 ohm resistor. it is marked "331" on my board [ 33 * 10^1]. I don't know if all of the boards use a 330 ohm resistor. 15ma is a lot of current, maybe the designer expected the switch to be pretty far away from the controller.

Yes, colors should correspond. However, the wire color is not guaranteed to be the same (quality control problems from wheel manufacturers). This is the main reason I now use the motor driver that doesn't require the hall effect sensors. These replace the hall input with an LM339 quad comparator to act like the hall signals. www.amazon.com/Kangnice-Brushless-Controller-Voltage-Three-phase/dp/B071LDMZ99/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527686065&sr=8-4&keywords=36v+brushless+motor+controller www.ebay.com/itm/Brushless-Motor-PWM-Control-Controller-Balanced-BLDC-Driver-Board-DC-12V-36-500W-/222496547829?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 This is a link to photos and overlays of the original circuit that uses the hall effect sensors: lowtechllcblog.blogspot.com/2017/12/rewiring-hoverboard-wheel.html

No. It has a deadband where small input signals have no effect on velocity. Maybe you could pwm the velocity and the direction for tighter control but i think it responds too slowly on the direction input.

The direction is controlled by the "Z/F" terminal. It is pulled up to 5V with a resistor. It is connected to ground, or can be left open. The direction will reverse when the connection changes. You may need to stop, then change direction. The speed can be controlled with a PWM signal wired to the "Speed Vref" terminal. That would replace the potentiometer connection. Here is a link to some marked up photos of the board. lowtechllcblog.blogspot.com/2017/12/rewiring-hoverboard-wheel.html

Yes this motor controller requires the hall effect sensors, but other controllers do not need the hall effect sensors. You can use the motor without the hall effect sensors but get a motor controller that doesn't need them. Just for reference heres a link to a controller that doesn't use the hall effect sensors: www.amazon.com/DC6-5-50V-Brushless-Controller-Without-Dropship/dp/B0B24YC6XL/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=1MVXO43D5EDBD&keywords=brushless+motor+controller+without+hall&qid=1658346830&sprefix=brushless+motor+controller+without+hall%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-5

Yes. The board in this video must have the hall effect sensors connected. There are other boards that don't need the sensors. Here is a link to someone selling one on banggood: usa.banggood.com/BLDC-Three-phase-DC-Brushless-Hallless-Motor-Controller-ESC-Motor-Driver-Board-High-Power-p-1544114.html?gmcCountry=US&currency=USD&createTmp=1&ad_id=388194796019&gclid=CjwKCAiA44LzBRB-EiwA-jJipAM5Zpp-Oyvnv1R-MCQjLrhFs_mblKaFDsq_DOkvk4M9SjGCCe_49RoCGzwQAvD_BwE&cur_warehouse=CN

If you are using this motor controller (the one in the video) you need to connect the Hall effect sensors. But there are motor controllers available that do not use the hall sensors. Search ebay or amazon for Brushless DC motor controller no hall. You will find controllers that use a chip in place of the hall inputs, like this: www.amazon.com/LYWS-Brushless-Controller-Normal-Reverse-Control/dp/B06Y5H681T/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&qid=1546571948&sr=8-49&keywords=brushless+motor+controller or www.ebay.com/itm/DC-6-50V-3-Phases-Brushless-Motor-Controller-No-Hall-BLDC-PWM-PLC-Driver-Board/253794933276?hash=item3b175b5a1c:g:UoQAAOSwEfBbXIwc:rk:1:pf:0 The ones that already have the heat sink attached are better. They insulate the mosfets from the heat sink to help prevent shorting power.

andrea gambacorta 1:47

Some potentiometers decrease the resistance on a logarithmic scale. That is called an "audio taper pot". Try a linear taper potentiometer. Here's a link to the videos of an audio taper pot, and the maximum acceleration with the throttle fully on. photos.app.goo.gl/LdQtrcTXWRf7KWf68 photos.app.goo.gl/55BZM6nS8xUNJjT98 photos.app.goo.gl/jkoN1z8T8y62SG93A

Search these words "brushless motor controller" this was one that uses the hall sensors: www.amazon.in/Generic-Controller-12V-36V-Brushless-Balanced/dp/B01MZF2PE7/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1520121142&sr=8-19&keywords=brushless+motor+controller this one doesn't use the hall sensros: www.amazon.in/HITSAN-Brushless-Motor-Driver-Controller/dp/B0773JYZPH/ref=sr_1_71?ie=UTF8&qid=1520121238&sr=8-71&keywords=brushless+motor+controller

Thanks for your reply mate. I've some more questions, can we speak on skype or email. my email is deepak@vocso.cokm

Hey buddy, can you help me, im struggling to connect these motor controllers with raspberry pi. I basically need to understand about the SET. POWER and HALL seems to make sense.

Hey, I traced out most of the pins on the controller, here's a link to the circuit with some overlays. lowtechllcblog.blogspot.com/2017/12/rewiring-hoverboard-wheel.html and drive.google.com/file/d/0BzsC64x-wm5mSU43WkFxSzdMdFk/view The P+ and P- are the power in on the motor side, the other three terminals next to P+ P- are for the motor windings. The board has a 14V and a 5V regulator. The 5V terminals on HALL and Set are 5 volts out, but limited to ~250 ma. The Hall A B C are wired to the hall effect sensors on the motor. The hall sensor wires should be the same color as the motor winding wires, but some people say they are not. You will have to match the hall signal with the winding. I can't help you there, it's just a matterr of trial and error, there are ~6 combinations? abc bac bca cba cab acb? go easy when testing this so you don't overheat the circuit. If your motor has no hall effect sensors, or if they are bad you should get a different motor controller, one that uses a chip to replace the hall signals. Then you don't need to wire the hall terminals at all. www.amazon.in/Walfront-Sensorless-Controller-Brushless-Heatsink/dp/B076ZWFBQT/ref=sr_1_6?s=home-improvement&ie=UTF8&qid=1523018683&sr=1-6&keywords=brushless+motor+controller The SET terminals: 5V is a 5 volt output EL is the Enable input. It is pulled up to 5V by a 4.7K resistor. Connect to GND will disable. Signal is a Tachometer output. I don't use it, it is probably a 5V pulse. Z/F is a Direction input. It is pulled up to 3V by a 330 ohm resistor. Connect to GND to revers direction. Vref is the speed control. It has a 100K pull down resistor, and a 10K current limit resistor to the input of the chip. If you are going to a raspberryPi, you will need to send a PWM signal to this input. The input has a small capacitor, I don't know what size, that will hold the average voltage of the PWM signal. When I use a 5V arduino the PWM needs to be about 60% duty cycle or greater to get the motor to turn. The pulses charge the capacitor, and the 100K resistor discharges it. The chips Vref input samples the voltage to set the speed. If there are too few pulses per second the cap will remain discharged, too many and it will stay at 5V. You will need to experiment to find the Pulse Width Modulation duty cycle you need. Good luck.

Lowtech hey, thanks a lot got such a detailed reply. I came out for a while. Lemme get back in and read it through. Thanks once again.

