RAIL BIKE - Version 10 - NEW Front Wheel Outrigger and Wheel Guide System - and it doesn't work :) 

at time 8:32 you were having an issue with the guide wheels. If you look carefully at the video, the front of the two wheel s is down, but the back one is not. Appears to be some binding in your pivot. When you "pushed the bike down the rails" a bit later, you'll see this corrects itself. BTW... love the videos and the progress in development of this. I also like the way this let's you navigate the turnouts (switch track) sections of the rail.

Forgot to share that I am using longboard wheels to give a wider flat surface so the front wheel does not pull or push either way. Also on my next version I am going to put my guides on a spring coil so it can bump out on rail that has been flattened out or weeds. Take care.

とても参考になります！

Nice! The rear mount is so much more stable than the front mount. 👍🏼👍🏼

Awesome progression and testing. Love following along. Grest video, thank you for sharing.... am thinking some kind of to and fro shock as part of an angle purchase from the seat stem to other rail wheels, creating a triangle for better lean control

Thanks for your experiences! I will try to copy your idea for railway bike travel in Europe)

There is another channel that i just stumbled on 'Cam Engineering', he just took his (electric) rail bike on an all day trip. May get inspiration from how he engineered his bike.

Very cool. Somewhere in an old (~35 year old) Canadian Geographic magazine there is an article about a couple that built something like this to travel on the rails.

I've been thinking about this thing. What if, instead of an outrigger, you created some sort of lock that prevented the fork from turning in the head tube. You could do a single brace from the handlebar back to the top tube. You'd still need the guide wheels on the front. If you can get going, the bike should stay upright. The back wheel should follow the front - and the front is locked to the rail (in theory). If the bike is moving, it should want to be upright, yeah? It's easy for me to say - I'm not out there suffering with it. Just thinking there's a balance between rider skill and mechanical crutch to be found.

The front mount of the outrigger would need also a two wheel guidance on the opposite rail; then it could work probably as a steering (in my case it worked, but I had used a more baroque construction with a jacked up frontwheel on a small foldable railcar ;-). As you showed clearly, however the momentum is horrible. As I remember after testing I had sore muscles - not in the legs, but in the arms)

Loved

Hello..... it's me again. Again, nice try, I see how you are thinking, but failure is all part of railbiking.... I'm appreciative of you documenting your designing process. keep trying. By version 20, you'll be getting close. I should talk... i have yet to get back to it, but it's coming down to me making my own guide wheels from scratch. No stock, off-the-shelf wheel is made to my spec's... I need machine tools. Your chances of getting fined, busted, are slim. I've even had rail maintenance employees say it was really cool what I was doing. Again, keep at it. I'm a fan of watching your progress, and regress. You're right, it never does end.... but the outrigger must be attached to the frame, up high, somewhere, the head or seat tube. I've been up to 25 mph with my version I called, "The Flier." It was fast, but dangerous. It took me 2 seasons to become pain free again, but what price the learning curve? I was hired by the maker of that double flanged guide wheel to build a guide around it that worked. I had to modify it, much to the chagrin of the guy who sells it.... but it worked much better. I even did a 80 mile ride with it. Needless to say, the guy didn't go for my guide because of this mod... his ego got bruised, I called his baby ugly. Oh well... I ended up with a half decent, reasonably successful railbike that I used for 10+ years. In spite of the mod, It still couldn't deal with the heavy rail imperfections in the industrial area where I experimented, or, any debris piled against the outside of the rail. I'd get unceremoniously dumped, rerailed. Learning how to fall became a useful skill. My last prototype could negotiate crossings, easily, riding no hands. That was a huge victory..... but I had access to machine tools, and large chunks of UHMW plastic then. It was also quite noisy, and being a musician, I need quiet operation. Rock on...

maybe the fork should be fixed so it can’t steer like straight ahead just a thought

How can I get one of those

You need to triangulate things. Too much “bobbing”. You are relying too much on the strength of the joints. Think bracing. Front to out rigger,… fork down to outrigger". More/longer front. If you watch the video,… you can see the pulsing

triangles are cool. the lateral force is killing you.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PhR6HINkiQQ.html Hi speeds need a weight. I am on my third version myself with some interesting differences as mine is designed for camping with water storage as part of my left rail weight. Thought you would enjoy this youtube going at a good clip. Cannot wait for spring. Thanks for the series.

“I was wrong, very rare” he says on version …..10.

Told you it wouldn't work.