Quikrete Concrete Crack Seal REVIEW AFTER 1 YEAR 

Love it when someone follows through with follow-up promise. Even more when it’s informative and HONEST.

Just the fact that you spent an entire year to finish this video and show the result WOW respect, thanks for the video

It is awesome that you did a 1 year follow up. You're a man of your word. Thanks for sharing.

Honestly, it doesn’t matter what type of filler product is used. If the slabs are moving/settling, the repaired joints will break/ split no matter what.

I have used this product as well. My cracks were somewhat smaller on an exposed aggregate driveway.One trick that helps disguise the filler is to top coat,before the Quikrete dries, with a layer of sand.The product has it's limitations but otherwise I am very happy with the results.One additional note.If you have a smooth floor. example a basement with cracks/chips fill with Quikrete so that it is higher than the floor surface. After a few days it can be sanded perfectly smooth with a palm sander.

Honesty. Glad you showed the cracks.......ALL of my application (less than 1/2 inch) cracked right down the center of the entire project. After the second year, EVERY inch was cracked down the center.

One year after - this is super helpful. Thanks!

I appreciate you putting up this video and showing how this product performs over time. I have multiple cracks just like the ones you show in the video yet to be repaired. Very helpful and nicely done. Thank You!

The larger gaps are expansion gaps/ cuts to facilitate movine and reduce the risk of irregular cracking. Those are guaranteed to move some so impossible to expect them not to keep cracking. Best to use a flexible sealant for those. Use foam backer rod to fill most of those gaps and top off with the flexible sealant. Works like a charm.

Almost rare to find a year later return on a reviewed product. This sort of consistency greatly increases the review.. Thanks for that…

Thanks for follow-up review after 1 year. That Quikrete product results overall is not good. I've tried over the years PC Concrete: two part epoxy in a caulking tube with nozzle that mixes as u press the caulking gun; gotten good results; hardens to touch in15-20 minutes; semi thick; product last for years. Looking forward to ur next vid. Thanks again.

Doing a review after 1 YEAR??? That is some real dedication

I used this Quikcrete and two years later ALL of the quarter inch or less cracks have cracks. Wife hates that when it rains the concrete darkens but the Quikcrete doesn't, leaving a spider web of light gray lines. This summer I'll top-coat with left over product and coat with sand as reviewer suggested.

Love it that you came back in a year to show us the True follow up review !!!!

After watching your video i become brave 😆 went to store got a bottle and fixed the crack on my garage floor, thanks 👊

5 minutes repeat process every year or so, works for me. Thanks for follow-up photos.

Only a roofing polyester fleece can prevent caulks from cracking. For hiding caulked areas use broom and dust from existing concrete while caulk is still drying.

I generally use this stuff for foundations under flooring. I haven't had an issue so far, but it's great to see how well it did after a yr... thanks!.. I personally haven't had any issues where I had to go back and redo a repair.... As long as you follow the manufacturers instructions it works great. So i'm satisfied with the product so far and I will continued to use it.

I used it on my driveway when I first bought my house. It lasted several years. I don't think the cracking got very bad until about three years later. Then I redid the worst spots. That was a few years ago and I need redo the whole thing now. I didn't expect it to last forever. I just wanted to stop the cracks from getting worse and having weeds growing in them. It's just a temporary fix, so I'm happy with what I got out of it.

I did realize after commenting that I had made a mistake. The product I bought was different though in a similar bottle. Was looking for reviews for Gripset Betta concrete crack filler. Your video came up and I didn't notice it was a different product. It still helped me decide that what I'd bought was not the best way to deal with the job. Thanks.

I have had excellent success with a thin runny mix of cement-all its pricey but can be mixed in small batches sets in 30 mins and is super strong. Having said all that I very much appreciate the way you did the one year followup that's PRO-AF.

I have tried this product with several bottles and only one did not clog. Had similar results with cracking, too. I suspect freezing had an impact... but on the bright side, no weeds grew in the cracks. Since then I found other youtube videos on concrete crack repair I plan to try next time. Thanks for the review.