For manual control, try using a 100K ohm potentiometer. The sensorless controller comes with a 100K pot. It works pretty good. The VR input is looking for a reference voltage, the potentiometer is acting as a voltage divider. If I remember correctly, the controller board has a 100K pull down resistor at the VR input and a 10K current limit to the VR pin on the IC. Just for fun I tried to emulate arduino PWM control in TinkerCAD. www.tinkercad.com/things/2V63PtRRvN9 It indicates that a 1uF cap and a 10K resistor would stabilize the PWM signal. For the sensorless controller board search google for the following text: 350W 5-36V DC Brushless motor Controller BLDC Three-phase Driver board 12V 24V The controller is sold on ebay and on amazon, here are a couple of links: ebay.to/2xi2W0w amzn.to/2gCKiNy

@@LowtechLLC Initially I had used 10k pot(potentiometer). After one test to run the motor which failed, I noticed that the pot value had decreased from ~10k to ~3.5k. But once I disconnected the pot from driver, it read its original value of 10k. Any idea why this happened? Now I'm using 22k pot, and after one test, its value decreased as well (Decreased from ~22k to ~7k). I'm yet to check its value after disconnecting it from the driver.

In the no load example, it will drop to the slower speed setting as soon as you change the setting. The controller is still switching the mosfets to power the motor coils, but at a slower speed. Here's the thing though, if you drop the speed control all the way, there isn't any braking force.

The heat sink needs to be electricity insulated from the heat sink. The body of three of the transistors are connected to ground and the other three are connected to positive 36 volt. If the bodies of the transistors touch the same conducting metal the power supply will short. There are products like electricly insulating heat sink tape or other products that insulate electrically, but conduct heat. But amazon sells a version of the motor controller that has an insulated heat sink on it already, you should get one of those.

There are a pair of transistors for each coil. One transistor will supply positive voltage when on, the other will connect to ground when on. The transistors toward the inside of the board complete the connection to ground, the transistors on the outside connect to positive voltage. I traced the circuit from a photos: lowtechllcblog.blogspot.com/2017/12/rewiring-hoverboard-wheel.html Just be aware that the body of the transistors are opposite polarity. If they touch the same conductor they will short the power source. That is why there is no heat sink. The banks of transistors must be insulated electrically from each other.

No

Yes, but you need to reprogram the board.

Yes and i would recommend it as it is much cheaper and easier

I did, but never documented the connections. Here are two clips that show the arduino linked to the motor controller. I send a serial command to start the motor. photos.app.goo.gl/yCpV9RrEB9S5ZuRN8 and photos.app.goo.gl/jWANZ5w1Dy3t4FQg9

I guess there is no real "breaking". Breaking means to hold the motor-winding with at least 2 legs of the motor at low-level for the hole time of 60 degrees of rotation an only led one of these 2 legs comming at battery-High for the little time of acceleration. I dont beleave that these controller will do so. I thing the controller will put a frequency to BOTH of the MOSFETs for the time of 60 degrees. That means no hard breaking is possible, because the energy of the motor will not correct shorten to the ground (through 2 MOSFETs). I guess there is a effect of a "small breaking", because the most motor-energy will draw into the battery through the diode of the (closed) High-MOSFET. In this case the inner resistor of the battery and the hole wiring take controll over the breaking. Maybe someone shoud take an Oscilloscope and do some measurements at the gates of the MOSFETs during acceleration and breaking...

Now I have testet this BLDC-controller in my laboratory and I add an DIY MOSFET-brake to the controller. Watch the result and the performance: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sUEJWnqO27k.html

After testing this BLDC-controller: there is no braking, the wheel is after disabling the controller (VR= 0V, or/and EL= 0V) in the so called free-wheeling-mode. No "small braking" as I asume before. This controller is fine for an eBike-project or something similar, but NOT for use in a robot project with high dynamic in cornering and direction-change...

Alex, the easy way to use one potentiometer to control 2 controllers is to get a potentiometer that has 2 outputs. There is one shaft that turns two wipers. You get three terminals from each output, and each output is electrically separate. These are typically used in stereo equipment and have an audio taper, look for one that says linear, or linear taper. (Audio taper means the resistance changes on a logarithmic curve.) I did a google search on Dual potentiometer 20k , and there are lots of inexpensive options: www.google.com/search?num=20&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS787US787&tbm=shop&ei=tLdQW6eCPKWz0PEPjJCCuAU&q=dual+potentiometer+20k&oq=dual+potentiometer+20k&gs_l=psy-ab.3...21055.22949.0.23359.4.4.0.0.0.0.228.661.2-3.3.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..1.0.0....0.xj3t4x1Hf7s This is one fromm newark ~$3: www.newark.com/bourns/pdb182-k420k-203b/rotary-potentiometer-20kohm-17mm/dp/10C0287?mckv=suEWkfBdD_dc|pcrid|81515567901|plid||kword||match||slid||product|10C0287|&gross_price=true&CATCI=aud-106011026661:pla-162180786261&CAAGID=20376568341&CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-SHOPPING-10C0287&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw7cDaBRBtEiwAsxprXYP4_Q2Lvu-IzSk9HJWLlqJKAQpNSZhz_XkPC6_Bq8azIYPRFs86uhoC8UwQAvD_BwE&CAWELAID=120185550000970618

No, I have not tried an ebike throttle. If it is just a potentiometer it should work, but I think there may be some electronics in a throttle. Let me know if you get it to work.

@@LowtechLLC well. Im not sure but i think it needs input voltage from bldc driver

The esp32 is a 3.3v microcontroller. You will need level shifters on the outputs. A level shifter keeps the 5v circuit (the motor controller) separate from the 3.3v circuit (the esp32). Try searching Adafruit Level shifter. This one works, but is only 4 i/o points, and i think you need 12 i/o points. So you'd need 3 of these www.adafruit.com/product/1875

I don't know about the RC servo. The PWM method that worked for me was the arduino AnalogWrite. Using the a 5volt arduino, the line "AnalogWrite(10,88);" will send a 1.7 volt (5v * 88/255) signal on pin 10. That is the minimum needed to turn on the motor.

Hola, saludos de Argentina!! Tendrias un diagrama, para poder controlar la señal PWM y la dirección del motor, ambos con Arduino. gracias

The module in the video has been updated, and the update does allow a PWM input. Here's a link to the new version on amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087M3GVYX/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A298K45OP416LP There is a version with and without the hall effect sensors. And the new version has the heat sink already attached. That's the best improvement because the mosfets on the old module would short out when touching a heat sink.

@@LowtechLLC How would I connect a reveiver to that? I watched a video but I did not understand

@@actuallyfragfo0d I have not used a wireless receiver connected to the motor controller input, but I did use an arduino's PWM outputs. If the wireless receiver is outputting a 5V PWM signal that is completely off at 0%, and fully on at 5V at 100%, then you should be able to use it. (remember that older receivers and servos use PPM signals not PWM, we are talking about PWM, PPM won't work because the pulse is never off.) The 20K pot terminals have 5V, signal, and ground, just like a wireless receiver does. If the wireless receiver uses less than 100ma you can power it from the 5V and ground terminals. Then the receiver's signal output would connect to the 20K pot 'wiper' or middle terminal of the controller. It might take some trial and error. Here's a post about converting PWM to Analog voltage using a capacitor and resistors: www.instructables.com/Arduino-RC-Circuit-PWM-to-analog-DC/

This module has been improved. It is a brushless dc motor controller. I would now use the RioRand 350W 6-60V PWM DC Brushless Electric Motor Speed Controller, the amazon link is www.amazon.com/RioRand-6-60V-Brushless-Electric-Controller/dp/B087M2378D/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2ZQ6M9LPWB96R&keywords=brushless+motor+controller&qid=1684650194&sprefix=brushless+motor+controller%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-3

No, the wires are going to coils that have to be energized in the right sequence. The speed that the circuit switches power to those coils is up to 1000's of times per second. ... well, now that I'm thinking of it, a rotary switching sequence could imitate the pattern that the circuit does. You would need to switch three double pull double throw (DPDT) relays in the right sequence. But practically, those relays wouldn't last very long.

