Interesting fact. He got so good from dryfire practice. He got al old gun that was destroyed in a fire and no longer had its barrel and cylinder and just carried it everywhere and practiced his trigger control. (Obviously he also shot a dump truck worth of ammo every year as well).
I agree, Ive shot my 6" 357 out to 400yrds and thats pushing it but 150yrds its still easy to make off hand SA shots but Ive got thousands of rounds through that guy. Most inaccurate part is generally my sight alignment with irons
When I saw the title of this video, the first thing I thought was practice, practice, practice. I could give an expensive accurized pistol to a non shooter and it wouldn’t help until they got the fundamentals down.
OK, let's say that you can hold within a 2" circle at 25 yards. So if you were shooting a laser, you would expect to have 2" groups at 25 yards. But if you are shooting a typical modern pistol that can only hold 3" at 25 yards, your groups are now 5". Put another way, an accurate gun won't make YOU more accurate, but an inaccurate gun will make you less accurate. Think about it.
I'm new to firearms, but I've been to the range a few times and the revolver I was shooting was more accurate than the semi-auto on both occasions. It might be a mindset thing for me, but I really enjoyed the revolver. The way they function is just so cool.
You're not alone. Most folks shoot full-size revolvers as well or better than semi autos. ... and they're just fun! Small/light magnum revolvers are harder to master, but that's why it's nice to shoot 38s
I picked up an old Iver Johnson cadet in 38 S&W that had a huge 0.015" barrel Gap. I machined the shoulder of the barrel that mates up with the frame to bring the barrel gap down the thickness of one thread, and stopped when the front sight was aligned. I then turned the face to leave a 0.005" barrel gap. No matter how much I shoot and heat up the gun the barrel Gap should never tighten up enough to cause trouble.
One of my first guns was a Colt Trooper Mk 3 (wish I'd never sold it, of course). I think it was untouched from the factory. That thing was _the_ most accurate handgun I have ever used. Unbelievably accurate.
Yep and like my pawnshop find of my S&W .38 s&w caliber an early 50's model Regulation Police blue steel 4 in. barrel with its fixed rear sight and front half moon blade sight out to 15 yards it's like I can't miss my target only if I try to miss on purpose !! The 5 shot revolver is just a dang tack driver as most guys say it is and I know what they mean now by saying that and it's one gun I'll never sell but the ammo is quite expensive these days as all ammo is !!!
I have a cir 1973 new model in 357 it’s so accurate it makes me look like a good shot also a new Flat top 44 special, I checked the cylinder gap on both after viewing this video and they each are a tight 3 thousandth and with trigger pulls in the 3.5 range and good muzzle crowns I would not mess with them so I still say “ just take em out of the box and fire them “. As for my 3rd gen Peacemaker well that’s a different opinion
Ah ok thank you for the info. I understand what to do. Shimming, polishing, tightening screws, changing sights or grips and testing different manufactured or self loaded ammo.
And don’t forget! As soon as you take it out of the box, you must remove the barrel and add a brand new custom barrel. Add a custom cylinder also. I also strip the blueing and add new blueing.
Jerking your gun and making the cylinder slam shut, like you see in the movies, will throw your timing off. If the timing is off, you will split the lead when the bullet leaves the cylinder and goes into the barrel. Always, and I mean always close the cylinder carefully and gently on your revolver. The timing is one factor that makes your revolver more accurate. So please do yourself a favor and don’t slam the cylinder shut.
Hard to believe but I found an FIE Buffalo Scout at a flea market and got it for $35. Has the .22 magnum cylinder too. Just had to replace the firing pin and clean it up. I know they aren’t expensive but I was happy.
My muzzle crown was burred from the factory, half pointed in the other half pointed out. This caused 6-8" low and left at 10-15 yards. Lapped the muzzle myself, much better now. Thanks a bunch S&W (sarcastically)...
After all of this you should address GRIP CUSTOMIZATION......we used to file,shape,build-up,reform our grips..... everyones hands fit differently onto a gun and this does indeed effect accuracy..... even in this video you can see this handgun recoiling differently shot to shot....yup.....
