Racing HEAVY trains with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION locomotive! | Derail Valley Races Ep. 3 

Thank you! That makes sense.

If you are coupling up to an electric engine, you always use the car's chain, for your own safety. If you need to use the engine's chain, the pantograph must come down, 25 kV AC is no joke.

Yeah, you don’t want to become the thing that completes the ground circuit between the locomotive and the rail, and there’s very little chance you can tell from outside if a piece of equipment has only partially lost its ground!

The game changes the chain somwhere on the route. If you are use the car's chain, at the destination will be used the engine's chain. It's a glitch or something.

If you are coupling to a coach with a drophead buckeye like a MK1 or MK2 you will have to use the locos chain/shackle (unless you use the emergency one in the guard's van).

I've heard you should use the one from the car, because if it breaks you have a car out of order, instead of having downtime on a locomotive. But that's just from RU-vid comments, so no clue how accurate that is.

The way I’ve done it, being a volunteer at a Uk heritage museum, the rule is: loco to passenger coach (except in some circumstances), loco wagons fitted with vacuum or air brakes, or Unfitted wagons to locomotive( or as I was first told, “Class 9 freight”)

Another former UK heritage railway wallah here. We were always tild engine to carriage, as the engine (and thus coupler) was more frequently oiled and maintained. With freight it was preferred, but simetimes necessary to use wagons (instanter, rather than screw) coupler if using a coupling rod - the latter however being rather unnecessary in the heritage sector.. .

Thirding the Loco-to-passenger-coach on heritage railways rule.

That's neat to know, I'll always do that now when I play without Zeibach's Couplers

@@ProtonTheProtogen A light sprinkle of realism is always welcome. Glad I could help!

Where my DM3 Sport? But can you rev match it

I haven't blown up DM3,DH4, S060, S282, DE6. Blown up DM2 and only had the TM motor switch turn off, so I gotten lucky.

@@kyleclemmons2006 I can say the same for the DH4, DE6, and S060. I did manage to blow the cylinders on a S282 but was able to crawl back to the nearest repair bay and fix that. As for the DM3, I had done a small delivery to GF using a DE2 and saw the DM3 for the first time sitting in the siding and wanted to play with it, had the money, and bought the license. Successfully did a shunting job with no issues and got the job to deliver the train I just loaded to the Harbor. Almost got to the main line and was using the engine break to slow down. It was going good and then I shifted wrong, there was a bang, and the DE3 was in the weeds.

Ive only used the DM3 in 1st gear, havent switched gears cuz im too scared ill bomb the transmition

​@@yogabumm Honestly shifting up is easy. Shifting down is where its more risky. I can give you a few pointers. 1. Remember to always drop the throttle to zero before changing gears. Otherwise you will strip everything out. 2. Practice doing shunting jobs. I particularly would recommend harbor or Goods and Factory town as they are both completely flat with plenty of room to work with. 3. Shift up when the RPM's are between 800-1000 4. Slow the train and engine down until you get the tachometer to around 400 RPM before downshifting. If you downshift with the RPM's too high you will spike them above 1000 RPM and blow the gear box. ****WARNING**** If the train is in motion, make sure you only go down one gear at a time when downshifting. You can usually jump over a gear or two when accelerating and the worst you will do if you jump too far is stall the engine. Jumping more than one gear down while in motion usually ends up with the guts of your gearbox being dumped out between the rails. 5. Go in small steps. Practice just the first few gears and get used to them. I would probably start with the first four gears which use the following patterns 1st 1-1 2nd 1-2 3rd 2-1 4th 2-2 6. From there slowly add in one gear at a time until you hit them all. 5th 3-1 6th 3-2 7th 2-3 8th 3-3

I didn't choose the Chug Life- the Chug Life chose me XD

DV doesn't use emergency

Gotcha! That makes a lot of sense. Thank you, my friend!

@Hyce777 the DV fandom wiki has a chart with gear ratios and max speeds for all gears. 1-3 is recommended to skip because it's awkward to get to from 3-1, and it's only 2 kmh faster than 3-1.

money-shift lol that's the mistake on high performance manual cars

With DH4 MUed 😈

Oh lord.

@@Hyce777 Amen

That sounds pretty consistent with what we do over here. :)

12 speed with two crawler gears.

Oh hey, fancy seeing you here!

@@pranavghantasala6808 oh hey there :)

Won't happen. Devs said to add MP would require such a rewrite that they might as well make DV2 at that point.

I am hoping that they're under promising with the hopes of over delivery. They've got a few difficulty settings that are labelled in such a way that they're geared towards multiplayer...

Glad it helped! :)

But I do 1300T From SM to HB anyway💪

@@brunoais That doesn't seem too difficult if you have enough run-up, it is mostly downward grade, aside from the initial few kilometres out of the SM which is a slight incline.

@@Isylon You need to do good throttle management out of SM, otherwise you stall or blow up. After that, during the descent, you need to use engine brake otherwise it's very easy to overheat.

I'd seen someone else mentioned the other way: you would use the car link to locomotive, so that if it were to break you have a less often used and less stressed link on the locomotive to reattach with. Pretty sure it depends (drink) on the railroad, but I'm sure they'd all have their own standard (use link on font car to hook to rear, for example, meaning to always use locomotive link).

I would mod in some more lights. It's so dark that I actually find myself getting eye strain sometimes while driving it.

It's not, based on the ratio chart. Wish it was that easy. lol

Yes, there is a guide in the steam app.