I used to have one of these about 15 years ago. Mine was made of pipe, and was much like a go cart with fixed wheels ( no Steering) and we used go cart wheels, with slicks, and on the inside side of the wheel we bolted plow discs,through the 4 holes in the wheel halves, and it worked great. Nice and smooth and quiet, we were threatened with prison if we did it again, so we disassembled it. Mine ran a 3 horse Briggs, and it went about 25-30 mph. I used an oil filter wrench around the clutch as a band brake, and had a gas pedal like a go cart. It was much fun. The problem was that we were on a live rail, no abandoned rails around here, but it was very rusty so it was never used, but they were very stern about trespassing on it just the same .
That 1-in shaft is 40 or $50 at a garage door parts store.. residential torsion shafts are hollow, but commercial are solid with a keyway.. and if you get one that's under 7 ft, they might throw it at you for free because it's not really usable since typically 95% of garage doors are at least 7 ft wide and thus require about 7 and 1/2 ft shaft length
Very well made with lots of thought going in before things got screwed down. Brilliant build, cool and I think the wheels and that one extended axle you showed is genius! Have lots of joyful railcarting for 2024! ❤🌻
This is super duper amazing and all I can think is, how many amazing memories you and your daughter are going to have riding around on that! So cool 😎 👍🏼
@@ryanrandomness Believe me, she will ALWAYS remember riding this with you. I always told my dad that "I will love you forever daddy". And I do. Sure do miss him.
Thanks Mike I think a lot of us would like more detail on the wheel construction. Maybe make a wheel and film it. So have someone who knows what to film as you have your hands free and can talk us through it. Do a practice run first before you use the expensive polyurethane products. Really like this idea and would like to see how you went about getting the camber on the ‘flat’ of the wheel. That’s the secret of your success. Spike in Sydney Aus.
At 12:40 : A live axle is required. That is the what makes real train 'steer'. The way it works is that both wheels on the axle turn at the same rate. The cone shape of the wheels cause the wheel set to 'steer' (known a 'hunting') towards a balanced condition. If the tracks are straight ahead, then both wheels must advance the same distance per turn. If the wheel set has slid to one side, the wheel that is riding the rail close to the flange is slightly larger in diameter at the point it is contacting the rail, and the other wheel is riding on the rail a it's smaller diameter, owing to the taper, or 'cone shape' of the wheels. This has the effect of causing the 'larger' diameter wheel (the one that is riding on the rail close to it's flange) to push slightly in the forward direction, and the other wheel that is riding the rail on it's smaller diameter part to 'drag' slightly in the rearward direction. This causes the wheel set to steer towards an equilibrium condition. This is what keeps trains on the track. The flanges are insurance. Good job building those wheels! Love your video. I want a speeder!
If I remember right from my past research, the taper angle is 5 degrees. Great explanation of how train wheels steer around curves and that the flange is for insurance only to keep it from derailing. The flange should rarely touch the rail (you can always add 1 more degree of angle :)
I was thinking of doing one of these using an old moped from the junkyard. I was thinking of using pneumatic wheels for ride comfort, but having skateboard wheels mounted horizontally as guide wheels to keep the cart on the track, rollercoaster style.
I always wanted to ride the rails with something simple and homemade like this since I was young and read my first huck finn story! wouldn’t mind the hand crank type either, actually! But alas: next life for me! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 Have more adventures with your kids!
For the motor vibration, perhaps try rubber door stops for the motor to sit on. Or a dense neoprene pad under it, like one of those gardening knee pads or a sleeping pad for tent camping. Maybe valve springs (?) out of a car engine, cut to height needed, captured with the motor mount bolts though them. 🙂👍
Be cool , add swivel to the seats and add a tav2 gear box with reverse . Get away from picking the cart up from turning it around. Might be cool 😎. Thanks for sharing this.
If you leave a small amount of slack in the chain that drum clutch will last longer. Also take it apart and clean it every now and then. You can typically replace the bearings in them too instead of just buying a new clutch. We use them kart racing a lot.
Yes, the wheels should be slightly conical up towards the flange. The rails will then run up the cone as far as they can, and they both find the same position on the wheels. As the rails go in and out of perfect gauge, they stay in the same position on each wheel. So normally there is no banging on the flanges.
