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R-Rated: 5.14 Climbing on Marginal Gear 

Fusis Films
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William Moss (17 at the time of filming) relentlessly pursues the dangerous goal of climbing 5.14 with marginal trad gear at Washington's premiere granite crag Index.
"En Passant" French for "In Passing" was first free climbed by Nathan Hadley which is the direct start to the 5 pitch climb "Ten Percent" in the center of Index's Lower Town Wall, first aided by Bruce Carson and Dave Anderson in 1972.
During the first ascent of "En Passant" two bolts were placed through the crux section to avoid the need for placing small nuts and taking potentially dangerous falls on them. The meat of the climb is 25 moves of techy vertical granite bouldering clocking in around V10/11. The establishment of "En Passant" made it likely to be Index's first 5.14.
In summer of 2022, William Moss stepped up to the base of "En Passant" with the goal of climbing it entirely on gear. The top half of the route depends entirely on the reliability of a small 5kn offset nut, which if fallen on would result in a 20ft+ pendulum whipper (if the piece holds). Will gives the route an R-rated safety rating.
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EN PASSANT
Featuring: William Moss
Directed by: Mantas Motekaitis
Filmed by: Mantas Motekaitis & Paul Doffing
Editing by: Mantas Motekaitis & Cedar Wright
Title Graphic: Matthew Vincent Torres
Audio Mastering: Paul Doffing
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Опубликовано:

 

29 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 97   
@barkingtaco
@barkingtaco 10 месяцев назад
That first fall was insane
@dr3857
@dr3857 10 месяцев назад
I thought he was about to deck face first into jagged boulders!!!!
@Lackchad
@Lackchad 10 месяцев назад
Especially without a helmet…
@alexanderknips4690
@alexanderknips4690 9 месяцев назад
Yeah. Thinking the same. This is the kind of climb where one should wear a helmet for sure.
@Govanification
@Govanification 2 месяца назад
Was he being belayed by a tree? That was an insanely hard catch too.
@CasaDelMandar
@CasaDelMandar 10 месяцев назад
dude just give me more climbing films like this. i dont wanna hear about how someone found a deeper meaning in life cause of a rock climb, just share the awesome experience
@danhonneyman6911
@danhonneyman6911 9 месяцев назад
all the UK gritstone films mate!
@tristanmayfield4851
@tristanmayfield4851 10 месяцев назад
I watched this because en passant is forced
@pauldoffing
@pauldoffing 10 месяцев назад
😂🙏
@giankunz9469
@giankunz9469 9 месяцев назад
😂😂😂
@guitarhero02035
@guitarhero02035 9 месяцев назад
holy hell
@markstewart9362
@markstewart9362 10 месяцев назад
It’s always a pleasure seeing index on film!
@Govanification
@Govanification 2 месяца назад
I didn't read the description and at first didn't recognize it since the filming was pretty dark, but once I saw him sitting down next to the start of Sagittarius I was like index index!!
@skateday4life1
@skateday4life1 10 месяцев назад
Will is a beast!! Hyped he is getting recognized for his talent!
@brandonbeckius3799
@brandonbeckius3799 10 месяцев назад
Holy hell, new climb just dropped.
@andwhale06
@andwhale06 10 месяцев назад
The nut popping with the slightest take right at the end lmao. Great video, proud send.
@Ground_Control66
@Ground_Control66 9 месяцев назад
I’m glad someone else saw that 😂
@Mike-oz4cv
@Mike-oz4cv 6 месяцев назад
The force wouldn’t go in that direction during a fall. His assessment at the start of the video sounds good.
@AK-ContentCreatIon
@AK-ContentCreatIon 9 месяцев назад
Hats off! Just jawdropping stunned to say the least! Way to go! This is THE WAY!
@krs2717
@krs2717 10 месяцев назад
Thanks for the video, I'm looking forward to more from this channel.
@fusisfilms
@fusisfilms 10 месяцев назад
More to come! 🤙
@steveilg6134
@steveilg6134 10 месяцев назад
Eff YES!!! Throwback to my Gen! Thank u!!! Well sent!!! 🙏🏽🕉
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 10 месяцев назад
"Its all in the mind". Which is why we are all one head injury away from perma retirement. Wear it.
@user-cl9zf9wj9i
@user-cl9zf9wj9i 10 месяцев назад
Yeah; I used to only wear the dome while on the ground... but you grow up sooner or later and reality sets in: anything can happen and it’s only a matter of time before something happens to you. Be safe, be strong, be smart.
@trevorlately
@trevorlately 10 месяцев назад
bravo. well climbed and well told.