@@jamesday7344 The age of the statement doesn't matter, but it doesn't work in that regard. The marines have to work with what they're given cause they don't get anything else, while we can change how we see fit. It's about one's individual gun and it's use. @Jay Thomas Reset I've heard about a one sided pinky cut out to reduce rotation in the hand. Brownell's could do more about grip modifications.
When I used to use revolvers for target shooting, I ended up with a couple of bespoke grips that were made to measure for me. One was a single handed grip with a palm shelf and a massive thumb rest for "Olympic" style competitions and the other was a slimmer symmetric grip for action shooting. The latter gave sufficient clearance for the use of speed loaders,
Thanks and Blessings Gents on this day of remembering our Veterans, past and present..... great video! I regret that I traded a Bisley Vacquero about 20 years ago.
What about chamber sizes? I keep hearing that Rugers especially, have inconsistent sizes that affect accuracy. That they should all be sized and honed to match? We have multiple Ruger Single actions in .45 Colt and .45 acp and they seem to vary a lot. I'm surprised this wasn't addressed. It was one of the reasons i watched the video.
I need to ask this question about accuracy. Are you trying to hit a tick, or maybe a sweet pea, at 50 yards?? Lol. Chamber sizes affect accuracy????? Lol!!!
@@brandiwynter , most experts would disagree. The experts, and the well educated marketing experts will tell you and I that we need a 300 tune-up on our revolvers to make them accurate. Well, I shoot a lot of different cheap revolvers right out of the box, and I can hit a quart size milk jug at 25 yards. Do you think that’s good enough accuracy for self defense, competition, deer hunting, etc, or should you and I spend a lot of money on marketing bullshit. Practice!
@@albertforletta1498 there's a huge difference in being "good enough for..." and being as accurate as it can be. If good enough is your personal pinnacle of performance that's fine but that's only one demographic and a relatively small one at that. There's a whole world of people who prefer to get the most out of our guns, be that revolver or otherwise. If "good enough" was good enough for most people we would all own Charter Arms revolvers and Hi Point pistols.
Put rubber grips on my Python back in '82. Stopped the gun from moving in my hand under recoil. I shoot one handed and can't hit the side of a barn from inside the barn with both hands on the gun. People at the range have tried to coach me on two hand hold but I always go back to what hits the target for me.
I'll pass along a little tip for AR's with collapsible stocks. They have a problem that everyone who shoots AR's and wears a beard is probably aware of - when you take up a cheek weld with a collapsible stock, all too often beard hairs get trapped between the stock and the buffer tube, and when you move your head it will rip them right out. You can solve the problem with a 3" long piece of duck tape. Fold the tape over 1/3rd (lengthwise) such that you now have a piece of tape that's half sticky and half not sticky. Take the sticky part, and tape it laterally across the front of the stock, such that the non-sticky part hangs over the front of the stock and about 1/2" worth of the buffer tube - thus covering the gap where beard hairs get caught. The stock will collapse fully, and there will be no difference in its operation, but it will no longer snag beard hairs. I always use black duck tape, and you can hardly even tell it's there. But if you're wearing a beard, you'll know it when you shoot it.
Add a sick trigger, put a 30x optic on it, weighted grips, port the barrel, match hand loads, Mount it in a bench rest. Mount the bench to a mountain so it is stable and doesn’t move. How come brownells wasn’t able to think of these things?
You totally missed the core of the custom SA revolver, and that is the cylinder pin, which is obviously not as manufactured. Give a shout out to Belt Mountain.
Throw away & get a Glock? Nah, just kidding, I love my Single Actions! But couldn't hold myself back ;) Great Content, like everytime here at Brownells. Thank you.
I have a Ruger GP 100 Stainless 6 inch barrel in 357 magnum. I have adjusted the sights a couple of years ago and it shot excellently. Now it is shooting low and scattered left to right! Can you direct me to a good gunsmith that can do this work on my Ruger GP 100? I'm in Jefferson, NH 03583.
