LugNuts thank you. Walls are all done now. All diy slat wall walls jand made. So Tons more ply up these days! Literally tons and tons and tons more lol!!
This is by far the best clear explanation on RU-vid for building a hydronic system. Well done. Looking back is there anything you would change? Not ashamed to say I’m about to copy your model almost completely...
Awesome job! this is exactly what I’m getting ready to do... I’m doing a 1600 sqft pole building so if you have any words of advice or things you would do differently please share! Can you share a link to the pumps?
Hey Mike, Quick note on your second pump; the electronics are facing downward and I literally just saw a video from a Technician stating that’s a No-no. Should your pump sweat, that water will go down towards the electronics and potentially damage it. As such, you might wanna revisit that. Hope that helps.
I have the same pump and instructions clearly state that it can be installed the way Mike installed it so should be fine. I do see however where your concern is coming from Ivan and is a good point.
hello good system! 1 question how do you feed the system with water? do connect a T or something from the outside supply water? i am not clear how the system feed itself
Nice job Mike! Really appreciate your insight. My thought was to buy a panel from Menards and take it to my local Plumbers Supply and tell them to sell me all of these parts and then return it back to Menards and assemble/solder it up myself on a piece of plywood!
Hi Mike, I notice your system does not have a Water Pressure Reducing Valve to decrease the high psi city water in the system. But the return water from the system had a pressure of 23psi, how did that happen, I thought the city water pressure is about 45-65psi. Thank you
Echo Smart , I sm jyst deciding what way to go. This was one thought , but also looking at a heat pump hot water tank only using 450 watts only on heat pump mode, im sure this will save so much $$$ a year. Wonder how much this option costs pr month
Why are there zone valves when they are all on or all off? What about a plain manifold... a piece of copper with 9 fittings for supply... and another one for return ? The water would circulate to everything when the tstat calls for heat and turns on the pumps.
@@bloomingtonmike is that really necessary? I dont know the answer. I DO know in electricity if one connected section of wiring has a higher resistance.... it wont get power. I hope someone else weighs in on this.
Thank you for the information! I’m considering the same concept for heating radiant floors in my homes bathrooms and gas is not an option. How often do you flush the system? And do you think you need that powerful of a electric burner? I mean it’s low pressure and your not heating 40-50 degree water. If the water is returning at say 80 degrees and it’s only raising it 10-20 degrees would a less expensive boiler (that uses less electric) still get the job done?
This is the cheapest tankless water heater you can buy, it is not a boiler. BTU requirements of the building dictate the size of the boiler needed to heat it. 1kw equals 3412 BTU so if you need 34120 BTU for your space, you need 10kw worth of boiler and will use 10kw worth of electric. Less power equals less heat
@@Darinp87 there are cheaper units that only require 1 40A fuse... this unit required 3 fuses... poster could try smaller unit to see if can keep up with demand, once slab at temp and if insulated properly a smaller unit may work for his purposes...
there are also low voltage electric units that are simply wires installed under flooring, typically under tile and inside of mortar that my friends are using, claims cost couple bucks a month to operate..
@@craiggerlach5548 no. The BTU demand of the space dictates the necessary electrical input. This size building could not be heated with a boiler only requiring a 40A fuse. Same rule applies to your liar friends using resistance cables at "a couple bucks". There is no way to get more output from electric resistance heat emitters than goes in.
The vlave allows mixing. Flow rates are different because of head pressure and water volume. Primary mixes all the the time and lowers the delta T entering the boiler.
@@bloomingtonmike he likely asked because it is in full off position, no mixing.. I was questioning too as I was going to run a 1 pump for simple 2 zone twin 150' runs in small addition.. and saw no need for one but do see them used all the time.. my manifolds for a 2 run were just over $100.. and both in and out have air purge, wondering if enough or need micro on top of expansion tank... want to be able to add to system and put pex under floor in future, back says next year, so 1 side of house on electric baseboard until then or cranking up addition and hoping can double heated space..
@@bloomingtonmike HI Mike, old thread and comment but thought I would mention this in case others like me are designing the system presently, and found this info and your video very helpful. I did notice however that you installed your (secondary pump) on the left side of the mixing valve. This means your primary (boiler pump) and secondary (System Pump) are on the same circuit. Referring to the Stiebel Eltron system (Hydroshark), you can see the System pump is installed on the right side of the mixing valve. This allows the primary "boiler loop" and the secondary "emitter loop" (pex loop) to be hydraulically separated from each other. This allows the flow rates of each circuit to be set independently for optimum performance. Not sure if putting the pump to the left side of the mixing valve (as you did)does the same. Were you told differently or have any comments on this? Thank you again for great video and explanations.