@pastrop2003
@pastrop2003 10 месяцев назад
Congrats Will, outstanding send and a good film. All the best! It had always been obvious to us who watched you training at the Cliffs what a great climber you are.
@jchuggin
@jchuggin 10 месяцев назад
Sick climb! I subbed so there better be some more content asap 😉
@fusisfilms
@fusisfilms 10 месяцев назад
Thank you! More on the way ☺
10 месяцев назад
What a promising dude, such dedication and wisdom at only 17!
@jayknot88
@jayknot88 8 месяцев назад
Thanks for documenting the process!
@AirSpace
@AirSpace 10 месяцев назад
Sweet inside process and external execution. Love the film!
20 дней назад
Wow! Go Will!
@ashhodson2063
@ashhodson2063 10 месяцев назад
My man is straight up drinking honey at 1:17
@J0SHU4N0LL
@J0SHU4N0LL 10 месяцев назад
Great work everyone!
@Deckageskate666
@Deckageskate666 2 месяца назад
That tiny piece popping as the belayer took made me laugh so hard, fucking brilliant climbing. Not sure about wearing drago’s on granite tho, sure that added to the difficulty
@Trevino293
@Trevino293 10 месяцев назад
great filming and climbing!
@forrestpailes1493
@forrestpailes1493 9 месяцев назад
Paul! Where are you at these days! Just saw this on my RU-vid feed! Reminds me of last summer. Very cool to see!
@pauldoffing
@pauldoffing 9 месяцев назад
I'm around good buddy, in the Red currently! Hopefully I'll catch you at some point.
@forrestpailes1493
@forrestpailes1493 9 месяцев назад
@@pauldoffing sick! I'll be in bishop all winter
@robbyplummer9414
@robbyplummer9414 10 месяцев назад
Nice job William!!
@BiggieChungulus
@BiggieChungulus 10 месяцев назад
I have a feeling chesstube will find their way here, confused as hell. Then pick up climbing shortly after.
@boosted_john
@boosted_john 10 месяцев назад
Epic film. Kids swole.
@4Burcu4
@4Burcu4 10 месяцев назад
Amazing Will! ❤🎉👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼✨
@Mkhitar
@Mkhitar 9 месяцев назад
Respect!
@Turnoutburndown
@Turnoutburndown 10 месяцев назад
So tense!
@GoodLuck-rh8tb
@GoodLuck-rh8tb 10 месяцев назад
I will never understand hard trad videos where they cut out gear placements.
@Leander_
@Leander_ 10 месяцев назад
Very cool!
@princenabby1
@princenabby1 10 месяцев назад
my favorite part is all the tick marks he left on the wall. I love it when a route looks like a school chalk board.
@TF-uk2gn
@TF-uk2gn 10 месяцев назад
Oh boo hoo - go clean them
@conormcglacken4215
@conormcglacken4215 4 месяца назад
Holy hell!
@DinoTamer23
@DinoTamer23 Месяц назад
BadAss
@eastakho
@eastakho 10 месяцев назад
Awesome!!! :)
@paulmitchell5349
@paulmitchell5349 9 месяцев назад
Trad point well made. A helmet would be prudent.
@leonardbertaux6897
@leonardbertaux6897 9 месяцев назад
We’ll done! There’s trad climbing and then there’s everything else.
@jaredasa626
@jaredasa626 10 месяцев назад
Sick video. Subbed
@fusisfilms
@fusisfilms 10 месяцев назад
Thanks for the sub!
@PatrickBeeson
@PatrickBeeson 9 месяцев назад
Sick!
@skylinesclimbing
@skylinesclimbing 10 месяцев назад
Nice job! For the record, there is a bomber cam placement at this nut and a bomber ball-nut above it. For others attempting this route it will not be R rated.
@pauldoffing
@pauldoffing 10 месяцев назад
Which cam?
@skylinesclimbing
@skylinesclimbing 10 месяцев назад
Z4 yellow/red
@pauldoffing
@pauldoffing 10 месяцев назад
​@@skylinesclimbing I'm not sure that figures in, as I believe it's the runout from the primary placements to the anchor that gives it it's danger rating. It'll be interesting to hear what future ascensionists say.
@skylinesclimbing
@skylinesclimbing 10 месяцев назад
@@pauldoffing I mean that the cam fits nicely in the pin-scar where Will places his last piece, the marginal 5kn nut. A good ballnut can also be placed in the small slot above it.
@pauldoffing
@pauldoffing 10 месяцев назад
@@skylinesclimbinginteresting! Hard to believe those were missed.
@_liamhobson_
@_liamhobson_ 9 месяцев назад
Holy cow!