When it comes to filling cracks in concrete, and gaps between pavers, I've gotten good results with using roof & gutter sealant ... just the cheapest brand available, which I find cost effective. The advantage too of roof & gutter sealant, apart from it coming in a range of colours including clear, is that I can easily work it with my fingers during application, pressing it into the crack but also into the surrounding edges, which helps to ensure a good long term grip. Why roof & gutter sealant? - simply my speculation that something rated for a great many years waterproof protection while exposed to the elements including heavy rain and the high temperatures reached by (in my case) metal roofing in a hot (Australian) sun, would presumably be pretty durable on the ground too.

If you over fill and sprinkle sand (the color of the old concrete ) the crack is far less noticeable .

Thanks for a complete review of this product and thanks for supporting my channel. Much appreciated!

I just used it yesterday. I loved the self-levelling capability this product has. Hated when the end kept getting clogged up, as it wasted my time stopping several times to fix this problem.

Hey Fix it Flip. Thanks for following through and posting the follow up video. Cheers! 🍻

Great to see the 1 year follow up! Thank you! I see there's a 3 year update too, will watch that next.

Good review! I’m in the business. The problem is that it dries and cracks. Also, people will have a problem with the fact it is self leveling. DO NOT use this on an incline, it will run. DAP has a siliconized concrete crack filler. Pressure wash the crack so the caulk adheres to the sides of the crack. Let dry. Apply caulk just slightly lower than the surface. Use an extremely wet finger to level. If you see drag marks from your finger then wet again. Top off with powdered Portland and let sit 24hours. Then blow off the excess. This is MUCH easier to use for a layman.

Thanks for the response. Your right! After watching your video I went to a road construction supply store and picked up 2 sika single tube epoxy caulking tubes that dispenses two components through a 6 inch plastic spiral screw on tip that mixes the 2 components on demand. At Home Depot I picked up a gallon of dry sika patching cement and a pint of sika bonding agent. First time I seen double tube caulking gun. For bigger jobs Sika had a (two caulking tube)side by side caulking gun you put tubes A and B in with double plungers that push the material & mixes from both caulking tubes through a spiral mixer application tip. I don’t trust my aim so I’m using masking tape each side of the cracks. When I use sika caulking at sidewalk to foundation I use duct tape for straight lines. I’ll keep watching and learning.

Thank you for following up!

I wonder if tossing some type of sand over the top would make it blend better and hid eth cracks. I've tried this product years ago and everything you said is spot on. Great video bro!

You are true to your word. I watched your video from a year earlier.

I appreciate your honest review, you saved me a lot of trouble.

I used a polyurethane self leveling crack sealer. After the crack sealer cures, (1 week is the recommended cure time) coat the concrete with a product like Dyco "Tuff Coat". I sealed my small cracks 2 years ago and then coated the driveway with Tuff Coat. Still looks perfect. Full disclosure...I live in Florida, so no snow, ice or freeze cycles ...BUT intense UV rays and lots of summertime rain.

I have not been pleased with how this stuff holds up. Good presentation.

I used it to fill along base of my homes exterior, worked perfectly, after 4 years still sealed, gotta clean debris before application

I used it to patch up my concrete driveway. One tip I can give to blend nicely is to take a few loose rocks and pieces of concrete and stick them in a heavy duty plastic bag. Smash them up with a hammer into a powder with little pebbles. Use that to sprinkle onto the quikrete before it dries. Sweep it away after it dries the next day.

The concrete is moving, anything while crack. Doesn't mean the product is bad

I just used the product 2 days ago. It goes down easy. But after it dried? It formed small cracks all along it and the original cracks were well under 1/2". I think it's a thermal issue. As the air gets warmer the cracks go away and the air cools the cracks reappear. The air temp was 80° when I applied the sealer. So I think it's due to how rigid the sealer is when it dries. It doesn't shrink or expand well to accommodate the air or ground temperature. I'd probably look to use more of an outdoor caulk next time to eliminate this problem. But it's down now, so we will see how it hold up over the winter.

It's a shrinking crack filler. Most cement repair products crack on the old fault lines. We just redo them as needed. Interesting video and historical approach to product quality.

