Man we need to call you the rc boat doctor!You got some skills in your builds and love the way you did the stuffing tube!I just had to drill one out of a proboat shockwave and what a job when they just pour resin in and take skill to drill out without damaging the hull!Live your tips and keep em coming💪
Sincerely appreciate your videos. Applying to my efforts.You never mentioned what type of painting equipment generally used by builders to paint boats in your video setting up painting area. Thanks and please continue videos.
Hi Robert, I'm glad you like the videos. I use a regular automotive type paint gun (small one) to shoot my boats, using a traditional base coat/clear coat system. I've heard a lot of guys say good things about USC Spraymax 2K clear coat and I'm tempted to try it on my latest boat. If I do, you can be sure there'll be a video of it! Thanks for watchin'!
Great videos I have watched them all, they are very helpful as I built a boat 30 years ago and couldn’t afford to finish it until I retired. I have back tractor a ton doing as many modifications as possible learned from your videos. Keep up the great videos and keep building, I will find more videos I hope.
hello good job, you know how I did I took the tube filled with salt and then I warmed with the gas lamp then I bent how it was needed end then I aligned as best I could with the motor shaft and the strut,and a nice boat came out .
I love your videos and all the information you add as you go. I have enjoyed so much that I just started my own build of a 1/8 scale hydro for FE. Seems more questions come up as I try and plan through. I saw that you angle the strut toward the turn fin slightly but was wondering do you have the motor and strut centered in the hull?
Hi Wayne, Thanks for the nice comments. You've kinda opened a big can of worms there. I've been meaning to do a full set-up video that would cover this and much more, just haven't got to it yet. So... The short answer for now is this; In 1/8 scale I offset the motor, shaft, and strut to the left about 3/16", and in gas I offset everything to the left between 1/4" - 3/8" depending on my mood at the time. Many reasons, some good, some debatable, but that'll have to wait 'til the video. Happy building!
@@M5PerfHydros Thanks. As I was planning out, this seemed to be along the lines I thought would be worthwhile to do. Any video you do has given me ideas and new aspects to consider so I appreciate your time and answers.
Scott, I know they use a hydraulic press to do the ends but I can't seem to find the video now. Warehouse hobbies had one at one time and you could get custom length double ended square drives, it was pretty cool.
Being that it's my first project ever. I'm going to try just with one motor being that the boat is being made with balsa wood I'm afraid two motors will be too strong for a balsa boat. So one 1600kv motor for now using a 200amp esc I'm actually enjoying this build tricky on the curvy sides but coming out nice. If it comes out good then my next project will be one of your boats cause I love your vids and your plywood boat's are awesome.
@@CarlosReyes-tf7ul - Have you seen the kits from MLBoatworks? They are awesome and fit together perfectly like a puzzle. Check it out here; mlboatworksrc.com
Hey Scott, in this video and maybe a couple others you mention hard spotting, but I haven't found any videos that explain your process. I'm guessing it might be something like drill an oversized hole, back fill with thickened epoxy, re-drill a correct sized hole for the fastener you're using. Am I close? And the purpose is to seal the wood? I'm getting ready to poke some holes in my first build since I was a teen. Thanks, I really get a lot from your videos!
Oh so close! You got all of it except that I don't thicken the epoxy. I oversize drill everything, then put some tape on one side of the hole, stand the hull so the hole is perpendicular, and fill it with epoxy. You need to babysit it for a while and keep adding epoxy as the epoxy soaks into the surrounding wood. Once the epoxy starts to set it'll top off and hold. The whole point is to prevent the wood from collapsing where you tighten things. When that happens it just looks bad, and makes you feel like a bad builder. Don't be a bad boat builder! Also, and from a practical standpoint, when the wood crushes around your turn fin mount the alignment changes considerably. When this happens you lose performance and, yes, once again you've become a bad boat builder. Be a good boat builder. Use hard spots.
Yes! I've been planning to do a full video about boat setups and I'll discuss weight balance too. Problem; I've moved to a new property and all my gear is packed away while I build a new shop. So... Please be patient. Much more coming soon!
Pictures! Get 8 x 10 prints done of the best pictures you can find and take measurements from them. Heck I cast pictures to my TV and zoom to 1/8 to get a lot of my measurements right off the screen!
@@M5PerfHydros Oh ok...I thought perhaps there might be a known length of the horizontal stabs somewhere (I'm talking about a T-6 style hull), but great idea, I'll give a try. Again Thank you.
The slot will be much longer than you might initially think, and here's how I figure out where to start... I guess! Seriously, I guess at the starting point and slowly grind or file the slot forward or rearward as needed until the tube aligns perfectly with the strut and the coupler on the engine. Just go for it... You can do it!
"A hole drilled into the epoxy-in tube to solder the stuffing tube in place." Good idea. I however like smooth finishes so what I do is I cut a small "Keyway" gap in the epoxied in tube inside the hull much like a bicycle seat tube, and I use a zip tie as a clamp. This keyway and zip tie setup will clamp the stuffing tube in place, inside the hull. I never had a problem with the stuffing tubes walking forward. Much like a bicycle seat post clamp downsized.