@@LowtechLLC i have broken hoverboard with the wheel working, but dont know how and where to get the parts i need, so all i cam do npw is tp try and repair it

I know I'm late to the party and I know very little. Is there a way to wire this to be simply off or on with a switch. What I would like to achieve is simply flipping on a switch and having the wheel go full speed and switching it off to stop. Very simple. I just don't know which wires do what

@@PkmnBillGaming you're in luck, this controller on amazon has a stop switch input. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B087M3GVYX/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A298K45OP416LP&psc=1

buy controller which doesnt have hall sensor pins. check chienvt comment

Since posting the video I have tried a few controller boards. Some do not need to have VR drop to 0V. It is worth trying the controllers that don't need the hall effect sensors connected. search google for the following text: 350W 5-36V DC Brushless motor Controller BLDC Three-phase Driver board 12V 24V The controller is sold on ebay and on amazon, here are a couple of links: ebay.to/2xi2W0w amzn.to/2gCKiNy

so how about the board which you used on this video? it still need to have VR drop to 0V or not?

I tried two of the blue controller boards. The first one, in the video, holds the speed unless you drop VR to 0v. The other one I tried did not have that problem. I bought them from different ebay stores, the build quality was different. Maybe the 1st one has a larger capacitor decoupling VR, I don't know. If you get one that holds the speed, dropping PWM to 0v for a few milliseconds should discharge a cap. On the arduino you would add the analogwrite(pin,0); delay(5); before setting the PWM you want.

is delay(5) enough for set pwm to 0 before we set the next pwm value?

get a different controller if you are not using the hall sensor. There will be a 14 pin IC on the board to simulate the hall inputs. I think it is equivalent to an LM339 quad comparator. If the board has that chip you don't have to wire the hall effect sensors. Try this link, or the ones in the comments below. www.amazon.com/Yeeco-Controller-Brushless-Regulator-Reversible/dp/B072JTB4R8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522931623&sr=8-1&keywords=brushless+motor+controller www.amazon.com/Yosoo-Brushless-Controller-Balanced-Driver/dp/B01KJC6JGC/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1522931639&sr=8-29&keywords=brushless+motor+controller www.amazon.com/Kangnice-Brushless-Controller-Voltage-Three-phase/dp/B071LDMZ99/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1522931639&sr=8-32&keywords=brushless+motor+controller www.tomtop.com/p-e1876.html www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-36V-500W-Brushless-Motor-PWM-Control-Controller-Balanced-Car-Driver-Board/171859267116?epid=729221074&hash=item28039c4e2c www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-36V-500W-Brushless-Motor-Controller-Hall-Motor-Balanced-Auto-Driver-Board/112467193473?hash=item1a2f912e81

I have not run more than one from the same controller. I think it would draw too much current, possibly burning out one of the mosfets. What you can do is use a dual potentiometer to set the speed of two controllers. A dual pot has one shaft that moves the wiper on two potentiometers. That way each pot goes to its own controller, but you are turning only one knob. You might need to add a small resistor to the output of one potentiometer to make its output equal the other pots output. You want a "Linear Taper" pot, not an "audio taper" or "logarithmic taper" style. 20K dual pot from Mouser: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PDB182-K420K-203B?qs=Ivs1Be2ZGq71kZmejONMhg%3D%3D&mgh=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwvuGJBhB1EiwACU1Aiex8sDAH9CU4MEFgt2ktdRSzCJi5Wl2XEFeYElAJh3VofM4wMLDchRoC2tMQAvD_BwE 10K dual pot from Newark: www.newark.com/tt-electronics-bi-technologies/p162g100qrc30b103/pot-10k-0-2w-linear/dp/77AH3740?gclid=CjwKCAjwvuGJBhB1EiwACU1AiYwcrvTXJZ8XgnC7hnpoWFNnsJCwTAprkztGBnggf38E6yNir5LtDhoC3z4QAvD_BwE&mckv=slj3SIGm4_dc|pcrid|434136793395|plid||kword||match||slid||product|77AH3740|pgrid|100464450426|ptaid|pla-901397246856|&CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-Shopping-NewStructure-Passive-Components

I don't think you could do it with this style of motor. The rotors need to be mechanically linked together so they stay perfectly in sync or else the electromagnet field will be pulling one of them in the wrong direction sometimes. But since there's no output shaft it would be a pain to come up with a way to link them.

No. The capacitors are not rated high enough for 48V.

Lowtech thanks you for answers. Please, do you know a controller that could do this?

Yes, both can be controlled. I'm tracing out the circuit, so far it looks like the direction (labeled "Z/F") input is pulled high with a 330 ohm resistor. So a switch connected to ground would allow the direction to change. The speed is controlled by a voltage reference (labeled "VR"). Simplest, but least accurate, speed control is a 100K potentiometer, wired to 5V on the left, VR on the center (wiper), and GND on the right. The voltage at the VR input needs to be above 1.7 volts for any movement. The VR terminal on the board goes through a 10K resistor before going to the Vref pin on the control IC. There is a 100K resistor pulling this pin to ground, and a capacitor to ground. A more accurate speed control would be to use an arduino to create a PWM signal. If a 5V Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) is applied to the VR terminal you can control the speed. If using an arduino to create the PWM signal the calling analogWrite(pin,value), "value" needs to be above 87 to get any movement. This is because 1.7V / 5V = 87 / 255. One thing I noticed, the VR signal must go to 0V before the control IC will reset the speed to a slower speed. In other words, if you are running the motor at 80%, then want to slow it down to 10%, you have to go to 0V before going to 10%. That is, every time you want speed to change, analogWrite(pin,0) should be called before setting the new speed. BTW, put silicone insulation on the MOSFETs before adding a heat sink. If the high and low side switching MOSFETs tough the same piece of metal the power supply will short. insulation like this from ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/Quality-Cooling-Insulation-Paste-Gel-Silicone-Heatsink-Conductive-Thermal-Pad/112263980316?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 or this tape: www.ebay.com/itm/Double-Sided-Insulation-Thermal-Acrylic-Adhesive-Tape-for-LED-CPU-GPU-Heatsink/182546946220?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=485124954642&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Hi, is any of your drivers take a looong time to switch directions??

They weigh the same regardless of being in motion or stationary.

Sin duda ,son motores muy buenos ,pero hay que saber cómo alimentarios ,no todas las controladoras sirven ,estos motores podrían alcanzar los 80/k/h perfectamente

Thank you!!! The subscriber count has been getting close to 1k, then falling back a few, for weeks. Thanks Josaf!!

I can't give you a specific motor controller, but what you want is a 750 watt brushless motor controller rated at 36V or 48V. They are common for e-bikes and scooters. Look on amazon for one with a 3 wire connection to the motor. Most will require an LCD display and a throttle. The circuit boards are inside of an aluminum housing, which is nice.