Great Review and the fact that you showed it after one year....Wow way to go...Wished everyone did that...Thanks

You mentioned that you might try something new but you never mentioned what type of products you would consider. Cracks are hard to prevent and fix when they do happen. Thanks for this review.

I have the same issue with my small cracks as you do. Same product. I used a caulking gun style on my patio and had much better luck. I have a video on it. The fact that you are addressing the cracks will pay dividends in the future. Great video.

Thanks for the follow up. I was considering this product, but now it looks like I'll be using a different product for my cracks.

Thanks for the 1 year follow up...now I have really good idea of what to look for. Kudos man.

Silka flex makes a self leveling concrete crack filler..holds up well

Your view count is deserved. Hope you get even more for your honesty and quality.

I used it in my garage and it worked great. First I had to cut down the tree beside the garage because the roots were causing the concrete to shift and crack. If the concrete stays still then the product will work just as it says. If the concrete can move nothing will work for filler.

I gotta say - it held up pretty well....better than I expected!

It is possible that the slab is still moving which would explain why the filler is cracking.

I finally got a place not to crack on my sidewalk. I took a SDS maximum drill with a 5/8" bit and drilled holes 1/2" apart. I then leaned the drill and connected all the dots. I did a final pass with me just dragging the bit through the slot until it was clean. I blew it out then washed it. I blew it again. I added mortar mix to the crack and leveled it up. Waited a day then sawed the expansion joints with a diamond saw to relieve the stress. I gave it a week. I then pressure washed it to clean the top. I then brushed with a push broom a layer of vinyl added topping mix. After 2 days the concrete looks new. It should not crack again. That's the only way I've been successful in doing this type of repair. Otherwise the concrete keeps popping out on the first cold day, or a sudden cool down from a thunderstorm.

I used it to repair cracks in a basement floor, after three years it started to raise out of the cracks, ruining the tile that was installed over it.

I definitely agree with the clogs. I only used 1 bottle before committing to the whole project, thanks for the 1 year review.

No clue why this video was recommended to me. 🤔 Regardless, it was great content and loved the follow up video. 👍 Rock On . . . 🍺🍺🍺🍺 ✌️

Thank you, yes, I was wondering how it would hold up, thanks again!

Thanks for the video, bro. I used it. And it made a crack everywhere. I used it. In about 5 months But it still looks better than it used to. Might try it again. But this time I'm going to overlap the crack. Have a good one.

I found that liquid nail works well. I have used it on brick walls. And it glued them together. If you leave an inch and a half in the crack you can just add regular grout or cement. 7 years and it's still holding..

Polyurethane in a caulk tube stays soft and flexible like rubber forever. Doesn't crack.