@@ryanrandomness The diameter of the wheels may also factor into the angle of the wheel surface. Smaller wheel may need steeper angle. Just a rando thought. :)
Pretty awesome! I'm in Arizona and I work with a youth group. I've been looking for a project we can work on together, and this is going to be it. We're going to build a few of these, pack them up, and go camp out away from everyone. They'll remember this their whole lives. I was going to ask you for links to places that sell parts, but it looks like you've already responded to others with the same question. Thanks!
The steel axles with the keyway may have been part of a metalworking lathe, used to drive the saddle along the bed. They wear and need replacing sometimes.
you guys are so lucky to be able to access abandoned tracks. i am in new zealand and no way we would be allowed anywhere near abandoned tracks. not that there are many here. most disused lines get ripped up
After watching a couple of your other videos, I am glad I found this one! Really nice to see your explanation here. The cutting board wheel was my favorite part 😂
Yes, conical wheels help the train, or cart in this case, to stay centered on the track. However, an even more vital function that the cone-shaped wheels provide is allowing the inside wheel to travel a bit slower than the outside wheel when traveling on a curved section of track. The centripetal force on a train when making a turn will force its wheels towards the outer rail. Hence, the location of where the rail contacts the wheel will be closer to the flange, and the location of contact of rail to wheel on the inner wheel will be farther away from the flange. Thus, this will compensate for the difference in distance traveled in a turn between the outer, and the inner wheels. The outer wheel which is closer to the flange is making contact at a point that has a larger circumference, and the point of contact for the inner wheel is at a point with a smaller circumference. Therefore, the distance traveled by the outer wheel for every complete rotation of the axle will be greater than the distance traveled by the inner wheel. Basically, it functions like a differential, but without a system of gears that allows half of the axle to rotate at a different rate than the other half of the axle. With trains, the axle rotates at the same rate from one side all the way to the other side, and it is the difference in the circumference of the wheels at the point of contact that allows for a difference in distance traveled.
I made my wheels with a 6.75-degree angle/slope for a lot of curved tracks. It will wear eventually to a lesser degree angle over time. I believe that 3 degrees is optimal.
Aluminum axles would save you a lot of weight. For brakes, glue leather to aluminum. It's very durable and even more replaceable. Leather suede likes to brake on aluminum. Four brake springs and a trip handle to actuate drag in a snap would work. Seat bottoms could be high density foam with leather stapled over them.
That last wheel there looks like a scaffolding wheel. Not surprised it failed quickly, they are built more for withstanding weight rather than spinning.
Thanks for a very good video and good design. I have some questions: Why such relatively small wheels? Is it because of cost? How do you protect the drive chain and teeth from debris, sand and grit? What about rocks or large debris between the rails? How to avoid them? Any guess as to miles/gallon of gas? Comment: I would have varnished or painted all wood surfaces to protect from wear and weather, and used Rustoleum on the axles to protect from rust. More videos please, keep them coming.
Nice but I think the center area should be much higher, there's always weeds growing up from the middle of the tracks . Or make the wheels much bigger around .
very cool. Yes the wheels are not flat, there is a small angle/taper to them and the track is not flat either, it has a peak in the center and tapered down on both sides. since both wheels have the same angled/tapered surface, the peak on the track will now make the wheels track on the same spot on the tapered surface.