I don't know. Since you tried two boards, the problem isn't in the board. maybe the hall effect sensors are in the wrong order, that is not in sync with the motor windings. Or maybe a hall sensor isn't working. There are sensor-less brushless motor controllers that are in the same format as this board. You don't need to plug in the hall sensors to use the motor. amzn.to/2xITMKy ebay.to/2h1c0nk There are motor testers, but they are kind of expensive, and are still hard to tell if the hall sensors are in sync with the motor coils. But here's a link if you want to look at one: amzn.to/2iQrIlU

I do need sensored mode, since I need smoothest possible performance on super low speeds. The motor ran fine in hoverboard and it also runs smooth in one direction, so mechanically it's fine. I went through all 36 possible combinations of phase/hall wires. In each group of 6 (every phase comb) I get one comb of described behaviour, one that does the same, just in reverse and one when direction change indeed works, just it shakes in both directions. Remaining 3 don't work at all. I think it's something with BLDC, it somehow does it wrong. Anyway, since I can get both forward and backward just by switching hall wires, I think I'm gonna build a MCU controlled switch to mix them up when I need reverse.

did you manage to move it back?

I thing you can NOT try 36 possible combinations of phase/hall wires, because the outer wires are VCC & GND! Changing these can damage the Hall-Sensor in the motor! In fact the are 3 Hall-Wires (the inner 3 Pins) have only 6 posibilities of wiring. And only 6 of the 8 possible Voltage-Level makes sense to the controller: each Hall can be 0V or 5V, but NEVER all Hall-Sensors can have 5V or 0V. These to logic-states (3x 0V or 3x 5V) will maybe cause an unexpectet effect on the controller, because we have no technical specs with an definition of these states...

Found )) thank you

Hello , i have the same question , so hwo can you do that please ?

Speed-control is possible over the VR-Input with 0...5V. You can use an PWM-Output from your µcontroller, the BLDC-controller has its own integration on the VR-Input. But you can NOT stop the wheel, it is (after setting VR to 0V or disabling) freewheeling until it stops by itself. For more dynamic (e.g. fast cornering with blocked wheels) you have to brake the wheel with external MOSFET's like I do: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sUEJWnqO27k.html

i have sensorless version of this controller and i bought a heat sink, please help me, i dont want to burn the controller and i cant get another in a short time lapse

First, If you are adding a heat sink to the circuit make sure you do not allow the metal heat sink to contact the transistors. There needs to be an electrical insulator between the body of the transistor and the metal. Three of the transistors body's are connected to ground, and the other three are connected to the positive voltage. If the metal is in contact with both sets, the battery will short. Look for Heat Sink Silicone Sheet or Thermally conductive electrically isolating heat sink tape to put between the metal heat sink and the transistors. The boards that already have the heat sink attached should already have the insulation. The three capacitors near the battery connection should have 50V printed on them indicating they are rated at 50 volts. If the capacitors on your board are rated at 50V you should be ok to use 42V.

Lowtech oh dear friend thank you so much for the answer... I had take in consideration the way to put the heat sink and like you mentioned i did it. Yes, i have three capacitors of 50v of tolerating voltage near to the battery but are you sure when my battery has full charge it wont burned the controller ? In adition, the six mosfets lm317 i put heat sink before. only work with a maximun voltage of 36v i need you to confirm to me the controller will stay safe, please help me

Sorry for asking you the same. I need to do this project urgently and i dont have how buy a second controller... I need to wait at least for a month and thats to much ... If i would have other controller i would tested connecting the battery to the controller without asking you the same is just that i saw a video that said that he tried to connect a battery of litio and he burned his controller :( . i would appreciate you could confirm to me that the controller will stay safe

@@ekosyalek put a fuse between the battery + and the controller board. A 5 amp fuse is a good test value, 5 amps * 36V = 180 watts. That should be enough to see if the motor spins while still protecting the batter from shorting. Automotive fuses are common and should work for your project. Since I don't know how much power you need for your project I'm just guessing on the 5 amp fuse value. A 10 amp fuse is probably the largest value you would use. 10 amps * 36V = 360 watts.

Sorry, I don't know the rpms.

These motors typically have fairly thick stator laminations and high pole count, so eddy current heating may be a problem. And they probably aren't balanced well enough to run at that speed, so you would have to build an accelerometer jig to figure out where mass needs to be added. I would also recommend converting the stator termination from wye to delta. It's easy to do, and will reduce the necessary voltage from around 360V to 210V.

Try searching amazon for - 36 volt brushless dc motor driver - There are many versions of the controller, get one that already has a heat sink on it. Some of the boards don't need the hall effect sensor connections, you could use that style if the motor you have doesn't have hall effect sensors or if one of the sensors is bad. Here are some of the search results: www.amazon.com/HUDITOOLS-Quality-Brushless-Controller-Voltage/dp/B07NDZMTS2/ref=sr_1_51?keywords=36+volt+brushless+dc+motor+driver&qid=1565552375&s=gateway&sr=8-51 www.amazon.com/Brushless-Controller-Sensitive-Control-Direction/dp/B07VJ74W8M/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=36+volt+brushless+dc+motor+driver&qid=1565552375&s=gateway&sr=8-25 www.amazon.com/Motor-Controller-Brushless-Throttle-Potentiometer/dp/B07PFC7CKL/

You need 2 controllers and a dual potentiometer. A dual potentiometer has one knob, but 2 outputs that are electrically isolated. Each controller gets one of the dual potentiometer outputs.

search google for the following text: 350W 5-36V DC Brushless motor Controller BLDC Three-phase Driver board 12V 24V The controller is sold on ebay and on amazon, here are a couple of links: ebay.to/2xi2W0w amzn.to/2gCKiNy

QS-909 Motor controller

The 1K pot would not blow up the MOSFET. It is more likely there is a short (0.0 ohms) on one of the motor coils. Ohm out the three motor wires to measure the resistance between each pair. I think the nominal resistance is about 0.6 ohms. If one of them is 0.0 ohms the motor is bad. There is another possibility, the bodies of the MOSFETs are connected to either GND or the motor +V. If the bodies are touching the same conductor they will short out. There is a newer version of the motor controller that places an insulator between the MOSFETs and a heat sink to prevent shorting. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087M3GVYX/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A298K45OP416LP&th=1

@@LowtechLLC Funny that you link me to that controller; I just ordered one. Looks like I made the right choice (hopefully the hall-less one works). The drains certainly weren't touching since I didn't have a heat sink attached yet. The motor tested good. So that's why I assumed the potentiometer was the culprit. It makes no sense but it's the only thing I could point to. I did use the original 36v battery. I am aware the actual voltage is over 40 volts, but would it really kill it that fast?