All-in-all, not a bad job. However, the cracking you noted may not be due to the product itself, but in adhesion to the substrate - a good many of the splits in the material appear to be at or near the edges of the joints. In your video, you didn't mention whether or not you'd done any kind of prep work to the cement surface. As one with over 20 years experience doing industrial/commercial sealants and waterproofing, (roughly the same thing you did in this video), I can assure you that even the best sealant products will fail without proper substrate preparation. For older surfaces with a lot of dirt, and possibly oil or mold contamination, manual abrasion of the surfaces is needed - in other words, griding off the contaminants until you get to clean concrete. You can try wire brushing, or even acid-etching/pressure washing, but generally, the cleaner the surface, the better the adhesion and thus performance of the sealant, so grinding it with a wheel-grinder and blade meant for concrete works best. The same is pretty much true for newly poured concrete; there's still a lot of 'paste' at the surface, which effectively closes up the 'pores' and reduces the ability of a sealant to adhere to it. When the surface is new, and pristine (no dirt, oil, or other contaminant buildup) acid etching, pressure washing, or wire brushing works fine, though grinding is the best option. Quikrete recommends their concrete and asphalt cleaner in conjunction with this product, which is likely a mile acid wash product. Three other factors to consider when pourable self-leveling sealants are used are 1) 'thermal-coefficient'. Like anything else, concrete expands when it's hot, and shrinks when it's cold. 2) the elasticity of the sealant, and 3) the depth of the opening you're trying to fill. 2 and 3 are closely related, so I speak about those usually as one. Given that cementitious objects (any structure or slab made of concrete) expand and contract with the ambient temperatures, the sealant applied has to be able to absorb that movement. Narrow openings (like the cracks you were filling) are subject to the same thermal movement as the slab. In general, the narrower the opening, the more pronounced its thermal movement is (don't get carried away - these movements, though they can be pronounced, are SLOW to occur; slower than you can see, but they happen nonetheless). Those 'random' cracks you show likely have the added factor of settling and 'shear' movement - by that I mean the opposing sides don't have the strictly opposable (open and close, if you will) kind of movement that expansion joints are designed for. Rather, they move in a side-to-side fashion (the two sides 'slide' against one another in opposite directions) or they move in a vertical fashion (instead of sliding in opposite directions, they slide up and down against one another) . These kinds of cracks are especially difficult to apply sealants to, especially when they're fairly narrow, as that shearing movement is especially pronounced in a narrow opening. Here, using a grinder to open up the cracks to form a 'vee'-shaped opening will help reduce failures, but shear movement is problematic even in the highest grade sealants. The depth of the opening is significant in relation to elasticity. A rubber band is stretchy and elastic because it's very thin. Take that same rubber and make it a half-inch thick? It'll break before it stretches much. Same rule applies to sealants, and in face Quikrete states in their data sheet for this product it shouldn't be more than 1/4 inch thick, so use a backer rod or sand to fill cracks up to within 1/4 inch of the top to keep this product from getting too thick, which reduces elasticity. So, to summarize - open narrow cracks up by grinding the edges into a vee shape. Fill in deep cracks to they're a uniform 1/4 inch deep. Clean the edges you want the sealant to bond to by grinding, pressure washing, acid etching, or wire brushing. If you pressure wash or acid etch, give the concrete enough time to dry! 2 to 3 days for acid etching, and at least a week for pressure washing (the higher pressure is actually injecting moisture into the pores of the concrete much deeper than your garden hose and hose end sprayer would). Lastly - environment. This product is LATEX - a product that has a HORRIBLE performance record in any environment with strong, direct sunlight for prolonged periods. Ultra-violet (UV) light absolutely kills this product, and it is NOT a good choice for use in the southern United States, or any place it'll receive direct sunlight exposure over a prolonged period of time. Being able to simply pour this material into a driveway crack seems really attractive, but in 5 years time it'll most likely to have turned into a chalky, gooey, sticky mess that will spread from the crack itself to a wide area around the crack; every time you step on the mess or drive over it the mess gets spread further around. I've been on enough jobs where I and my crew had to spend days removing latex materials that had broken down to goo from UV exposure, and then cleaning up the associated mess so we could replace it with polymers that were better suited to UV exposure. Believe me when I say you don't want to go there. This product would be fine for use on a covered area, or on a garage floor, but in direct sunlight, especially as you go further south, its life span will be limited due to UV.

I generally use a similar bottle, but I use thin thinset. It takes a couple or few coats to but it is super strong and flexible. I keep a slightly dampened tile sponge to pat or feather the edges for a good seal and less visible repair. I have tried m as my other things including concrete caulk repair, and I find the thinset, when properly done leaves the least noticeable repair.

I really like the before and after. The product seems to hold up well enough. I don't mind reapplying this affordable product every year.

I’ve been using this product for a few years now, the weather here goes from below 0 to the 90s. Sooner or later the cement is going to have to be redone, but in the meantime I think this product is great. If you don’t seal it at all the cracks only become lager, I never expected it to be a permanent fix, just hold up long enough so it doesn’t because worse. Thanks for sharing and you were lucky to of gotten few dumb comm comments , just mostly helpful hints from your viewers, quit referring 👍

Honestly, people may think I'm joking, but I've found the ultimate Concrete Crack filler. Ready for this? Flex Seal Grey ! There it is. The stuff works easily. Flows into the crack better, sticks to the sides, and Flexes with the Concrete movement. Put some in my driveway cracks over three years ago, and it's still Perfect. No pull away, no cracking, no shrinking, same color.