I understand, but this requires extending the tube into the hull further, slicing it, and a zip tie? I'm unable to post pictures in replies, but I've changed the cover photo of the video just for you Kevin! Take a look and let me know what you think
That's a common question.... Seems when racers ask it's because they think there may be a great speed secret hiding in some sort of "secret sauce", but actually I don't think it matters much. Just always remember to remove the cable after each day of running, clean it and lube it generously with any decent sort of automotive type bearing grease and put it back in. If you wanna get fancy use a synthetic high temp grease. You'll pay more and feel better, but it won't really make a difference!
I guess so, but that part goes so easily I didn't think it was necessary to include it in the video. My bad! If you try it you'll see... Hold the tube with both hands and give it slight bending pressure and it'll move very easily with zero tendency to kink. Go just a little bit at a time.... Bend, install, check alignment, repeat. Simple!
I find doing it a hit and miss sort of thing. Some times i get it spot on, other times it kinks or other funky things do you ever worry about heating the tube up first to soften?
@@markwatts84 -- I've never needed to bend it so much that heating was necessary. Maybe you're fighting a motor mount angle issue? If you've got the motor positioned correctly the shaft should need very little bend, just a gentle arc is all.
great info for newbies any suggestions for fuel tank set up for 1/8 scale nitro I bought a 20oz du-bro tank but ive heard something about needing a small tank as well and bigger fuel lines?
Hmm, that sounds like a really good idea for a video! During my next boat build I'll shoot a little spot about fuel tanks. Meanwhile.... I am a fan of sump tanks. A sump tank is a small volume tank (2 - 4 oz) that is the last stop for fuel before the mixture needle. The theory is that it's easier, or more certain, to keep fuel focused around the pick-up tube in a smaller tank. Imagine having only 3 oz of fuel remaining, last lap of the race, with it sloshing all over the place within a 20 oz tank. The pick-up gets exposed to air in the last turn while you're leading and pffft your motor dies. Not good! My favorite set-up is a 14oz main tank with a 2oz sump. 16oz is all you'll need in a typical scale race, even if you need to run a couple penalty laps (hopefully not often!). I use stainless hypodermic tubing, .165" od, .135" id (.015" wall). It's very difficult to bend nicely, but doable with some practice and with the right dies. Watch for the video before too long!
Really do like your vids man, have been watching kevin todds vids as well....I think your replaceable stuffing tube technique could be a better idea, based on the fact that you are lined teflone wise all the way to the end of the shaft?. However, do you see any advantage of his technique ? btw, no criticism of either posts, more than one way to skin a cat.
Thanks David, I haven't send Kevin Todd's method so I'm not sure what to compare mine to. Can you provide a link to it? Even still, what's not to like when you have a perfectly aligned and quickly replaceable stuffing tube? You're right... There must be a dozen ways to accomplish that, but as long as we all get to the same place it's all good!
@@M5PerfHydros I found the Kevin Todd videos with a description of the permanent stuffing tube install. This video describes drilling a diagonal hole through the bottom of the boat. RC boat Hydroplane rigging part 2 stuffing tube done perfect ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iZNxg8fI_eE.html This video shows the permanent stuffing tube already epoxied into place. And the delicate bending action begins at 0:20. RC boat hydroplane rigging part 4 strutting my stuff ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ah6ggsLYCXw.html
The slot will be much longer than you might initially think, so do what I do... Guess! Seriously, I guess at the starting point and slowly grind or file the slot forward or rearward as needed until the tube aligns perfectly with the strut and the coupler on the engine. Just go for it... You can do it!
M5 Performance Hydroplanes Scott Meyers I'm one of your subscribers. I'm always watching your uploads. By the way I'm from Philippines, thank you so much sir.
Are these kits that you cut? I want to get into boats and not racing but don’t have a clue where to start. I am a full on plane builder so I have the skills, patience and tools.
Hi Michael, Yes I design/cut/build all my own stuff now, but I've built several kit boats and fiberglass hulls as well and this is where I'd suggest you start. So here's what you do; If you're just looking for plans so you can scratch build your own boat, Newton Marine has a huge selection here; www.newtonmarine.com/ The best place I know of to buy wood kits, and this is definitely what I would recommend based on your building experience, is MLBoatworks; mlboatworksrc.com/ But if you're into fiberglass, many good glass boats and cowlings are available from RC Boat Company; rcboatcompany.com/ Between these three you should be able to find almost anything you'd want. Please let me know if you have any questions along the way, I'd love to see how you do! Have you found me on Facebook? I share a lot of additional information there. Search for M5 Performance Hydroplanes and join the fun!
I was hoping you could tell me! No Terry, there isn't a magic number. Every hull is different and rides differently, so the strut must be adjusted in response to what the boat wants. What I can tell you is my typical starting point, which is between 1 1/16" to 1 3/16" deep (centerline of prop shaft to floor), and 1° - 1.5° positive angle (strut deeper at the rear). From there it's anyone's guess. Good luck!
So if you take a straight edge from the back side of the riden pad on sponson to the transom that would be appropriately the angle of the strut ?? Or even a good starting point
Hmm, possibly. To be honest, I've never checked the angle of the plane relative to the ride pads and strut centerline. I'll have to do that. Typically I set my strut to have between 1°- 1.5° positive angle (rear of strut lower than front of strut)
All of my boats are nitro powered, so I don't really know the proper setup for an electric boat. One of the best electric boat racers I know is Bill Brandt, owner of Rattlesnake RC, and he could probably help. You'll find him here; www.allrc1.com/