@@LowtechLLC It is worth mentioning that the MOSFETs that blew were the one whose drain is connected to MC and the one whose source is connected to MB

The most common problem for a good motor is matching the hall effect sensors with the motor coils. The quality control from motor to motor is not consistent, sometimes the wire colors are wrong. if the hall sensors are not in phase with the motor coils the motor will lock in place when you try to use it (and hum). Try re-arranging the motor wires. The hall effect sensors should go from 5V to 0V when they turn on. You can check them by unplugging the 3 motor wires and turning the motor by hand (power and hall are still connected). Put a volt meter common (blk) lead on the hall GND terminal, the Voltage (red) lead on one of the hall terminals. When you rotate the wheel the voltage should drop from 5V to 0V on the hall terminal. If it does the hall sensor is working. Check all 3 hall sensors. If one doesn't switch to 0V then you wont be able to use this circuit. But don't get too upset, there is a version that doesn't need the hall effect sensors. take a look at this one [zs-x11a]: www.amazon.com/Kangnice-Brushless-Controller-Voltage-Three-phase/dp/B071LDMZ99/ref=sr_1_35?ie=UTF8&qid=1532794222&sr=8-35&keywords=brushless+motor+controller+36v The other problem could be a bad motor coil. If you measure the resistance between the motor coil wires you should have 1 ohm to 0.7 ohms. If you have and open coil (9999 ohms) the motor is bad. Remember to be careful not to short anything, the transistors on the board will short if they touch a conductor. If you add a heat sink you must put an insulator heat transfer pad between the transistors and the heat sink. Let me know if this helps.

I did hook up my Quadcopter ESC that only 175w with my arduino for testing. That did work no hall effect sensor on the ESC But it's only 175w. The wiring colors from your Image on your video is the same wiring layout as my sensor. Everything is the same as yours. I'm wondering something on the Pot side there is one pin near the 5V called Signal In your image that is not connect. Should that be connected to something?

The third terminal "Signal" is a tachometer output. I don't use it. I don't know if it is a sinking or sourcing output. The 2nd terminal is the Enable input. The Enable input needs 5V. The 4th terminal, "Direction", is pulled up to 5V by a 330 ohm resistor on the circuit board. Grounding that terminal will change directions. I've got a high resolution annotated photo of the board here: lowtechllcblog.blogspot.com/2017/12/rewiring-hoverboard-wheel.html

I got a good wheel that works with no problem I can use it on a lower power esc but not with this esc controller Strange. I wired it up correctly check, double checked and triple checked the wired and all correct. Not sure why it is not moving.

You will need to het a version of the board that doesn't require the hall sensor connections. Usually the hall sensor terminal will be left off the board, and there is an extra 14 pin IC that acts like the hall signal. This is an example on amazon www.amazon.com/Brushless-Controller-5V-36V-Driver-Control/dp/B07RBNBPR1/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=36v+brushless+motor+controller+hall+sensor&qid=1623774476&sr=8-19

@@LowtechLLC thanks. the reason i asked the question was i could not figure out the order of the hall cable connections. i'm afraid i will damage the board if i mess up the match up.

Yes, but... 1) you won't get as much power to the motor. power = voltage * current (and 12v is half 24v and 1/3 of 36v.) 2) car batteries will decay quickly if deep cycled, internally "sulficating" the plates. just get a couple of 7AH sealed lead acid batteries. they're only about $20 each. make sure to put a fuse between the batteries and the controller in case it shorts out.

Sparks at the battery terminal? If you are using lead acid batteries you should add a fuse or circuit breaker to protect yourself if you have anything wired wrong or shorted. I have a scar on my wrist from the first time I incorrectly wired a 12V 20AH sealed lead acid battery. Twenty five years ago I was thinking about my girl friend not what I was doing, I connected loose wires to the terminals of the battery. They shorted together across my watch. It happened so fast - there was a flash - a pop - I jumped back. While my brain was trying the understand what was happening, my nervous system was sending "HOT", "Hey somethings hot over here on the left", "Hey look there's something hot damn it!" The back of my left hand was hot, the stem of the watch was burning it. What I didn't feel, the metal watch band, it had taken at least 5C or 100amps, arc welding two links, and melting into by wrist. So put a fuse on your lead acid battery lead, 10A probably ok. I use a 6A circuit breaker. But to answer the question, is a spark normal... sometimes. The capacitors are not charged, making a connection to the battery is going to dump a bunch of current into them. You may see a small spark. Big and loud spark you may have something shorted. Make sure the mosfets on the back of the board aren't touching a conductor, they will short.

thank you, i use a battery of lithium-ion of name 10S2P of color blue, i think that the spark is little, i have a question, i can use one controller for two wheel? because i have controller defective

Do not wire two wheels to one controller.

Thank you, for control the wheel with arduino change the potentiometer by the pwm signal?

Here is a simulation of what using either the potentiometer or the arduino PWM signal would do. www.tinkercad.com/things/2V63PtRRvN9 The resistor network is the same as the VR input. Since Tinkercad doesn't have a brushless motor controller circuit, I used the arduino analog input 0 A0, as the control circuit VR input. You can copy the circuit in tinkercad and rewire it and reprogram the arduino. have fun

The capacitors on the motor side need to be rated at 50V. Some boards are made with lower voltage capacitors. I have used a fully charged 42V battery, but other people had problems. There is a hi-resolution photo of the board at this link lowtechllcblog.blogspot.com/2017/12/rewiring-hoverboard-wheel.html The capacitors on the left of the 1st image are the ones that need to be rated at 50 volts.

@@LowtechLLC I have the option to choose between 62v and 50v capacitor which one will be better and they don't have hall sensors will it still work im planing to build a e scooter?

@@koyarbakir775 Get the 62V. The voltage rating indicates how thick the dielectric is. Higher voltage will handle motor spikes better.

@@koyarbakir775 By the way, Get a board that already has the heat sink on the transistors. The 6 transistors can short the battery if they touch the same metal. The boards that have the heat sink mounted already also have a heat conductive, electrically isolating pad between the transistors and the heat sink.

@@koyarbakir775 For reference, here are some link to the controllers that already have the heat sink mounted. I'm not affiliated with any of these people, I'm just showing you what the boards look like: www.amazon.com/LYWS-Brushless-Controller-Normal-Reverse-Control/dp/B06Y5H681T/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=brushless+dc+motor+controller+hall&qid=1624813077&s=hi&sr=1-17 www.ebay.com/itm/402899624315?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAAkBF8j79rxrlKOnV5WIkhEyTz0aacg0McLO8UKKKOOGdaaFMmkTrB7QG5DHzvdgAbBFtBFckYZ2g36Q4LjH7BIS02dcDHhASLo1EOz%2F8f8GiLnugB3BIxCJG8l2LlN9Ji5z9aL24JWIhTabP3RFvMZkUx5Qyqrct%2FbxLrIOMRTn5u%2BqSNEOTWviHuZ%2F7nG9A28w%3D%3D&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=402899624315&targetid=1262375642056&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9014396&poi=&campaignid=12875707346&mkgroupid=127864788648&rlsatarget=pla-1262375642056&abcId=9300535&merchantid=138357216&gclid=CjwKCAjww-CGBhALEiwAQzWxOpDTVmZkiKyy8o4GlLlwy3m2UGq96NraF5Ktikd9zHVwnWRG_YCV1RoCWSEQAvD_BwE www.aliexpress.com/item/4000454307207.html?albpd=en4000454307207&acnt=708-803-3821&aff_platform=aaf&albpg=896505316494&netw=u&albcp=9824643245&sk=UneMJZVf&trgt=896505316494&terminal_id=01c22d228da448128bd1fa3684572860&tmLog=new_Detail&needSmbHouyi=false&albbt=Google_7_shopping&src=google&crea=en4000454307207&aff_fcid=208a6ef2734847c68ffed293e90ec3b3-1624812961640-09968-UneMJZVf&gclid=CjwKCAjww-CGBhALEiwAQzWxOjrk3tirqNtstv7cuGsNViPR1KEACQNzoc5z8-ZpidvwCEH0UTAozxoCf2MQAvD_BwE&albag=103112554314&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&albch=shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&aff_trace_key=208a6ef2734847c68ffed293e90ec3b3-1624812961640-09968-UneMJZVf&device=c&gclsrc=aw.ds www.wish.com/product/5c862b1e656c4676634ad5d5?from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=US&_force_currency_code=USD&pid=googleadwords_int&c=%7BcampaignId%7D&ad_cid=5c862b1e656c4676634ad5d5&ad_cc=US&ad_lang=EN&ad_curr=USD&ad_price=17.70&campaign_id=7203534630&gclid=CjwKCAjww-CGBhALEiwAQzWxOs0CZJq9KiLpTT65i2EzZ_yv_uTkJMH0nVfthr6ZeQCuZdciGV32ehoCIj8QAvD_BwE&hide_login_modal=true&share=web www.ebay.com/itm/264903325037?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAAkIJDuE4qQT2FJl8ajguge2oXMLO9Cs4SHGeVUF9of3DmVBEJulbGnx5%2B0ExIqcIX0u%2BN1xH%2FXSGZan1eOVs5TCN7%2FPsek%2B24cSKdFm1iAoE%2BV09yh9CHgHT58lTaaPWTv6KoxmXVcsa8WGZjC0J9llTCLbS%2Bxmm4P%2BjWbSrdVv8qMfzUMZUx9q2Zx8yKNkOqZg%3D%3D&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264903325037&targetid=1262906534562&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9014396&poi=&campaignid=12874653489&mkgroupid=121942647533&rlsatarget=pla-1262906534562&abcId=9300535&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAjww-CGBhALEiwAQzWxOskwG1Ic-XjlSmSpqZA0tpdG6A118pqiWnJ2QN7E64PYS1UW4pUcRBoC6WoQAvD_BwE