If you want to seal and keep the seal then this is the stuff. Not cheap but it remains bonded to concrete. The trick is to use 409 as a lube as you bond it to the concrete. I’ve put this down over 3 years ago here in Phoenix and still holding up. Tremco Dymonic FC Limestone Polyurethane Sealant

Thank You for doing the update on the product. It is very helpful.

I used GE silicone seal and then smoothed the top with a trowl. After several month, so far I am very happy with it. I previously bought some tubes of concrete crack caulking and was not happy with it at all.

Thanks for this helpful follow up video. Just bought some of this yesterday. Don't think I'll use it, partly because the crack is on a sloping path so the self levelling quality is not helpful here and in an area that gets very wet then very dry. It does say on the bottle I have, under the heading NOTE, that it is not to be used as a sealer over expansion joints.

Your a professional journeyman. Excellent prep instructions, backer rod and one year durability evaluation. Then one year later look at failures and correct with 2nd next year applications. For semi covered and unseen areas it looked and performed well. For a patio or high visibility area I hope ya find a product you can share with us.

2000 I fixed a Basement floor with it . it still pulls apart as everything is settling . Preco or Red Top Hydraulic are the best for any cracks, fast dry you have to work fast, plus it gets hot 200F in your hands need good rubber gloves for BBQ that can take the heat .

NP1 Polyurethane Sealant i used for state work in the finishers union works pretty well.

Not too long ago I used this product and what I learned is it's best to overfill the cracks the first time. Because of rain then dry or drought like conditions wider gaps will form especially in 1 year's time. You may still need to refill though.

The cracks formed for a reason, there is movement and settling. This continues where the cracks are no matter what you put in it.

Great you followed up well done...man of his word 👏👏👏🇨🇦

New subsciber! I watched the original video and then this one. Well done! Great honest review! I need a ‘Fix It Flip’ at my house. The next best thing is following one and learn to do it myself!

Try equal parts baking soda and graphite, mix well, pour into cracks, cover with super glue, repeat. Forms a very strong waterproof bond

I used the same stuff on my side walk months ago. Can’t wait to check on it after a year. Had another project down the road that required a product called polymeric sand. I think* that would also work in this situation as well.

I have used the product many times. You need to put several smaller layers and then sightly, repeat, slightly, overfill the crack for best results.

I agree that the product’s application ease is wonderful, but a flexible masonry caulk is probably more durable.

A couple of years ago I went over my brownstone concrete driveway to repair some hairline cracks and not so hairline cracks as well as filling my concrete expansion joints. Items used were Sika Self Leveling joint filler, backer rods and Concrete crack sealer. (not sure of the brand from Home Depot). What I found was that the Sika has lasted the best. The crack sealer has failed in several spots. I will say I had a few big cracks that required my imagination to come up with a solution. Since I had a big crack in the center of my driveway I used backer rod first to prevent having to use large quantities of sealer. Also self leveling sealer is not your first choice here. If your crack is really deep use backer rod and maybe some regular caulk that will not run everywhere like self sealing Sika or Crack Sealer. That is your foundation. Then use the Sika on your joints and the crack sealer on the hairline cracks. I found a beige Sika sealer. Since I had a brownstone concrete driveway I put down the sealer and then added small pebble stones so it would look more like brownstone. There is a plus and minus to this approach. It looks better but adds pathways for water to penetrate around it. So my big crack needs to be redone but now that the sealer is dirty again the pebbles match quiet well in the expansion joints. Note I also used a small grinder with a masonry disc to expand the fine cracks so they would accept the self leveling sealer. You will need a dust masks and goggles(closed in on the sides), knee pads and you may even consider running a trickle of water over your crack while grinding. I also found that if you have any Concrete Crack Sealer that is above the driveway you may want to flatten it right away or see if you can take up the excess with a wet rag or even a paint stick. I also washed the find brownstone gravel in a 5 gal bucket before using it. Hope this adds to his comments if you are going to do this. Make sure to keep your expansion joints in good condition by using this as these are weak point in your concrete. Concrete lasts about 20 years if not maintained and this will save you thousands of dollars later. Stay on top of the vertical cracks across expansion joints. I usually like to do this project with about a month before the cool weather rolls in as it is not as hot and I can take my time. This is a time consuming job if you have never done it before and even if you have. I did note in areas where water tends to pool on your driveway that the Concrete Crack Sealer in the squeeze bottle is not a suitable solution so if you can use Sika Self leveling caulk you will be better off.