Clean the chain & put in pryfine wax and bring to a boil for a few minutes until the wax get inside the rollers then take the chain out let congeal the put back on no more oiling no more mess
Olá estou aqui vendo tua invenção amigo queria poder fazer um igual aqui temos as linhas abandonadas eu ia usufruir com certeza .. parabéns sucesso abraços 👍
Very cool idea, aways wanted to build a cart. I always wondered where I could get wheels however. I love you idea of pouring rubber over a rim. Thus you can clamp the rim hole centered in your lathe chuck using an actual axle piece, and then turn round without runout, even if the pour was slightly off center. Those are arbor bearings correct? Is there a grease Zerk in each? I like the idea of sitting up higher however. I also like the idea of a box with tip back soft cushion seats with back, along with storage in the box to fit a cooler for sandwiches & milk😉. For braking I was thinking of strong Neodymium bar magnets on each side just back slightly from center of cart. One could pull a metal lever and both magnets would reach out just close enough to inside rail edge and reach end-stops thus providing just enough drag. The system would have to be strong “likely welded”and work in perfect symmetry together moving in and out with individual magnet distance to rail adjustments. I would also mount the motor on a metal plate on-top of urethane rubber motor mount bushings. Great project. I solute your design simplicity, and clever wheel production. Your so lucky to have beautiful abandoned railways near you. Very cool! ✌️😎👍
I saw something about people building the bikes to run on the rails when I was a kid, I cant remember if it was national geographic magazine what, but I always wanted to do something like that too. I don't live somewhere that has any track I could do it on (at least not legally or without trains running on it) and do not really have the time or space to build anything like that. It is really cool to see someone actually do it though. I always thought about modifying an old motorcycle or dirt bike to do it though, just for better sitting position and view height.
@ericfilomeno3150 probably, just smaller wheels. There's a video somewhere on youtube where a guy did a diy lathe mounted to a table and it had a huge swing.
Do you have any idea what your gear ratio is? I have a similar 10t clutch and I was going to put a 40t on the axle … I heard not to go any smaller then the 40t but looking at yours it seems to be quite small too! Thanks, cool project
It is a great idea to make urethane wheels. They must run smooth and quiet. It occurs to me that a 2x3 ladder frame with plywood might be quite resonant, so if you had hard or roough wheels, it might get pretty loud. Is that an issue? It's hard to tell from videos how loud these railcarts really are.
Nice setup. Hook it up with a set of wheels. Need them within a couple months if it's doable for you. Let me know the total $$$ When it's all said and done
This is amazing! I also live in San Diego and love walking the train tracks near the trestle. I'd love to build one of these. In the video you mention you sourced the shafts from some company in Ohio..... Can you share the name of the company? I'm trying to find the best deal. Thank you!
I had to check my email. They are actually in Lincoln Nebraska. I think I said $20 or $30 in the video but it looks like it's $47 each. I remember looking around and this was by far the cheapest 72" keyed shaft I could find. It shipped fast and worked great so far. www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Shafting/Keyed-Shafting/1-x-72-Keyed-Shafting-1-2982-100-6.axd
Original clutch I was using is the first link. I recently switched to a torque converter. I put both links below FDJ Minibike Go Kart Clutch 3/4"... www.amazon.com/dp/B01D4L6OSI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share MOOSUN GO-KART TORQUE CONVERTER... www.amazon.com/dp/B07T1KRS4V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I can’t seem to find a keyed 6 foot or 56 1/2 inch axle. In the video you mentioned a place of San Diego and you said you would list it in comments, but I can’t find it anywhere. Could you please let me know where you got those axles? Thanks so much.
Opa, tudo bem meu amigo?! Aí procura um tradutor pra vc me entender 😅, então como faço pra conseguir essas rodas? Gostei muito do seu projeto, já fiz um mais foi com roda de bicicleta a pedal mais sem muito progresso, mais se vc poder me enformar fico muito agradecido!
@@ryanrandomness I bet it does, it's working double time. Used to run into this on dirt bikes. the chain is not meshing with the top gear, it's either the wrong gear for the chain or the wrong chain for the gear. Should be able to find a matching chain and sprocket kit with your clutch
Couple reasons. The 6 inch wheels were quite a bit cheaper at the time. I think it was $20 each rather than $50 each. Also I was planning on using several inches of polyurethane. It didn't work out that way. My lathe can only fit 12" so that was also a worry as well. I was also trying to make it as light as possible. Really when you think about it a 2" bigger rim would only raise the axle 1"? Anyway I've never had any major clearance issues with my current setup.
@@rileystumm3549 I had no idea what I was doing when I first attempted it. I think I started with 1 gallon. When I went to pour I didn't realize it only had something like a 3 min work time. I ended up wasting like half. I ordered another gallon and screwed up again. I also cut off a ton of polyurethane. If you had a better method you could probably get away with 1 gallon but it will most likely take 2. They also have 30% coupons. If you email them and tell them you missed the coupon they will email you one.