I took some photos and ohmed out the traces. Hope this link helps: lowtechllcblog.blogspot.com/2017/12/rewiring-hoverboard-wheel.html You may need to save the images to see them at full resolution.

If the scooter is using a brushless dc motor it will work. I have used the controller to test e-bike wheels. The controller in this video uses hall effect sensors to detect the position of the motor. There is a version that doesn't need the hall effect sensors. Try that. I'll see if i can find a amazon link... this one is "Hall-less" www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B087M3GVYX/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A298K45OP416LP&psc=1

@@LowtechLLC Thanks so much for replying. So in a nutshell will this board work if I install it on an e-scooter without catching fire? And is it meant to be on an e-scooter? Thanks!

@@matthewjensen6380 the fire would happen if the lithium battery shorts out. You should put a fuse between the battery and the controller. For a 36v battery, 350 watts, p=v×i, i = p/v , i = 350 / 36 ,i = 9.7Amps, so maybe use a 15Amp fuse. Something they sell at an autoparts store.

Hi thanks for you help and responses as most RU-vidrs don’t respond. On last thing, can you please make a video with 3 lead acid batteries instead of 2? I want to see if there is a speed difference. Thanks!

@@matthewjensen6380 it will be a while before I can test 36v. But I think the speed will be only a little faster. There will be more torque, so acceleration should be higher.

if i have 4 controllers, and 4 wheels, can i use one pot connected to all 4 ? i want to make a skateboard, would this be a good controller to use ? thanks heaps

it will be a good idea to stack four boards with 1 potentiometer just adjust acordingly and not burn out the circuit boards but remember four boards means you need to 4x the potentiometer

you should put a pot that goes to that pot and adjust each individual pot to tune each motor controller so that not just one motor is driving the whole assembly

in reality you have five pots

but one main pot controlling everything

The most likely issue is the lithium battery protection circuit. Check to see what the battery's maximum current draw is. The maximum current draw I ran the motor at was only 3.5 amps. I used lead acid batteries and a 6 amp circuit breaker for protection. If you are using one of the hoverboard battery packs it should work because they can supply lots of current, typically 20 amps. But pulling a lot of current out of the battery will drop the voltage of weak cells. If the voltage drops below about 2.6 volts on a cell (or 26 volts for the pack) the protection circuit will cut power. In any case, check how much current is being drawn under load. Amazon has a good selection of battery power analyzer watt meters. www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Battery+Power+Analyzer+Watt+Meter+ You would put this between the battery and the circuits. If the meter turns off when you are under load it means the battery protection activated. If you have a weak / dying cell in the battery you might notice that the battery charges up to 42V really fast (like way less than an hour). But under a load the voltage drops to 32 volts or less. It would indicate that a cell is under capacity, instead of 2200maH it may only be able to provide 900maH. Something like that would activate the protection circuit. Another possible problem could be the controllers overheating. Since they don't have heat sinks this could be happening under load. I found out the hard way that the body of one side of the mosfet was connected to +V and the other one was connected to ground. (It shorted and ruined my first circuit breaker) So definitely insulate the mosfets electrically from the heat sink if you use a heat sink. Silicone pads or heat sink tape work ok. But what might be better is that you can get the controller with a heat sink already installed. search these keywords:" DROK BLDC DC 5-36V Brushless Sensorless Motor Control " Again amazon has them, but there are other sources. I like that they already have the heat sink and that they don't use the hall sensors. You just don't hook up the sensor wires and the motor still works. They aren't great at slow speeds, however, because they don't use the hall effect sensors.

I connected my Motor same like you. But it sounds very loud as something is wrong with the Hall Sensor or Any direction is wrong

mee to it makes some uggly niose

The noise is caused by improper connection of the motor wires keep changing the combination of the wires they don't have to match until it sounds right then carefully throttle up fif you hear any weird noise you most likely have the wire combination wrong.

@@LowtechLLC Hi, thanks for all your good quality content, I would like to ask you an advise for a project I’d like to build, a sort of motorized dolly (60cm x 60cm base) for video shooting, the total payload will be around 10kg (camera with tripod, wheels, motor and battery), I’m looking for a super silent motor capable of smooth linear movements (acceleration/deceleration), and low speed. I’d like to use a radio controller 2.4ghz with receiver device. My 2 questions are: - Do you think is a good option going with hoverboard motor + flipsky vesc + Rc remote ? - Do you think is possible to use a V-Lock Battery (95Wh 14.8V 6600mAh) Rechargeable Li-ion Battery for Broadcast Video? Best, Gabriele

Yes, the 4th pin of the control connector is for direction. If you connect it to ground the motor direction will reverse. It is pulled up to 5v by a 330 ohm resistor. So connecting it to ground only draws a couple milliamps

The hoverboard batteries are typically 36V. Most of the replacements sold on line are 36V. (A 42V battery is a fully charged 36V battery.) If you have any doubts about your power source, make sure to put a fuse in series between the battery and the controller.

Thanks for last answer but my doubt is that I have the hoverboard battery but I'm not confidence to use it in my project because I read in others pages that this battery fries my board. The voltage limit of the board is 12 to 36 volts. I already measured its voltage and I have 36 volts. Did you use a 36V battery lithium yet? Thanks again!