@@Triggerman2505 I had the same question as I did not understand the need for a second pump - I have seen several systems that only use one pump. Both seem to work. I contacted Hydro-Shark and asked the question. Here is the response: "The reason for a 2-pump setup is to create hydraulic separation using the closely spaced tee. This allows heat to be transferred back into the boiler while also providing heat to the floor. This creates a far more efficient setup as the return temps into the boiler are warmer allowing for the boiler itself to work more efficiently. Using a single pump system certainly works but the main problem is by the time the heat is transferred into the floor and returning back into the boiler it has significantly dropped temperature making the boiler have to work harder to increase the temperature." Note: This is what Mike was talking about in a previous reply when he referred to Delta T. If anyone doesn't want to bother going the DIY route and just getting the pre-built panel - the folks from Hydro-Shark were really helpful.
Hey Mike, the setup looks great! Curious how it's been working out for you. I'd like to use a tankless electric heater for a single story, 3 zone, 1600sq ft house that I'm building. Compared to your square footage and the large space you are heating, I'd think that this heater would be plenty sufficient for my needs(it's also a full SIP structure so heat loss is minimal). Any feedback would be much appreciated!
If you can run a nat. gas heater do that. Its not cheap to run this one. Plus three 40 amp circuits is pretty large and the wire to run to them is not cheap either. That being said it works great now that I have wall and ceiling insulation. Make sure you r value is high!
Great. Thanks for the reply. R value will be really high and a really tight building envelope with the SIPs structure. I live in PA, not crazy cold winters, but cold enough. I can't get natural gas, but propane is certaintly an option. I was just trying to avoid using an actual water boiler since radiant doesn't need super hot water.
The primary loop virculates faster than loop going through lines. Creates a warmer path to dump.line wster into as it enters boiler. Reduces how hard the boiler has to work and reduces amperage boiler pulls at the minimal cost of running second pump. So less eear and tear, cheaper, and lower delta change in temp difference. Also provides a backup solurion if sized correctly.
This decision looks strange. I think the seller came up with this scheme in order to sell more goods. This issue of reducing the load can be solved in a completely different way. As I understand it, the valve that is located on the double tee is always closed. I mean, it's not needed. And money has been paid for it. In this order, the arrangement of parts leads to a large cost of money. Thank you for the answer.
I do, an in floor temperature probe but it is not needed. Ultimately you just care what the room temp is. If its not warm enough, set the thermostat so it still tuns on the pump.
@@ngplumbing8948 up to you if you want to know the floor temp , the cables are only about 15' long though. The temp in your room is all that matters, if not warm enough you want it to keep running. Btw, -8 outside and 40mph wind and 40 degree F in the shop.
@@gschaaf713 i spent $1800 on my pex, manifold, panel parts, and boiler to heat my shed. I don't understand your question honestly. Quotes to do this were 8 grand from folks to install this for me. Even purchasing lesser panels completely built was much more expensive.
@@bloomingtonmike my point was not to say the build was expensive. i was confused about the total cost because you answered initially with 800 and then said plus 1000 in a pex manifold kit. why wouldnt you include the cost of the pex manifold kin in your initial response? i wasnt sure if you were saying the total cost was 1000 or 1800. thats a great price for a system like that. thanks for sharing.
I'm considering a radiant floor heat system on a new home build in MA. I'm debating whether electric would be more beneficial to us than gas/propane since we'll be going solar. Any thoughts on this? We'd be doing a staple up system using PEX and heat transfer plates between the floor joists in the basement. The house will be very well insulated.
Go with what fuel is cheapest in your area. Electric was my choice as the electric boiler was cheaper and this is a shop not house. Ideally I'd go gas. Natural gas is cheaper to run monthly. Electric is more efficient boiler wise but you are taking a loss doing transfer to plate so you will want the best cost you can get at the end of the month.
@@bloomingtonmike I have gas at my current house, but its not available where we are building the new house. Our options are propane, oil, or electric. Electricity is outrageous in our area. My electric bill this month was $500+. I'm leaning toward propane.
@@randomstuffwithjoe solar may be tough as the boilers are quite taxing at full load. This one is three 220v single phase 40amp circuits. Does not draw that all the time but do a load calc with your poco and solar engineer. Id do propane personally. Best advice ? Insulate like crazy!
Clint Eastwood it enters just below upper pump and exits just above it. Thats only for filling and purging the initial fill or for any flushing. It is a sealed pressurized setup and does not need a supply line during normal use. It does not loose water/glycol.
At the end of the day this is electric heat. Not the most economical choice in my mind. 49 years in the plumbing trade and have built about 10 infloor systems.