It isn't the product, it's the expansion and contraction of the concrete. It happens to homes that are built on a concrete slab.

I've used it, but my cracks were small. I did do a seam in front of my garage. No cracks, and it looks wonderful. The area I did doesn't get to much weather on it either so that might be why it's lasted.

Glad for the follow up as well! :)

This is maybe best for hairline cracks and not much bigger. I'm testing this on some cracks in my basement floor but also using the Quickrete concrete Repair caulk type to see how each comes out. Thanks for video

Generally these types of products require a specific width to depth ratio to reduce cracking and separation, usually about half as deep as wide. This has to do with the relative elasticity of the product verses the adhesion strength to the substrate. Also crack should be cleaned first. I have had great results cutting the handle off of a copper pipe fitting wire brush and chucking it into a drill for cleaning the crack, then rinse and let dry. I also use dry sand in the crack to control the depth of the material. Deeper is not better. I have only used this particular product once and didn't care for the squeeze bottle applicator. I have since moved to caulking gun application for much better control and relief from cramping fingers.

The video was very well done. Good honest review. Thank you.

In my experience: if you are working in an area that freezes and thaws, you need to use polyurethane products.

thanks, your efforts have informed and assisted me. Well Done ! ! !

Seems like suitable product depending why filling the crack is an issue and what you expect from it. It obviously doesn’t solve setting problems. Might prove useful preventing weeds from growing, making sweeping easier, and preventing trip hazards. I used leftover epoxy, fiberglass resins, and pretty much whatever else in shop environments to fill holes and voids left from removed equipment. Made cleaning up easier. As for aesthetics, this type of product seems to draw my eye to the issue instead of detract from it.

Thank you just checked out the power washing of your sidewalk and garbage can area . thanks for the video I gave you a thumbs up

I think that this is a temporary fix at best or until you realize that the concrete needs to be repoured. I have a driveway that is affected by various underground roots from nearby tall trees that have under grown beneath the driveway. The cost to repave my entire driveway is going to run $ 2500 - 3000 and I am sure that the materials to under take this project are significantly less. This might work in small areas with nominal cracks in areas that are not all that obvious

Two things: a) what are your range of temperatures and specifically winters as it seems like cold expanding and contraction would be hard to deal with no matter what. b) I've seen others fill the cracks with Closed Cell Backer Rod or a water noodle trimmed for wide cracks first so there is less material used.

Looking more closely at some of the larger cracks, it appears to me they resulted from shearing action. This tells me that the slabs are continuing to shift, albeit slightly, but enough to stress the filler. The same is true for the smaller cracks. I find it helps to dig a 2”-3” deep narrow trench around the outside edge of the slabs if possible. Fill the trench with 1” gravel and pack it down. This will help stabilize the concrete. You can stop the gravel an inch or so below the surface and top with soil or keep it level as a border with the slab.

I used this on the expansion joints of a driveway in 2017. Make certain you use backer bead and pour deep enough - like 1/2" - otherwise it will dry out and crack up/apart, fall out. I'm doing it again with Sika, hopefully for the last time.

Could be some of the slabs are moving. No way to stop cracking then. Thanks, informative!!!

Good to know. I'm going with the Rustoleum 2 part.

Thanks Flip!

Nicely done, very helpful. My drive is sloped I'm concerned about it running down. Any recommendations?

maybe when applying use fine sand and work it in with the filler pack it down and remove excess... or just use concrete mix thats a "little" more wet than usual... if you have hot summers and freezing winters theres not much one can do as nature will always win..

I actually used mortar for my neighbor's cracks few years ago and it's still holding strong.