@@lcjunior2941 I have used 36V lead acid. I will check the circuit with one of the lithium hoverboard batteries I have after work today. I looked back at the circuit, as long as the capacitors are rated at 36V or above, and the bodies of the mosfets don't short, 36V should not be a problem... However, I also looked at the spec on the LM317 voltage regulator. It is very close to its maximum voltage when using 36V. The Input voltage minus reference voltage maximim is 40V. (This is at the top of page 2, and is labeled Vi-Vo, which is strange because the description is Vi-Vref). The reference voltage (Vref) is 1.25V (can be between 1.2V and 1.3V). So yes, a fully charged 36V battery that is charged to 42V will exceed the maximum input of the LM317 voltage regulator (42V - 1.25V = 40.75V > 40V). link to the LM317 spec sheet: www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/lm217.pdf link to the image of the top of the board. 3.bp.blogspot.com/-fhZIjOKCua0/WjiL9KAWwmI/AAAAAAAAHcU/f0czL2j49XQJmEJmiUxWpiQP7JLgDI3OQCLcBGAs/s1600/MotorControllerBFront%2Btraces%2Band%2BICs%2BandResistors.png link to the other images of the board: lowtechllcblog.blogspot.com/2017/12/rewiring-hoverboard-wheel.html

@@lcjunior2941 I just connected an old 36V hoverboard lithium battery that was charged at 39.9 volts. It worked, and the motor used 0.65A with no load at full speed.

@@LowtechLLC Thanks for your tips. My battery is at 37 volts and I believe it works without burning. The Lm-317 data sheet is confusing, because the table shows Vi-Vo

Most likely bad hall effect sensor or the order of the motor coils is wrong. Lets see if we can troubleshoot the problem. The goal is to troubleshoot by eliminating large chunks of the circuit. Possible problems: Power, Bad board, Bad motor. * Power: Is the power supply able to produce enough power to turn the motor? power(W) = voltage(V) * current(A). You need at least 25 watts to run the motor with no load. Disconnect the motor and the hall effect sensor connections if you can. That will leave only the power source and the controller in the circuit. Use a voltmeter to measure these terminal: -Between VCC and GND you should have the voltage of the battery or power supply. If it is gone then the six transistors on the board are shorted out. -On the terminal "5V,EL,M,ZF,VR,GND", check the voltage between 5V and GND, there should be 5 volts; check the voltage between EL and GND, also should be 5 volts. If EL is 0V the motor is disabled. check the voltage between VR and GND, It should change as you move the potentiometer. It should measure from 0V to 5V. -On the terminal "5V,HA,HB,HC,GND" check the voltage between 5V and GND, there should be 5 volts. If any of these voltages are missing there is bad wiring or a bad control board. * Motor Hall effect sensors: The controller gets motor position feedback from the hall effect sensors. As the motor turns the sensors turn on and off. -Disconnect power, then reconnect the hall effect cables (terminals "5V,HA,HB,HC,GND"), then reconnect power. - Measure the voltage between HA and GND. It should be either 5V or 0V. It should change when you manually rotate the wheel a few degrees. - Measure the voltage between HB and GND. Rotate the wheel to make sure it changes from 5V to 0V. - Measure the voltage between HC and GND. Rotate the wheel to make sure it changes from 5V to 0V. If the HA, HB, and HC terminals did not toggle between 5V and ground the hall effect sensor is bad. This controller needs all three hall effect sensors to work. If you have a bad hall effect sensor you will need to buy a controller that doesn't use the hall effect sensors. Do a google search for "brushless motor controller no hall sensor". If the sensors are good, they might be wired in the wrong order. That is, the sensor HA might really be HB or HC, or HB might be HC. You can try swapping the wires and see if that fixes the problem. OR leave them like they are and later in the process we will swap the motor coil connections. * Motor coils: Check the resistance of the motor coils with the coils not connected to the controller board. Between any two motor coil wires you should be able to measure the resistance of the motor coil. My motor is 0.6 ohms. You will have ~0.6ohms between the yellow and green wires, between the yellow and blue wires, and between the green and blue wires. If you have an open circuit on a coil, that is the resistance is big, infinity, or -1000 or 9999, then you have a bad motor. If it is a bad motor your done. * Motor output from the controller: I left this for last because it is not an easy thing to check. When everything is working the voltage on any two outputs will switch between positive and negative. The width of the signal is not constant. If you switch your meter over to AC you'll see a signal when things are working. Maybe put the meter in AC current mode and see if you get anything between the output and one of the motor coil wires. But I think it is more helpful to just try moving the motor by hand and noting how difficult it is to turn. Turn power off, reconnect the motor coils to terminals MA,MB,MC. Turn power back on. Move the potentiometer to about half of its travel. This should get the motor to turn at a medium speed. If it is not turning try to turn it by hand (be careful use a light touch). If it spins freely like there is no power or not connected to anything then the controller outputs are not working. If the motor jerks or locks or grinds then at least two of the outputs are working. That's good, the problem might be that the coils are in the wrong order. Turn off power, swap the motor coil wires, power up and try to run the motor. Here are all the possible combinations: MA:yellow MB: blue MC: green MA:blue MB: yellow MC: green MA:blue MB: green MC: yellow MA:green MB: blue MC: yellow MA:green MB: yellow MC: blue MA:yellow MB: green MC: blue If the outputs are working then more than one of these combinations will turn the motor. Make sure to select the one that is the quietest or the smoothest. That will keep the hall effect sensors in the right order with the motor coils. Hope this was helpful.

while checking out these combinations, do i need to keep hall sensors sequence same as motors sequence as well? @@LowtechLLC

@@adeebazadsheriff yes... however, not all motors were made with the wire colors of the hall sensors matching the motor coils. Some of the motors are sold with hall sensors that don't work. So you might have to try different combinations of wiring the hall sensors. There are some motor controllers that don't use the hall sensors. Here's one listed as "Hall-less" that doesn't need the hall sensors www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B087M3GVYX/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_4?smid=A298K45OP416LP&psc=1

Thanks for the reply @@LowtechLLC "If the motor jerks or locks or grinds then at least two of the outputs are working. That's good, the problem might be that the coils are in the wrong order. Turn off power, swap the motor coil wires, power up and try to run the motor" Does this mean I have to open the motor and do some stuffs with the coil inside the motors OR just try different colour sequence combinations?

@@adeebazadsheriff just a different color sequence. The wires are the ends of the coils.

Yes, but some people say they had problems. I've used 40 volts from a hoverboard battery. Try using it the first time with a battery that is not 100% charged, something less than 41.25 volts. Make sure the capacitors on your board are rated at 50 volts or more (the 3 near the motor connectors). The voltage regulator (LM317) datasheet says it can regulate up to 40 volts between the input and the output. However, some datasheets say the 40 volt limit is between the output and the reference voltage. The reference voltage is 1.25 volts, so the limit would be 41.25 volts. As always, use a fuse or circuit breaker between the battery and the controller. And make sure the bodies of the transistors do not short together. Three of them are connected to +V and three are connected to -V. Let me know what results you get.

@@LowtechLLC thanks bud managed to get it going. I'm using it on a scooter. These controllers are supposed to be 500w but my other 250 watt controller does so much better. Is the "500w" rating not taking into account losses?

​@@LowtechLLC I confirm that I just burned my controller by plugging it to the 36v hoverboard battery (42v fully charged). Looks like it was because of the capacitor on the right of the first picture of your video (100 35V VT). I cannot be sure but that's where the smoke came from 😅 Mine says 16V (CK 220 16V) so that may be why... Anyway, be careful since the spec says 24-36v max...