@nicholashumphrey901
@nicholashumphrey901 4 месяца назад
Nine hundo!
@maximusmister15
@maximusmister15 10 месяцев назад
Whoa!
@mostlyfriendly222
@mostlyfriendly222 10 месяцев назад
Hard trad enjoyer
@LukeRockCimber
@LukeRockCimber 10 месяцев назад
Wearing the softest shoes in the lineup … wow
@setadoon
@setadoon 10 месяцев назад
Thats what i was thinking! lol
@kevinmauge3699
@kevinmauge3699 10 месяцев назад
fr every edge looks like a struggle haha
@Govanification
@Govanification 2 месяца назад
4:00 "All the hard climbing I've done before this is overhung sport climbing, gym climbing..." yep. He should get some katanas for thin index climbing.
@causeitsthere
@causeitsthere 9 месяцев назад
Good job but the lines with chalk pointing down on the features is such bad style. Putting a little dab of chalk on top of the best part of the hold/foot jib. I’ve seen this happening in Tahoe and it’s gross.
@skylinesclimbing
@skylinesclimbing 9 месяцев назад
Took a lot of scrubbing from a member of our community, then some rain before they finally went away.
@causeitsthere
@causeitsthere 9 месяцев назад
@@skylinesclimbing guy should have brushed it after he sent it but then that would put responsibility on one and in todays world we can have that for our fragile youth. Sarcasm.
@jeffb.1555
@jeffb.1555 9 месяцев назад
Sick film. Anyone have an idea where this wall is located?
@Govanification
@Govanification 2 месяца назад
Index, Washington (state), USA. Crag is Lower Town Walls
@jonojono763
@jonojono763 9 месяцев назад
me when i google en passant
@moabdesertadventures6712
@moabdesertadventures6712 7 месяцев назад
I have a hard time understanding how the vicious and frankly absurd use of tick marks makes a traditional ascent of this route any more fulfilling than using the bolts. I can barely see the bolts in the footage, but the tick marks are, to my eyes, heinous. To me, that zeroes out the principle of this traditional ascent, compromises the respect often garnered by this type of climb, and highlights the contrived novelty of this. It's even more disappointing to read the comment below that the climber didn't clean up after himself. It's so easy to do and, again, in my opinion, very disrespectful to any area, much less an area that you're visiting. As a climber I think that respect for the resource is paramount to any climbing accomplishment, and it is our responsibility as climbers to treat the land that graces us with this pursuit with the utmost of honor. Hopefully his style has improved as he's aged into this pursuit.
@ikarosdream5971
@ikarosdream5971 10 месяцев назад
6:54 what song was that? Anyone?
@Emomcdarkness
@Emomcdarkness 8 месяцев назад
Check Mate
@paulkiefer8716
@paulkiefer8716 10 месяцев назад
Mother of tickmarks... 😫
@krakenattackin7617
@krakenattackin7617 9 месяцев назад
should probably brush ticks. and wear a helmet. big respect but for a trad ascent it was pretty poor style
@benjaminnicholls5222
@benjaminnicholls5222 9 месяцев назад
a tich of tism i suspect
@jasonlambert6446
@jasonlambert6446 3 месяца назад
Wear a god dam helmet.
@pnzrldr
@pnzrldr 10 месяцев назад
I guess I don't get it. Why would you deliberately make a very tough climb more inherently dangerous? It is about, 'can you climb the route,' not about, 'can you climb it in a more hazardous manner than others.' Trad climbing is cool, if done at an appropriate grade, and when other protection is unavailable. But climbing past a bomber-solid bolt to place a micro nut before a super-tough crux? Ego, machismo, and one-upsmanship - "look Ma, no hands!" "Hold my beer!" This is not what I think climbing is about. If I want this mentality, I'll watch base jumping vids.
@simonsimon9880
@simonsimon9880 9 месяцев назад
No, I'm sorry, but climbing a route in the best style possible has *always* been what climbing is about. But its ok; you really don't need to get it.
@AaronRashaw
@AaronRashaw 7 месяцев назад
With all due respect I think your first sentence sums it up. Why would you climb this route on bolts when you could top rope it? Much safer. Is that one upsmanship etc..
@pnzrldr
@pnzrldr 7 месяцев назад
@@AaronRashaw Hmm.. I take your point. I've done plenty of things in my life that were inherently unsafe, just for a rush. Guess I'm getting old! Plus, I'm a general aviation pilot, and the embedded safety culture is constantly at odds with the desire - and need - to push the envelope a bit to gain proficiency. Lastly, I am both an active (moderate grade) climber, and the parent of a climber. Changes one's perspective a bit. I'll have a think on it over coffee.
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