Could tyler gunworks do a modern production smith and wesson 41? I'm likely to get one as my woods sidearm when I get a job and have the cash. I'd like for it to have the best chance to hit.
I care almost enough to have my Ruger 7.5" SBH fixed. That thing is a pile. I thought for several years it was ammo, but it wouldn't shoot any ammo well. So then it must be me I just can't handle 44 mag. I put Houge grips on it and I did shoot it a little better, so it must be me. Then I got a model 29 8 3/8". Well guess what I shoot 44 mag just fine. I wish there was a decent revolver smith near me I'd have the Ruger fixed cause I like it. I use it to test my heavy loads before they go through the mod 29, and for flinch control muscle memory to save the 29. It would be nice to hit what I'm shooting at too.
Problem is with Ruger quality control . They make good revolver but get slack on checking tolerance on equipment and tooling . Tolerance on cylinder throats ,forcing cones , and timing could be much better and make a lot more accurate firearm and in tern drastically make happier customers and increase sales.
Take a while to find out where your handgun prints as you shoot it. Only costs may be 12 bullets. Then practice 3 x times as much as you think is needed. Dry fire (gets some fake rouinds if you want) and them practice trigger pull and do it some more. No parts needed. If you have a handgun the shoots 2" right and 1.15" down then shoot in a way to correct it... NO $$$$$. it is your weapon and like a hammer, it will do what you tell it to. If it will not hit the nail it is your fault.
Dang! Who was yanking that trigger so hard?! No talk of exit diameters or forcing cone? Tell us where you grew the metal to reduce the cylinder gap - I haven’t had to accurize a revolver in 20 years, but I think we passed over a bunch of basic stuff in this little interview.
@@theeasternfront6436 Just my opinion, but that doesn't sound like a real fix to me. And in the case of a single action revolver, like the Ruger Bisely they were showing, there is no "crane" - just a straight rod that holds the cylinder where it needs to be.
The barrel is set back 1 full thread turn and then the gap is set to the new clearance. This causes the forcing cone end of the barrel to move closer to the cylinder the distance of the thread pitch. Then that area gets faced to set the correct gap. The barrel has to be removed from the frame and machined on a lathe to do this.
Amazing that a factory revolver is so poorly manufactured, Cylinder is not properly aligned, poor crown, action is not proper and timing is off. I do not think so. I love revolvers, own several made by Ruger, S&W, and Colt. None have the issues or missing refinements mentioned in this video. When I had one, Ruger fixed it immediately, and that was the cylinder chambers where too tight. The revolvers I have purchase are accurate, tight and smooth.
I'm with you brotha. I don't understand how they can tighten and improve the cylinder gap. The only way that I can imagine would be to have an oversized "raw" cylinder that could be filed down to create the tightest fit. Otherwise, how? Shims? I don't think so! Next up...how can they modify the line-up of the chambers to the forcing cone? You have things like the cylinder bolt, pawl and ratchet that could be changed-out, but more important is the precision at which the chambers are bored into the cylinder. You can't move the chambers! Also, let's talk about notches on the cylinder where the so-called cylinder bolt (pin) engages. Those needs to be precisely cut at the FACTORY.
@@pagamenews I think they use shims. Basically really thin washers. Not 100% sure but I could swear I seen them at Brownells or Midway or some other parts company.
@@onionhead5780 yes, shimmed from the back with essentially tin foil. The differences are insanely small. They are talking about removing tolerance slop. This does make your gun more unreliable from long shooting sessions between cleaning. They may even pick up a few feet per second making hollow points more reliable in expansion. It’s all a trade off.