LemonJuiceGV wear a helmet

Jamil Al Nashash you'll need two motor controllers. and the direction inputs will need to be opposite, if one is high 5v the other needs to be low ground. I have not wired two yet. I'll do a video soon on arduino control of two.

Thanks for your reply. can I use one potentiometer to control the two boards

Jamil Al Nashash I think so, both boards are using the same battery so share the same ground. the vr input on the board goes to a 10k resistor before the ic pin then a 100k resistor to ground. you will be putting those in parallel at the potentiometer's wiper (center connection) , causing the vr input impedance to be half (55k). that is still pretty big, but you may see a change in the way the motor acts as you turn the pot.

Thanks a lot Can you please send me a schematic diagram for two controllers, two motor wheels, 36v battery and one potentioneter at my email: jalnashash@gmail.com

hi, i'm working on the same subject " speed control of hoverboard wheel's with an arduino ! so if we can discuss about that !!

Get 2 controllers and use a dual potentiometer. dual potentiometers are two of the wiper/resistor part of the potentiometer, but use one shaft to turn both wipers. www.amazon.com/Dual-Potentiometer/s?k=Dual+Potentiometer

No, it is just one motor. If you want to control 2 motors you should get a second controller card. If you want both controllers to operate from one Potentiometer get a dual-potentiometer. That will have two resistive outputs controlled by one wiper shaft. That's like having two potentiometers connected to each other. Bourns part number PDB182-K420K-203B www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PDB182-K420K-203B?qs=Ivs1Be2ZGq71kZmejONMhg%3D%3D&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrJ7nBRD5ARIsAATMxstiCWK7mww5ShQ3ajfNasFCHbX06-tIB-Z_FEXQnVQw3OUS9zexyB8aAmiYEALw_wcB

Post a link, I'll pin the comment so people will see it

@@LowtechLLC I have multiple PCB sets as well but no remote control, these PCBs are slightly different, they turn on from button but the remote turns them off/calibrates/disables board.

Нет, доски у меня не загораются. Net, doski u menya ne zagorayutsya. No, the boards I have don't light up.

У меня одна плата чтото отказала. Вторую плату боюсь подключать!

Используете ли вы 36 вольт или 24 вольт или 12 вольт? Некоторые люди отмечают, что их платы не работают с 36V. Я посмотрел спецификацию регулятора напряжения LM317. Максимальное входное напряжение составляет 40 вольт. Полностью заряженная батарея на 36 вольт может быть 42 вольт. Если LM317 работает, у вас должно быть около 14 вольт на выходе. Эти 14 вольт являются входом 5 вольт регулятора LM7805. Большая проблема заключается в том, что число возможных коротких замыканий может произойти. Выходное напряжение 5 В близко к заземленному отверстию для винта. В этой точке легко замкнуть плату. И тела трех из Mosfet связаны с землей, а остальные три подключены к положительному входному напряжению. Если какой-либо из них соприкасается с одним и тем же проводником, источник питания замкнется. Убедитесь, что вы добавили предохранитель. Ispol'zuyete li vy 36 vol't ili 24 vol't ili 12 vol't? Nekotoryye lyudi otmechayut, chto ikh platy ne rabotayut s 36V. YA posmotrel spetsifikatsiyu regulyatora napryazheniya LM317. Maksimal'noye vkhodnoye napryazheniye sostavlyayet 40 vol't. Polnost'yu zaryazhennaya batareya na 36 vol't mozhet byt' 42 vol't. Yesli LM317 rabotayet, u vas dolzhno byt' okolo 14 vol't na vykhode. Eti 14 vol't yavlyayutsya vkhodom 5 vol't regulyatora LM7805. Bol'shaya problema zaklyuchayetsya v tom, chto chislo vozmozhnykh korotkikh zamykaniy mozhet proizoyti. Vykhodnoye napryazheniye 5 V blizko k zazemlennomu otverstiyu dlya vinta. V etoy tochke legko zamknut' platu. I tela trekh iz Mosfet svyazany s zemley, a ostal'nyye tri podklyucheny k polozhitel'nomu vkhodnomu napryazheniyu. Yesli kakoy-libo iz nikh soprikasayetsya s odnim i tem zhe provodnikom, istochnik pitaniya zamknetsya. Ubedites', chto vy dobavili predokhranitel'. Are you using 36 volts or 24 volts or 12 volts? Some people have commented that their boards don't work with 36V. I looked at the specification of the LM317 voltage regulator. It has a maximum input voltage of 40 volts. A fully charged 36 volt battery can be 42 volts. If the LM317 is working you should have about 14 volts on the output. That 14 volts is the input of the LM7805 5 volt regulator. A bigger problem is that the number of possible short circuits that can happen. The 5 volt output is close to a grounded screw hole. It is easy to short circuit the board at that point. And the bodies of three of the mosfets are connected to ground, and the other three are connected to the positive input voltage. If any of those touch the same conductor the power supply will short circuit. Make sure you add a fuse.

@@LowtechLLC я использую батарею от гироскутера, подключил по вашей схеме всё работает🙋‍♂️

@@LowtechLLC я поставил колёса от гироскутера на детский электромобиль, обязательно нужно ставить на плату радиатор охлаждения? Или можно без радиатора просто нагрузка не болшая будет.

You could theoretically build in one by simply switching a resistor in parallel. But you will lose the energy

Терминал «ZF» контролирует направление двигателя. Если он подключен к «GND», двигатель вращается в одном направлении. Если он не подключен, двигатель перевернется. Вы можете установить переключатель между «ZF» и «GND», чтобы контролировать направление. Разомкните переключатель в обратном направлении. «ZF» поднимается до «5 В» через резистор на 330 Ом. Он ограничивает ток, поэтому вы можете подключить его к выходу микропроцессора. Если выход «НИЗКИЙ», то «ZF» подключен к «GND». Если выход «ВЫСОКИЙ», двигатель переключится в обратном направлении. Кроме того, будьте осторожны, чтобы не закорачивать корпуса транзисторов вместе. Три из них подключены к аккумулятору «+ V», а остальные три подключены к «GND». Причина отсутствия радиатора в том, что он замкнул бы транзистор вместе. Если вы добавляете радиатор, вы должны установить изолятор между транзисторами и радиатором. lowtechllcblog.blogspot.com/2017/12/rewiring-hoverboard-wheel.html -- English Is there a reverse???? The terminal "ZF" controls direction of the motor. If it is connected to "GND" the motor turns one direction. If it is not connected the motor will reverse. You can put a switch between "ZF" and "GND" to control the direction. Open the switch to reverse direction. "ZF" is pulled up to "5V" through a 330 ohm resistor. It limits the current so you can connect it to a microprocessor output. If the output is "LOW" the "ZF" is connected to "GND". If the output is "HIGH" the motor will reverse. Also, be careful not to short the bodies of the transistors together. Three of them are connected to the battery "+V" and the other three are connected to "GND". The reason there is no heatsink is because it would short the transistor together. If you add a heatsink you must put an insulator between the transistors and the heatsink.

@@LowtechLLC большое спасибо🙋‍♂️

you mean like slow ramp up rate limiter? cause that's what I experienced with this controllers

This controller needs the hall effect sensors for feedback. That limits the controller to only one motor. If you want to run 2 motors you need two controllers. There are dual potentiometers that have 2 outputs from one knob. Each output would go to just one controller. The potentiometer sets the speed. Unfortunately the slight difference in outputs means the motors have slightly different speeds.