Do a little Google on the new Colt Python and, especially, King Cobra models. Damaged crowns, loose side plates, timing off, you name and Colt screwed it up. I once saw the inside of a S&W Model 25 from 1976. Beautiful outside in a nice presentation box. The inside of the side plate and frame looked like an alcoholic fired from the Vega assembly line did the machining. Hammer and trigger both required multiple shims to reduce side-to-side slop. Trigger was horribad. Surfaces of rebound slide and where it contacted frame looked like washboards. No wonder the gun had barely been fired. Now a pre-1960 Colt revolver? Those are mechanical beauties. So are Smith & Wessons from 1969 or earlier. If I were to buy a new revolver, I’d like to check out multiple examples of the same model until I found one that was put together right.
@@chipsterb4946 Then send it back to COLT. I happen to have a Cobra and it is beautifully made and well timed, no damage or other. Same for Smith and Wesson. On the other hand, if you buy used, then it may need work.
A lot of bunk......barrel crown and cylinder gap pressure loss? Bunk.....Revolvers do not have a 1 MOA accuracy and as long as there is a decent trigger pull and trigger brake the issue is the load work up for the pistol. Velocity and pressure and powder burn rate and bullet type are the key to accuracy. As an example testing by others for decades and my own reloading and shooting have shown the most accurate 44 mag hand gun load from a 5-/2" and 7-1/2" barrel for both Super Blackhawk and Redhawk is 210gr load with 26gr of Win296. The Keith 256gr hard cast with only 19gr of 2400 is a close second and both will shoot minute of beer can at 50yards all day long. The 210 gr is both accurate in Jacketed bullets and a gas checked hard cast Ideal#429215 which weighs just over 215gr with lube and gas check using 50% wheel weight and 50% Linotype. Practice and loads have a more dramatic affect of pistol accuracy as compared to Rifle accuracy and gun action work is minuscule on the scale of all things required to achieving accuracy from a revolver. Thats my opinion.
Minute of beer can at 50 yards!! That’s awesome.😁 I also reload, and I find my ammo, and revolvers are accurate enough for me! I’m not trying to hit a tick, or sweet pea at 50 yards.
Revolvers are rough on my hands because your index finger has to be angled down and your fist is straight vertical. It's very uncomfortable. At least the glock and luger don't force your index finger to be angled down
I noticed the custom ruger had a higher front sight that the stock front sight. My flat top bisley in 44 special shoots several inches high at 25 yards. A higher front sight is something I am interested in.
Time for me to play "devil's advocate" with your statement. My guns tend to always have some sort of chemicals on the metal parts. Sometimes it's bore solvent in the barrel and chambers and sometimes its a rust inhibitor on the exterior metal parts. Guess what? I don't want my food and beverages anywhere NEAR those chemicals. I knew a guy that was a gunsmith and had fallen ill with leukemia (it killed him). He felt that his health issues were related to the cleaning solvents that he used in his shop. I suspect he was right.
@@pagamenews you may be correct especially with aerosols. But I think he cups are there to be inviting and casual so they have a point as well. I personally try to avoid dangerous chemicals and use motor oil and Balistal as it is far less dangerous.
For all the naysayers commenting factory accuracy is good enough. This video isn't for you , keep scrolling. I completely understand most wont benefit from a more accurate pistol.
I don't know about this one. Perhaps at the highest levels this matters, but I've shot a couple revolvers that were budget guns - think Taurus level - and they were incredibly accurate. Much more-so than my semi-autos, and much more than I will likely ever be. Would like to hear JM's opinion on this one. Edit: Just realized - does this perhaps only apply to older revolvers? The aforementioned were built in the last 10-15 years.
Out of the box, with commercial tolerances, I think there can be a huge variation in the accuracy of as-built revolvers. I've seen some pre-1914 Webleys that had really precise timing and good lock-up. At uni, we have one little used ex-WW2 S&W Victory Model in .380 British (i.e. .38 S&W) that seemed really good and I discovered that it would shoot 1" groups for me at 25 metres. Probably the most accurate shooting I've ever done with a revolver was with a borrowed S&W .22 Model 17 - it was easily as accurate as I'd want for a .22. match pistol. Semi autos can be accurate too though...
God First And your point is? Everyone’s new at something sometime. I doubt that God approves of you just openly criticizing this gentleman for something so petty.
